Wow, I'm catching a lot of replies, and though everyone's being super helpful in an evidentially patient kinda way, I still must decline. Some months back, I too was using GH 3 part with all the bells and whistles, but when certain bottles began to grow mold in them, I switched to dry nutes, in particular, Jack's 321. I also joined RIU and learned how to get more refined 321, but then my studies lead me to discontinue using Jack's, or Peter's and I now make 100% my own blend. That said, I take Iron DTPA, Copper EDTA, Zinc EDTA, Manganese EDTA, Boric Acid and Sodium Molybdate and mixed everything to my own targeted blend micronutrient. I then mix the following components into a concentrate at 1 gram of salt to 10 ml of RO;
Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt)
Monopotassium Phosphate
Potassium Silicate
Potassium Sulfate
Magnesium Nitrate
Calcium Nitrate
and I can draw from each of the above concentrate solutions of the same strength to make weekly reservoirs that each have a very intentionally tailored feed schedule that is neither overbearing or deficient. I've already chased out most visible signs of nutrient deficiency and am slowly perfecting the feed because I can produce whatever NPK I want to. The only constant about my feed is the micro blend that is as follows;
Fe = 2ppm
Mn = 1ppm
Zn = 0.3ppm
B = 0.3ppm
Cu = 0.2ppm
Mo = 0.05ppm
To change that I would have to mix a different blend of micros, but so far I see no reason to use a different micro blend, or at least to the extent that I'd discard this mix. I may decide to make minor adjustments the next time I whip up a concentrate micro mix, but that'll be many months away.
When I said 10-20 years of nutes, that was a wide estimation. Like, if these only lasted me 7 years, I would be guilty of the crime. In those branded nutes most of us have bought in our years was less than 10% solid weight which means we bought 90% water. This way, I haven't bought anymore water and when my concentrate solutions empty, I merely make up another. I'm getting a new camera today and have to mix up 2 bottles of concentrates, so maybe I'll shoot a video, but these methods I am documenting in a thread listed in my signature.
What I was seeking here, but now believe I can't find here is insights on how to best dial in my feed numbers to produce the best brix possible from synthetic nutes. I believe such nute ratios will be truly ideal feed as a whole and is the feed regimen I am seeking apart from desiring higher brix. I don't believe I can find my answers here because last night when reading DOc's site, it said that the super soil has 18 times more calcium than N or K, but regardless, my feed will never have 18 times calcium to anything else. It then hit me that soil growers rely on time release nutrients that are fully dependent on microbes to process and release in ions to the roots whereas my synthetic nutes are available now. I think ultimately, my best path will be to invest in a sap PH tester and try to pursue equilibrium with this chart I found on another forum, but it will take a few more days of reading and Googlizing terms and phrases. I may even start a new thread, but was hoping one already exists and some of you knew what it was called.
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Now I have a direction to continue my search. Awesome group here!! Thanks again!! 
Thanks for your help!! 
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