Creating Female Seeds Using Colloidal Silver - With High Brix

Tap water? That could be a contributor as well. I'm sure some might disagree, but I don't want anything in my water except the 60ppm of silver. if you don't have an RO filter, splurge on a gallon of distilled water. Less than buck last time I checked and doesn't go bad, so you can use it for years if you only use it for this.

Well the guide I read they used 30 ppm and suggested to use tap water so I didn't think that would matter.

Though that might answer my question about if anyone else used soap as a surfactant for it.
 
Well, I haven't read any guides, but I have interacted with at least a few guys who have walked the same path and there are a few particulars that seem to make a difference. 1. Use the same kind of CS as in the first few pages of this thread diluted to 50-60 ppm. 2. Use RO or distilled water. 3. It helps to use clones from a mature (6-8 weeks) plant as they tend to reverse a little more quickly than a young seedling.

I haven't used STS myself, but it's what most professional breeders use. I'm simply ignorant in its application parameters and the CS I made continues to work perfectly, so I'm not currently inclined to try it.

I've never used soap in my fem seed making.
 
Well, I haven't read any guides, but I have interacted with at least a few guys who have walked the same path and there are a few particulars that seem to make a difference. 1. Use the same kind of CS as in the first few pages of this thread diluted to 50-60 ppm. 2. Use RO or distilled water. 3. It helps to use clones from a mature (6-8 weeks) plant as they tend to reverse a little more quickly than a young seedling.

I haven't used STS myself, but it's what most professional breeders use. I'm simply ignorant in its application parameters and the CS I made continues to work perfectly, so I'm not currently inclined to try it.

I've never used soap in my fem seed making.

Tap water caught my attention too. Soap is new to me as well, but I guess that's one reason I'm going through all this.. every once in a while it's a good idea to re-hash old tek's. I'm pretty sure what I've been doing isn't really anything new. Likely just a lack of it on the internet or it's just plain hard to find. What little info out there has evolved into a basic idea with several different ways to do it. Part of it is because everyone has different needs or circumstances. Part of it is interpretation. Part of it is because of people like me lol. Can't leave well enough alone :)

At this point the biggest difference I see between CS and STS is the price. $23.00 USD Lifetime supply of STS.

So I treated with the 55 ppm CS. One healthy Gob branch, a really old ratty Permafrost mother branch, and the whole Gob pheno 2 mother all about a week from flip. At lights on I'll hit the flower room. There's a Black Domina and an American Pie in there just a few days post flip.
This way we have clones, fem and regular seed produced plants. The mothers are pretty ugly lol, but I think I can squeak them through.
 
Tap water caught my attention too. Soap is new to me as well, but I guess that's one reason I'm going through all this.. every once in a while it's a good idea to re-hash old tek's. I'm pretty sure what I've been doing isn't really anything new. Likely just a lack of it on the internet or it's just plain hard to find. What little info out there has evolved into a basic idea with several different ways to do it. Part of it is because everyone has different needs or circumstances. Part of it is interpretation. Part of it is because of people like me lol. Can't leave well enough alone :)

At this point the biggest difference I see between CS and STS is the price. $23.00 USD Lifetime supply of STS.

So I treated with the 55 ppm CS. One healthy Gob branch, a really old ratty Permafrost mother branch, and the whole Gob pheno 2 mother all about a week from flip. At lights on I'll hit the flower room. There's a Black Domina and an American Pie in there just a few days post flip.
This way we have clones, fem and regular seed produced plants. The mothers are pretty ugly lol, but I think I can squeak them through.

Any way you could put a link up to your source of STS? I searched for it but only found some overpriced stuff.

I was using the soap as a surfacant because that's what I do with all my foliar feeds, but maybe it didn't help things in this case. Next time I try this I will just use distilled water and nothing else.

Of course there's still the possibility the plant is just stunted and may still reverse. I'm gonna save my money for now and just wait and see.
 
Any way you could put a link up to your source of STS? I searched for it but only found some overpriced stuff.

I was using the soap as a surfacant because that's what I do with all my foliar feeds, but maybe it didn't help things in this case. Next time I try this I will just use distilled water and nothing else.

Of course there's still the possibility the plant is just stunted and may still reverse. I'm gonna save my money for now and just wait and see.

I'll PM you the links but it was all from the South American Warrior Lady. Looks like the silver nitrate is double the price since I bought it, but I found another source for the sodium thiosulfate that is half what I paid. The total is now closer to $35 USD including shipping without shopping further. I forgot to add shipping to my figure of $23 so it's within a few dollars.
Sorry about that :oops:
 
I'll PM you the links but it was all from the South American Warrior Lady. Looks like the silver nitrate is double the price since I bought it, but I found another source for the sodium thiosulfate that is half what I paid. The total is now closer to $35 USD including shipping without shopping further. I forgot to add shipping to my figure of $23 so it's within a few dollars.
Sorry about that :oops:

Oh I was wondering if I had to buy the ingredients separate. It's Silver Nitrate + Sodium Thiosulfate?
 
Oh I was wondering if I had to buy the ingredients separate. It's Silver Nitrate + Sodium Thiosulfate?
And not from the same source. I have heard this is a good way to get put on a watch list.

As for some of other things you pollen chuckers have been talking about. I use the same CS most around here use. I purchased the at least 50ppm bottle they sell and it tested at 120ppm. I cut it in half with distilled water and it works fine.

As for the two weeks of spraying, I do the same with both single branches and whole plant with good results. Although there was recently that I changed my mind after just three days of spraying a single branch of an autoflower. I had to go out of town so could not be there to spray and that branch still reversed. I let it mature until the pollen was falling on it's on and it was very viable. So the jury is still out for me on how long to spray. I have only reversed autoflowers and have no experience with reversing photos.

I have two strains I want to reverse the whole plant with a solo cup grow. Perhaps I will risk spraying one for just three days to see if reverses. Unfortunately I only have one small tent for my Love Shack so it might take a while. As many have said time might be the real reason for the two weeks of spraying. No one wants to waste time growing out a girl just to have it not reverse.
 
And not from the same source. I have heard this is a good way to get put on a watch list.

As for some of other things you pollen chuckers have been talking about. I use the same CS most around here use. I purchased the at least 50ppm bottle they sell and it tested at 120ppm. I cut it in half with distilled water and it works fine.

As for the two weeks of spraying, I do the same with both single branches and whole plant with good results. Although there was recently that I changed my mind after just three days of spraying a single branch of an autoflower. I had to go out of town so could not be there to spray and that branch still reversed. I let it mature until the pollen was falling on it's on and it was very viable. So the jury is still out for me on how long to spray. I have only reversed autoflowers and have no experience with reversing photos.

I have two strains I want to reverse the whole plant with a solo cup grow. Perhaps I will risk spraying one for just three days to see if reverses. Unfortunately I only have one small tent for my Love Shack so it might take a while. As many have said time might be the real reason for the two weeks of spraying. No one wants to waste time growing out a girl just to have it not reverse.

Totally agree :passitleft: I just happen to be fortunate enough at the moment to experiment. A few months and I may be back to a couple of 3x3's myself ugh. I feel for the patients who are left with even less than that though. Brings back ugly memories.

Had a chuckle earlier.. my comment about re-hashing teks.

The power of observation

but here I sit not remembering what specific tek is on page one of this thread without going there. 🤦

and TF's soap comment lead to some interesting reading regarding sodium thiosulfate. I've been so fixated on the silver particles that I've neglected to follow up on 'why this'. I figured it worked as a carrier or stimulant because it's something needed in tissue culture. Did a little reading on it a while back in regards to that, but it's also applied to soils and foliar material. At first I thought it might explain the pre-flip timing difference, but now I'm not so sure :hmmm: Defintely more reading in the future.

Hope all you pollen chuckers :) are having a good one!
 
Totally agree :passitleft: I just happen to be fortunate enough at the moment to experiment. A few months and I may be back to a couple of 3x3's myself ugh. I feel for the patients who are left with even less than that though. Brings back ugly memories.

Had a chuckle earlier.. my comment about re-hashing teks.

The power of observation

but here I sit not remembering what specific tek is on page one of this thread without going there. 🤦

and TF's soap comment lead to some interesting reading regarding sodium thiosulfate. I've been so fixated on the silver particles that I've neglected to follow up on 'why this'. I figured it worked as a carrier or stimulant because it's something needed in tissue culture. Did a little reading on it a while back in regards to that, but it's also applied to soils and foliar material. At first I thought it might explain the pre-flip timing difference, but now I'm not so sure :hmmm: Defintely more reading in the future.

Hope all you pollen chuckers :) are having a good one!

Yeah, I know I would be a lot more upset about this one not reversing if I didn't have 4 girls ready to flower already. Still not THAT happy about the prospect of having to throw the bud away, but oh well. I still wonder how the CS will effect it for use in edibles.

Not sure what you mean by the soap, like why did I use it?
 
Yeah, I know I would be a lot more upset about this one not reversing if I didn't have 4 girls ready to flower already. Still not THAT happy about the prospect of having to throw the bud away, but oh well. I still wonder how the CS will effect it for use in edibles.

Not sure what you mean by the soap, like why did I use it?

Nope. I understood why. Just found the concept in general interesting in it's application here and started doing a little research on how exactly the silver particles penetrate the plant tissue. Could they be held on to the tissue by say a soap or oil? and especially, would it improve anything? Then I got back to the Thiosulfate question lol.

Now I'm digging into the question of what difference is there, if any, between the particles in CS vs Silver Nitrate while I should be checking the girls :rofl: It never ends, but it's so damned fascinating.
 
Nope. I understood why. Just found the concept in general interesting in it's application here and started doing a little research on how exactly the silver particles penetrate the plant tissue. Could they be held on to the tissue by say a soap or oil? and especially, would it improve anything? Then I got back to the Thiosulfate question lol.

Now I'm digging into the question of what difference is there, if any, between the particles in CS vs Silver Nitrate while I should be checking the girls :rofl: It never ends, but it's so damned fascinating.

Ohhh, yeah, I got ya. Yeah I didn't really check to see if anyone else was using it, but to me it seemed like it would be helpful if anything. Now I'm just kind of orienting more towards replicating what other successful attempts with it have been. But I think nailing down all the variables that differ with my grow is a little problematic because I could think of a few things that might effect it.

1. The soap
2. Tap water
3. The way I sexed my donor plant for these clones: I flipped the donor plant to 12/12 for 3 days until I saw pistils, then re-vegged for about a week or two before taking clones. However, after that, the plants that grew from the clones never stopped producing pre-flowers.

I've mentioned it before, but I think the difference number 3 may have caused is that the plant is probably more charged with flowering hormones than had it never been flipped to 12/12 at all to be sexed. I'd need to know more about the states in which people had sprayed and flipped before to be able to draw a conclusion, but I think that's more likely the culprit than Number 1 or 2.

That gives me some cause for concern because I wonder then, if the plants I have vegetating right now are continuing to pump out pre-flowers, suggesting they're brimming with flowering hormones, then will CS be able to effectively block the hormones in these clones ever again? I guess what I'm getting at, is do you have to get to them YOUNG before they're mature?

Anyway, long story short, I don't know if I should try to do it again on these plants or if I should start some from seed to try it on. It would be unfortunate if the plant being too mature would prevent reversal, because this is the only specimen of Blackberry Kush I can get my hands on.
 
Nope. I understood why. Just found the concept in general interesting in it's application here and started doing a little research on how exactly the silver particles penetrate the plant tissue. Could they be held on to the tissue by say a soap or oil? and especially, would it improve anything? Then I got back to the Thiosulfate question lol.

Now I'm digging into the question of what difference is there, if any, between the particles in CS vs Silver Nitrate while I should be checking the girls :rofl: It never ends, but it's so damned fascinating.
I know where you're coming from gypsy. If we'd have had cannabis courses back in high school I may have been a straight A student.:allgood:
 
Any way you could put a link up to your source of STS? I searched for it but only found some overpriced stuff.

I was using the soap as a surfacant because that's what I do with all my foliar feeds, but maybe it didn't help things in this case. Next time I try this I will just use distilled water and nothing else.

Of course there's still the possibility the plant is just stunted and may still reverse. I'm gonna save my money for now and just wait and see.

Nismo made the STS with great success...

:)
 
Ohhh, yeah, I got ya. Yeah I didn't really check to see if anyone else was using it, but to me it seemed like it would be helpful if anything. Now I'm just kind of orienting more towards replicating what other successful attempts with it have been. But I think nailing down all the variables that differ with my grow is a little problematic because I could think of a few things that might effect it.

1. The soap
2. Tap water
3. The way I sexed my donor plant for these clones: I flipped the donor plant to 12/12 for 3 days until I saw pistils, then re-vegged for about a week or two before taking clones. However, after that, the plants that grew from the clones never stopped producing pre-flowers.

I've mentioned it before, but I think the difference number 3 may have caused is that the plant is probably more charged with flowering hormones than had it never been flipped to 12/12 at all to be sexed. I'd need to know more about the states in which people had sprayed and flipped before to be able to draw a conclusion, but I think that's more likely the culprit than Number 1 or 2.

That gives me some cause for concern because I wonder then, if the plants I have vegetating right now are continuing to pump out pre-flowers, suggesting they're brimming with flowering hormones, then will CS be able to effectively block the hormones in these clones ever again? I guess what I'm getting at, is do you have to get to them YOUNG before they're mature?

Anyway, long story short, I don't know if I should try to do it again on these plants or if I should start some from seed to try it on. It would be unfortunate if the plant being too mature would prevent reversal, because this is the only specimen of Blackberry Kush I can get my hands on.

Well, I always use a clone from a plant that has vegged for at least 6-8 weeks, has started alternating nodes and is pushing pistils, and typically one that was from an already known sex (i.e. 3rd generation clone). These clones always go right into alternating nodes and preflowers once rooted and I've had no issue reversing them. I just hit them with CS for a couple days before I change the light schedule and then continue for another 2 weeks or so after that.
 
The experiments here have all been done on clones like Gov. The Domina is the first seed grown for the experiment. Beyond that I've used the regular two week treatments for everything else. Photo's, auto's, seedlings, and clones. They all seem to do about the same.
 
Back
Top Bottom