Everything looking lush Bob .
Cottage 420's Organic Perpetual Indoor Garden
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
very nice bb hey i just had a question ive been using my first batch of soil still on some of my plants its been reamended like 5 or 6 times roughly and well ive been vegging this girl for over 4 months and in the last like 2 r 3 weeks she all of a sudden started getting really yellow and now lookslike she is eating herself up idk why she is burning the leaves but i give her a tea from buildasoil craft blend and she will starten to darken up alil bit for like a week or 2 but then back to yellowing i also gave her a kelp meal tea to and same thing goes good for about a week starting to look like she will come back and then bam again starts going yellow im doing a flux grow with this girl and idk i just feel like the soil is worn out or something idk what to do i really dont wana throw her away since ive been training her for over 4 months i just dont want that to be wasted time but any ideas what i could do should i just throw her into flower so i get sumthn for a yield and just move on or is there sumthn i can do any and all help would greatly be appreciated thanx here she is she is early vixen from crop king seeds
JoetheChro
Well-Known Member
No those temps are perfect... I'm right around those temps here. I actually like to get down into the high 50s at night but not sure why... With in-laws visiting my flower room has been buttoned up a little tighter than normal so the temps have been about the same as yours.. maybe a little warmer lights on but not by much.
Here's my canopy shots yesterday, btm of lights @ 6' 3" - I can stand in there and not have to bend over:
You can see my temp range from 2 nights ago... was a little warmer due to heat turned up for the in-laws. I opened a window after taking these pics... maybe get a little color to the flowers today. Last night was 66 and 82.
With these Vero COBs the plants are stretching for 2-3 weeks even after setting buds they keep stretching. ----------------------VVV
Yesterday - - can see the ties I have pulling the tops away from lamps::
Here's a canopy shot from last Friday:
Here's from a week ago - the plants on the left there are above the lamps today same as first pic ^^^ that's like 2' of stretch in 1 week and burnt tips:
Mini update:
Dolato in VEG:
This was last week:
This is yesterday.... she's filling out and getting bushy - Likely the next plant in flower:
Dolato VEG close up of top:
DT #5 - lower down bud candy:
DT #6 - cola pic... she's about 28ish days from flip here:
DT #7 - 20ish days in flower:
Labyrinth #1 - Clone .. also 20ish days in flower
DT #4 - getting closer.. waiting for Ms. Fatty Buds to finish doin her thing. The orange tint is those 1750K Vero COBs... they make it look like Mars. Hopefully the flowers are out of this word too!
DT #4 - stackin it to the man... this was 58 days in flower.
Those DT's dont look all that fat but @ 7' tall, gonna have another epic haul. I'll let them go as long as my girls in VEG can hang in there waiting. I can replace 1 DT with 2 hybrid plants.
In VEG:
3 Chemdawgs in VEG - they are big 24" (1 had spider mites and treated)
4 DTs in VEG 2 are 22" the other 2 are about 12" and some more clones just into soil
1 Dolato @ 20"
Several seedlings (3 - Buffalato starting just like the Dolato - weird spiraling on 1st set of leaves)
More clones of DT and Chem just starting. The Chem clones always take a while to get going... always planning way ahead with them.
Have you found a difference in bud quality between taller plants and shorter ones?
I can't explain it but is it a bit like having a piece of dough and rolling it into a ball. It should weigh the same as when you started regardless of shape. Then it is stretched, losing its form but still maintaining the same mass.
Sorry for the example, I couldn't think of anything else
Are bigger plants healthier than shorter ones? It seems natural but does the growth auxin affect the amount of THC?
I'm not knocking what you do, I send this message with a flourish of my hand and bow to your gardening skills
4Dutchess
Well-Known Member
Im guessing your ceiling is 8' so thats pushing your limit. Thats means Ive got plenty of room. Maybe.
Id say the biggest difference between big and small plants is small is easier to take care of. Id say thats it?
Id say the biggest difference between big and small plants is small is easier to take care of. Id say thats it?
- Thread starter
- #1,365
This plant the only one with issues?? I see you're "mainlining" or whatever that is... not an expert on that method, however annuals won't keep leaves for-ever. They tend to fall off and the plant will grow new ones as long at the light schedule is still VEG cycle.
What tends to get depleted first in this soil is Ca.... calcium. I don't usually recommend this but sometimes it helps with this soil that's been used a bunch. Try 1 tbs of Epsom salt in 1/2 gal of water and water in. Should only use Epsom Salt once .... can over do it and make things worse.
That and scratch in top of soil 1 cup EWC and 1/2 cup of kelp meal if you can get access to the soil...I usually do this at flip to flower but I'm only in that soil for 60-70 days then chop and re-amend again.
- Thread starter
- #1,366
Have you found a difference in bud quality between taller plants and shorter ones?
I can't explain it but is it a bit like having a piece of dough and rolling it into a ball. It should weigh the same as when you started regardless of shape. Then it is stretched, losing its form but still maintaining the same mass.
Sorry for the example, I couldn't think of anything else
Are bigger plants healthier than shorter ones? It seems natural but does the growth auxin affect the amount of THC?
I'm not knocking what you do, I send this message with a flourish of my hand and bow to your gardening skills
4D said:
I think Auxins are created in the upper portions of the plants tips when they are actively growing, promoting cell elongation. Then they are moved along in the plant to the base where they help the plant grow roots... Auxins are what we like to use for clones to help promote root growth. That's what those "rooting hormones" are made with. I use straight water in my cloner and spray the clones leaves with a mild kelp tea.... usually works.
No effect on health that I see... I grow somewhat shorter plants .... with these new lamps they are all stretching more and growing larger. So other than yield which is up, that's the only difference that I've noticed.
No difference in quality of flower... really the only change in my routine has been switching to all VERO29 COBs and I used more of our home made compost as the humus portion in our soil mix. We top dressed with our compost + peat moss in our outdoor flower gardens this spring and we had HUGE flowers this summer.
I just used up the last of the soil I was using in the last 4-5 rounds. I always have a new mix waiting in the wings. So I took a sample of that soil I had in totes and sent off a sample to my state County Extension Service. I just got my report back via e-mail. I put the sample in the mail last Friday and had the report in my e-mail yesterday.. so took about 4 business days to get my report back.
So here's my soil report.. it's not as comprehensive as the Va Tech reports are, but good enough.
Suggestion for me is to add some lime... meh. Ca is high enough but I'll sprinkle a little in.. they want to raise my soil PH but I prefer it to be a little acidic. This actually helps in containers and once there's a plant in there with a lot of roots, that soil PH will be regulated by the soil micro-organisms and the plants root exudates.
Also there's a suggestion to add .5 lbs of UREA per 100 sq ft of garden space... ok so calculating 100 sq ft of soil that is 8" deep... that's 560 THOUSAND gallons of soil. I have about 60 gallons of soil so.... a teaspoon of UREA.... not going to worry about it. Plus UREA is whats in .... urine.. prolly not going to add any to my soil. Just sayin.
When I plant a new plant in its final container, I always put a cup of EWC and a few tbs of amendments (BAS mix) and mycos. So any suggestion is covered with that and them some.
So basically they have to make some suggestions; to me this report is perfect or close enough. This report is VERY close to my previous report, its actually a little better. Last report I was below optimum for Phosphate...everything else the same. PH of last sample was 6.8 - I'm good with anything in the 6 PH range. The plant and micro herd will regulate the PH.
JoetheChro
Well-Known Member
I think Auxins are created in the upper portions of the plants tips when they are actively growing, promoting cell elongation. Then they are moved along in the plant to the base where they help the plant grow roots... Auxins are what we like to use for clones to help promote root growth. That's what those "rooting hormones" are made with. I use straight water in my cloner and spray the clones leaves with a mild kelp tea.... usually works.
No effect on health that I see... I grow somewhat shorter plants .... with these new lamps they are all stretching more and growing larger. So other than yield which is up, that's the only difference that I've noticed.
No difference in quality of flower... really the only change in my routine has been switching to all VERO29 COBs and I used more of our home made compost as the humus portion in our soil mix. We top dressed with our compost + peat moss in our outdoor flower gardens this spring and we had HUGE flowers this summer.
I just used up the last of the soil I was using in the last 4-5 rounds. I always have a new mix waiting in the wings. So I took a sample of that soil I had in totes and sent off a sample to my state County Extension Service. I just got my report back via e-mail. I put the sample in the mail last Friday and had the report in my e-mail yesterday.. so took about 4 business days to get my report back.
So here's my soil report.. it's not as comprehensive as the Va Tech reports are, but good enough.
Suggestion for me is to add some lime... meh. Ca is high enough but I'll sprinkle a little in.. they want to raise my soil PH but I prefer it to be a little acidic. This actually helps in containers and once there's a plant in there with a lot of roots, that soil PH will be regulated by the soil micro-organisms and the plants root exudates.
Also there's a suggestion to add .5 lbs of UREA per 100 sq ft of garden space... ok so calculating 100 sq ft of soil that is 8" deep... that's 560 THOUSAND gallons of soil. I have about 60 gallons of soil so.... a teaspoon of UREA.... not going to worry about it. Plus UREA is whats in .... urine.. prolly not going to add any to my soil. Just sayin.
When I plant a new plant in its final container, I always put a cup of EWC and a few tbs of amendments (BAS mix) and mycos. So any suggestion is covered with that and them some.
So basically they have to make some suggestions; to me this report is perfect or close enough. This report is VERY close to my previous report, its actually a little better. Last report I was below optimum for Phosphate...everything else the same. PH of last sample was 6.8 - I'm good with anything in the 6 PH range. The plant and micro herd will regulate the PH.
Perfect. Thank you Mr Brown
Interesting on the soil report bob. On the Ca....take a look at Kelzyme Element XX....35% carbonate form from ancient sea beds so loaded w/ trace mins. too. Ugh on the urea....industry loves it....fast greening & growth but infuses bud w/ water not minerals. Dry buds shrink like hell. Not medicinal flowers. Worst is leftover salts from what plant doesn't use/need & leaves behind in soil. Just horrible imo. You know plenty re soil.....just throwing in my 2 cents. Happy Thanksgiving bro. 
Forgot to add that White Buffalo strain seems to have leaf twist & variegation not related to pH. Have a Platinum Buffalo in flower & good health showing ongoing twist, slight tip mutation, & variegation.
Forgot to add that White Buffalo strain seems to have leaf twist & variegation not related to pH. Have a Platinum Buffalo in flower & good health showing ongoing twist, slight tip mutation, & variegation.
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
Awesome thanx for the info i was guna put some ewc and water it in threw the funnel hole i have so ill jus use some kelp meal with it specially since i just literly flipped her into the flower tent 3 min ago lol
Sorry for the late post....Happy Thanksgiving Bob. Hope you and your family had a great meal and great day together brother!
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- #1,371
Interesting on the soil report bob. On the Ca....take a look at Kelzyme Element XX....35% carbonate form from ancient sea beds so loaded w/ trace mins. too. Ugh on the urea....industry loves it....fast greening & growth but infuses bud w/ water not minerals. Dry buds shrink like hell. Not medicinal flowers. Worst is leftover salts from what plant doesn't use/need & leaves behind in soil. Just horrible imo. You know plenty re soil.....just throwing in my 2 cents. Happy Thanksgiving bro.
Forgot to add that White Buffalo strain seems to have leaf twist & variegation not related to pH. Have a Platinum Buffalo in flower & good health showing ongoing twist, slight tip mutation, & variegation.
Thanks BL for the tip on it & purchased
, hope you had a great turkey day ... We have in-laws visiting from out of country for a little while longer so I've sorta been in stealth mode in the gardens. Surprised they haven't asked about the smell!! fingers x'd, so far so good. My mother in law is the sort of person that could go thru the flower room and pull out all the plants.... well at least try. Last visit I had everything under lock and key! going with karma this time. Coupla more daze... off to the airport!
That twist thing is weird... had it on the Dolato.. she grew out of it. The Buffalato all have it with slight tip thing as well.. and a little variegation. Hoping they grow out of it. They only are working on 2nd true leaves and barely ... I'm just hoping for a few more leaf sets then I'm out of the woods with the seedlings.
One of my clones in VEG right beside the Buffalato seedlings had a minor mite outbreak. Had to spray everything with Spinosad. Tried to go very light on the seedlings ... this young they cant really take much abuse. The Dolato looked exactly the same and she's looking GREAT now!
Urea... go to for chemical farmers... shame really since here in PA many many of our local farms are going organic/biodynamic and selling produce and meats/eggs thru CSA thru Localharvest.org.
You can find your local organic farmer thru that website.. One of my local organic farms (about 50 miles from our home) does online ordering and then delivers what we order to a home about 5 blocks from where we live. Saweet... best organic eggs I've ever eaten too, $3.50 a dozen. Last week we bought a bunch of stuff mainly organic grass fed meat... came out to $5/lb for everything we ordered including delivery. Took me 5 minutes to pick it up, took longer to order online!
There's several biodynamic farms around us... get to go out to the farm and go wheeling since all the roads there are mud! win win
My wife was taking pictures of our pickup truck after we went to the farm last time... I'm like why are you taking pics of the truck...she said: "your truck looks bad ass with all the mud on it, very macho".... I'm like wait, what? Mud on my truck? Mud was on the passenger side.... I don't go over there! hahaha
Lola is the Bedroom cookie at the bottom, bred by Rich Farmer.
4Dutchess
Well-Known Member
Morning Bob, with the HTfern tea do I need to add a few drops of soap to the spray? Im also thinking after it cools, strain it before storage and use??
Im not sure which MITE you were referring to having? Russets? Spider?
Thanks B.Brown.
Im not sure which MITE you were referring to having? Russets? Spider?
Thanks B.Brown.
Hey there mr brown.. heard you had bought a pack of slurricanes and were wondering about it. Well let me tell you.. shes worth it! Day 35 and shes falling all over her buddy.
Hope i didnt intrude.. have a great day mr brown!
Hope i didnt intrude.. have a great day mr brown!
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- #1,375
I leave the HT Fern in the water after it cools and into the fridge, then use a strainer when pouring into my sprayer. No need for soap.
Mites.. we get the 2 spotted Spider Mites here.... AKA "Borge"... relentless little shits.
The Russets are a little tougher to get rid of as they have a 3 cycle life .... with a longer nymph stage X2... I would look into Beneficial Nematodes. I use them and introduced them into our compost bins at the beginning of each new compost cycle (usually early spring). You can introduce Nematodes to your soil containers as well. I just put them in my compost and they live there in a natural balance and help keep the bad bug population in control.
Russests....
The nymph stages are 8-16 days apart. So Monterrey Garden spray (along with the Silica/HT fern tea) @ 1-2 tbs every 3 days for at least a month indoors + don't miss spraying the soil. The Nymph stage will be closer to the 8 days indoors since the conditions are more favorable ... outside they re-appear in the spring so you have to get a head of them before they take hold. Spray the plants and surrounding soil with your IPM mix and I would add Neem Cake to the soil (its a natural insect repellent).
The idea with is to kill adults before they can lay eggs again, then there will be 2 more 8 day cylces of nymph stages turning into adults - kill them each time they get to adulthood no more eggs no more mites. The russets as almost all pests, tend to attack weak plants, so don't keep them around.
They sell Beneficial Nematodes on Amazon.. I bought 1 container and it lasted me a few years (kept in the fridge). I add a few tbs to my compost that I'm going to use for my soil mix.
I found this a good read on them... IPM - control is all we can hope for.
Pest: Hemp Russet Mite - Pest Control - Ommp Pay It Forward
We get spider mites from time to time... likely they are hitching a ride on our clothing --> house --> indoor gardens. Those mites are everywhere... impossible to get rid of them, control is all I can hope for. Russets are likely similar but more difficult since 2 nymph stages farther apart in time.
Best just to get in the habit of using an IPM routine 2x a week = control.
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
I'm kind of worrying I'm breeding neem resistant bugs because I put neem cake in my soil and have been treating with neem oil soil drenches and foliar sprays as well. Been thinking about adding spinosad and pyrethrum to the IPM scheme.
Good read there Mister BBrown. They are scary. Whats really scarier is they winter over............. BTW your nailing it with the DT.
GL and Keepem Green
GL and Keepem Green
4Dutchess
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bob. I remember no soap but Aloe you use as a sticker
I was thinking of getting some Neem cake but not sure where? Will they get resistant? Is it just the Russet mites that get immune? Seems like a good thing per plant maybe for others that dont get immune.
Thanks 420
TheFertilizer
Well-Known Member
They don't really get "immune" there's just members of the population that are more resistant to certain things, and so they end up living on and then breeding and passing their genetics to a new generation which will have a higher percentage of resistant members as well. The key is repeated applications and cycling what you use on them so that you kill off those resistant members before they have a chance to breed their resistance into their successors. That's why knowing the life stages is so crucial.
But yeah I'm real curious if neem cake in the soil will have the effect of breeding resistance. It kind of seems like it would have the potential in my mind because if the azadirachtin is in the plant as a systemic from the neem cake, then whatever bugs I've found living on my plant have been eating it and surviving, so does that mean they're azadirachtin resistant?
I haven't seen anymore since I sprayed with soapy water. SO they may have been neem resistant, but not soapy water resistant lol
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- #1,380
IPM FTMFW.. it's really the only way to get to harvest. NeeM Cake/Karanga Cake in the soil mix is the my go to really.... bugs hate that shit. Can top dress with neem cake and watch the soil microbes go crazy.
DT.... thanks Woody. They are my golden children right now. Everybody LOVES those buds. With a nice 2 week cure they really have some nice stink to them. Lemon + Wood ... longer cure and it gets more danky lemon + danky wood... and hairy buds.
Woody - have you ever ran Chemdawg?? You rock everything .. I'd love to see your magic with that strain. I think you'd love the meds too. You WILL get high.
I should start rolling the DT dried (or fresh) buds on a coarse mesh screen... prolly give me a heart attack, Must resist! hahahaha
Give those buds a little hair cut b-4 drying... might be just the trick!
TF said:
I don't think that's possible. Neem is one of the strongest organic treatments out there.. taste that shit... actually I'll save you the trouble. It's nasty, 1 minor application and you can rid your house of fleas... tics .... bed bugs and if you have a troubled lady... prolly get rid of her too. Just sayin... If you're doing neem cake - add some Karanga Cake to the mix 50/50. Bacteria wins over these freak bugs.
I use neem cake water (soak some neem cake in water & strain) and Monterrey Garden Spray 1-2 tbs/gal water and spray the shit out of everything.. floor, walls, plants, soil everything, top to btm and then btm to top and keep doing it... like a hurricane. You'd be surprised how much the ladies like that treatment.. it's like a bath.. you know ladies like a nice bath right?
Every 1 of my finished girls have had several IPM showers... down the stretch you can just do silica and water to rinse off the neem residue (if there's any) .. and/or bud wash after harvest.
Update
Start off with Family Picture since its Thanksgiving season and all:
Our new pup - Rosie Wrinkles - she's not quite 3 month old. Her nic is "Little Monkey" :
Our garden family picture; stack'in it flowers:
Labyrinth Tops:
Labyrinth popcorn lower buds:
More popcorn:
Closer upper popcorn:
Labyrinth - getting close.. some more lower flowers:
Labyrinth upper tops.... starting to get some color on the fans:
DT #4 - Getting colors too... The Labyrinth and DT #4 are partly under the 1750K COBs.. only plants that are getting some colors other than gold ... so far. But they are the oldest girls this round.
DT #4 some more - this is what DT #1 looked like when I chopped her, she was straight up Sativa white knuckles hold on to the wheel cause we have lift off... high, with a shuttle landing. I'm starting to see 2 slightly different phenos here... very very slight. This is one. She's a little shorter @ 6' and looks like this - seems to finish a few weeks earlier. The other pheno is the tall pheno, grow to the ceiling @ 8' or more and the high is more mellow (for a Sativa) & later finish. The smells are very similar lemon + wood. My friends are starting to drool on this. Finally... sheesh.
Jungle Shot - there's 2 plants there in a 4'x4' space. Labyrinth in the front and DT #4 in the back under the 1750K and 3K COBs - I'll take a pic of the other side of the room with straight up all 3K COBs... the plants are HUGE over there in comparo. 4-6' here..... 8' over there. That's not a small difference. Yields are similar as well. Getting 2x the yields but pheno may be in play... must do more puffage to confirm!
Thinking of making seeds. I want to use this HUGE ass DT tall pheno, and cross her with PMB (Purple Monkey Balls) - very similar lineage - the difference between DT and PMB is the female side.
PMB = sputnik 1.0 f2 x black Russian x Acapulco Gold x C99(male)
DT = Durban Poison x Acapulco Gold x C99(male)
I'm not a breeder and I know very little about genetics but I think keeping close to fam is important??
Prolly still have a shit wave of phenos to hunt thru.
I've got 3 PMB in VEG now.. I think at least 1 is male... but he's not very impressive, yet and not sure if male either.
More to come!