Everything looking lush Bob .
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No those temps are perfect... I'm right around those temps here. I actually like to get down into the high 50s at night but not sure why... With in-laws visiting my flower room has been buttoned up a little tighter than normal so the temps have been about the same as yours.. maybe a little warmer lights on but not by much.
Here's my canopy shots yesterday, btm of lights @ 6' 3" - I can stand in there and not have to bend over:
You can see my temp range from 2 nights ago... was a little warmer due to heat turned up for the in-laws. I opened a window after taking these pics... maybe get a little color to the flowers today. Last night was 66 and 82.
With these Vero COBs the plants are stretching for 2-3 weeks even after setting buds they keep stretching. ----------------------VVV
Yesterday - - can see the ties I have pulling the tops away from lamps::
Here's a canopy shot from last Friday:
Here's from a week ago - the plants on the left there are above the lamps today same as first pic ^^^ that's like 2' of stretch in 1 week and burnt tips:
Mini update:
Dolato in VEG:
This was last week:
This is yesterday.... she's filling out and getting bushy - Likely the next plant in flower:
Dolato VEG close up of top:
DT #5 - lower down bud candy:
DT #6 - cola pic... she's about 28ish days from flip here:
DT #7 - 20ish days in flower:
Labyrinth #1 - Clone .. also 20ish days in flower
DT #4 - getting closer.. waiting for Ms. Fatty Buds to finish doin her thing. The orange tint is those 1750K Vero COBs... they make it look like Mars. Hopefully the flowers are out of this word too!
DT #4 - stackin it to the man... this was 58 days in flower.
Those DT's dont look all that fat but @ 7' tall, gonna have another epic haul. I'll let them go as long as my girls in VEG can hang in there waiting. I can replace 1 DT with 2 hybrid plants.
In VEG:
3 Chemdawgs in VEG - they are big 24" (1 had spider mites and treated)
4 DTs in VEG 2 are 22" the other 2 are about 12" and some more clones just into soil
1 Dolato @ 20"
Several seedlings (3 - Buffalato starting just like the Dolato - weird spiraling on 1st set of leaves)
More clones of DT and Chem just starting. The Chem clones always take a while to get going... always planning way ahead with them.
very nice bb hey i just had a question ive been using my first batch of soil still on some of my plants its been reamended like 5 or 6 times roughly and well ive been vegging this girl for over 4 months and in the last like 2 r 3 weeks she all of a sudden started getting really yellow and now lookslike she is eating herself up idk why she is burning the leaves but i give her a tea from buildasoil craft blend and she will starten to darken up alil bit for like a week or 2 but then back to yellowing i also gave her a kelp meal tea to and same thing goes good for about a week starting to look like she will come back and then bam again starts going yellow im doing a flux grow with this girl and idk i just feel like the soil is worn out or something idk what to do i really dont wana throw her away since ive been training her for over 4 months i just dont want that to be wasted time but any ideas what i could do should i just throw her into flower so i get sumthn for a yield and just move on or is there sumthn i can do any and all help would greatly be appreciated thanx here she is she is early vixen from crop king seeds
Have you found a difference in bud quality between taller plants and shorter ones?
I can't explain it but is it a bit like having a piece of dough and rolling it into a ball. It should weigh the same as when you started regardless of shape. Then it is stretched, losing its form but still maintaining the same mass.
Sorry for the example, I couldn't think of anything else
Are bigger plants healthier than shorter ones? It seems natural but does the growth auxin affect the amount of THC?
I'm not knocking what you do, I send this message with a flourish of my hand and bow to your gardening skills
4D said:a little shorter than 8' - the tent is 7' to the ceiling and the plants grow all the way up to that but they get tied over so they are probably 8' tall at chop.
I think Auxins are created in the upper portions of the plants tips when they are actively growing, promoting cell elongation. Then they are moved along in the plant to the base where they help the plant grow roots... Auxins are what we like to use for clones to help promote root growth. That's what those "rooting hormones" are made with. I use straight water in my cloner and spray the clones leaves with a mild kelp tea.... usually works.
No effect on health that I see... I grow somewhat shorter plants .... with these new lamps they are all stretching more and growing larger. So other than yield which is up, that's the only difference that I've noticed.
No difference in quality of flower... really the only change in my routine has been switching to all VERO29 COBs and I used more of our home made compost as the humus portion in our soil mix. We top dressed with our compost + peat moss in our outdoor flower gardens this spring and we had HUGE flowers this summer.
I just used up the last of the soil I was using in the last 4-5 rounds. I always have a new mix waiting in the wings. So I took a sample of that soil I had in totes and sent off a sample to my state County Extension Service. I just got my report back via e-mail. I put the sample in the mail last Friday and had the report in my e-mail yesterday.. so took about 4 business days to get my report back.
So here's my soil report.. it's not as comprehensive as the Va Tech reports are, but good enough.
Suggestion for me is to add some lime... meh. Ca is high enough but I'll sprinkle a little in.. they want to raise my soil PH but I prefer it to be a little acidic. This actually helps in containers and once there's a plant in there with a lot of roots, that soil PH will be regulated by the soil micro-organisms and the plants root exudates.
Also there's a suggestion to add .5 lbs of UREA per 100 sq ft of garden space... ok so calculating 100 sq ft of soil that is 8" deep... that's 560 THOUSAND gallons of soil. I have about 60 gallons of soil so.... a teaspoon of UREA.... not going to worry about it. Plus UREA is whats in .... urine.. prolly not going to add any to my soil. Just sayin.
When I plant a new plant in its final container, I always put a cup of EWC and a few tbs of amendments (BAS mix) and mycos. So any suggestion is covered with that and them some.
So basically they have to make some suggestions; to me this report is perfect or close enough. This report is VERY close to my previous report, its actually a little better. Last report I was below optimum for Phosphate...everything else the same. PH of last sample was 6.8 - I'm good with anything in the 6 PH range. The plant and micro herd will regulate the PH.
Awesome thanx for the info i was guna put some ewc and water it in threw the funnel hole i have so ill jus use some kelp meal with it specially since i just literly flipped her into the flower tent 3 min ago lolThis plant the only one with issues?? I see you're "mainlining" or whatever that is... not an expert on that method, however annuals won't keep leaves for-ever. They tend to fall off and the plant will grow new ones as long at the light schedule is still VEG cycle.
What tends to get depleted first in this soil is Ca.... calcium. I don't usually recommend this but sometimes it helps with this soil that's been used a bunch. Try 1 tbs of Epsom salt in 1/2 gal of water and water in. Should only use Epsom Salt once .... can over do it and make things worse.
That and scratch in top of soil 1 cup EWC and 1/2 cup of kelp meal if you can get access to the soil...I usually do this at flip to flower but I'm only in that soil for 60-70 days then chop and re-amend again.
Interesting on the soil report bob. On the Ca....take a look at Kelzyme Element XX....35% carbonate form from ancient sea beds so loaded w/ trace mins. too. Ugh on the urea....industry loves it....fast greening & growth but infuses bud w/ water not minerals. Dry buds shrink like hell. Not medicinal flowers. Worst is leftover salts from what plant doesn't use/need & leaves behind in soil. Just horrible imo. You know plenty re soil.....just throwing in my 2 cents. Happy Thanksgiving bro.
Forgot to add that White Buffalo strain seems to have leaf twist & variegation not related to pH. Have a Platinum Buffalo in flower & good health showing ongoing twist, slight tip mutation, & variegation.
Morning Bob, with the HTfern tea do I need to add a few drops of soap to the spray? Im also thinking after it cools, strain it before storage and use??
Im not sure which MITE you were referring to having? Russets? Spider?
Thanks B.Brown.
I leave the HT Fern in the water after it cools and into the fridge, then use a strainer when pouring into my sprayer. No need for soap.
Mites.. we get the 2 spotted Spider Mites here.... AKA "Borge"... relentless little shits.
The Russets are a little tougher to get rid of as they have a 3 cycle life .... with a longer nymph stage X2... I would look into Beneficial Nematodes. I use them and introduced them into our compost bins at the beginning of each new compost cycle (usually early spring). You can introduce Nematodes to your soil containers as well. I just put them in my compost and they live there in a natural balance and help keep the bad bug population in control.
Russests....
The nymph stages are 8-16 days apart. So Monterrey Garden spray (along with the Silica/HT fern tea) @ 1-2 tbs every 3 days for at least a month indoors + don't miss spraying the soil. The Nymph stage will be closer to the 8 days indoors since the conditions are more favorable ... outside they re-appear in the spring so you have to get a head of them before they take hold. Spray the plants and surrounding soil with your IPM mix and I would add Neem Cake to the soil (its a natural insect repellent).
The idea with is to kill adults before they can lay eggs again, then there will be 2 more 8 day cylces of nymph stages turning into adults - kill them each time they get to adulthood no more eggs no more mites. The russets as almost all pests, tend to attack weak plants, so don't keep them around.
They sell Beneficial Nematodes on Amazon.. I bought 1 container and it lasted me a few years (kept in the fridge). I add a few tbs to my compost that I'm going to use for my soil mix.
I found this a good read on them... IPM - control is all we can hope for.
Pest: Hemp Russet Mite - Pest Control - Ommp Pay It Forward
We get spider mites from time to time... likely they are hitching a ride on our clothing --> house --> indoor gardens. Those mites are everywhere... impossible to get rid of them, control is all I can hope for. Russets are likely similar but more difficult since 2 nymph stages farther apart in time.
Best just to get in the habit of using an IPM routine 2x a week = control.
I'm kind of worrying I'm breeding neem resistant bugs because I put neem cake in my soil and have been treating with neem oil soil drenches and foliar sprays as well. Been thinking about adding spinosad and pyrethrum to the IPM scheme.
Thanks Bob. I remember no soap but Aloe you use as a sticker
I was thinking of getting some Neem cake but not sure where? Will they get resistant? Is it just the Russet mites that get immune? Seems like a good thing per plant maybe for others that dont get immune.
Thanks 420
Good read there Mister BBrown. They are scary. Whats really scarier is they winter over............. BTW your nailing it with the DT.
GL and Keepem Green
TF said:I'm kind of worrying I'm breeding neem resistant bugs because I put neem cake in my soil and have been treating with neem oil soil drenches and foliar sprays as well. Been thinking about adding spinosad and pyrethrum to the IPM scheme.