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Thank you chomLooking good chom.
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Thank you chomLooking good chom.
@Lerugged I think you might not have seen this chom, how are your winter plants doing out on the deck in the rain? I don't know whether to rehome the second Gelato or try it outside. What would you do with an extra auto at this stage of the game asablief?Thank you chomDo you think I can put my new seedling outside in a couple of weeks time? This rain is a lot. I was going to plant it in a fabric grow bag on top of the garden bed, so that the rain water can drain. That way if the goodies leach out of the soil and go into the ground, the roots can still get there. What do you think?
This quote is from my January grow. I have leaf issues again! It is indeed the same soil that has messed with every grow so far. I have sent a message to some local grow gurus who know and sell the soil. It has happened enough times now for me to know that it is definitely this Orgasoilux. It's too hot. It is listed as a "living super soil", whatever that means in the grand scheme of soils. It is supposed to be a water only product, which is what I have done this grow. I have watered with rain water in the swick.I don't see canoeing!
In terms of calmag and nitrogen, isn't this soil the one from the grower who uses it for his healthy plants? Did you see signs of a calmag deficiency that made you add it?
Thanks Shed. There was no yellowing. The leaves looked shadowy and then they looked like this. Now they look dry in patches. The plant looks well overall so I am not worrying terribly about that one. If she doesn't do wonderful things I won't be disappointed because she was fragile from the outset.I'm not sure it even is a magnesium deficiency because I can't tell if that damage started as yellowing between the veins. They don't show anything as of Thursday (my time) so I don't know what happened since. If there isn't yellowing and the spots appear out of nowhere, that could be calcium.
Have you ever pH tested the soil? Sometimes unexplained necrosis turns out to be some rare micronutrient deficiency/toxicity due to a pH out of the expected range (6.3-6.8). Boron deficiency causes inter-vein damage as well, but it's not often seen unless the soil pH heads into the 7's. Calcium deficiencies appear at soil pH of low 6's and under.
I have a graph!Boron deficiency causes inter-vein damage as well, but it's not often seen unless the soil pH heads into the 7's. Calcium deficiencies appear at soil pH of low 6's and under.
Do you think it will air out in good time? It's on a cake rack over a tub, so gravity is working, and there is air underneath the pot. I did of course remove the wicks.Well at least the bulk of the water is gone!
If I add fresh soil to the top will that help? I was wondering what to do because the whole mass has sunk down a lot. It's really compact. I can't help but worry.I have a graph!
I was a bit heavy handed with water into the potting soil after paper last week for the seedlings. I tried some judicious perlite sprinkling as its so absorbent but Azi recommended worm castings (apart fron potting/seedling soil (And & Co) we don’t have that sort of witchcraftery on hand.
They were all ok in the end but its fristrating when you’re just like “Dry dammit! Now!”
Nick
I've come to this conclusion myself. I want to make some changes. I just don't know what system is going to be most cost effective and simplest to control. Generic ideas would be most welcome. Products vary from country to country and we don't have the same brand names here that you have.I must say I really don't like your soil! I feel like your rough starts have to be short shrifting your harvests with autos.
For starting seeds just look for a product that is only peat moss, perlite, dolomite lime & a wetting agent Most cheap potting soils are Or make your own starting with peat moss or coco coirI've come to this conclusion myself. I want to make some changes. I just don't know what system is going to be most cost effective and simplest to control. Generic ideas would be most welcome. Products vary from country to country and we don't have the same brand names here that you have.
That's true. I meant like what kind of alternatives are simple, in other words hard to screw up with ph issues? When I started growing I grew in cocopeat and perlite mix with nutrients that came in three bottles. I actually enjoyed that but I've forgotten how now. I used plastic pots for that.Not sure what's available and what's expensive, but Lerugged seems like he'd know better than anyone.
Hi Joe, nice to see you. Thank you. I did use a 50 % bonsai seedling mix which has been fine. It is now that the plants are in the main pots and their roots have reached the hot soil that the issues are occurring. I have to make a complete change. Its a recurring issue with this particular soil, indoors with the autos. I used it successfully outdoors with photos.For starting seeds just look for a product that is only peat moss, perlite, dolomite lime & a wetting agent Most cheap potting soils are Or make your own starting with peat moss or coco coir
Seeds have all the nutrients they need for the first couple of weeks built into the seed
You can help dry out the top of the soil with a bit of air flow across the top from a gentle fan. That doesn't help the soil compaction of the rest, but you know what does in an organic grow?
That's right, @NickHardy 's worm castings. They're covered in a calcium carbonate slime when they exit the south end of a worm moving north and, according to @Gee64 , the calcium helps open up the soil by turning some soil particles on edge adding to the air exchange.
There seems no limit to the simple worm casting. "Now available at retailers near you!"
The technical term is " floculates" and is often referred to as "tilth" and its actually a magnetic dance between calcium and magnesium. Thats why its ratioed in cal/mag.
When the ratio is correct, and the right amount is used, the soil fluffs.
As calcium drops, magnesium becomes stronger, and does 2 things.
It compacts the soil, and it uses the extra charge it has in calciums absence to tie up nitrogen.
Its natures throttle restrictor. If calcium is low then there is no need to waste nitrogen on a doomed plant so nature chooses to starve the plant of nitrogen and leave all the aminos (nitrogens) in the soil.
Earth worms and common weeds cycle the heavy calcium from down deep in the soil to the surface. Once worms and weeds fix the soil then the nitrogen becomes available again and a seed in the wind will find it.