Carmen's Winter Autos With ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro!

[Carmen Ray]

Looking good chom.

Thank you chom Do you think I can put my new seedling outside in a couple of weeks time? This rain is a lot. I was going to plant it in a fabric grow bag on top of the garden bed, so that the rain water can drain. That way if the goodies leach out of the soil and go into the ground, the roots can still get there. What do you think?

 

[InTheShed]

Congrats on the upcans!

 

[Carmen Ray]

Thank you chom Do you think I can put my new seedling outside in a couple of weeks time? This rain is a lot. I was going to plant it in a fabric grow bag on top of the garden bed, so that the rain water can drain. That way if the goodies leach out of the soil and go into the ground, the roots can still get there. What do you think?

@Lerugged I think you might not have seen this chom, how are your winter plants doing out on the deck in the rain? I don't know whether to rehome the second Gelato or try it outside. What would you do with an extra auto at this stage of the game asablief?

 

[Lerugged]

Hmm my deck is super slow. As you know there has not been much sun the last month or so. Less than usual. It's cold too. Honestly i don't think an auto will do anything outside at the moment. Maybe if we get some sun in the next few weeks it might work. I'd just keep it under a lamp or on a window sill if you don't have space under proper lights and see what happens

 

[Carmen Ray]

I don't see canoeing!

In terms of calmag and nitrogen, isn't this soil the one from the grower who uses it for his healthy plants? Did you see signs of a calmag deficiency that made you add it?

This quote is from my January grow. I have leaf issues again! It is indeed the same soil that has messed with every grow so far. I have sent a message to some local grow gurus who know and sell the soil. It has happened enough times now for me to know that it is definitely this Orgasoilux. It's too hot. It is listed as a "living super soil", whatever that means in the grand scheme of soils. It is supposed to be a water only product, which is what I have done this grow. I have watered with rain water in the swick.

Now, I have repeated the same mistake that I made in January. Such a "loskop" thing to do. Let me try to explain. I asked for advice and @InTheShed suggested that I dose the plants with Epsom salts to treat what appears to be a magnesium deficiency. It was early in the night and looked to be getting worse on the Parmesan auto, and I don't have Epsom salts on hand, so I did what @InTheShed specifically told me not to do. I panicked and gave them both calmag. What a "dof" thing to do.

I have just flushed the Gelato auto because 6 hours after the calmag the leaves appeared to be clawing more. The pot is draining in the shower and her leaves are drying. I sprayed the plant down with a LABs solution because I had it on hand and I needed to spray the dirt off the leaves. I figured it can't hurt.

The Parmesan auto on the other hand, appears to be much the same as it was, so I haven't flushed this plant yet, but perhaps I should?

I'm sorry I didn't follow your advice earlier, Shed.

Gelato auto before the calmag

Leaf Tips Clawing

• Carmen Ray
• Jul 1, 2023
• leaf issues los swick

3rd and 4th nodes.

Gelato auto after the calmag

Gelato auto

• Carmen Ray
• Jul 1, 2023
• 1
• cannabis seedling clawing

leaf issues

Parmesan auto before the calmag

Parmesan auto

• Carmen Ray
• Jul 1, 2023
• leaf issues los swick

Leaf issues.

Necrotic Looking Leaf

• Carmen Ray
• Jul 1, 2023
• leaf issues los swick

1st node

Necrotic Looking Leaf

• Carmen Ray
• Jul 1, 2023
• leaf issues los swick

2nd node.

 

[InTheShed]

I'm not sure it even is a magnesium deficiency because I can't tell if that damage started as yellowing between the veins. They don't show anything as of Thursday (my time) so I don't know what happened since. If there isn't yellowing and the spots appear out of nowhere, that could be calcium.

Have you ever pH tested the soil? Sometimes unexplained necrosis turns out to be some rare micronutrient deficiency/toxicity due to a pH out of the expected range (6.3-6.8). Boron deficiency causes inter-vein damage as well, but it's not often seen unless the soil pH heads into the 7's. Calcium deficiencies appear at soil pH of low 6's and under.

 

[Carmen Ray]

I'm not sure it even is a magnesium deficiency because I can't tell if that damage started as yellowing between the veins. They don't show anything as of Thursday (my time) so I don't know what happened since. If there isn't yellowing and the spots appear out of nowhere, that could be calcium.

Have you ever pH tested the soil? Sometimes unexplained necrosis turns out to be some rare micronutrient deficiency/toxicity due to a pH out of the expected range (6.3-6.8). Boron deficiency causes inter-vein damage as well, but it's not often seen unless the soil pH heads into the 7's. Calcium deficiencies appear at soil pH of low 6's and under.

Thanks Shed. There was no yellowing. The leaves looked shadowy and then they looked like this. Now they look dry in patches. The plant looks well overall so I am not worrying terribly about that one. If she doesn't do wonderful things I won't be disappointed because she was fragile from the outset.

This Gelato however, has been such a robust plant and I think I may not have been gentle enough with the flush. Now her feet are sitting in soggy, compacted soil. I poked a couple of holes in the bottom of the pot with a knife end and there is no dripping.

 

[InTheShed]

Well at least the bulk of the water is gone!

 

[NickHardy]

Boron deficiency causes inter-vein damage as well, but it's not often seen unless the soil pH heads into the 7's. Calcium deficiencies appear at soil pH of low 6's and under.

I have a graph!

I was a bit heavy handed with water into the potting soil after paper last week for the seedlings. I tried some judicious perlite sprinkling as its so absorbent but Azi recommended worm castings (apart fron potting/seedling soil (And & Co) we don’t have that sort of witchcraftery on hand.

They were all ok in the end but its fristrating when you’re just like “Dry dammit! Now!”

Nick

 

[Carmen Ray]

Well at least the bulk of the water is gone!

Do you think it will air out in good time? It's on a cake rack over a tub, so gravity is working, and there is air underneath the pot. I did of course remove the wicks.

I have a graph!

I was a bit heavy handed with water into the potting soil after paper last week for the seedlings. I tried some judicious perlite sprinkling as its so absorbent but Azi recommended worm castings (apart fron potting/seedling soil (And & Co) we don’t have that sort of witchcraftery on hand.

They were all ok in the end but its fristrating when you’re just like “Dry dammit! Now!”

Nick

If I add fresh soil to the top will that help? I was wondering what to do because the whole mass has sunk down a lot. It's really compact. I can't help but worry.

I know I have to be patient but I don't want to regret not having spoken up immediately I become concerned.

 

[Carmen Ray]

I have a positive update:

Parmesan auto seems to be going at the same speed as she has done from birth, slowly. However she doesn't look any worse since the dose of calmag yesterday.

Parmesan auto

• Carmen Ray
• Jul 2, 2023
• calmag parmesan auto swick swicking vipar spectra xs1500 pro

Day after calmag. Not looking any worse.

Gelato auto was bedraggled this morning and she perked up really quickly. I hope I caught the issue in time and that the flush has helped. She doesn't look any worse than before the flush.

Gelato auto 1

• Carmen Ray
• Jul 2, 2023
• gelato auto herbies seeds swick swicking vipar spectra xs1500 pro

9 Hours after a brutal flush. Looking positively perky. Side branches starting to grow.

Gelato auto #2 is looking so fit I want to speak to some local soil experts and find out how to avoid the leaf issues going forward.

Gelato auto 2

• Carmen Ray
• Jul 2, 2023
• cannabis seedling gelato auto herbies seeds swick swicking vipar spectra xs1500 pro

Looking good.

Please feel free to comment.

Thanks for the support!

 

[InTheShed]

I must say I really don't like your soil! I feel like your rough starts have to be short shrifting your harvests with autos.

 

[Carmen Ray]

I must say I really don't like your soil! I feel like your rough starts have to be short shrifting your harvests with autos.

I've come to this conclusion myself. I want to make some changes. I just don't know what system is going to be most cost effective and simplest to control. Generic ideas would be most welcome. Products vary from country to country and we don't have the same brand names here that you have.

 

[InTheShed]

Not sure what's available and what's expensive, but Lerugged seems like he'd know better than anyone.

 

[Joe Brewster]

I've come to this conclusion myself. I want to make some changes. I just don't know what system is going to be most cost effective and simplest to control. Generic ideas would be most welcome. Products vary from country to country and we don't have the same brand names here that you have.

For starting seeds just look for a product that is only peat moss, perlite, dolomite lime & a wetting agent Most cheap potting soils are Or make your own starting with peat moss or coco coir
Seeds have all the nutrients they need for the first couple of weeks built into the seed

 

[Carmen Ray]

Not sure what's available and what's expensive, but Lerugged seems like he'd know better than anyone.

That's true. I meant like what kind of alternatives are simple, in other words hard to screw up with ph issues? When I started growing I grew in cocopeat and perlite mix with nutrients that came in three bottles. I actually enjoyed that but I've forgotten how now. I used plastic pots for that.

LR mixes his own soil, a lot of it foraged I think. I'm waiting for Monday to talk to the people who sell a variety of different grow media. Hopefully they can give me a tried and tested medium to use. I can't mix my own due to space and storage constraints.

For starting seeds just look for a product that is only peat moss, perlite, dolomite lime & a wetting agent Most cheap potting soils are Or make your own starting with peat moss or coco coir
Seeds have all the nutrients they need for the first couple of weeks built into the seed

Hi Joe, nice to see you. Thank you. I did use a 50 % bonsai seedling mix which has been fine. It is now that the plants are in the main pots and their roots have reached the hot soil that the issues are occurring. I have to make a complete change. Its a recurring issue with this particular soil, indoors with the autos. I used it successfully outdoors with photos.

 

[Azimuth]

You can help dry out the top of the soil with a bit of air flow across the top from a gentle fan. That doesn't help the soil compaction of the rest, but you know what does in an organic grow?

That's right, @NickHardy 's worm castings. They're covered in a calcium carbonate slime when they exit the south end of a worm moving north and, according to @Gee64 , the calcium helps open up the soil by turning some soil particles on edge adding to the air exchange.

There seems no limit to the simple worm casting. "Now available at retailers near you!"

 

[Gee64]

The technical term is " floculates" and is often referred to as "tilth" and its actually a magnetic dance between calcium and magnesium. Thats why its ratioed in cal/mag.

When the ratio is correct, and the right amount is used, the soil fluffs.

As calcium drops, magnesium becomes stronger, and does 2 things.

It compacts the soil, and it uses the extra charge it has in calciums absence to tie up nitrogen.

Its natures throttle restrictor. If calcium is low then there is no need to waste nitrogen on a doomed plant so nature chooses to starve the plant of nitrogen and leave all the aminos (nitrogens) in the soil.

Earth worms and common weeds cycle the heavy calcium from down deep in the soil to the surface. Once worms and weeds fix the soil then the nitrogen becomes available again and a seed in the wind will find it.

 

[Azimuth]

What he said ^^^

 

[Carmen Ray]

You can help dry out the top of the soil with a bit of air flow across the top from a gentle fan. That doesn't help the soil compaction of the rest, but you know what does in an organic grow?

That's right, @NickHardy 's worm castings. They're covered in a calcium carbonate slime when they exit the south end of a worm moving north and, according to @Gee64 , the calcium helps open up the soil by turning some soil particles on edge adding to the air exchange.

There seems no limit to the simple worm casting. "Now available at retailers near you!"

The technical term is " floculates" and is often referred to as "tilth" and its actually a magnetic dance between calcium and magnesium. Thats why its ratioed in cal/mag.

When the ratio is correct, and the right amount is used, the soil fluffs.

As calcium drops, magnesium becomes stronger, and does 2 things.

It compacts the soil, and it uses the extra charge it has in calciums absence to tie up nitrogen.

Its natures throttle restrictor. If calcium is low then there is no need to waste nitrogen on a doomed plant so nature chooses to starve the plant of nitrogen and leave all the aminos (nitrogens) in the soil.

Earth worms and common weeds cycle the heavy calcium from down deep in the soil to the surface. Once worms and weeds fix the soil then the nitrogen becomes available again and a seed in the wind will find it.

Thank you Azi and Gee. I am going to try to find some, and fish hydrolysate but I don't know how I will feed it because the soil is saturated already. That solid mass of mud is not drying out. I stuck a skewer into a few places around the pot and it comes out saturated and shiny wet. I do have a fan on the pot, blowing against the side of the fabric bag. It has been 17 hours since the flush and the plant is drooping again. Would a repot be too extreme? I have someone visiting tomorrow who can help with that if it can benefit the plant.