Carmen's Winter Autos With ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro!

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Right, and moving on. The G1 and P1 plants are 22 days above ground. G1 is working on the fifth node and P1 the fourth. P1 is still a tiny plant at only 5 inches tall. G1 has filled the diameter of the pot and despite being in wet soil, is still growing well. I am very impressed with this strain in terms of its vigorous growth also to be seen in the second seedling G2.

G1


G2

P1



Thanks for stopping by!

Happy 4th July to my American friends! 🎆🎇🎆
 
You've pulled a rabbit out of a hat before so I expect a warren here!
I wanted to ask you Shed, when should I remove the first node? Should it be done now so that the plant stops putting energy into those branches?
 
I don't grow auto's either but I think there is some debate as to whether or not 1st nodes are worth keeping. I know @Jon keeps his (at least some of them) and has been glad he did. Seems like one side is often stronger than the other.
 
I don't grow auto's either but I think there is some debate as to whether or not 1st nodes are worth keeping. I know @Jon keeps his (at least some of them) and has been glad he did. Seems like one side is often stronger than the other.
Hi Azi, thanks for letting me know. They do grow differently, with one stronger than the other on the first node. I did remove them though.
Whoa now! Carmen did Shed just figure it out?
Have you been bringing them out from under lights into sunshine without a period of adjustment? If one doesn't "harden them off" they get a look like that and can burn to death.
Hi Otter, I know to harden plants off. The problem is that the soil is too hot for the plants. I will be changing to a different brand next grow.

The calmag seemed to improve the condition of the Parmesan, as the necrotic condition of the leaves seems to have been arrested.

I panic flushed the Gelato because I didn't want the same thing to happen to that plant and also because I thought it had a nitrogen toxicity. That is the plant that I placed outdoors to dry out after the flush. The sun is very cool. It's mid-winter here. There was no ill effect. I just wanted the fabric bag to have a chance to get the breeze and lose some water.
 
Been ages since I've grown autos but if you're not keeping the first node take it off asap!
Sorry I see I didn't respond earlier. I wondered about keeping the stronger of the two little first node branches, and I decided against it this time. I'll wait and see what I'll do with the second Gelato. Thanks Shed.
 
Update time - day 24 above ground

I'll begin with my unhappy plant. Gelato auto 1 was flushed 4 days ago and the soil is still not dry, even with a fan on it 24 / 7. I don't know what to do. Any ideas?



Gelato auto 2 is looking happy enough. I have this plant on a swick on top of a paint tin in between Gelato 1 and the Parmesan auto. I have no idea the PPFD.



Parmesan auto looks a lot better and I have also moved the light closer. It is now 14 inches / 28 cm away from the plant. This plant has variegated and curly leaves. I think Parmesan auto is happy on the swick but I am second guessing myself now. What are your observations please?



 
Not sure about your laundry sitch but you could keep the wet pot on a fresh supply of towels to soak up the water.
That's a good idea, thank you and I had a feel but the wetness is not that much so that it would wick into a towel anymore. I have the plant outside again out of the sun (I will put it in the sun a bit later this afternoon. It's noon now). The plant has already perked up since this morning. Hold thumbs!

 
Not sure about your laundry sitch but you could keep the wet pot on a fresh supply of towels to soak up the water.
That and time. For a swick that has the wicking rope actually going up into the medium you can just disconnect the bottom part from the reservoir and the wick will operate in reverse, helping to drain excess water but that doesn't help with your current setup.

I've got a SIP in a similar situation now so I drained the reservoir as best as I could and am just letting the plant transpire the moisture out. It's taken almost a week but the new growth is finally coming in looking much better.
 
That and time. For a swick that has the wicking rope actually going up into the medium you can just disconnect the bottom part from the reservoir and the wick will operate in reverse, helping to drain excess water but that doesn't help with your current setup.

I've got a SIP in a similar situation now so I drained the reservoir as best as I could and am just letting the plant transpire the moisture out. It's taken almost a week but the new growth is finally coming in looking much better.
Thanks Azi. I've been 4 days and there is a marked improvement today. She's raised the leaves up and even that clawing seems to have receded. Is your SIP plant a photoperiod plant?

All three look fine to me Carmen!
Thank you Otter, I feel much more confident knowing that!
 
Thanks Azi. I've been 4 days and there is a marked improvement today. She's raised the leaves up and even that clawing seems to have receded. Is your SIP plant a photoperiod plant?
It is, but I think they grow the same as autos. My advantage is I can afford the extra week for it to dry out a bit rather than having a limited time clock.

I seem to have over-wet conditions more than most SIP growers and my assumption is that's because I grow in smaller containers and those tend to have a higher perched water table as a percentage of pot height.

That seems especially true for my really small plants like seedlings and new clones. So much so that I now try not to have a full reservoir most of the time until they get bigger with more robust growth. Once they catch they can handle it but if I keep them too wet it just prolongs the time necessary to get to the strong growth phase.
 
It is, but I think they grow the same as autos. My advantage is I can afford the extra week for it to dry out a bit rather than having a limited time clock.
It's that week that I was thinking about. For instance I am really hoping that the shock of this flush is not slowing the growth. That week of veg is crucial in the life of the auto plant.
I seem to have over-wet conditions more than most SIP growers and my assumption is that's because I grow in smaller containers and those tend to have a higher perched water table as a percentage of pot height.
That's a challenge.
That seems especially true for my really small plants like seedlings and new clones. So much so that I now try not to have a full reservoir most of the time until they get bigger with more robust growth. Once they catch they can handle it but if I keep them too wet it just prolongs the time necessary to get to the strong growth phase.
Tell me, how does the volume of the reservoir affect the rate of wicking and wetness of roots? Is it pressure exerted on the wick by the body of water? Will the same apply with a swick?

I am thinking specifically about what @Gee64 said about my plants being too wet in his estimation, and also how many others have had challenges with over-watering on swicks.

I am noticing that the plants in this grow aren't praying hard like the plants in my previous grow were doing and that's down to the watering. The previous grow was on swicks too so I am trying to figure out how to get the plants into a proper prayer stance in my current grow. I don't think that my plants are over-watered to the point of starvation but they are wetter than I'd like them to be.
 
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G1 and P1 are 25 days above ground today, and little G2 is 9 days old.

G1 is still drying out.

I have moved the lights closer to the plants and after 24 hours they are fine so I am going to increase the intensity to 75 % and see how they respond.

I have begun LST. I removed the first node a couple of days ago and yesterday I started tucking leaves. I am gently manipulating side branches to train them outwards.




Thanks for your interest and encouragement folks. Thanks for stopping by and have an awesome weekend!
 
Tell me, how does the volume of the reservoir affect the rate of wicking and wetness of roots? Is it pressure exerted on the wick by the body of water? Will the same apply with a swick?
I think it's more about the height of the reservoir relative to pot height than it is about volume, and, depending on the material used, a swick is likely more efficient at moving water. More efficient means more water moved per unit of time and therefore more of a chance of too much water for a given plant.

But that likely depends on the efficiency of both the wick and the soil.
 
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