SSgrower
Well-Known Member
If the company has stated 11, I'd do 12". Just be vigilant
SSGROWER
SSGROWER
Carmen's Winter Autos With ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro!
- Thread starter Carmen Ray
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #402
Thank you. I raised the lights and raised the intensity earlier, straight after posing the question. I'm watching them closely. There is a big difference between 50 % and 75 %. anyway, they are at 19 inches and 75 %. Let's see.
I’ve been looking over your grow, like you asked and I’m not sure I can be of much help, because I grow autos a lot differently. However on this particular post I would say that with my autos concerning lighting, less is more. I was burning some of my plants and not others. You see I am growing 10 different strains and they are all at different life stages. It’s like juggling. And full of limiting factors. So, the most light sensitive plant dictates my light intensity. All of my lights are set at 40-50%. I slowly dialed them back until none were burning. Now I leave them at that level. My plants aren’t big. I’m averaging 1.5-2.5 ozs but I harvest one every 10 days or so. I grow in coco 70/30 with timed release nutrients, hand water, rotated and inspected daily. It looks like once you get you grow media sorted, you’ll be good to go.
D
- Thread starter
- #404
This is very useful information about the lighting, thank you, and thanks for casting an eye!
I've dialed back the @ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro over the Parmesan auto, down to 50 % and left the light at 19 inches from the top. I think I see some canoeing. If you don't think so, dear reader, I'll dial the light back up to 75 %. Vipar Spectra recommend 100 % intensity for flower, so I am trying to feel my way into that a bit at a time.
I've left the XS1500 Pro over the Gelato 1 auto at 75 % at 19 inches from the top. I think the plant is managing the light alright in this case. What do you think?
I up potted the Gelato 2 auto. That went into a 2/3 Oragasoilux 1/3 mushroom compost blend. That's the last of this soil. Next grow I will change to a different branded soil. Yesterday I fed the plant a dose of fish hydrolysate, bsm, and microbes over ewc as it was looking pale. Hopefully in the new medium it'll green up.
Here is a view of the table top grow. You may notice that my humidity is fluctuating. I have to keep a watchful eye on that. I usually keep it mid fifties but when the weather changes I have to either open up the window or keep it closed depending whether I want to raise or lower the humidity.
Day 29 and still no flower. I'm pleased about that. Veg dear plants, build those branches!
Thanks for the support and assistance folks.
Congrats on the upcan and may its leaves remain that color until harvest!
- Thread starter
- #406
Thanks
I hope so! Actually I rather hope it will green up a bit. I look at other people's dark green plants and wonder why I never achieve that colour. Is it lighting or is it chlorophyll? I know my white balance is out most of the time and I take the pics under the grow lights too. Do you think they could be greener? I think they could be greener.
More nitrogen will make them greener if that's on your agenda!
DV8
Well-Known Member
Theres an inverse relationship with distance and light intensity, in a tent this relationship can be manipulated somewhat, in an open space it will be closer to collary measurement.
Basically the further the distance you place the light source the lesser the strength, but its non linear, even if it seems intuitive to judge it as such.
Basically closer is many factors more intense than further away. If you were halfway between the furtherest point, and the closest point, its not half the value of maximum and minimum values.
What I mean is if 1 is further and 10 is closest, halfway isnt 5.
The easiest work around without understanding that relationship is to figure out what light value you want, and set your light distance to match.
Its kinda important in my work to know about this relationship, but overlooked by most people.
Its also partly why when you turn your light intensity up and down the draw (power) runs a non linear value.
You can though with a variable setting and a small area (input) reduce your setting and distance and have higher values than further at higher settings, at least within the constraints of the parameters.
Basically the further the distance you place the light source the lesser the strength, but its non linear, even if it seems intuitive to judge it as such.
Basically closer is many factors more intense than further away. If you were halfway between the furtherest point, and the closest point, its not half the value of maximum and minimum values.
What I mean is if 1 is further and 10 is closest, halfway isnt 5.
The easiest work around without understanding that relationship is to figure out what light value you want, and set your light distance to match.
Its kinda important in my work to know about this relationship, but overlooked by most people.
Its also partly why when you turn your light intensity up and down the draw (power) runs a non linear value.
You can though with a variable setting and a small area (input) reduce your setting and distance and have higher values than further at higher settings, at least within the constraints of the parameters.
- Thread starter
- #409
Hmm, I had a read and I think I will try a foliar feed of fish hydrolysate, microbes and blackstrap on the G1 plant, but the G2 and Parmesan have just had. They can have more next week. Thanks Shed. I see Alfalfa is good for that too but the soil already has that in it.
That has helped me understand light more. Thank you! I had the Photone app on my Huawei P20 Pro but that went through the washing machine so I am temporarily without that. I think I'll probably go by the book as you suggest. It's this transition from 50 % in veg to 100 % in flower that is hard to fathom. Transition is why I wanted to raise to 75 %. The plants are effectively a month old and will show flower any day now I suspect.
The Gelato is happy with the 75 % and I've left that light at 75 %. The Parmesan seems to prefer a dimmer 50 %. Interesting too because as a sprout she shied away from the light and I had to distance her further from it than the Gelato.
She has misshapen and variegated leaves so I think that might have something to do with it? Idk. I like Otters theory that it may have been that the blast of intense light triggered growth hormones and the roots were not able to supply the plant........ wheeee I am high and rambling I think
- Thread starter
- #410
Rite Of Passage
I think this is when BooWho2 tops her autos. Gelato auto 1 is going into flower.
Are those tiny white things on the top bit eating the leaf? They look like aphids to me. It is possible. The plant was outside for a couple of days. Lol, drama drama drama
Whatever they are, they appear to be relatively contained and I don't see any on the topped plant
One of the things about autos, is that they will grow from any light. Put one in your kitchen window and it will grow.This is very useful information about the lighting, thank you, and thanks for casting an eye!
I've dialed back the @ViparSpectra XS1500 Pro over the Parmesan auto, down to 50 % and left the light at 19 inches from the top. I think I see some canoeing. If you don't think so, dear reader, I'll dial the light back up to 75 %. Vipar Spectra recommend 100 % intensity for flower, so I am trying to feel my way into that a bit at a time.
I've left the XS1500 Pro over the Gelato 1 auto at 75 % at 19 inches from the top. I think the plant is managing the light alright in this case. What do you think?
I up potted the Gelato 2 auto. That went into a 2/3 Oragasoilux 1/3 mushroom compost blend. That's the last of this soil. Next grow I will change to a different branded soil. Yesterday I fed the plant a dose of fish hydrolysate, bsm, and microbes over ewc as it was looking pale. Hopefully in the new medium it'll green up.
Here is a view of the table top grow. You may notice that my humidity is fluctuating. I have to keep a watchful eye on that. I usually keep it mid fifties but when the weather changes I have to either open up the window or keep it closed depending whether I want to raise or lower the humidity.
Day 29 and still no flower. I'm pleased about that. Veg dear plants, build those branches!
Thanks for the support and assistance folks.
- Thread starter
- #412
I'm hoping for improved yields with the XS1500 Pro
PS The white thingies are just ripped flesh I believe. No need to worry about bugs atm.
I'm hoping quadlining is going to get better yields for me...I'm hoping for improved yields with the XS1500 Pro
PS The white thingies are just ripped flesh I believe. No need to worry about bugs atm.
I agree. New growth looks nice! The whole plant does! You're doing great with this!
- Thread starter
- #415
I tried a quadline in my Christmas grow. I was pleased with the result for my first effort on an auto. I don't have a weight in my offsite notes. It wasn't record breaking, but it was an interesting grow and I'm enjoying the fruits now.
Thank you Otter. It's nice to hear that you think that!
Top of the morning to ya!
Keep in mind that greening your plant's leaves with foliar sprays doesn't mean the whole plant is getting more nitrogen, and also, healthy can be a different color from plant to plant as seen in the tents of folks running different varieties side by side. Unless you're seeing an actual deficiency I don't recommend you try to make your leaves greener.
Keep in mind that greening your plant's leaves with foliar sprays doesn't mean the whole plant is getting more nitrogen, and also, healthy can be a different color from plant to plant as seen in the tents of folks running different varieties side by side. Unless you're seeing an actual deficiency I don't recommend you try to make your leaves greener.
- Thread starter
- #417
Okay, I won't obsess about their colour anymoreTop of the morning to ya!
Keep in mind that greening your plant's leaves with foliar sprays doesn't mean the whole plant is getting more nitrogen, and also, healthy can be a different color from plant to plant as seen in the tents of folks running different varieties side by side. Unless you're seeing an actual deficiency I don't recommend you try to make your leaves greener.
Thank you for relieving me of that stress! I did spray already though. I'll think twice about doing it again.
I just want to drop Gee's comment from another thread (from a discussion on Brix, but still...):
Hello Carmen! I have arrived! Finally! Trying to get to you and GDB before I move over to HG's perpetual, which will take me some time to blow through. Just wanted to give you a ding notification heads up so you don't go into epileptic shock. Excited to be here!
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Maybe despise was a little harsh. Let me explain. And this is all pertaining to living soil.
It doesnt really matter what you feed them as long as its a recommended LOS input, and its fully broad spectrum, so within reason you can feed organics pretty easy.
What matters is the myco fungii, because it oversees the management of what microbes mine what foods, and where, and it does it well because it takes orders directly from the plant, aquires it from the correct microbes and gives it to the plant. The plant in turn pays the fungii in sugar, and the fungii pays the microbes with sugar.
If you introduce foliars the plant says "Cool, I don't need to pay the fungii for say nitrogen, because you are using foliar fish ferts."
It works really well but the fungii stops paying the nitrogen crew and the nitrogen crew goes dormant. Then the soil starts to go out of balance.
Now if you hit your plant with 1 or 2 foliars over its life to perk it up then certainly do, once or twice won't piss off the myco, but don't expect high brix unless you foliar forever and be ready to foliar whatever counter measures you need to apply the rebalance the soil, if you choose to ho the foliar route.
It can totally be done but the despise part is purely personal to me, I am lazy and busy. Foliars are a lot of work on a strict schedule. For that reason I despise them. Plus myco works better in LOS.
Absolutely no offense towards foliar feeders here, they are very effective at delivering whatever it is you are feeding.