Brightlight's Strain Fest: Organics & LED

re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

I have been wondering about that since SM-90 and SNS-217 are both essentially rosemary oil as the main active ingredient. I have some Rosemary that I grow for cooking, I have been toying with the idea of cloning it and planting them in future grows and see if they help keep them dreaded mites out of my tent.

I think if you want to go essential oil spray, get it store bought. The one I got from Amazon was better than the health food store. I read where essential oils are hard on a plant so be aware. Try the D.Earth in veg. Actually Im not sure what the answer is but I dont want these fuckers in the tent. Im planting everything but Rosemary in the yard cause thats going to be my essential oil. That and clove. Im treating the tent like they got them already. Ive been experimenting with the D.Earth in flower and of course you dont want to use it cause it sticks good but the Russets hate it. It dosent harm the plant. Wash em at harvest. I think the D.Earth at the plants bottom at least will keep them from crawling up the plant. If my idea dosent work in the tent it will be what Jorge Cervantes tube vid says. If the stuff he uses is Rosemary based than Im already making my own.
BL, the tents full. 8 is enough. As soon as I get the T5's out there will be two to a row. I want to veg to 2' then flip. Your tents beautiful BL. Maybe just 4 big plants next run for me. I also want to do a 12 plant run untopped and only vegged 6 weeks.
Conradino, I saw them at Home Depot. Chocolate Mint and Peppermint. I will be planting a variety next year. I like how you can clone and plant these easily. So just buy a few of each and clone em. I might be building a screend in area for the yard this Nov. if so I plan to plant the mint on the inside and some Mums on the outside. Either way Im waiting for spring.
God of Pot, I wasent impressed with TGA's Pergutory so Im curious with your strains.
I hear allot about hot pepper spray and I have some ground hot pepper powder that needs to be used. That would be good in heavy flower. Hot Pepper and Garlic in heavy flower.
Time to get HIGH BL! Join me 420!!
:passitleft:
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

So what would be a good alternative to dolomite lime to help with ph in peat based mediums and will also supply ca at a better ratio?

Lithothamnium is the best, but unfortunately it's very expensive and in short supply on your side of the pond.
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

So there's a product, Yumi-bio - Lithothamnium calcareum, it's sold it powder form($25 8.8oz) but it's advertised as something to use as a skin care product, I could use this in my soil?
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

So there's a product, Yumi-bio - Lithothamnium calcareum, it's sold it powder form($25 8.8oz) but it's advertised as something to use as a skin care product, I could use this in my soil?

Yes you can it's food grade, you can eat it or give it to your chickens or a dog.
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

It's great mainly due to one thing, it has Ca to Mg ratio of 8:1, which means you can say bye-bye to your magnesium deficiency problems and you don't have to spend money on Epsom anymore :)
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

It's great mainly due to one thing, it has Ca to Mg ratio of 8:1, which means you can say bye-bye to your magnesium deficiency problems and you don't have to spend money on Epsom anymore :)

So this tells me the Cal/Mag stuff I use says 15ml per 5 gal and use it every water which means give it to em!! Dont skimp???
I try to give the cal/mag with the plain waterings but sometimes give less but in this case give enough?

The main question about Doc Buds kit is will it help deter bugs like Russets? Can it be used outside??

Van Stank I was referring to planting mint in the yard but in the tent too, great question.

Happy Harvest Everyone!!! Great Day Too!!!
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

Calcitic limestone is what to use in containers for a more easily reached proper cal/mag ratio.Dol. lime is a def. no...no for containers. Yes ...Docs gear can be used outside.Also Docs kit does deter bugs....its related to the higher brix and the fact we use no blood meal , bone meal or animal fecis.cheers....posting from this phone is such a pita
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

The main question about Doc Buds kit is will it help deter bugs like Russets? Can it be used outside??

Van Stank I was referring to planting mint in the yard but in the tent too, great question.

Happy Harvest Everyone!!! Great Day Too!!!

High Brix levels help deter bugs on all plants, inside or out. But it's important to know why. :cheesygrinsmiley: The main reason is that, given a choice, bugs will go to the plant with lower Brix. They can spot attractive (weak) plants by color, by odor, many ways. It's not so much that high Brix repels them, it's that it's always the less attractive choice. So in a garden of all high Brix plants, the bugs will still eat them - they'll just take out the weakest first. :cheesygrinsmiley:

High Brix also boosts sap sugar and most predatory bugs can't deal with high levels - bad for their digestion. And healthy plants will have a stronger cuticle, making them harder to chew through.

Healthy plants are just naturally less attractive, but given no other choice a population of pests will quickly mutate/adapt and eat your crop up anyway. :straightface:

:Namaste:

[Edit] Heheh, it occurred to me that High Brix is kinda Jedi - "There are no attractive plants here, keep moving"
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

High Brix levels help deter bugs on all plants, inside or out. But it's important to know why. :cheesygrinsmiley: The main reason is that, given a choice, bugs will go to the plant with lower Brix. They can spot attractive (weak) plants by color, by odor, many ways. It's not so much that high Brix repels them, it's that it's always the less attractive choice. So in a garden of all high Brix plants, the bugs will still eat them - they'll just take out the weakest first. :cheesygrinsmiley:

High Brix also boosts sap sugar and most predatory bugs can't deal with high levels - bad for their digestion. And healthy plants will have a stronger cuticle, making them harder to chew through.

Healthy plants are just naturally less attractive, but given no other choice a population of pests will quickly mutate/adapt and eat your crop up anyway. :straightface:

:Namaste:

[Edit] Heheh, it occurred to me that High Brix is kinda Jedi - "There are no attractive plants here, keep moving"
Yup!...Right on cue Gray...with a proper explanation...as usual!
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

It's great mainly due to one thing, it has Ca to Mg ratio of 8:1, which means you can say bye-bye to your magnesium deficiency problems and you don't have to spend money on Epsom anymore :)

What does a magnesium deficiency look like?? Ahhh just kidding... I'm going to leave it at that.

For adding Ca into your soil mix. It's not an amendment we can ADD to the soil after the plant is growing in containers. It will cause all sorts of issues using it that way. Stop the plant growth for a few weeks is one... we don't want that.

You need to add Ca to your soil mix prior to planting in that soil. A few weeks in enough for a fresh mix, by the time the N sequestration is done (from composting amendments in the soil) why we "cook" the soil, the Ca will be OK.

For sources of Ca - there's a bunch in EWC and also in Kelp Meal... my main source is either Oyster Shell Flower, or crab shell meal. The crab shell meal is my favorite, lots of extra chittin and its slow and fast release. An amendment that keeps on giving.

If you think you have a Ca issue during flowering, a cup of EWC and a 1/4 cup of kelp meal in a gallon or 3 of water mix (can aerate) water in...

But again, Ca should be added in to the soil mix prior to planting... I've tried the adding into the pot during a grow cycle as an experiment. It didn't go well.

If your outdoors you can spread Ca around pretty much without worry ... in containers not so much. A little goes a long way.

Gypsum for no PH changes.
Calcium Carbonate to up the PH and Ca but it takes a long time to take effect outdoors.



That red algae... I think Conrad lives near ancient fossilized beds of it, no...??

GT hit it ... healthy plants don't taste as good... the strong survive.

I specially like that part about more sugars is unhealthy for pests. I'm sugar free but I'm still pesty... hahahahaha Oh wait, doesn't affect personality.... I'll keep working at it!

Plants with a healthy immune system fight off pests better as mentioned. Silica is my choice for helping my plants immune system. Horsetail Fern is my go to for silica and Pro-Tekt ... foiler FTW.

BL - you got mail!
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

Looking good in that tent 4D.....but all that open real estate? Jam some more plants in there. :laughtwo:

I love Rosemary con. Wish I knew more on how to use in cooking.

Look nice & healthy GoP. Nice skinny leaves.

Damn Skunk.....f**king beautiful. That looks young still & so caked already. :thumb:


Last family pic. 56 days. Chop started that day.

IMG_369914.jpg


:passitleft: :Namaste:

What's up BL, just dropping by, garden is looking amazing. That tent is a thing of beauty. Nice fat colas . Keep it up
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

What does a magnesium deficiency look like?? Ahhh just kidding... I'm going to leave it at that.

For adding Ca into your soil mix. It's not an amendment we can ADD to the soil after the plant is growing in containers. It will cause all sorts of issues using it that way. Stop the plant growth for a few weeks is one... we don't want that.

You need to add Ca to your soil mix prior to planting in that soil. A few weeks in enough for a fresh mix, by the time the N sequestration is done (from composting amendments in the soil) why we "cook" the soil, the Ca will be OK.

For sources of Ca - there's a bunch in EWC and also in Kelp Meal... my main source is either Oyster Shell Flower, or crab shell meal. The crab shell meal is my favorite, lots of extra chittin and its slow and fast release. An amendment that keeps on giving.

If you think you have a Ca issue during flowering, a cup of EWC and a 1/4 cup of kelp meal in a gallon or 3 of water mix (can aerate) water in...

But again, Ca should be added in to the soil mix prior to planting... I've tried the adding into the pot during a grow cycle as an experiment. It didn't go well.

If your outdoors you can spread Ca around pretty much without worry ... in containers not so much. A little goes a long way.

Gypsum for no PH changes.
Calcium Carbonate to up the PH and Ca but it takes a long time to take effect outdoors.



That red algae... I think Conrad lives near ancient fossilized beds of it, no...??

GT hit it ... healthy plants don't taste as good... the strong survive.

I specially like that part about more sugars is unhealthy for pests. I'm sugar free but I'm still pesty... hahahahaha Oh wait, doesn't affect personality.... I'll keep working at it!

Plants with a healthy immune system fight off pests better as mentioned. Silica is my choice for helping my plants immune system. Horsetail Fern is my go to for silica and Pro-Tekt ... foiler FTW.

BL - you got mail!
It's harvested mostly on the coast of Ireland, so it's easily available in EU. You can get Mg deficiency and I see a lot of it even in High Brix grows. The reason for that is unregulated addition of calcium in soil. There's a strong interaction between calcium and magnesium, one of them is off and you start having problems. So if you keep adding dolomite lime or another source of calcium, but you don't add magnesium to keep it in optimal ratio 7:1 or 8:1, then you're gonna get deficiency, which is actually caused by too much calcium.
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

It's harvested mostly on the coast of Ireland, so it's easily available in EU. You can get Mg deficiency and I see a lot of it even in High Brix grows. The reason for that is unregulated addition of calcium in soil. There's a strong interaction between calcium and magnesium, one of them is off and you start having problems. So if you keep adding dolomite lime or another source of calcium, but you don't add magnesium to keep it in optimal ratio 7:1 or 8:1, then you're gonna get deficiency, which is actually caused by too much calcium.

Isn't dolomite lime a 2:1 CalMag ratio?
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

Silicic acid is more plant ready....potassium silicate needs to be changed/broken down into siicic acid. :Namaste:

So basically silicic acid would be a better form for non organic growers such as hydro since they don't have the microbe population to break down potassium silicate?
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

I read to add 325mg of Aspirin to a gal of water and it helps heal the plant. An immediate stoppage/reversal/healing of the damage thats been done. Dosent make it brand new but helps big time??? What yall think??? Ive got some Russet damaged girls in the yard to experiment with. Aspirin dosent kill the mites just helps heal the plant?? So it says.
The best thing Ive learned this year was my home made ISO wash.
Funny you talk about weakest plants get fucked with first. Typical predator, attack the weakest first.
I was reading about my Bubba Kush pre 98 and it says bug and mold resistant. Does this mean for Russets too???
Great Day!
 
re: Brightlight's Strain Fest - Organics & LED

Isn't dolomite lime a 2:1 CalMag ratio?

Yes... I think Conrad is talking about too much Ca ... its for sure a thing.. has an effect on PH which then locks out other nutrients then disaster happens. Same with too much Mg ... this is for container gardening mainly. Any of this Ca:Mg stuff outdoors in a field has a pretty big margin for error. IN A FIELD - the ratio can be anything from 2:1 up to 10:1 as long as there's adequate volume of each... ratio can be good but volume of each is too low then issues... Ca should be a % of nutrient availability, say 60-75% .... then the ratio Ca to Mg like Conrad said 8:1 is good.

In a container, a 2:1 ratio would soon lead to too much Mg as the Ca gets used up a shit ton faster than Mg. Why round 1 good round 2 no good. Reason for that is the molecular structure of Chlorophyll. Only 1 molecule of Mg in Chlorophyll.

VOLUME of each is also important. The ratio is only good when there's adequate supply of each. This all goes to Cation Exchange Capacity in soils.

Good read on Ca:Mg ratio here :

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...fs/a2986.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1JLxb2ty3WcNhviNREphx9

So basically silicic acid would be a better form for non organic growers such as hydro since they don't have the microbe population to break down potassium silicate?


Try Pro-tetk .... its organic and will work fine in hydroponics... same with Ful-power if you haven't tried them yet.

Pro-tekt - at a rate of 1:750 (1 tsp/gal).

Sorry for all the mumbo jumbo science ramble.. soil is my passion.
 
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