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- #2,381
i like colour
i normally recommend this one on the board, but advise the soil side to ph as low as 6.3 and not the 6.5.
Bluter's Happy Home For Hilarious Hempsters
- Thread starter bluter
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i like colour
i normally recommend this one on the board, but advise the soil side to ph as low as 6.3 and not the 6.5.
That is prettier!
I have some the black and white ones with my coloured markups!
Sorry not meaning to “how to” anything - just a question wrapped up with a suggestion!
Oh - also we’re in Coco but first grow we used Dutch Pro Soil nute blends. Came out 6.5 off the well and out at 5.8 after feed.
Casually tried the same with the Hydro/Coco blend next grow. Nearly killed them all in veg.
As soon as we started correcting to 5.8 all gravy…
How I got looking for those graphs - when & Co fed them 4.2 or 4.4 and it weirdly fixed everything!
Nick
I have some the black and white ones with my coloured markups!
Sorry not meaning to “how to” anything - just a question wrapped up with a suggestion!
Oh - also we’re in Coco but first grow we used Dutch Pro Soil nute blends. Came out 6.5 off the well and out at 5.8 after feed.
Casually tried the same with the Hydro/Coco blend next grow. Nearly killed them all in veg.
As soon as we started correcting to 5.8 all gravy…
How I got looking for those graphs - when & Co fed them 4.2 or 4.4 and it weirdly fixed everything!
Nick
Wastei
Well-Known Member
A drift of 0.6 points in a two week period is acceptable. A slight drift is normal but it should also be hardly noticeable, especially in DTW. It should optimally be no drift at all! It all depends on how much they drift between waterings. If you have to add pH down daily the solution is not stable.
Oh I see you let the pots dry out between waterings? That's your main problem then. If you increase your feeding frequency you can lower your EC and as a result creating a more even curve of pH and EC fluctuations. I strongly advice you to stop with the dryback nonsense in hydro, that's only for soil growers . The result of letting them dry back is high EC spikes, salt buildup, roots dying off and pH fluctuations.
You can't overwater in straight perlite, your job in hydro is to keep replenish the optimal values for uptake in the medium. Optimal values in the medium should be not to wet and not to dry, that's more or less met at a fully saturated medium in your situation. Cheers!
I think there's some confusion between running an actual active hydro res, and hempy which is drain to waste and passive hydro.
They're both hydro so target PH is the same (5.8) but the res in the hempy is so small, you're watering/feeding every other day until you get runoff from the drain hole and not changing the res every one or two weeks. You only adjust the PH in a hempy BEFORE you feed. If the PH is off, you mix & adjust a new batch of nutes and feed until there's good runoff from the drain hole. That's it!
They're both hydro so target PH is the same (5.8) but the res in the hempy is so small, you're watering/feeding every other day until you get runoff from the drain hole and not changing the res every one or two weeks. You only adjust the PH in a hempy BEFORE you feed. If the PH is off, you mix & adjust a new batch of nutes and feed until there's good runoff from the drain hole. That's it!
Damn, he just dropped the mic and walked off stageI think there's some confusion between running an actual active hydro res, and hempy which is drain to waste and passive hydro.
They're both hydro so target PH is the same (5.8) but the res in the hempy is so small, you're watering/feeding every other day until you get runoff from the drain hole and not changing the res every one or two weeks. You only adjust the PH in a hempy BEFORE you feed. If the PH is off, you mix & adjust a new batch of nutes and feed until there's good runoff from the drain hole. That's it!
Well said Mr. Krip,
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Someone growing hydro should consider investing in automation with pumps and feeding lines on a timer. Keeping a stable reservoir is crucial no matter the hydro method IMO.I think there's some confusion between running an actual active hydro res, and hempy which is drain to waste and passive hydro.
They're both hydro so target PH is the same (5.8) but the res in the hempy is so small, you're watering/feeding every other day until you get runoff from the drain hole and not changing the res every one or two weeks. You only adjust the PH in a hempy BEFORE you feed. If the PH is off, you mix & adjust a new batch of nutes and feed until there's good runoff from the drain hole. That's it!
Without any medium holding any buffers the only way to know if the solution is stable is to monitor a reservoir pH stability for days on end. I disagree on the every other day watering and believe hydro should be fed at least daily to stay close to optimal.
if you have big plants using a soilless medium should be every other day in promix or sunshine..
You definitely don't want to water/feed everyday.
Hydro is a big word with moving parts.
And I'm not interested in pumps, I want to talk with them daily instead of being hooked up with IVs in the hospital..
Yep, that's why I'm a coco grower - hydro but no pumps, timers etc
Easy to water from the bottom in perlite like a sip too, but an occasional dunk in a bucket gives them a big kick
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Automation does'nt in any way remove your "communication" or closeness to the plant. It lets someone else do what you otherwise have to do and keep track of? I have a full time job and can't be a gardener on location 24h a day. Cheers!
I'm not knocking it by all means. Folks have to do whatever it takes, especially working full-time..get it!
There is a difference in relationship with contact and vibes.. your plants would appreciate it more.
If I put you in isolation in prison but just feed you with no communication see what happens
Fair shout mate - I retired at 45 so I have plenty of time to devote
If I was still working, an autopot ebb/flow system would be a no-brainer
Respect
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Weird how my plants stays happy, perky and green even though I stay away for a week at time running Aero? Lol! There's so many ways to the finish line and I'm not saying my method is the only method and the best way to go forward.
I can only do me. I'm still learning until my day comes. I just reflect on what I've experienced so far growing Cannabis. I've had years with only problems and no harvest in sight back when I started out. I wish I had this opportunity growing up, it would have saved me a fortune, headaches and problems. Cheers bud and all the best!
All good, and wished I had a watering too system when I was in the work field 30 yrs. But can't compared the two imo respectfully
but think new growers need direct contact with them. Watering system are confusing enough, especially new folksNo disrespect to anyone but I agree with you GG first learn the basic growing and then all the cool devices you can use. Now I grow outdoors and still learning the basics. Growing indoors is so much more from what I read here at 420.All good, and wished I had a watering too system when I was in the work field 30 yrs. But can't compared the two imo respectfully
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- #2,395
hempy was purposely designed to be the exact opposite. i ran passive hydro in the 90's with hydroton and it was almost the same.
there is no res. each bucket carries a res good for 1 to 3 days tops. the ph drifts up through the nute range during that time making all the nutes available.
also i use a nute that really is not ph dependent. i'm contemplating a run without RO or PH in the future as an experiment.
i monitored both ph and buildup a lot closer when running bottle nutes in hempy. other tools such as a f/f/w schedule and planned h202 flush are great to keep it in line if you use bottle nutes.
the drawback to running hempy or coco is it ties you to the grow. i'm leaving for shows tonight which means my pops will have to feed the plants once while i'm gone, and maybe mix the next feed. i just hand him the recipe.
- Thread starter
- #2,396
i ran active hydro for years and you had to be on your toes when stuff changed in that system too. it is possible to lose a grow in 24hrs if something goes sideways and doesn't get caught. i've also seen systems fail mechanically causing floods etc.
I think this makes sense to me and explains “Hempy” to me.I think there's some confusion between running an actual active hydro res, and hempy which is drain to waste and passive hydro.
They're both hydro so target PH is the same (5.8) but the res in the hempy is so small, you're watering/feeding every other day until you get runoff from the drain hole and not changing the res every one or two weeks. You only adjust the PH in a hempy BEFORE you feed. If the PH is off, you mix & adjust a new batch of nutes and feed until there's good runoff from the drain hole. That's it!
We grow in Coco (peat - its all coconut just the nicer bit (we live in a country grows a lot of coconuts!) but its a bit closer to a DWC/Coco crossed with soil because its finer. Holds a bit more moisture. Not Ph fixed - so we use Hydro/Coco blend fert at 5.8 always. Unless maybe a problem.
We have 200L and a 100L fert tank. We make up batched of those amounts and run it to empty. We have to Ph it down every day. It comes out at 6.5 and the nature of Ph Down - it doesn’t change what’s in there mineral wise - it just temporarily lowers it.
Next day gotta lower it again. And remember you lowered 200L with 24ml the day before and actually at the remaining 130L takes 20ml still yet he really the last 60L sometimes needs done - bizarre!
We have literally blue illuminated buttons to start the pump from either res to three outputs.
Timers to feed?
No way. We have 50 plants under lights at the moment. Its a lull.
Still look and check the plants, Ph down. Fouble check - 2 testers every day, BlueLab and the in tank probes.
Timer? Nah man.
That whole process of Ph down takes ten minutes.
Hit the blue button having looked at rhe plants a couple of minutes Check we absolutely want 5.8 - I do up it a bit to 6.1 sometimes ir let a 5.6/5.7 slide if I see something.
“Alexa set timer for 22 minutes. They get about 70L in the flower room off that at about 6pm (two hours before lights out, 21 plants in 5 gallon airpots.
So half an hour my day for 21 plants in flower.
& Co has about 30 in Veg fed off rhe 20”L sane deal but watered by hose rather rhan collars as downstairs next to the fert tanks.
Timers for watering - the absolute laziest thing possible. No one should ever do that. If you need to grow SIP or something.
Hydro its crazy.
Nick
Wastei
Well-Known Member
I dont know what "active" hydro refers to so I'm a little bit lost I'm afraid. Maybe the word you're looking for is recirculating hydroponics? You should optimally have redundancies installed and stay safe as much as possible but it's always better to be at location in person every day.
I still run passive hydro growing in coir. The feeding is just automated to let me to do my other shores and duties in life. I'm a nerd and like to build and automate stuff, thats why I wanted to try out Aero. That's as far as you can take it growing with automated pneumatics. But one things should'nt exclude the other and I'm just as involved and interested in organic farming practices and done things like LABS, IMO's, JADAM's and a wide range of FPJ's for my outdoor vegetable garden.
Think bluter means coco or soilless soil..coco has crazy results but when you have promix very important to let the soil dry. Especially late in flower for trich development.
This is where folks get lost in the whole "hydro" discussion
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- #2,400
active hydro is anything requiring mechanical components to move feed / water, whether recirc or drain to waste.
the coco grow with the spaghetti lines would be considered active.
edit : i ran mostly recirc and active from early 80's through mid 90's, and switched to an hp promix / sunshine #4 soil type for the next 20yrs.