Autos v. Photos - A 5x5 No Rules Fight for Yield: A Jon & NickHardy Gig

I note the fan (electric!) position too.

We all mostly have above but you’re gonna put 4 in a tent like I see people do I’d recommend 2 up top and two down below on opposing diagonal corners.

Better value - and Jon like me grows in tropical/sub tropical ambient conditions - that’s a multiplier on pest and fungal infections.

- didn’t think ai’d miss that, eh buddy?!
If you have a canopy like mine in Florida and you only had two up top and two below you’d have a tent full of mold. I have 9. Moving air mitigates RH being a bit high a lot of times. I wouldn’t trade my fan game for anyone’s.
 
On the fan leaves - I probably (write like) I underestimate their importance by like 10-20% and you probably overestimate them by 10-20%

My guess!
Perhaps. Perhaps not. I’ll go with my way. You do you though Nick! Whatever works for you. I’ve said many times that defoliation is among the most personal of skills - everyone does it their own way. And I have yet to see a white paper that says THIS is the optimal method.
 
Skywalker Backup Plant

Here’s a stacking shot. These colas are gonna be sweet.

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Yep Jon - on that stuff:

9 fans - being in a similar environment get you for most growers, in more northern or indeed much more southern latitudes 4 is probably good?

Mine in the outdoor tents break all the time so I probably use about 9 per grow!

And yep - defol is personal - be boring we both thought the same!

So for various reasons I haven’t looked in my tent for about 48 hours - I never want another 48 hours like those! Though the Eddie Murphy brand of sassy in his pomp he’s welcome to play me in the movie 😂

I thought you were way ahead of me in bud protection seeing those pictures. But I just looked I need to get my shit together - they’ve gone absurd 😅
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I need drink some zen juice, deep breaths and little steps and get the blades out!

Nick
 
So what chu gonna do, mobilize a Thai ladyboy squad? Or maybe you meant bud production in which case, in the words of Rozanne Rozanna Danna, " Never mind!"

:hmmmm:
I just re read it yes production is what I meant but the 420 minutes to edit my post have expired!

There's an article in the international press doing the rounds the last couple of days about a British guy having a dispute with a Thai ladyboy/katoey/transsexual (the latter is never used locally) over the bill. He got stabbed in the stomach for his trouble. Not seriously but still - anyway it happened in the apartment next door to my old one!

Anyway thought the 48 hours is looking like its going to be more like 72 hours I did find time to put our second layer of trellis up, more photos and hopefully I grow a pair and get my defol on shortly. Already culled two plants in another grow (males) today - I'm manning up!
 
Also since it won’t grab the calmag, do you therefore use less?
Using Canna Coco nutrients is adaptable to perlite growing, I add Rooted Leaf Cal/mag Fuel to the Canna nutrients for better absorbing chelated cal/Mag and it works so far. SS I do FF Coco Loco mixed with Canna and dyno-Myco
 
On the fan leaves - I probably (write like) I underestimate their importance by like 10-20% and you probably overestimate them by 10-20%

My guess!
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So from the quote above I made a statement and either a) I'm aiming for 10% less defoliation to hit "goldilocks" or b) I lost my nerve!

Avid readers of my journals... anyone, anyone, anyone? C'mon Ok not even my Ma reads! Anyway we are normally far more ruthless than this but then my wife typically does it. I find it quite hard, "Oh poor plant!" stuff - I'm also much better picking the team than playing, or I like to think so!

Anyway - my plan is probably revisit it tomorrow when my eyes are a bit fresher, even without today/tomorrow likely be another.

The trellis net that some of you may call a SOG/SRCOG or whatever sure it has some useful plant space management aspects and I see growers use them all the time, way more beautiful tents than this will likely be. I'm very much using it for plant support. Seeing the plants fall over with bud weight does honestly get boring and it seem all the silic in the world won't save you from that.

My stretch height worries are over - slow down in the middle there - I'll easily hit the 120cm/4ft out the dirt.

Jon has already highlighted the importance of taking care of the "undercarriages" - especially in warmer and more humid conditions. Totally agree - I've deliberately, however, left a bit more. This grow is being setup to do what we can't always do (we have multiple tents, planning for drying/curing/trimming at volume) which is to do a gradual harvest. Most any home grower can do this, and already do - I'm leaving some fans down there for when the uppers are gone. A fan low down to keep stuff clear I'll put in tomorrow.

I'll also update the stages/dates/seating plan etc then - but really need to revisit tomorrow. "I'm a bit tired right now" not really cutting it, just nearly fell over with weary!

Nick
 
Using Canna Coco nutrients is adaptable to perlite growing, I add Rooted Leaf Cal/mag Fuel to the Canna nutrients for better absorbing chelated cal/Mag and it works so far. SS I do FF Coco Loco mixed with Canna and dyno-Myco
Hey @SSgrower , thanks! I tried the Coco Loco. I didn’t like it. It held the water too long for me compared to the 70/30 stuff and I felt since I was forced to feed less often the plants didn’t get as big. But that’s interesting. It’s a good product, just a personal taste thing. Cyco sells an interesting set of coco mediums I may try. They’re of course all for sale and advertised in the super glossy catalog. Lol
 
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So from the quote above I made a statement and either a) I'm aiming for 10% less defoliation to hit "goldilocks" or b) I lost my nerve!

Avid readers of my journals... anyone, anyone, anyone? C'mon Ok not even my Ma reads! Anyway we are normally far more ruthless than this but then my wife typically does it. I find it quite hard, "Oh poor plant!" stuff - I'm also much better picking the team than playing, or I like to think so!

Anyway - my plan is probably revisit it tomorrow when my eyes are a bit fresher, even without today/tomorrow likely be another.

The trellis net that some of you may call a SOG/SRCOG or whatever sure it has some useful plant space management aspects and I see growers use them all the time, way more beautiful tents than this will likely be. I'm very much using it for plant support. Seeing the plants fall over with bud weight does honestly get boring and it seem all the silic in the world won't save you from that.

My stretch height worries are over - slow down in the middle there - I'll easily hit the 120cm/4ft out the dirt.

Jon has already highlighted the importance of taking care of the "undercarriages" - especially in warmer and more humid conditions. Totally agree - I've deliberately, however, left a bit more. This grow is being setup to do what we can't always do (we have multiple tents, planning for drying/curing/trimming at volume) which is to do a gradual harvest. Most any home grower can do this, and already do - I'm leaving some fans down there for when the uppers are gone. A fan low down to keep stuff clear I'll put in tomorrow.

I'll also update the stages/dates/seating plan etc then - but really need to revisit tomorrow. "I'm a bit tired right now" not really cutting it, just nearly fell over with weary!

Nick
You’re looking good Nick if a bit unruly. Since we’re over the shit talk, truth be told it looks honestly like it’s gonna be close. I still think your grow style is not productive enough per plant to beat a full tent of plants in actual pots, but we will see. That’s one of the main differences we have here obviously. I also think by the time you deflarf the tops of each plant will be okay. But perhaps not enough. It really is an interesting challenge. My brother asked me what the winner gets and I told him of the baseball thing. He’s like - oh. That’s a real bet. So you better win. Lmao!
 
Morning Jo

Morning Jon. Shane from Migro did a video some time back, Dr. Buggy did a video, and just recently, Scotty Real did a video and actually used 800 as a fair marker. Growmau5 did also lonnng time ago, ...
I can't cite the video but I believe that Bugbee says that the LSP for cannabis in ambient CO2 is 800-1000µmol.

I'm surprised that Bugbee would say that 800 is the upper limit in ambient CO2 since there's easily available research that shows that to not be the case, some of it from a former student.

This yield table is from the attached paper.

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This is in contrast to the Chandra paper, done in a CO2-enhanced environment, which shows that the curve of net Photosynthesis starts to roll off at about 500µmol.

Chandra - Cannabis photosynthesis vs PPFD and Temp.png




I have seen allusions to this and, for a while, was conflicted because Bugbee et all argue for more light is better (with caveats re. environment) even though the net photosynthesis curve was dropping. Key point - we're not harvesting net photosynthesis; we're harvesting plant mass and that's why the Frontiers paper is so important.

In the Frontiers paper, the slope of the yield curve drops but it's still increasing at a significant rate.

Per the Frontiers paper, going from an average of 800µmol to 1000µmol, resulted in an increase of 4.3+4.1+4.0 or a bit over 12%.

What's the pain level of, "perhaps" getting that extra 12%? Many grows will not be able to get to 1kµmol but there's still a significant improvement by going from 800 to 850, for example.

My choice is turn it up to 11.

On the other hand, I'm not surprised that Shane at Migro says that, indeed, if you look at the light levels that his light produce, they pretty much max out at that level. That give Shane a material cost advantage - most grow light vendors have lights that will hit > 1kµmol so they need a more light that will do that. A bigger driver, for one. The Migro lights, for example for a 2 x 4 use a 240 watt driver vs other vendors that are using >= 300 watts. This is not surprising to me because I believe that Shane does believe that to be the max PPFD. I say that because, when Shane an interview with Bugbee and Bugbee very nonchalantly talked about 1kµmol, Shane acted surprised. I was surprised by his reaction but it did answer my question as to why he was selling lights that were markedly less powerful than the competition.
 

Attachments

I can't cite the video but I believe that Bugbee says that the LSP for cannabis in ambient CO2 is 800-1000µmol.

I'm surprised that Bugbee would say that 800 is the upper limit in ambient CO2 since there's easily available research that shows that to not be the case, some of it from a former student.

This yield table is from the attached paper.

1708714283523.png


This is in contrast to the Chandra paper, done in a CO2-enhanced environment, which shows that the curve of net Photosynthesis starts to roll off at about 500µmol.

Chandra - Cannabis photosynthesis vs PPFD and Temp.png




I have seen allusions to this and, for a while, was conflicted because Bugbee et all argue for more light is better (with caveats re. environment) even though the net photosynthesis curve was dropping. Key point - we're not harvesting net photosynthesis; we're harvesting plant mass and that's why the Frontiers paper is so important.

In the Frontiers paper, the slope of the yield curve drops but it's still increasing at a significant rate.

Per the Frontiers paper, going from an average of 800µmol to 1000µmol, resulted in an increase of 4.3+4.1+4.0 or a bit over 12%.

What's the pain level of, "perhaps" getting that extra 12%? Many grows will not be able to get to 1kµmol but there's still a significant improvement by going from 800 to 850, for example.

My choice is turn it up to 11.

On the other hand, I'm not surprised that Shane at Migro says that, indeed, if you look at the light levels that his light produce, they pretty much max out at that level. That give Shane a material cost advantage - most grow light vendors have lights that will hit > 1kµmol so they need a more light that will do that. A bigger driver, for one. The Migro lights, for example for a 2 x 4 use a 240 watt driver vs other vendors that are using >= 300 watts. This is not surprising to me because I believe that Shane does believe that to be the max PPFD. I say that because, when Shane an interview with Bugbee and Bugbee very nonchalantly talked about 1kµmol, Shane acted surprised. I was surprised by his reaction but it did answer my question as to why he was selling lights that were markedly less powerful than the competition.
Well hello @Delps8! Thanks so much. This is awesome and an involved post, I appreciate your time. And frankly, as I digest the info you present here I come to the same conclusion. Turn it up to 11. I simply think the 800 thing is wrong, regardless of any charts or graphs or “proof.” As even this info shows, proof is subjective and differs based on goal and philosophy. Amazing info and thanks so much.
 
Another thing that might help: autos almost invariably can handle and want to handle higher light than photos. With photos I’m much more conservative with light. But with autos, here’s my basic numbers if I were to chart them:

- they break ground into an already on light set around 500-600 ppfd. This ensures fast growth without burning and quick development of actual first leave and such. It also makes almost every strain stretch proof. If that makes people nervous just think about a sprout in the wild under the sun. They sprout into numbers at least that high. It’s ok. They like it.
- I gradually bring it up as they make more leaves. You burn a plant when your light level exceeds the plants possible photosynthetic ability, which is a function of leaves and health. A healthy plant generating new nodes can easily handle light increase as they generate. By the stretch I’m usually at around 1000-1100.
- after the stretch and when I have budlets on the colas I again gradually increase light and I will go as high as they let me. Usually around 1300. I find for the way I’m doing it they will often begin to foxtail above 1300, but I have had strains that loved it in the 1400s a few times.

Also - my understanding regarding that max ppfd with co2 thing you said is that with co2 only the strain sets the limit. You can operate hotter and with much higher ppfd once you get it dialed in. But 1500+ is not uncommon although like Nick that seems insane. But standard co2 thinking for home growers I thought was targeting around 1500.

FWIW.
If plants are getting lots of light, they have no need to stretch to get food. Instead, they'll spend that food (the glucose they generate from photosynthesis) on creating lots of small leaves and lots of nodes. Having said that, 500µmol is a huge amount of light for a seedling. Below are the data for my current grow. I was a bit lax in pushing the envelope but got my act together around day 26.

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At 1300, I really have to wonder how big those µmols are. :-)

I say that because being be able to run cannabis at 1400 without using CO2 is really quite something because that is 40% higher the how cannabis generally behaves and is significantly higher than "optimal" rates for non-CO2 environments.

Per the PPFD map below (available here), even at an 8" hang height, there are very few spots in the FC-E4800 PPFD map that exceed 1050µmol.

1708716233674.png
 
If plants are getting lots of light, they have no need to stretch to get food. Instead, they'll spend that food (the glucose they generate from photosynthesis) on creating lots of small leaves and lots of nodes. Having said that, 500µmol is a huge amount of light for a seedling. Below are the data for my current grow. I was a bit lax in pushing the envelope but got my act together around day 26.

1708715804255.png


At 1300, I really have to wonder how big those µmols are. :)

I say that because being be able to run cannabis at 1400 without using CO2 is really quite something because that is 40% higher the how cannabis generally behaves and is significantly higher than "optimal" rates for non-CO2 environments.

Per the PPFD map below (available here), even at an 8" hang height, there are very few spots in the FC-E4800 PPFD map that exceed 1050µmol.

1708716233674.png
I have the 5x5 version of the identical light, the E series. I exceed those numbers by compromising the proximity and deal with the foxtails. Lmao. Interesting chart, you do that for all your grows? And wow, do you do it slow and gradual. I don’t have the patience for that. I begin at 400 ppfd out of the soil. As soon as they have two sets of real leaves I’m at 600, and I work up to 900 pre flip or pre flower (autos). Stretch I’m at 1000-1100 and from there whatever the plant can take. Lol. It’s fascinating to me how many different approaches there are from a large group with a common goal: YIELD. Ha.
 
I have the 5x5 version of the identical light, the E series.
Thank you for clarifying. I might have copy/pasted from a different grow journal. Mea culpa!

Yeh, that's…the big MOFO! That's a very nice PPFD map on that light. Wonder if I could fold it and get it into my 2' x 4' tent? ;-)


I exceed those numbers by compromising the proximity and deal with the foxtails. Lmao.
Pros and cons! I had that in this grow from 2 years ago. Gelatos grown from seeds, same seed pack. I set the main light at 1200± to try to light the canopy. Ugliness ensued. Lots of foxtails before I got my head out of my ass an bought a little Vipar XS-1500


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Interesting chart, you do that for all your grows? And wow, do you do it slow and gradual. I don’t have the patience for that. I begin at 400 ppfd out of the soil. As soon as they have two sets of real leaves I’m at 600, and I work up to 900 pre flip or pre flower (autos). Stretch I’m at 1000-1100 and from there whatever the plant can take. Lol. It’s fascinating to me how many different approaches there are from a large group with a common goal: YIELD. Ha.
"slow and gradual" -those are pretty much the highest values that I've given my plants. I start at "typical seedling level" but I know, for this grow at least, I was "slacking" a bit. I appreciate the comment, though. For my next grow, I'll be more aware of that.

Autos. vs photos - haven't seen a difference. I've done five autos and only a couple of photos but I can't say that I've seen much of a difference in tolerance. I don't constantly push them once I'm at 900-1k. This data is from my current grow. The plant is doing well and I don't muck with it unless I need to. At the moment, it's at 292 watts (330 watt Growcraft) so I can turn it up a bit.

Hah! You talked me into it! I'll see if I can bump things up a bit this weekend!

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Pretty much any LED you buy now has IR I think? UV the jury’s still out. I have a grow curing now, my first grown with UV. Very good sized nugs, hard but then should have been anyway. They say its better for terps and cannabinoid production. I’ll send it for testing and try myself in about 10 days and see what I think.

Nick.
HPS gives off IR, same as heat lamps in the cafeteria. LED's don't give off IR because plants can't use it and because it would tend to heat the grow, like HPS does.
 
HPS gives off IR, same as heat lamps in the cafeteria. LED's don't give off IR because plants can't use it and because it would tend to heat the grow, like HPS does.
Infrared greatly improve growth rate and efficiency of photosynthesis.
 
The heck with PPFD since that's a moment in time. Are you really running a DLI in the mid 80s in flower?
For autos, yes.

The data I posted above is for a photo in day 53, day 6 of flower. DLI is the second set of data, 40-42. I've started a grow journal for that grow and need to do an update.
 
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