Alaskan1's Flo n Gro Mixed Bag Grow

Only thing it's ever been used for is draining and filling. And it;s been in use for a couple of months now with no issues so I highly doubt this is the cause.
But no, I don't cap it.
It's getting it's ass bleached tonight let me tell ya.
Everything is getting a good soaking in bleach
Yeah, do that. Fill the tub with hot water, pour in 3 cups of bleach, and throw ALL tubing, pumps, lines, connectors, air line and stone, and all in there. Dunnow how the bag will handle the bleach, but if it's synthetic, it should be okay as well.

Let sit for 1 hour... Then drain and refill 3 times letting it sit for a minute or five between drains to be sure all the bleach is gone, and rinse everything well.

While it's sitting, break down the Flow-n-Grow as much as you can, and bleach the hell out of it as well. Clean as much as you can everywhere. Connectors, filters, hoses, everything. You need to remove anything that you can't clean and is non-essential to the grow, and leave it out. Move the plants to fresh air while cleaning so as not to asphyxiate them. Think "Operating Room" clean. sterile. sparkly.

The only thing left that can't be bleached should be the plants themselves. Hit them with an anti microbial/anti fungal before moving them back into the cleaned room.
 
Takiing the whole thing apart is just not an option with something this large
I caught it right away so it's not like it has been days stewing. I have hit it twice with the heavy H202 treatment. I may take the plants out tomorrow AM and wipe the buckets out and then wipe them down with a spray bottle diluted with bleach. Then hit them again with the H202 mixture.
 
can you do it all first thing in the "morning"? DAMN! this is a situation in which I wish I was close, if you had to leave or something, I'd come do it all for you, just to see an end to unhealthy plants.

Thank you so much for the support Jandre, that is BEYOND the call of duty my friend.
Just made a pot of coffee as I do believe I will be up all night.
I shut the watering system down for the night so no more water gets in there. Told my wife to be ready to work at 10am.
I just don;t see how I got it. Like I said the res temp NEVER got over 70 and I looked at the roots yesterday and they looked white as could be.
 
Thank you so much for the support Jandre, that is BEYOND the call of duty my friend.
Just made a pot of coffee as I do believe I will be up all night.
I shut the watering system down for the night so no more water gets in there. Told my wife to be ready to work at 10am.
I just don;t see how I got it. Like I said the res temp NEVER got over 70 and I looked at the roots yesterday and they looked white as could be.

Man Oh! Man! A1 Sorry things are not going smooth for you. Glad Jandre is helping you so much. I'll give you moral support if nothing else. Pour me a cup of that coffee. :Love:
 
. . . . "Airstone," he whispers to no one in particular. :rofl:


By the way, does sun ever shine, even INDIRECTLY onto your res or the lines? That could heat things up for a bit.

All black lines, grow lights shine onto the hoses but, you'd have thought if that was the issue that it would have happened sooner. The canopy now covers 90% of the lines.
60 watt bulb shines onto the res from the ceiling. If thats my cause I have issues lol
 
All black lines, grow lights shine onto the hoses but, you'd have thought if that was the issue that it would have happened sooner. The canopy now covers 90% of the lines.
60 watt bulb shines onto the res from the ceiling. If thats my cause I have issues lol
Naw, the sun... not an artificial light... and more because of the heat involved with the sun shining on the res, than just light.
 
Root-rot is a generic term often used to describe roots that are found to have died and rotted away. But what is root rot exactly?

Rotting roots come in two forms; pathogenic and non-pathogenic and it can be difficult to differentiate between the two. However, while one can mean the loss of the plant, the other is simply a natural process that can sometimes indicate ill-health.

Pathogenic fungi and bacteria kill live roots as they feed off them, blocking the vascular tissue that carries moisture and sugars between the roots, branches and foliage, causing the foliage to wilt and die back of the above ground portions of the plant.

Fungicidal spray such as SNS: 244 (Sierra Natural Science is a 420Mag Sponsor) for Powdery Mildew might work. But I don't know about its application to the root zone. Call your hydro shop and tell them that you have a recurring condition, and you need a preventative for root rot and and see what they suggest. They may have something that works well for your climate/zone/location.

You may also have the fungal spores floating around in the air in your area and if this is the case you would have to seal the room and install a HEPA filtration system to reduce the chance of it coming back. Take a look around at the flower beds in your neighborhood to see how many are in a decline in a circle pattern, or from one spot to the other, this would give you a clue.
 
I think this may be the big save...


Heisenberg Tea Summary - Cheap Easy Beneficial Bacteria to Cure Root Issues


Keep in mind while reading that I do not necessarily have any experience implementing any of this.


Why Would I Use This?

* Unless using a sterilizing product (physan 20, H202), most hydroponics solutions will breed bacteria in the water (though low reservoir temperatures slow growth, this is almost inevitable).
* Frequent reservoir changes keep the water clean and fresh, preventing bad bacterias from causing root rot or other problems. Drain-to-waste or ebb&flow systems may have less problems with this, DWC is particularly susceptible.



* Products like Great White, ZHO, Mycogrow, Aquashield, etc.. contain beneficial bacteria (bennies) to inoculate root systems and any porous surface bennies can latch onto (hydroton, container walls, airstones) but are generally expensive.
* By using a combination of only a few of the most diverse/best/cheapest products an EarthWorm Casting Tea can be brewed by aerating a solution for 48 hours using only small amounts of these products to provide a diverse population of beneficial bacterium and fungi to inoculate hydroponic solutions and combat any bad bacteria, allowing for explosive root growth, general plant heath, lower nutrient ppm levels necessary, and higher safe reservoir temperatures.




1.) The parts required:

$6 - MycoGrow Soluble mycorrhizal fungi mix

Fungi Perfecti: MycoGrow mycorrhizal products

Botanicare ZHO mycorrhizal fungi mix

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Zho Root Inoculant | Botanicare

General Hydroponics Ancient Forest earthworm castings

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GENERAL HYDROPONICS: Ancient Forest

- some sort of container

- airpump and airstone, 1W air pump power per gallon of water

The products listed can be substituted for similar items, but the chosen items have been found to be cheapest/best/most diverse. Great White powder and Roots Excelurator are stupid expensive. (Not to mention Roots Excelurator contains anaerobic bacteria and specifically says not to use it with airstones). Most anything containing sugar can be used in place of molasses, it just provides food for the bennies.

These products do have their own dosage and application directions, ignore them and brew the tea. It will be more beneficial and make more efficient use of the ingredients than using them separately.

2.) Combine the following in these ratios:
- 1 gallon dechlorinated water (if tap, let sit 24 hours or aerate)
- 1 tsp (5mL) Mycogrow soluble
- 1 tsp (5mL) ZHO powder
- 3/4 tbsp (11.25 mL) unsulfured molasses
- 1/8 cup (30 mL) Ancient Forest EWC

Small amounts brewed at a time are best as the tea remains usable for 7-10 days after brewing (only if refrigerated to slow bacterial/fungal growth!). If unrefrigerated must be used immediately or the bennies fight amongst themselves and the biological diversity degrades.

3.) Add to container, mix thoroughly, keep temperature 70-80F if possible, aerate for 48 hours.
- unless water pH is way off do not pH adjust before or after brewing
- a biofilm of foam should appear indicating good biological activity
- foam may not appear if water is too cold to 'wake up' the bennies but tea may still function at some level
- certain fungi will 'activate' in the tea but not reproduce and multiply, a small extra amount of ZHO powder (or any product with only fungi) can be added to the tea just before use to add additional fungi (but not at all necessary)
- tea is best brewed at the reservoir temperature it will be used at to ensure the different types of bennies are in the same ratio at the end of brewing as they will be when in the hydroponics system (however temperatures below 70F will not work as well)

4.) Immediately after brewing use tea as follows:
- strain tea using cheesecloth or similar, pour directly on roots, through netcups/hydroton, and directly into reservoir to innoculate the system
- 1 cup per gallon of total system water for fixing problems
- 1 cup per 10 gallons for general system health maintenance
- add a cup or so directly to roots every 3 days or so

Leftover tea can be refrigerated for use up to 7-10 days. The cold will slow down biological activity and keep the population diverse. If tea starts to smell like anything besides "mossy" or "earthy", throw it away. Especially if it smells like shit.

After innoculating hydroponics systems with bennies make sure to dilute any pH adjusters before adding them as the concentrate can kill them (good practice anyway to avoid nutrients being forced out of solution aka flocculation).

OK What Am I Doing?
The idea is that these bennies will destroy any bad anerobic bacteria and causes of root issues, make enzymes (think Hygrozyme), eat dead roots, and assist the plant in the uptake of nutrients and root growth. The molasses is used in tea purely to provide food, it should all be eaten by the bennies after the 48 hours brewing time so none will make it into the hydroponics system if brewed in the correct ratios. Any sugar containing products are food for bacteria and should not be added to hydroponics systems suffering from root issues, it can make the problem worse.

We expect the bennies to start dying immediately after brewing the tea, the idea is that we want them to eat anything extraneous in the reservoir but run out of food immediately keeping the system clean and healthy. This is why a fresh batch of tea is added periodically, to keep the most biologically diverse population of bennies possible and continually replenish them.

TLDR; This is highly recommended for anyone fighting root rot or other issues, pare your nutrient regimen down to the bare N-P-K essentials (remove any extra products that may be excaberating problems) and introduce Heisenberg tea, you won't regret it.

I believe even if a hydro system has no issues the bennies will grow better herb than a sterile system.
 
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