Alaskan1's Flo n Gro Mixed Bag Grow

Very interesting Xlr8.

I did presume added d.o. was needed still in the nutrient bath. As such I based my calculations on his volume, buckets, etc.

I bow to your knowledge of the issue on this style of hydroponics.
 
jandre2k3 said:
Just some input on the Airstone debate... the actual BUCKETS do not need airstones... just the res if you're not getting the aeration you need. A little 160 LPM is all you need though, and a bar stone. $20 total. -OR- If you have a smart<->pet or a pet company (Both are inaccurate, but close hints at the name) they have the pump and stone already for like 14 bucks

Oh, and pull that agitation pump... you'll drop like 2-3 degrees in the res, maybe more, cold = m-good; under 68F is best. And that 70 degrees... it's bad....m-kay...

peace
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You might be right on the agitation pump adding temps, but I've used one with no issues, and haven't noticed any impact on my reservoir temps. Are you sure about it adding that much heat? Mine's cool to the touch in the water and the temps show the same either way...

I guess I'm also stuck thinking that we're looking for a solution in need of a real problem. I don't think the residue is a result of anything wrong... I think his plants look plenty happy, too. Don't get me wrong, I nearly freaked when I ran into this issue the first time, but despite a watchful eye, it's never materialized into anything bad.
 
Bassman59 said:
Very interesting Xlr8.

I did presume added d.o. was needed still in the nutrient bath. As such I based my calculations on his volume, buckets, etc.

I bow to your knowledge of the issue on this style of hydroponics.
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I'm no expert, this is only my second run with it, but I've studied up on this system big and Mr Smith was adamant I didn't need airstones -- and so far I agree. But, like you - I came from DWC, so I was like - are you sure, man?? :)

I haven't had one yet, and no issues. I do have one small waterpump that agitates the solution in the reservoir, but that's it. Mr Smith does neither with these types of systems and you've seen the plants he can grow!


I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to have it, and Alaskan1 must make up his own mind - maybe he does something different than me, and grows nice big plants and then I learn and buy airstones, too ,haha! :)
 
I get stuff floating and growing after 2 weeks without a reservoir change, not a lot but that's when its time to clean her out. I use a toilet brush when adjusting ph daily and scrub the sides of my tanks, it helps. If ya got a lot scrub your sides clean your pump filter run your pump repeat process and tank will clear up some, but this is just a band aid. you need to at least clean your reservoir ever 2 weeks and do a good job of it, pump, stones lines. Maybe some how when your cleaning the res you can flush the buckets back through the main line outside or to another bucket that must be located lower than your system. just some thoughts.

A smaller reservoir is cheaper to run, less nuts, easier to maintain, and the biggest one less waist. loose those 50 gal drums.

I would use one as my fresh water reservoir myself as I use city water and bubble out the chlorine for my grow, and this would make it easier than using 8/2.5 gal jugs this would also allow me to have a large enough res to change both tanks on the same day and or with a large pump and hose I could have it ph ready and use for flushing and cleaning. cheaper than buying water or reverse osmosis

Myself with my set up in the basement and my sump pump is in my bloom room on purpose I did this so that I can drain my system, clean and flush it with out ever having to really completely dismantling the hole unit every 2 weeks. I still remove, my reservoir, pump and air stone but now I flush the plants and buckets with a garden hose and let it run out the sump pump.]

Hope some of this helps
 
Bassman59 said:
Yes, put the 4 airstones I mentioned in the res, not the buckets. I still stand by using the air pump I suggested because of the amount of water in your res, # of buckets, amount of water flow on fill.

imho those pet store bar type air stones are horrible. They easily clog up with the slightest of foreign material, slime up way more than ECOPLUS LARGE ROUND AIR STONE. And they are brittle. I've had 4 break and crumble when pulling the hose off the end to clean.

ECOPLUS LARGE ROUND AIR STONE Goggle it. They are like $3 each.
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Thanks for the replis Bassman, your input is always valued. Currently I think a better way for me to keep the heat a non issue in my res is to turn the airconditioner down a little bit. I've kept it at about 70 degrees but may turn it down to like 66.

Xlr8 said:
Much respect to those who've chimed in, but you do NOT need an airstone anywhere on this system.

It gets more than enough dissolved oxygen without it. The water is circulated and replaced plenty. They don't need much dissolved oxygen if temps are good, and his are.

Excess D.O. can be bad as it can produce a welcoming environment for bad organisms. There is a limit to how much D.O. plants can benefit from.

I still believe that your gunk is mostly a normal by-product of the nutrients you are using and the plants expiring their waste back into the mix. I doubt there is a problem here. Some gunk is just going to happen. Not being there, I can't say for certain, but this is my opinion.

With all due respect to those weighing in, this is different than DWC which definitely needs airstones. Also, this is just my opinion, but I feel pretty confident in my knowledge sources and my own experience. I get this gunk sometimes, too, but so does almost everyone with this type of system I think. Maybe your gunk is worse than I think, but I was pretty freaked by it at first, too.

I just try to get what I can during each weekly res. change and not worry about the rest until I'm between grows when everything gets a heavy bleach cleaning.

If I'm being honest, some of my hoses I never could get the gunk out of after the last grow, so this grow started with some gunky sludgey stuff already in the hoses (I did run bleach through first, but it's stubborn stuff). From day one of this grow and last, things were really healthy and normal at all stages of both grows. Any and all issues I've had were due to my own faults, not the system. Minor gunk has proven to me so far to be no more than a minor annoyance and byproduct of the process. Not all sludge/residue/gunk is bad or due to problems. Some weeks, I have hardly any, some weeks a little, some weeks it's more. Heavier nutrient solutions seem to produce sludgier byproduct.

This is just my take and opinion, please nobody take this as a slight. I think airstones would be a waste of money and effort - just not necessary here. :)

EDIT - I wanted to note, too, that Mr Smith has also been very clear in his opinion on not needing airstones with this type of system. Not trying to name drop here, but he does know his stuff, and has a lot of experience with this type of system. I trust his opinion above nearly anybody's on this site as it relates to hydroponics, personally, and much of how I do things I've gleaned from his experience. I know this is third hand, but I've heard his opinion on this topic so wanted to share that as well...
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If it's good enough for Mr. Smith then it's good enough for me. I can only hope to grow plants like his one day

Xlr8 said:
I'm no expert, this is only my second run with it, but I've studied up on this system big and Mr Smith was adamant I didn't need airstones -- and so far I agree. But, like you - I came from DWC, so I was like - are you sure, man?? :)

I haven't had one yet, and no issues. I do have one small waterpump that agitates the solution in the reservoir, but that's it. Mr Smith does neither with these types of systems and you've seen the plants he can grow!


I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to have it, and Alaskan1 must make up his own mind - maybe he does something different than me, and grows nice big plants and then I learn and buy airstones, too ,haha! :)
Click to expand...

I think what I might do is since I have a couple of the systems I could run a test. One with the pump and one with air stones and make notes on the test!

Ilove420mag said:
hey alaskan, its deege420 hope ya remember me. i got a new name and thread but same outdoor plant... things are looking good hope to see you around again in my journal
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DEEGE!! GREAT to see you here! what the hell happened? New name?

SpaceGhost said:
I get stuff floating and growing after 2 weeks without a reservoir change, not a lot but that's when its time to clean her out. I use a toilet brush when adjusting ph daily and scrub the sides of my tanks, it helps. If ya got a lot scrub your sides clean your pump filter run your pump repeat process and tank will clear up some, but this is just a band aid. you need to at least clean your reservoir ever 2 weeks and do a good job of it, pump, stones lines. Maybe some how when your cleaning the res you can flush the buckets back through the main line outside or to another bucket that must be located lower than your system. just some thoughts.

A smaller reservoir is cheaper to run, less nuts, easier to maintain, and the biggest one less waist. loose those 50 gal drums.

I would use one as my fresh water reservoir myself as I use city water and bubble out the chlorine for my grow, and this would make it easier than using 8/2.5 gal jugs this would also allow me to have a large enough res to change both tanks on the same day and or with a large pump and hose I could have it ph ready and use for flushing and cleaning. cheaper than buying water or reverse osmosis

Myself with my set up in the basement and my sump pump is in my bloom room on purpose I did this so that I can drain my system, clean and flush it with out ever having to really completely dismantling the hole unit every 2 weeks. I still remove, my reservoir, pump and air stone but now I flush the plants and buckets with a garden hose and let it run out the sump pump.]

Hope some of this helps
Click to expand...

Well here are my thoughts on the smaller res.....Think of the res as a lake. During the summer the smaller lakes are ALWAYS the first ones to get warmed up. They heat up quickly and they cool down quickly. The bigger lakes hold the heat OR coolness much much longer. So when I get the temps back down a lil further in my res it will hold that temp longer.

I'm not sure I'd want a smaller res. Granted I could probably use less water and nutes in my res. But, I have also seen my plants use 10 gallons of water in a 24 hr period.

I was teaching my wife how to change the res water and clean everything. I forgot to get her to clean the tubing as I usually do. I have a system down and I was thrown from my usual system lol
We also got the nutes too hot but jandre was kind enough to help me out with that. Plants are looking damn happy right now.

X was kind enough to find me a fiilter that I am pretty sure will do the job I need it to do!

I want to thank everyone for their input. I'm truely blessed to have 420 friends like you who help out when needed. :thankyou::circle-of-love::welldone:
 
ok, have some new updates! Res temp tonight was 66.7
PPMs were 1530
Looks like they have drank about a gallon of water.
PH didn't go up a whole lot. was 5.9 and adjusted to 5.5
Saw new growth in the last 24 hrs after defoliation. Looks like they have finally decided to go vertical!

In the first grow the aphids are BACK so put azamax back in the bubbler bucket. I'm about ready to just toss the two plants out.
 
Alaskan1 said:
ok, have some new updates! Res temp tonight was 66.7
PPMs were 1530
Looks like they have drank about a gallon of water.
PH didn't go up a whole lot. was 5.9 and adjusted to 5.5
Saw new growth in the last 24 hrs after defoliation. Looks like they have finally decided to go vertical!

In the first grow the aphids are BACK so put azamax back in the bubbler bucket. I'm about ready to just toss the two plants out.
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Aphid problems... After the aphids go away, the eggs hatch and they are back.. Need to treat about 2 weeks after aphids "are eradicated" with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to continue to kill the eggs. Systemics only work once they start feeding on the plant.
 
jandre2k3 said:
Aphid problems... After the aphids go away, the eggs hatch and they are back.. Need to treat about 2 weeks after aphids "are eradicated" with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to continue to kill the eggs. Systemics only work once they start feeding on the plant.
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welp they be feeding! the roots look like ass! Since I'm in bloom whats a good product to use? I can't spray with AzaMax anymore.
 
IMHO I would get rid of the plants with RA. You are flowering them now tougher to deal with (again my opinion) plus you have other plants in the same location if I'm not mistaken no need to give them any chance to spread.

SNS 203 worked well for me, I haven't seen any RA. I think I saw a gnat so I will drench them tomorrow.
 
jandre2k3 said:
Aphid problems... After the aphids go away, the eggs hatch and they are back.. Need to treat about 2 weeks after aphids "are eradicated" with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to continue to kill the eggs. Systemics only work once they start feeding on the plant.
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One thing I would like to add is that they can give birth to live females as well. :Namaste:
 
look into neem oil it seems to work on alot of problems
 
HomeMedGrower said:
IMHO I would get rid of the plants with RA. You are flowering them now tougher to deal with (again my opinion) plus you have other plants in the same location if I'm not mistaken no need to give them any chance to spread.

SNS 203 worked well for me, I haven't seen any RA. I think I saw a gnat so I will drench them tomorrow.
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If it were up to me alone I'd just get rid of the plants. BUT, the wife wants to try and save them........Reached a comprimise and will move them out to the garage where it's too cold for them and they will surely die.
 
Alaskan1 said:
If it were up to me alone I'd just get rid of the plants. BUT, the wife wants to try and save them........Reached a comprimise and will move them out to the garage where it's too cold for them and they will surely die.
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What a mean man! :smokin2: She'll be going to bed without you again. :Love:

Thanks for reminding me of AzaMax.......got to put some in the vintage I hid behind the shed, :MoreNutes:
 
OldMedMan said:
What a mean man! :smokin2: She'll be going to bed without you again. :Love:

Thanks for reminding me of AzaMax.......got to put some in the vintage I hid behind the shed, :MoreNutes:
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I truely don't mean to be mean lol
But, that being said these plants are like in their 7th week of flower and I'm not seeing any progress. The aphids coupled with root rot battles I just think it's a waste to pour more time, effort and nutes into something thats just not going to turn out. At this point I think even getting any kind of "decent' bubble hash is out of the question.
I hate giving up. Kills me to do so but I have to be realistic. And my wife hates that about me I call a spade a spade.
 
Gentlemen may I suggest... I have never had the problem, but my thoughts are..
Apply Diatomaceous earth, as it can also be applied in a foliar, but must dry before it is effective. One can dust the plant with a common garden duster as well.

What insects can DE be used for?
Diatomaceous Earth may be used as a barrier to control adult flea beetles, sawfly, coddling moth, twig borer, thrips, mites, cockroach, slugs, snails and many other insects such as: Aphids, thrips, earwigs, silverfish, fungus gnats, and ants.

How does it work?
To insects DE is a lethal dust with microscopic razor sharp edges. These sharp edges cut through the insect's protective covering drying it out and killing them when they are either dusted with DE or if it applied as a wettable powder spray. If they ingest the DE it will shred their insides.

Just a thought, its 100% natural and safe around pets as long as you have the fine powdered food grade. There is a thread in the FAQ on Diatomaceous Earth.
 
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