Organic..H.B. Cannabis...there is no substitute.
Cheers 36....have an awesome night Gang.
Cheers 36....have an awesome night Gang.
36Gr0w's First Journal - Hi-Brix - LOS - Indoor & Out!
- Thread starter 36Gr0w
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #982
For sure Duggs, that's one joy of growing our own, we know what we put in or sprayed on it.
How are you liking the Mazar these days?
How are you liking the Mazar these days?
Dennise
Well-Known Member
Hey 36G...ya, the mazar is tasting really nice. I'm very,very happy with it. I'm literally hiding from friends who will do almost anything for it.Thanks for asking btw 36. Have a great day bud and don't forget to vote in this month's contests.....
- Thread starter
- #986
Nice pics 36G....smokable for sure!
- Thread starter
- #988
I'm glad to hear you are enjoying the Mazar Duggs. What kind of smells and flavors are you getting now?
I was really hoping for that "piney" taste to come thru,and it has. The smoke from a J is so smooth and soft it's sooo nice 36. Has a really clear ,up buzz....more so than the MK Ultra was/is. It's been curing for about 4 weeks now ,so it's way better than it was off the wire.Cheers 36 and thanks for asking bud.
Dutty Panty
New Member
You grow that 36. When you crop? That looks nice. Great job!!!! High brix vs house and garden taste test is ready.
- Thread starter
- #991
Yeah that's the purple nug with different lighting.
- Thread starter
- #992
Statement about Nectar for the Gods organic nutrient line.
Interesting info on force feeding and pH'ing an organic liquid nutrient line.
This will help the discussion. Here is an excerpt from an email discussion I had with Scott D Ostrander a couple years ago about NFTG as I was making the switch. Sorry for the length, but it's good shit. Lots of other good tidbits for other discussions as well.
Me: "I have always been a firm believer in relying on my soil and beneficials to buffer/regulate the pH of my rhizosphere and not needing to pH my nutrient solution prior to giving it to my plants. I recently had a conversation with a clerk at a local garden supply store about your nutrients. The conversation went into a discussion about pH'ing. The clerk told me that despite this practice in organics, I would HAVE to pH when using your nutrients due to being a calcium derived nutrient. This didn't quite make sense to me. That, or I just didn't really understand what the clerk was saying. So, my question is, is pH'ing your nutrient solution indeed that crucial when dealing with an organic soil and religiously inoculating with beneficials, or am I still able to be confident in my rhizosphere's ability to buffer/regulate the pH? Also, could you elaborate on the clerk's statement of being a calcium derived nutrient?"
Scott: "pH'ing is critical with our line. What we do here in our manufacturing facility is digest all the nutrients ourselves with organic acids and enzymes. When we do this we make organic meals such as feathers, bone, alfalfa, soybean, fish bone etc etc into totally available nutrients through enzymatic digestion. After it has been completely digested and ready to bottle, we drop the pH of the solution with acids like Fulvic, Humic, Citric, carbolic etc etc to stabilize it so microbes can not thrive in the concentrate. All the other organic nutrients in our industry use salts to preserve and that allows them to bottle at higher pH's but the nutrients are not nearly as available to the plants. Also when there are high levels of salt available to the plants, they will take the sodium in first because it is the easier food source. The rest of their solutions need to be digested by microbial activity in the medium to make them available for the plants consumption. The downfall of salt preservation is that it often causes lock outs and deficiencies. When the roots stomata take in a salt crystal, it often plugs the roots stomata slowing down nutrient availability. We often recognize this as a Magnesium deficiency (brown tips, curling leaves, razor edges). When this happens most stores petal Cal /Mag products on the gardeners to offer up more magnesium to the plant. Its a quick fix, but not sustainable. Cal/Mag in our industry is Calcium Nitrate and Magnesium Nitrate with iron EDTA. These form of nitrogen and iron quickly green plants up but encourage the reproduction of powdery mildew, bud mold etc. See, Nitrogen in a nitrate salt form is a high energy water molecule. When you force water into the fruiting bodies it can create flower issues like rot our mold, also being a high energy molecule it creates a hot water plant increasing the infrared signature for bugs to see. Magnesium is a heavy metal, and if you've ever had finished product snap crackle and pop when consuming it, then you have used to much magnesium. Magnesium, in it's pure form, is a flammable metal and when you pump to much of it into your fruit you can experience the flammability when consuming it.
Why we are a calcium based nutrient line? Here is the rough science behind this. Our industry is really big on N-P-K. All these elements that have very few bonding points for other elements to attach to. So for years we just grow really big plants that have really big fruit on the vine until we harvest. After harvest and we hang our produce, we have all noticed how it shrinks. When it shrinks it looses its weight and solid feeling aspect of the fruit. This is because all those water molecule we have been pumping into the fruit has now evaporated away and now the flavor of the fruit taste like field straw, or mowed lawn. Kind of a chlorophyl flavor.
We take advantage of the natural science and chemistry of the soil structure. Calcium has many bonding spots as a molecule and calcium in every form is a considered a rock (mineral). Because Calcium has so many bonding points it has the ability to attach to almost all of the elements on the periodic table. With that being said, we have found that not only does calcium attach to everything creating complex compounds but it also acts as a natural chelator. If a soil has coir fiber (coco peat) in its blend then it is rich in magnesium and potassium. Any of our calcium that doesn't directly go into the plant will then create a bond with the coir fiber and wait to be consumed by a fungi or bacteria form. When that microbe consumes the calcium as a meal then it releases a natural and buffered form of magnesium or potassium in a consumable form for the plant. Naturally digested forms will not create the popping in the finished product.
Also, calcium will increase the cation exchange capacity in your soil creating a more favorable digestive field for your microbial populations
Calcium, being a rock, will remain a rock in the plants fruiting bodies. The more calcium we can get into the fruit, the larger the fruit will be. And the best part is when you cut and hang calcium grown plants, rocks don't evaporate. That is why, on the feeding schedule we flush up to the last day with Herculean Harvest (Liquid Bones) Aphrodite's Extraction (digested milk sugars from milk fat) and Olympus Up (micronized Limestone). All these forms of rock will increase the flavors, aromas and overall density of the fruit.
Another cool thing about calcium is that if you feel you are running into a deficiency, then we first recommend a bone meal flush at a rate of 2 TBLS per gallon, pH adjusted to 6.4-6.5. Calcium from bones tie up salts in the medium and create a usable compound for microbes to consume. When the microbe consumes and discards the digested waste, they convert the sodium molecule into a usable protein or enzyme for the plant to absorb. So once a salt, now becomes a digested protein.
You are right to think that organics in most instances, the pH is not so critical especially if you are amending a garden with meal forms of the products. The digestion is slow so they are able to buffer in the rhizosphere naturally. Being that we have anywhere from 12 -20+ weeks in a small container, we don't have the luxury of quick responding organics in meal forms as our only nutrient inputs. So offering a pre-digested organic nutrient to the plant with a back up of nutrients that create bonds with other elements in the soil creating a second, longer term feed gives us a bang bang feed affect."
Interesting info on force feeding and pH'ing an organic liquid nutrient line.
This will help the discussion. Here is an excerpt from an email discussion I had with Scott D Ostrander a couple years ago about NFTG as I was making the switch. Sorry for the length, but it's good shit. Lots of other good tidbits for other discussions as well.
Me: "I have always been a firm believer in relying on my soil and beneficials to buffer/regulate the pH of my rhizosphere and not needing to pH my nutrient solution prior to giving it to my plants. I recently had a conversation with a clerk at a local garden supply store about your nutrients. The conversation went into a discussion about pH'ing. The clerk told me that despite this practice in organics, I would HAVE to pH when using your nutrients due to being a calcium derived nutrient. This didn't quite make sense to me. That, or I just didn't really understand what the clerk was saying. So, my question is, is pH'ing your nutrient solution indeed that crucial when dealing with an organic soil and religiously inoculating with beneficials, or am I still able to be confident in my rhizosphere's ability to buffer/regulate the pH? Also, could you elaborate on the clerk's statement of being a calcium derived nutrient?"
Scott: "pH'ing is critical with our line. What we do here in our manufacturing facility is digest all the nutrients ourselves with organic acids and enzymes. When we do this we make organic meals such as feathers, bone, alfalfa, soybean, fish bone etc etc into totally available nutrients through enzymatic digestion. After it has been completely digested and ready to bottle, we drop the pH of the solution with acids like Fulvic, Humic, Citric, carbolic etc etc to stabilize it so microbes can not thrive in the concentrate. All the other organic nutrients in our industry use salts to preserve and that allows them to bottle at higher pH's but the nutrients are not nearly as available to the plants. Also when there are high levels of salt available to the plants, they will take the sodium in first because it is the easier food source. The rest of their solutions need to be digested by microbial activity in the medium to make them available for the plants consumption. The downfall of salt preservation is that it often causes lock outs and deficiencies. When the roots stomata take in a salt crystal, it often plugs the roots stomata slowing down nutrient availability. We often recognize this as a Magnesium deficiency (brown tips, curling leaves, razor edges). When this happens most stores petal Cal /Mag products on the gardeners to offer up more magnesium to the plant. Its a quick fix, but not sustainable. Cal/Mag in our industry is Calcium Nitrate and Magnesium Nitrate with iron EDTA. These form of nitrogen and iron quickly green plants up but encourage the reproduction of powdery mildew, bud mold etc. See, Nitrogen in a nitrate salt form is a high energy water molecule. When you force water into the fruiting bodies it can create flower issues like rot our mold, also being a high energy molecule it creates a hot water plant increasing the infrared signature for bugs to see. Magnesium is a heavy metal, and if you've ever had finished product snap crackle and pop when consuming it, then you have used to much magnesium. Magnesium, in it's pure form, is a flammable metal and when you pump to much of it into your fruit you can experience the flammability when consuming it.
Why we are a calcium based nutrient line? Here is the rough science behind this. Our industry is really big on N-P-K. All these elements that have very few bonding points for other elements to attach to. So for years we just grow really big plants that have really big fruit on the vine until we harvest. After harvest and we hang our produce, we have all noticed how it shrinks. When it shrinks it looses its weight and solid feeling aspect of the fruit. This is because all those water molecule we have been pumping into the fruit has now evaporated away and now the flavor of the fruit taste like field straw, or mowed lawn. Kind of a chlorophyl flavor.
We take advantage of the natural science and chemistry of the soil structure. Calcium has many bonding spots as a molecule and calcium in every form is a considered a rock (mineral). Because Calcium has so many bonding points it has the ability to attach to almost all of the elements on the periodic table. With that being said, we have found that not only does calcium attach to everything creating complex compounds but it also acts as a natural chelator. If a soil has coir fiber (coco peat) in its blend then it is rich in magnesium and potassium. Any of our calcium that doesn't directly go into the plant will then create a bond with the coir fiber and wait to be consumed by a fungi or bacteria form. When that microbe consumes the calcium as a meal then it releases a natural and buffered form of magnesium or potassium in a consumable form for the plant. Naturally digested forms will not create the popping in the finished product.
Also, calcium will increase the cation exchange capacity in your soil creating a more favorable digestive field for your microbial populations
Calcium, being a rock, will remain a rock in the plants fruiting bodies. The more calcium we can get into the fruit, the larger the fruit will be. And the best part is when you cut and hang calcium grown plants, rocks don't evaporate. That is why, on the feeding schedule we flush up to the last day with Herculean Harvest (Liquid Bones) Aphrodite's Extraction (digested milk sugars from milk fat) and Olympus Up (micronized Limestone). All these forms of rock will increase the flavors, aromas and overall density of the fruit.
Another cool thing about calcium is that if you feel you are running into a deficiency, then we first recommend a bone meal flush at a rate of 2 TBLS per gallon, pH adjusted to 6.4-6.5. Calcium from bones tie up salts in the medium and create a usable compound for microbes to consume. When the microbe consumes and discards the digested waste, they convert the sodium molecule into a usable protein or enzyme for the plant to absorb. So once a salt, now becomes a digested protein.
You are right to think that organics in most instances, the pH is not so critical especially if you are amending a garden with meal forms of the products. The digestion is slow so they are able to buffer in the rhizosphere naturally. Being that we have anywhere from 12 -20+ weeks in a small container, we don't have the luxury of quick responding organics in meal forms as our only nutrient inputs. So offering a pre-digested organic nutrient to the plant with a back up of nutrients that create bonds with other elements in the soil creating a second, longer term feed gives us a bang bang feed affect."
Dutty Panty
New Member
Nectar of the gods is no joke. I tried it same time as my Budswell and medione combo with extra potash it rocks. Notg is great. Just not my main choice.
- Thread starter
- #994
I've seen great results from the nectar line, not what I want to do but interesting anyways.
Dutty Panty
New Member
I still believe my friend even though you don't based on profit in commercial applications container growing is the best option, period. And not that it can't be even I also believe organic is harder and more to knot up and requires more time. But if your in a small application go for it.
Dutty Panty
New Member
Its not bad Jake there had me try a sample line I like it just not the yield. Your doing good man quit messing with it you know what works for you
Hey you need kale or beets. I'll toss otherwise
Hey you need kale or beets. I'll toss otherwise
- Thread starter
- #997
Long beds of soil that can not only be used for years, but always gets better is what I picture. No moving or filling pots, no soil "cooking" in tubs. Continuous growing above and below ground. Minimal work for maximum gains. I'm all about efficiency. I'll show you some pics in a few days off forum of the general idea being put into action in a t3.
- Thread starter
- #998
Too many beets already, and I don't like them. Don't know what Kale actually is but I have some growing too. Hen Solo may like a tasty treat though.
Dutty Panty
New Member
They need to head 40 degrees south closer to the equator for optimal efficiency
- Thread starter
- #1,000