- Thread starter
- #881
thanks for the support brother!Its been a minute since I stopped by. Had to say HIGH and show some support. Great job Brother
do you have a D.I.Y. for on the filter you made? if so can you post a link?
1080w LED Inferno
- Thread starter IrishBoy
- Start date
do you have a D.I.Y. for on the filter you made? if so can you post a link?
- Thread starter
- #882
maybe some of you guys can help me on this question i have?
i just bought some 29% H2O2. i was wondering do i add it to my res before adding the nutes to feed? if so how long before? or can i add it after i mix my nutes?
i just bought some 29% H2O2. i was wondering do i add it to my res before adding the nutes to feed? if so how long before? or can i add it after i mix my nutes?
crazy horse
New Member
i think if h202 puts your ph up you need to add it first and if it takes ph down it goes in last. not 100% sure though!!
vipers
New Member
I got the 3% Irish so I relaly don't know what you would do with that high powered stuff. I would ph adjust after it's intruduction though. .V.
H2O2 should be the very last thing you add before checking the pH (and adjusting if necessary).
Think of it as being slightly unstable - because in use, it is. If you could test for the concentration of H2O2 in your reservoir I guarantee that you'd see a noticable difference just a couple hours after your initial mix - and that it would be gone within 24 hours (in the concentrations that we'd be dealing with).
You can therefore add small amounts every day. Just don't drop the bottle in, lol.
Think of it as being slightly unstable - because in use, it is. If you could test for the concentration of H2O2 in your reservoir I guarantee that you'd see a noticable difference just a couple hours after your initial mix - and that it would be gone within 24 hours (in the concentrations that we'd be dealing with).
You can therefore add small amounts every day. Just don't drop the bottle in, lol.
lavendar
New Member
no, it seems im drifting toward a.n. the marijuana college im going to gives you a starter set when you attend, waiting on mine....and i already have shifted alot of my nutz over, like jumpstart, overdrive, budkandy and a few more....i do really like fox farm tho....and that protekt is wonderful stuff...and that dark force is awesome...but the smell is killer, but even the hubby is getting used to it now...i think our noses have just burnt out...lol...lavendar
- Thread starter
- #888
thats what i was thinking, then i read a few threads and some where saying this
The general idea is to let the hydroponics sytem circulate the hydrogen peroxide solution for about a half hour to let the peroxide work against pathogens and to let the solution stabilize before adding your nutrients.
their saying letting it run for a 1/2 hour it will kill all the bad stuff in my tap water, witch makes sense.
but you way also makes sense. i am afraid its gonna mess up my nutes and stuff adding it before.
- Thread starter
- #889
is it the school where Edd is teaching? ive notice they went from DM to AN. I for one dont like AN and ive seen many many side by sides and GH won every time for a whole lot less.
the main thing i dont like about AN is that they make 50 different products just to make money, when they could add allot of those products to one bottle. ive notice they and just starting to do that now because people realized they were getting riped off.
Ive never used it but thats because all the side by side ive seen..lol.. just an heads up for you
Here is a link to my journal when I made it.
PhotoTron Grow with Ebb N Flow
I found the instructions elsewhere on the net. Googling "DIY carbon scrubber" will find many. I got my carbon from Carbon Activated Corporation and used the coconut shell 4 x 6 sized carbon pieces.
Carbon Activated Corporation
- Thread starter
- #891
thank you. ive seen the DIY i was just trying to keep the links within 420mag so others can seen it done. thanks ill give it a look
Hmm. I keep forgetting that you are not using this for maintenance purposes but to kill the invaders. (By "bad stuff in my tap water," I'm assuming that you mean bad stuff in your system and not actually in your municipal water-supply?
)Considering that, what I'd do if it were me playing in your attic would be to just hose everything possible with H2O2 (not straight at ~30%, although I could not speak on the likelihood of incurring plant fatalities in doing so; I just don't feel that that strength would be required by a fair margin), rinse everything off, then mix up a fairly strong H2O-H2O2 solution without bothering with pH-adjusting - since you are chiefly concerned with entities external to the plant - and run it for up to a half-hour, then drain, rinse, and refill as per normal and add your H2O2 as a supplement. If you didn't get all the crap killed/rinsed you might still see some pH-shifting but you might as well balance it soon after doing up the reservoir. A half-hour afterwards is not too long to wait though if you expect further shifting. The plants will not suffer any real harm in the meantime (they might wilt a bit if you add silicone and it spikes but they would (should) bounce back after straightening.
IDK. My med schedule has gotten messed-up over the past few days and I'm hitting the nighttime mental low in the cycle. I'm blaming the pshrinks. So... Do what appears to make the most sense to you. Don't go away for a day afterwards to ensure that if you have to adjust or even replace, you will be able to do so. You're smart and attentive enough and your plants should come through with less stress than the grower will encounter
.
- Thread starter
- #893
Hmm. I keep forgetting that you are not using this for maintenance purposes but to kill the invaders. (By "bad stuff in my tap water," I'm assuming that you mean bad stuff in your system and not actually in your municipal water-supply?
Considering that, what I'd do if it were me playing in your attic would be to just hose everything possible with H2O2 (not straight at ~30%, although I could not speak on the likelihood of incurring plant fatalities in doing so; I just don't feel that that strength would be required by a fair margin), rinse everything off, then mix up a fairly strong H2O-H2O2 solution without bothering with pH-adjusting - since you are chiefly concerned with entities external to the plant - and run it for up to a half-hour, then drain, rinse, and refill as per normal and add your H2O2 as a supplement. If you didn't get all the crap killed/rinsed you might still see some pH-shifting but you might as well balance it soon after doing up the reservoir. A half-hour afterwards is not too long to wait though if you expect further shifting. The plants will not suffer any real harm in the meantime (they might wilt a bit if you add silicone and it spikes but they would (should) bounce back after straightening.
IDK. My med schedule has gotten messed-up over the past few days and I'm hitting the nighttime mental low in the cycle. I'm blaming the pshrinks. So... Do what appears to make the most sense to you. Don't go away for a day afterwards to ensure that if you have to adjust or even replace, you will be able to do so. You're smart and attentive enough and your plants should come through with less stress than the grower will encounter
its the pathogens in my tap water that cause root rot right? so if i kill them before i feed my girls then that should help the girls from getting root rot in these temps? or is it the other way around and you want the more constrated H2O2 in my root zone? all i want to do is make sure i prevent root rot.
I also read that if you add H2O2 to healthy roots it can harm them?
what i was thinking is once i go into bloom and i add my Green fuse witch is 100% organic i am afraid the H2O2 will mess with it, so i was thinking i would just add the H2O2 every 3rd watering with just plain water to help kill the bad stuff in my roots? i water about every 2-3 days. what you think about that idea?
i e-mailed the H2O2 company and asked them also.
The Builder
New Member
Irish,
I was looking over completed journals and came across yours with the 600 and I just wanted to say congrats with the yield. Also, just wondering how much the air temps have gone up with the (3) 360 watt units as compared to just the single 600? I would think it wouldn't be too much.
I was looking over completed journals and came across yours with the 600 and I just wanted to say congrats with the yield. Also, just wondering how much the air temps have gone up with the (3) 360 watt units as compared to just the single 600? I would think it wouldn't be too much.
You really have pathogens in your tap water? I thought mine was bad - but all it's got are a few hundred ppms of calcium and other junk and enough chlorine to choke a horse (and DEFINITELY enough to kill any/all pathogens in it, lol). I'd contact your water company immediately if it's got stuff living in it?
Or do you have a (contaminated) well instead of a municipal water source? If so, and if the situation is not from an ongoing problem, you could probably sterilize it. Would be a RPitA but might keep you from getting something inside you from the water.
- Thread starter
- #896
i am not sure haven't used the 3rd light yet waiting for flowering to fire her up. right now the two 300's is more then enough light for my girls. ill let you know when i fire it up
i doubt i do my water smells like straight chlorine. ive never had my water tested or talked to the water company, all i know is the water nasty over here and i wouldn't ever drink it out the tap.lol
Municipal water systems should not have pathogens in the water. That is why they add chlorine, chloramine, use UV treatments, etc. Check with your local water district. They will have a website or document that goes into detail what is in your water. Municipal water systems in the US are highly regulated and are safer than bottled water that is bought in the store. You read that right ... bottled water companies are not nearly as regulated and there have been reports of bacteria in bottled water before. Here is one of many articles that have come out on this.
Some bottled water toxicity shown to exceed law - SFGate
For H2O2 uses, a good reference is CannaStats.
CannaStats - H2O2 Uses and Dilutions
Some bottled water toxicity shown to exceed law - SFGate
For H2O2 uses, a good reference is CannaStats.
CannaStats - H2O2 Uses and Dilutions
vipers
New Member
Munki, thanks for the charcoal heating tips. .V.
crazy horse
New Member
h202 is another thing i change my mind about all the time, so many conflicting reports on it....
"From what i read in a Urban grower magazine, peroxide is not all its cracked up to be.
Keeping your res. cool works much better than using peroxide. I read it damages the roots somewhat, which would make them weaker to the next invasion of bacteria if you had by chance not used enough to kill everything. Obviously it will kill the viruses and bacteria that cause root rot, but good hydroponics practices would prevent this all together. From the same article that mentioned the root damage, the author also mentioned that the oxygen released by the peroxide into your res is not in a form that is readily taken up by the roots. (never heard this before!)
Also, if you have a hydro setup that implements beneficial bacteria, this would obviously not be an option, as the peroxide would wipe them out as well, the same goes for soil".
"From what i read in a Urban grower magazine, peroxide is not all its cracked up to be.
Keeping your res. cool works much better than using peroxide. I read it damages the roots somewhat, which would make them weaker to the next invasion of bacteria if you had by chance not used enough to kill everything. Obviously it will kill the viruses and bacteria that cause root rot, but good hydroponics practices would prevent this all together. From the same article that mentioned the root damage, the author also mentioned that the oxygen released by the peroxide into your res is not in a form that is readily taken up by the roots. (never heard this before!)
Also, if you have a hydro setup that implements beneficial bacteria, this would obviously not be an option, as the peroxide would wipe them out as well, the same goes for soil".
vipers
New Member
So let me wrap my head around this... tap comes out with clorine and such so as to be free of bacteria but after it's allowed to sit and bubble, the clorine will dissapate and if the heat is high pathogens will collinate and multiply. Before long there's the slime and pythium issues that come up? Is that how is works? .V.