1080w LED Inferno

irishboy said:
Dog you order a 300w right? if so are you going to do 12/12 from the start? if so you have to keep me posted for sure on this.
Click to expand...

Yes I do 12/12 from the start w/fem hashberry seeds my group and I have made.. Just like you said, only one area needed.. You just get less meds per plant because of lack of veg time.. But from a seed there is actually some veg time.. The reason for this is. Seeds can't flower until they build the adult flowering genes.. So even though the seed starts it's life under 12/12 lighting, they can't flower until the adult gene is built.. For the most part I found that it takes most strains I've played with (doing 12/12 from a seed) 3 to 4 weeks until you start seeing white hairs (adult flowering genes present). So technically the seeds veg under 12/12 for aprox 3-4 weeks.

Flowering a clone just after it establishes a good root system is slightly different.. The clone already has the adult gene, so the clone will start to flower as soon as it goes under 12/12.. So for that reason most growers veg clones aprox a week before going 12/12.. Just to get a little bit of growth before popping them..


I'm still waiting on my 300w from Mike.. He said it would be shipping out by tomorrow... Not sure if it's going to ship tomorrow or not, I hope so :yahoo:...
 
Munki said:
I think heat becomes more of an issue later in flower. Cannabis grows in hotter climates but many strains expect cooler, long nights. Growing those outside their natural expectations can lead to variation in bud formation (stringy or airy bud).

This is how I presently understand it.
Click to expand...

Yep, I think slightly high humidity and temperature is the environment that cannabis evolved in and I would be far more concerned about the flowering stage than the vegetative stage.

As long as the roots are white, flexible, and plentiful the plant should be able to handle heat. Your yield will probably suffer but not nearly so much that it would be advisable to wait until Autumn, lmao.

Munki said:
I don't A/C my tent, but I have good airflow 24 hours a day. Seemed to help me, possibly because the plants do not get a chance to deplete the natural CO2 level. I surmist this offers a bit of resilience to the heat.
Click to expand...

It's not just the CO2 (and O2 for the roots which I feel is even more important not to increased growth but just for survival) being refreshed that helps. After you use your oven, open it up and stick a fan blowing out of it. The air from the fan is obviously (well, hopefully, lol) warmer than the rest of your kitchen and would feel warm blowing on your hand. But wet that hand and suddenly it feels like a cooling breeze as the air-flow evaporates the moisture on your hand and provides a literal cooling affect because of the heat used (whatever) in the evaporative process. Plants don't sweat but they transpire moisture which amounts to the same thing. You can often walk into a grow room just after lights-on and examine two leaves that are touching one on top of the other. Moving them often shows that one is wet even though the temperature in the grow is well above the dew point temperature. That's moisture that the plant has transpired which there wasn't adequate airflow (across the surface that is wet) to evaporate the moisture.

Most things that can be imagined, if they're going to work and be a help in this world, it turns out that "Mother Nature" has already "thought" of them. Evaporative cooling in plants, hexagons in bee hives, et cetera.
 
dogsnova said:
Yes I do 12/12 from the start w/fem hashberry seeds my group and I have made.. Just like you said, only one area needed.. You just get less meds per plant because of lack of veg time.. But from a seed there is actually some veg time.. The reason for this is. Seeds can't flower until they build the adult flowering genes.. So even though the seed starts it's life under 12/12 lighting, they can't flower until the adult gene is built.. For the most part I found that it takes most strains I've played with (doing 12/12 from a seed) 3 to 4 weeks until you start seeing white hairs (adult flowering genes present). So technically the seeds veg under 12/12 for aprox 3-4 weeks.

Flowering a clone just after it establishes a good root system is slightly different.. The clone already has the adult gene, so the clone will start to flower as soon as it goes under 12/12.. So for that reason most growers veg clones aprox a week before going 12/12.. Just to get a little bit of growth before popping them..


I'm still waiting on my 300w from Mike.. He said it would be shipping out by tomorrow... Not sure if it's going to ship tomorrow or not, I hope so :yahoo:...
Click to expand...


Very nice post and info sharing.

thats is true and seed has to be old enough to flower. a clone is as old as its mom so it can flower sooner. some mess up by taking clones too early from a plant and try to flower that clone right away, bur its not mature enough to flower, since its that same age as its mom.

If i did do this with clone i would for sure veg for one week and let them stack those nodes.

I have a friend that goes 12/12 with clones and gets around 3oz per plant. its the craziest thing ive seen. they all look like footballs and rock hard. He wont tell me his tricks to get them that fat, but its crazy. he does like 50 of those to.
 
TorturedSoul said:
Yep, I think slightly high humidity and temperature is the environment that cannabis evolved in and I would be far more concerned about the flowering stage than the vegetative stage.

As long as the roots are white, flexible, and plentiful the plant should be able to handle heat. Your yield will probably suffer but not nearly so much that it would be advisable to wait until Autumn, lmao.



It's not just the CO2 (and O2 for the roots which I feel is even more important not to increased growth but just for survival) being refreshed that helps. After you use your oven, open it up and stick a fan blowing out of it. The air from the fan is obviously (well, hopefully, lol) warmer than the rest of your kitchen and would feel warm blowing on your hand. But wet that hand and suddenly it feels like a cooling breeze as the air-flow evaporates the moisture on your hand and provides a literal cooling affect because of the heat used (whatever) in the evaporative process. Plants don't sweat but they transpire moisture which amounts to the same thing. You can often walk into a grow room just after lights-on and examine two leaves that are touching one on top of the other. Moving them often shows that one is wet even though the temperature in the grow is well above the dew point temperature. That's moisture that the plant has transpired which there wasn't adequate airflow (across the surface that is wet) to evaporate the moisture.

Most things that can be imagined, if they're going to work and be a help in this world, it turns out that "Mother Nature" has already "thought" of them. Evaporative cooling in plants, hexagons in bee hives, et cetera.
Click to expand...


WOW!! very nice post!
I really enjoy reading you comment and post. you brake things down that others dont really think of. great job i just grew a few more brain cells.
 
I do not advocate 12/12 from the start. At one point in time I experimented and felt that the plants that I vegetated until they were mature (alternating nodes, generally showing sex under 18/6 lighting) gave me a better finished product. Could have been an expectation thing but it seemed that I could tell which jar the bud came from without looking.

As always, YMMV. Others do 12/12 from seed and SpeeCees of NoMercy suggests it AfaIK.

But 12/12 as soon as clones are rooted (or even when you first take the cuttings, although I'd recommend more light-hours while rooting) is a different matter since generally plants are mature by the time they are of adequate size to harvest multiple cuttings from.

And... There is nothing preventing you from keeping your current area for a vegetative/cloning area and flowering in a bedroom tent in the summer. In addition to the discussion about how heat is less of a concern while vegetating (with the caveat that you might see somewhat slower growth and slightly longer internodal spacing), there is the fact that one doesn't require the same amount of light (or space) for a vegetative room as one does for a flowering room.

IDK how it would translate with LEDs but with old-school lighting I'd think that 40% of your flowering output would be more or less adequate. After all, you don't try to get your plants to harvest size while vegetating. And if you do the perpetual thing or something like it where you do not need to place all of the plants that you are going to flower into the flowering area at the same time you can of course do with even less space and lighting in the vegetative area. If your plants take nine weeks to flower and you put more in every three weeks, unless you vegetated them for nine weeks as well (I'd go 28 days or more or better yet six weeks and that's "total age from germination so a clone from a six-week old plant would be ready to go as soon as it reached the size that you are looking for... but that's just me and again YMMV) then each plant would spend less time in vegetative than in flower and... and...

I'm sorry but I just completely lost it. I don't have a clue and can't even tell where I was going with this by reading what I've already typed. Oh well, I'll go ahead and post what I have so far; maybe you can figure it out, lol.
 
TorturedSoul said:
I do not advocate 12/12 from the start. At one point in time I experimented and felt that the plants that I vegetated until they were mature (alternating nodes, generally showing sex under 18/6 lighting) gave me a better finished product. Could have been an expectation thing but it seemed that I could tell which jar the bud came from without looking.

As always, YMMV. Others do 12/12 from seed and SpeeCees of NoMercy suggests it AfaIK.

But 12/12 as soon as clones are rooted (or even when you first take the cuttings, although I'd recommend more light-hours while rooting) is a different matter since generally plants are mature by the time they are of adequate size to harvest multiple cuttings from.

And... There is nothing preventing you from keeping your current area for a vegetative/cloning area and flowering in a bedroom tent in the summer. In addition to the discussion about how heat is less of a concern while vegetating (with the caveat that you might see somewhat slower growth and slightly longer internodal spacing), there is the fact that one doesn't require the same amount of light (or space) for a vegetative room as one does for a flowering room.

IDK how it would translate with LEDs but with old-school lighting I'd think that 40% of your flowering output would be more or less adequate. After all, you don't try to get your plants to harvest size while vegetating. And if you do the perpetual thing or something like it where you do not need to place all of the plants that you are going to flower into the flowering area at the same time you can of course do with even less space and lighting in the vegetative area. If your plants take nine weeks to flower and you put more in every three weeks, unless you vegetated them for nine weeks as well (I'd go 28 days or more or better yet six weeks and that's "total age from germination so a clone from a six-week old plant would be ready to go as soon as it reached the size that you are looking for... but that's just me and again YMMV) then each plant would spend less time in vegetative than in flower and... and...

I'm sorry but I just completely lost it. I don't have a clue and can't even tell where I was going with this by reading what I've already typed. Oh well, I'll go ahead and post what I have so far; maybe you can figure it out, lol.
Click to expand...

i was just about to ask some of these things, but you coverd it for me thanks. i could never understand how to do a perpetual grow with my 10 week plants. to me this is the best way have a mother plant then keep clones and keep throwing them into the flower room. i just could never figure out the time to make a harvest every 3 or so weeks with a 10 week flowering plant. Ive always been interested in this.

you have a very very good point keep the veg plants in the hot room then put a smaller tent in my room where i have A/C and flower. i am digging this.
 
TheCheese said:
Hey Irish I just voted for you like you asked. When are you going to send me my $5.00? OOPS I just posted that. I thought this was a PM....JK.

Man there is so much info here it is very hard to digest it all. What is the max heat that anyone has had good success flowering in? :bong:
Click to expand...

Ill have to give you an IOU.lol

the flowing height to flower at IMO matters on your strain, and the light you ues and room size.

some led lights will not let the plant stretch like others or like HID. thats why its a good thing to keep the same strain over and over so you can learn its grow pattern. look at my last grow for example. my XJ-13 doubled in height when turned to 12/12 and my HS under the same light only grew an extra lets say 6-8"
 
Any one know whats the best way to do a perpetual grow with a strain that takes around 10 weeks to harvest? the veg room will be 5'x5' and the colder flowering room would be a 4'x4' tent. how you you do it if i wanted to harvest every 2-3 weeks?

Do i just keep adding clones every 2-3 weeks into the flowering tent until its full? is it one of those deals where it take a while at 1st but one you fill up the tent you now harvest faster.

the way i am thinking is once i throw in lets say 3 plants into the flowering room i veg another 3 plants for 2-3 weeks and so on right?

then just keep the growing pots small and lollipop the plants to they just grow up and not branch out wide?
 
Hi Irish, glad to see you are back at it! I am in the same boat dealing with the heat. Last summer I saw 102f in the flower room on the hottest days lol. That was using small HPS bulbs. The 102f caused problems like stretching, revegging and hermies, but it only affected some strains.

This year there is better air flow and with LED we occasionally see 90-95f during lights on. So far no major problems, although I expect yield is suffering.

TorturedSoul said:
IDK how it would translate with LEDs but with old-school lighting I'd think that 40% of your flowering output would be more or less adequate.
Click to expand...

True, you can get away with a ridiculous wattage vegging with LEDs, especially if the spectrum is tuned specifically for vegging.

I have always liked the perpetual grow style. I am experimenting by pre-flowering 2-3 weeks in a separate room using less power. This could allow for regular 6 week harvests on 8 week plants or it could allow regular 8 week harvests on 10 week sativas. It could also improve the gram/watt figures if we can get away with using less power for the first few weeks of flowering.
 
SupraSPL said:
Hi Irish, glad to see you are back at it! I am in the same boat dealing with the heat. Last summer I saw 102f in the flower room on the hottest days lol. That was using small HPS bulbs. The 102f caused problems like stretching, revegging and hermies, but it only affected some strains.

This year there is better air flow and with LED we occasionally see 90-95f during lights on. So far no major problems, although I expect yield is suffering.



True, you can get away with a ridiculous wattage vegging with LEDs, especially if the spectrum is tuned specifically for vegging.

I have always liked the perpetual grow style. I am experimenting by pre-flowering 2-3 weeks in a separate room using less power. This could allow for regular 6 week harvests on 8 week plants or it could allow regular 8 week harvests on 10 week sativas. It could also improve the gram/watt figures if we can get away with using less power for the first few weeks of flowering.
Click to expand...

ya i here you on that. I was just thinking of getting a few clones say 6 weeks before i harvest, veg for 4 weeks and then preflower for 2 weeks then when i harvest my other set threw those ones in the flowering room and so on. I am gonna keep an eye on my girls this time to see how much the stretch so i know how long to veg for.
 
I figure since we were on the topic of a dark time before switching to 12/12 i wanted to share my special way of flush for suburb smoke. Ive flushed all different kinds of ways but IMO this is the best ive tried. No one and i mean no one around heres weed that i have smoked comes close to the clean smooth smoke i harvest. Every time my ash turns nice and white after smoking a bowl.

now their is allot of debates on a dark period before harvest if it makes more resin/potent buds. I am not too sure on this? i have mixed feelings and think its all strain dependent. but what i do know is when the plant is in the dark period they release their nutes from the plant down the roots. if you grow hydro and check ur PPM in the dark period thats why its higher in the dark period. Also plants store their nutes in the leaves. this is all info i have read over the years many times about our plants.

so this is how i achieve my perfect smoke.

#1. i flush for about a week with clean water

#2 4 days before harvest i cut off all the fan leaves that are holding the nutes, this also helps with getting light to the lower buds and help them ripen better.

#3 I put the plants in a dark period for 36hrs before i cut them down. and make sure I pull them when its dark and no lights on.

Thats it! my smoke is very smooth tasty and clean with now black ash from leftover nutes in your smoke. just pure clean white ash. Some might disagree about this but thats fine dont knock it until you try it. trust me its always good to me. the extra stress might also help with resin.
 
much love bro!

you know after looking through the entries this month i might enter hahaa

ill still vote for you tho! voting for yourself is like some bad juju
 
DonGinandTon said:
much love bro!

you know after looking through the entries this month i might enter hahaa

ill still vote for you tho! voting for yourself is like some bad juju
Click to expand...

for sure you should enter! they also have plant of the month. ya voting for your self is wrong IMO. bad karma!

Thanks for the vote brother!

check out this led grow bro. its done by the guy who made my light.
180W Super Lemon Haze Grow - Lots of Pics!

this is a top grower here using a 600w like mine.
LED in the VipersNest

here another grower with a 600w also.
First Ever SCROG (Kinda) with 600w GrowLedHydro

their will be a few LED VS HID side x side test starting soon. by some top growers on this forum.
 
cheers for the links man ill hit the threads up this weekend.

im deffo going to enter next week i got a pal at work with an amazing camera he uses for soldering chips to boards.

have a good weekend irish and peeps!:grinjoint:
 
stak said:
You shipment might be pushed back one day. I received an email from Mike a few weeks back that said my 180W would ship on or before the 4th. I emailed him yesterday to make sure the 4th was still the day it was shipping and he replied back that it will be delayed one day. Maybe since yours was shipping the same day as mine it is also pushed back one day?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the post... Yep he said the 4th to me also.. But the 5th is ok with me...
 
Back
Top Bottom