Zurple's DWC Bag Seed Grow Journal, 2019

Now the water is about an inch below the basket and the bubbles are splashing the bottom of them.
I added a little nutes and it's at 250ppm, 73 degrees and 5.8ph. The lights are at 24" and I removed the cups from above them. I want to see how they respond at 250 for a few days and then I will bring it up a little.

I may just run at 250 until next weekend for their 1st water change and then creep up the nute dosage. They still have the little leaves that haven't turned yellow yet. Only 3-4 days old.

I will check them again tonight and post a progress pic.
 
Not so :thedoubletake: just stick 'em in organics and let them do their thing :slide:all by themselves :party:






Yeah mate but is that shop bought soil that you just feed water and leave them to it??
It's not easy making organic compost that will give you a perfect run. Takes a few months too as I've been led to believe from what I've seen on the forums.

Shits simple in hydro though with as little as 3 bottles. I use 5 but one of them is scillica which isn't a nutrient or essential in any way.
No brewing composts or teas. No worrying about bacteria or the chlorine in the water. (Chlorine is helpful for non soil grows if you don't use enzymes)

If I need N , I add a bottle of N.
If I need calcium I add a bottle with calcium.

And likewise if I have too much of anything, can just literally take it out instantly and replace it with a less concentration. Can't do that in organics.
You get an issue and it's not an easy fix.

People think hydro is complicated, it's really not.
Just fill a bucket with a shot each from a few bottles and forget about it for a week at a time.
Done.
That's all we do.
There's no magical science behind it.
Just fill a bucket and leave it alone.
That's all you gotta do if you fill it right.

There is a magical stick though, its called a ppm meter. In a reservoir that tells us not only how strong the nutes are but also how strong the plant wants them. So it's pretty easy to get everything at exactly the right strength.

The pH is easily monitored with pin point accuracy too. Hydro might not buffer the pH levels but if you feed the right strength, which again, the little magic stick tells us exactly how strong to make, then the roots produce secretions that will buffer it in the correct direction (up for veg, down for bloom) to allow for optimum absorption of all nutrients.

The yields are fairly incomparable too.
My profile pic is a 22oz auto. Seen plenty guys can kick my ass all over the place with a reservoir but only met a couple that can do that indoors with soil.
 
Now the water is about an inch below the basket and the bubbles are splashing the bottom of them.
I added a little nutes and it's at 250ppm, 73 degrees and 5.8ph. The lights are at 24" and I removed the cups from above them. I want to see how they respond at 250 for a few days and then I will bring it up a little.

I may just run at 250 until next weekend for their 1st water change and then creep up the nute dosage. They still have the little leaves that haven't turned yellow yet. Only 3-4 days old.

I will check them again tonight and post a progress pic.
Plants don't need or want much nutrients mate. Those ones I showed you in the cubes were on about 150ppm and 48 of that is my water.

Check the thread under my name about how to feed a reservoir. It should all be covered in the first 2 pages. :)
 
250ppm is super to start with. I’d raise the ph just a bit to make sure you don’t have lockouts early on.
Raise it to what? I thought 5.8 was the magic number?
 
I typically run 6.0-6.2, at 5.8 and below you'll run into Calcium lock out eventually.
I'll probably check everything tonight. I'm still rooting on the 3rd plant, so I like to check in.

I'm going to go setup a wifi cam now! lol
 
Yeah mate but is that shop bought soil that you just feed water and leave them to it??
It's not easy making organic compost that will give you a perfect run. Takes a few months too as I've been led to believe from what I've seen on the forums.

Shits simple in hydro though with as little as 3 bottles. I use 5 but one of them is scillica which isn't a nutrient or essential in any way.
No brewing composts or teas. No worrying about bacteria or the chlorine in the water. (Chlorine is helpful for non soil grows if you don't use enzymes)

If I need N , I add a bottle of N.
If I need calcium I add a bottle with calcium.

And likewise if I have too much of anything, can just literally take it out instantly and replace it with a less concentration. Can't do that in organics.
You get an issue and it's not an easy fix.

People think hydro is complicated, it's really not.
Just fill a bucket with a shot each from a few bottles and forget about it for a week at a time.
Done.
That's all we do.
There's no magical science behind it.
Just fill a bucket and leave it alone.
That's all you gotta do if you fill it right.

There is a magical stick though, its called a ppm meter. In a reservoir that tells us not only how strong the nutes are but also how strong the plant wants them. So it's pretty easy to get everything at exactly the right strength.

The pH is easily monitored with pin point accuracy too. Hydro might not buffer the pH levels but if you feed the right strength, which again, the little magic stick tells us exactly how strong to make, then the roots produce secretions that will buffer it in the correct direction (up for veg, down for bloom) to allow for optimum absorption of all nutrients.

The yields are fairly incomparable too.
My profile pic is a 22oz auto. Seen plenty guys can kick my ass all over the place with a reservoir but only met a couple that can do that indoors with soil.
Well it's not usually store bought, I mix my own, but it's a variation of subcools super soil. The recipe is all over the net. But in my new journal, I'm using FFOF and their trio nutrient line...it's almost as good...here's my recipe if anyones interested....

8 large bags(1.5 cu ft) of "Roots Organics" potting soil
50 lbs of premium organic worm castings
5 lbs fish bone meal
5 lbs high phosphorus bat guano
5 lbs blood meal
3 lbs rock phosphate
3/4 cup epsom salts
1/2 cup dolomite lime
1/2 cup azomite
2 tbsp powdered humic acid
And my personal preference...1 bag of "Alive" soil activator (beneficial bacteria and fungi)

Blend this mix thoroughly. Spend extra time mixing and blending, so the organic
nutrients are spread evenly throughout the soil.
I put this into 4- 30 gallon plastic garbage cans and water with about 3-4 gallons
of water each , slowly and evenly.
Wait 30 days for everything to mix together well, for nutrient availability all through the soil.

This will make about 15 cubic feet of super soil, before you add your preferred organic perlite or vermiculite up to 60% soil 40% perlite/vermiculite :snowboating:

EDIT: I almost forgot to say You CAN NOT let this soil dry out completely or it will harm or kill the microbial network. It must be kept damp!
 
Well it's not usually store bought, I mix my own, but it's a variation of subcools super soil. The recipe is all over the net. But in my new journal, I'm using FFOF and their trio nutrient line...it's almost as good...here's my recipe if anyones interested....

8 large bags(1.5 cu ft) of "Roots Organics" potting soil
50 lbs of premium organic worm castings
5 lbs fish bone meal
5 lbs high phosphorus bat guano
5 lbs blood meal
3 lbs rock phosphate
3/4 cup epsom salts
1/2 cup dolomite lime
1/2 cup azomite
2 tbsp powdered humic acid
And my personal preference...1 bag of "Alive" soil activator (beneficial bacteria and fungi)

Blend this mix thoroughly. Spend extra time mixing and blending, so the organic
nutrients are spread evenly throughout the soil.
I put this into 4- 30 gallon plastic garbage cans and water with about 3-4 gallons
of water each , slowly and evenly.
Wait 30 days for everything to mix together well, for nutrient availability all through the soil.

This will make about 15 cubic feet of super soil, before you add your preferred organic perlite or vermiculite up to 60% soil 40% perlite/vermiculite :snowboating:

EDIT: I almost forgot to say You CAN NOT let this soil dry out completely or it will harm or kill the microbial network. It must be kept damp!
See mate, thats not easy lol. Deviate from that mix even slightly and it probably wont work. Feed it water laced with chlorine and your bacteria die so need purified water too. Thats too much for me like. I get stressed just looking at those recipies lol.
 
See mate, thats not easy lol. Deviate from that mix even slightly and it probably wont work. Feed it water laced with chlorine and your bacteria die so need purified water too. Thats too much for me like. I get stressed just looking at those recipies lol.
Ya but you said just follow the numbers :rofl::rofl: Ah, I live in a rural area, so I use organics for my outside garden as well, this years garden was a little bigger than normal so :hmmmm: that's why I went with FFOF and the trio line in my journal, to show how easy organics can be with a couple boxes dropped at your door :thumb:
 
Take some tweezers stick it in the crack of the seed, open tweezers releasing the pressure the seed is holding on the seedling, it should pop right off.

When you originally plant the seed, put it a half inch deeper or so, the friction from the seedlings pushing through the soil will knock off that helmet, you won’t even know it was there :thumb:
 
Take some tweezers stick it in the crack of the seed, open tweezers releasing the pressure the seed is holding on the seedling, it should pop right off.

When you originally plant the seed, put it a half inch deeper or so, the friction from the seedlings pushing through the soil will knock off that helmet, you won’t even know it was there :thumb:
Thanks, going to try that.
 
That’s not because of trying to get the helmet off is it? :jawdropper:
Unfortunately. It was running 4-5 days longer than the other 2 and I had a friend bring me a seed, so I figured why not, as I had something to replace it with any way. At least we know what strain this new seed is. I need to ask him again what it was since I was pretty stoned when he was hangin out. lol

I am trying the new seed directly in a rapid rooter, instead of starting over in a paper towel again. If it works, I may drop all of them in in the future. I know it's to confirm that the seeds will germinate, but it seems an unnecessary step for me.
 
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