Woodsman's Northern Light #5 Grow

MostlyCrazy said:
Transplant shock is overrated. Lots worse things that can happen to it and it still thrives. I just takes a day or two to recover. I make sure I water mine heavily when I transfer and rarely have any skock at all. I make sure It's water only on the transfer. Nutes come later after it gets settled into it's new home.
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I did put nutes! I watered first (plain distilled water) then applied a 1/4 strength dose of fish emulsion. I normally use a 1/2 strength. The two larger of the plants #'s 1 and 2 had yellow embryonic leaves prior to transplant.
 
I think my worry comes from never having a problem before when transplanting my pot plants. worse tht could happen is that I'm left with three plants.
 
Good news! All the plants with the exception of #3 are fine. #1 and #2 have perked up somewhat and are on their way to a full recovery. #3 is still drooping and has shown little improvement. #4, the deformed one, was fine throughout the transplant precess and #4 was not root bound at all, prior to transplant. The baby, #5 has been fine and healthy with no problems. This one will be the last to transplant when it is ready. It's just starting to show it's second set of leaves. Finding space for another larger pot could be a problem. I'll do pics on Friday.
 
Whatever you do, let the soil on your root bound transfer dry...force the roots to go look for water. I know you know better but, without exception it is better to severe the spiraling roots and pull them off than try and coax the plant to send new tap roots downward when you trained them to spiral and knot themselves. Take a razor and run it vertical down the root ball like 8 times all around the spiraled root ball, this will cut the tap root, pull off the mass on the bottom, it will come free.

I know you know better bro, but just letting people learning from your thread know. :ganjamon: (I use a clear cup with holes inside an opaque one so I can see roots on seedlings, some grow tons of foliage first and some grow roots first, only way to be sure what is going on is to be able to see it.)

:peace:
 
Hey brother. sry that I haven't been around. The kids have been keeping me busy. The ladies are looking very nice. I disappear for a few days and miss all the fun. I wouldn't worry to much about the transplant. These things take a beating. Looking forward to the pics!
 
MountainHigh said:
Whatever you do, let the soil on your root bound transfer dry...force the roots to go look for water. I know you know better but, without exception it is better to severe the spiraling roots and pull them off than try and coax the plant to send new tap roots downward when you trained them to spiral and knot themselves. Take a razor and run it vertical down the root ball like 8 times all around the spiraled root ball, this will cut the tap root, pull off the mass on the bottom, it will come free.

I know you know better bro, but just letting people learning from your thread know. :ganjamon: (I use a clear cup with holes inside an opaque one so I can see roots on seedlings, some grow tons of foliage first and some grow roots first, only way to be sure what is going on is to be able to see it.)

:peace:
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Great advise and it is in essence the way I always used to transplant. I don't know who on the site I found the advise about just placing the undisturbed root ball untouched directly into the ground and it's not important, as I should have used my tried and true ways! Instead of cutting the old root ball up with a knife as you suggest MH, I break the ball up with my hands and in the process the roots are torn up (at least on the outside edges and bottom of the ball.. Thanks always for your support!

The little ones are all coming around now!


velodrone said:
Hey brother. sry that I haven't been around. The kids have been keeping me busy. The ladies are looking very nice. I disappear for a few days and miss all the fun. I wouldn't worry to much about the transplant. These things take a beating. Looking forward to the pics!
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No worries mate! And As I mentioned to MH above, the plants have come back to life (even #3 is starting to spread it's wings) and my worries are over. I will always use my old method (in my answer to MH) in the future!.

Pics a little later today.
 
MountainHigh said:
Whatever you do, let the soil on your root bound transfer dry...force the roots to go look for water. I know you know better but, without exception it is better to severe the spiraling roots and pull them off than try and coax the plant to send new tap roots downward when you trained them to spiral and knot themselves. Take a razor and run it vertical down the root ball like 8 times all around the spiraled root ball, this will cut the tap root, pull off the mass on the bottom, it will come free.
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Hey Mountain High, that is some great advise on transplanting. That's how I was taught by long time nurserymen.

Woodsman said:
No worries mate! And As I mentioned to MH above, the plants have come back to life (even #3 is starting to spread it's wings) and my worries are over. I will always use my old method (in my answer to MH) in the future!.
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Hey Woodsman, we ll knew everything would be alright, you're a good daddy to your babies and they will respond for you.
Watching impatiently I mean patiently.
 
DreaminOfBuds said:
Hey Mountain High, that is some great advise on transplanting. That's how I was taught by long time nurserymen.



Hey Woodsman, we ll knew everything would be alright, you're a good daddy to your babies and they will respond for you.
Watching impatiently I mean patiently.
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Hey Dreamin, thanks for the encouraging words my friend, I'm (and the plants are ) back to normal. What do you guys call it when you pull the plant over to induce lower growth? LST? Well instead of topping (and it would be near that time on #1 and #2), instead I'm going to pull them over and 'let'em grow'.

Here some photos from a few minutes ago.

A group shot
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Plant #1 and the baby #5
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Plant #2
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Plant #3 and still recovering from the transplant
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The Deformed plant #4
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#1 being trained
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#2 being trained
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#1 and #2 with the baby (#1 is next to the baby, oldest and youngest)
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As you all can see, I have a high regard for duct tape! LOL, my homemade reflector for the 100w MH was originally a $9 clip on work lamp that I just cut the crap out of and pieced it together (budget grow to the max!). Also, I have a shortage of pots so I had to repair some of them! Can you say 'watertight'!
 
Glad your babies are looking good, even 3 doesn't look too bad, looks like its new growth is showing sign's of recovered health, shouldn't be long before it completely picks up!!! Great Job:goodjob:

Interesting way to tie them over.

:peace: brother.
 
MostlyCrazy said:
Watertight! If they are not the I say duct it!
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When I was transplanting the other day, I picked up #2 and the rim of the pot ripped, fell to the floor and about half the soil spilled out! What a mess! That's when the duct tape was applied!
 
MountainHigh said:
Glad your babies are looking good, even 3 doesn't look too bad, looks like its new growth is showing sign's of recovered health, shouldn't be long before it completely picks up!!! Great Job:goodjob:

Interesting way to tie them over.

:peace: brother.
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I've always been big on thumbtacks and string (and duct tape).
God gave me brains so I could lose them at my own pleasure!
 
Here To Learn said:
good job with the training Woodsman. I am glad to read that the little ones are doing better. The last one will probably perk back up in a couple of days.
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This is actually the first time that I'm using LST in a 'plantling' (young plant). I do train my plants later in their life with strings and thumbtacks and such in order to sculpt them to my liking, but I've always cropped at this stage in the past, Cutting delays growth slightly and I don't want to lose any more time than necessary. On my Mazar I lost about a week of growth after I chopped until it caught back up. Cropping outdoors I've found doesn't delay growth to that extent. Perhaps if your using a 1000w system to grow then it wouldn't cause too much of a delay. My experience only.
 
I try not to cut any part of the plants that are still green for two reasons.

1) green means chlorophyll is present.
2) cutting plants (especially green portions) is stressful.

I trained Annie Oakley from the time he was a small plantling and he did quite well.
 
Here To Learn said:
I try not to cut any part of the plants that are still green for two reasons.

1) green means chlorophyll is present.
2) cutting plants (especially green portions) is stressful.

I trained Annie Oakley from the time he was a small plantling and he did quite well.
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If I lived alone (not only from the wife LOL) with no snoopy neighbor kids riding their 4 wheelers through the woods in the back like 50 feet form my back porch, I'd let the outdoor grows get big and tall. If not just to see how tall I could get them. Unfortunately for me I have to be somewhat stealthy so I've had to chop them to keep'em low. And now that I'm growing indoors, I don't have the height to let'em go.

you sure did train Annie Oakley good, too bad that he was a he!
 
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