- Thread starter
- #901
If the zon didn't lie this time, water probe and dolomite will be here tomorrow morning. Ha ha ha ha ha....
Winter Weedy Wonderland - Auto Grow - Royal Queen Seeds
- Thread starter Lady Cannafan
- Start date
Maybe try this if their still not flowering
Post in thread 'Rare situations where you need to flip autos to 12/12'
Rare situations where you need to flip autos to 12/12
- Thread starter
- #903
I was there earlier today. Lol I'm giving time at 12/12 to see if that gets it going. General thoughts about it were to enjoy the long veg time and plant growing larger, but waiting and waiting is throwing me off my future grow plan. I'll give it a week, I'm thinking.
Morning LCF, amazing that the plants are still not in flower! Have you thought to ask the opinion of RQS? How many days now is it that they have been on 12/12?
4our8ighty0
Well-Known Member
Wow a lotta good stuff since I was last on
still digesting tbh,but I did want to say Great analogy on the breast feeding nursing tree lol and the finding myco,I not sure who said it but do not just buy any random myco. When looking for and buying myco you have to remember they are living creatures that need specific temps,rh and sustenance!! The best way is to look for colony variety first! This gives you more types myco that do different things! Then focus on colony numbers! More is better! Then you must look at packaging,if package does not have airholes or humidity vents do not buy them. Check the dates myco are only giving enough resources to survive a specific time under optimal conditions. Retail transport is not optimal conditions so make sure it's the most recently packaged bag!! I also think y'all should check this stuff out. Lmk what you think of this stuff ?
still digesting tbh,but I did want to say Great analogy on the breast feeding nursing tree lol and the finding myco,I not sure who said it but do not just buy any random myco. When looking for and buying myco you have to remember they are living creatures that need specific temps,rh and sustenance!! The best way is to look for colony variety first! This gives you more types myco that do different things! Then focus on colony numbers! More is better! Then you must look at packaging,if package does not have airholes or humidity vents do not buy them. Check the dates myco are only giving enough resources to survive a specific time under optimal conditions. Retail transport is not optimal conditions so make sure it's the most recently packaged bag!! I also think y'all should check this stuff out. Lmk what you think of this stuff ?
- Thread starter
- #906
Good morning everyone.
My moisture meter arrived this morning, as well as the Dolomite.
All pots read dry, but I am feeding and watering this morning. I didn't get to it last night like I intended.
So, how long should I wait after watering to test the soil again?
I need to read back on the Dolomite, am I making a liquid to add to my watering jugs or what? LOL
My moisture meter arrived this morning, as well as the Dolomite.
All pots read dry, but I am feeding and watering this morning. I didn't get to it last night like I intended.
So, how long should I wait after watering to test the soil again?
I need to read back on the Dolomite, am I making a liquid to add to my watering jugs or what? LOL
- Thread starter
- #907
I had thought about asking RQS, might do that today.
The 12/12 has been for three nights/days now. This morning doesn't look much different other than stretch. Some of the pistils are longer....but that's about it. LOL
These plants are the same size as any photo period I've grown.
Their sprout dates were 10/25 and 10/26
Strange...
Plants are looking great LCUpdate: RQS Auto grow 1-5-25
While I was in there, I took some quick pics.
Goat'lato is still not in flower, but it's only been a couple days of the light schedule flip to try to get them going.
Royal Gorilla and Royal Creamatic are flowering nicely, despite the damn thrips. Considering spraying neem oil on them, but not sure if I want use that during flower either. Have to read up...again. LOL I will do a top soil spray though.
Totally slipped my mind with all the excitement yesterday. The nutes I’m using have mycos in it. It’s dry organic called pride lands veg. I also ordered from sponsor a bag of more.
This is a picture of the back of the bag. The non plant food ingredients lift what fungi my plant food has.
- Thread starter
- #911
Which sponsor? And is it pricey?Totally slipped my mind with all the excitement yesterday. The nutes I’m using have mycos in it. It’s dry organic called pride lands veg. I also ordered from sponsor a bag of more.
This is a picture of the back of the bag. The non plant food ingredients lift what fungi my plant food has.
Thanks Wayne!
If that Goat-lato turns out to be a auto she's going to be huge
No I meant I ordered a bag of dynamyco, not more pride lands. Though I have been enjoying pride lands I’ll probably go back to mega crop after it’s gone. I have zero complaints with it. But mega crop was cheaper I think. I’ll go with one of the two for outdoor summer grow and will need a big bag or two.
I think the dynamyco cost more than the veg nute. Per pound I know so.
- Thread starter
- #914
I agree. I guess my question is....how would I know if they are Auto or Photo at this point? It's growing like a photo.
Stumps me.....
- Thread starter
- #915
Does the Dynomyco have an expiration, or use by date on the bags?
I’ll know when it arrives in a couple weeks. But your friend will have brought you a bag by then. I’m sure someone knows off hand.
My guess* is that it’s good till opened then starts to degrade. But I don’t know.
Mycorrhizae do have a use by date, usually a year or two for propagules, 2 or 3 years for spores. Some will survive longer, but the rate of colonization goes down.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Wow that was quick
.I test my soil every day for moisture levels. Each strain has a slightly different sweet spot, but all in the green zone of the meter.
You should wash the probe part of the meter with a soap such as dish soap on a wet cloth to take off any greases that may be left from manufacturing before use.
After watering, poke it into the pot at various depths in multiple places and see if you have any dry spots. Then just check daily and also observe the plant.
When the plant seems happiest, make note of the moisture level and try to keep it there. LOS doesn't like an extreme drydown cycle, it likes more of an even moisture, so find her sweet spot and try to spend as much time there as you can.
I actually ended up going to drippers and have them come on multiple times a day in short increments, but normal watering works well too.
Yes. I put a quarter cup in a 1 quart mason jar and fill it with water. Then I shake the heck out of it for a day.
Then when needed, I add it a tablespoon at a time to my watering jug until it reaches 50-70 ppm, and water with it. I do a full watering just as if I were using water only. I only use it when the refractometer telks me that calcium is needed.
You will notice that a sludge builds in the bottom of the canning jar. When the jar gets low I dump the sludge and start a fresh jar of concentrate. After a week or 2 a nasty sulphury smell like rotten eggs will come from the jar of concentrate when opened. You've been warned lol.
If that's too much work, regular calmag works just as well. It's just a lot costlier is all.
If your soil is currently calcium deficient you may have a bit of locked nitrogen in it, so the 1st application may show some nitrogen toxicity in your leaves, and clawing may occur. That's because of the electrical charge/relationship between Ca and Mg. They are both strong electrolytes, and when in ratio the Ca keeps the Mg in check, but if Ca gets low in the ratio, the excess Mg needs to do something with it's charge, so it locks onto nitrogen.
Nitrogen is excess Mg's 1st choice, and it will lock out nitrogen on a 1 to 1 basis for every excess Mg. So a calcium deficiency quickly leads to a nitrogen deficiency, and eventually a magnesium deficiency, as once Mg and N lock together, both are unuseable. They are locked out. Adding calcium to correct this instantly releases all the pent up N and Mg at once, so The Claw can occur.
Nitrogen is very volatile, so it burns off quickly, making this more or less a 1 time event.
Calcium is a dual purpose nutrient. Plants consume it, but it's also a soil conditioner.
Soil particles are a lot like plates in your cupboard. When all the plates are neatly stacked, that's compacted soil. They are stuck together by magnetism. Positives and negatives in the particles.
When you put 2 magnets together they stick, but turn one over and they repel. That's because turning one over reversed the charge.
So calcium is a very strong electrolyte. When it gets added to soil this electricity is spread throughout the soil. It restores proper charge to the soil, and every 2nd plate in the stack will reverse it's charge and flip up on edge as it repels. Once on edge it now magnetically sticks, but standing up.
This fluffs the soil, and air and water can now flow thru the hallways created by the now uncompacted soil. It's called tilth. That's how calcium conditions the soil.
If your soil starts to get crusty on top (not how a fresh layer of EWC will crust on 1st drydown) and you break it up with your fingers, and the crusting comes back next drydown, calcium is low and compaction is starting.
Because calcium is very heavy it falls thru the soil at every watering. It's extremely mobile when wet. So compaction starts on the surface and shows as crusting.
EWC topdressing will always crust after it's 1st watering, that's normal. It is calcium rich and the 1st watering activates the calcium and it starts to move around. Break that up with your fingers on 1st drydown and it shouldn't come back. It's sudden random crusting that you need to watch for.
You also need to be awarecthat over calcification will fluff your soil too much, and all the particles will losecgrip on each other and the soil will turn to dust. At that point your soil has too much electricity in it and your leaves will start to fry.
So with liquid calcium, low and slow is the key. At 50-70 ppm you won't cause frying, and if it wasn't enough to restore tilth and fuzz the refractometer line, then next watering you just use another low ppm dose.
2 or 3 small doses are far better than 1 large dose.
Fun fact: this is true in humans too.
When Ca gets low, Mg gets high in ratio and locks nitrogen. In humans, nitrogen is calked protein. So low Ca leads to protein lockout, causing high carbs, as carbs and proteins need to be in ratio too.
So low calcium means weight gain, and is a direct cause of type 2 diabetes.
The other major pitfall of low calcium in humans is that Mg must now replace Ca as our body's prime electrolyte. Mg is not as good at running bodily systems, so it must decide what functions get electricity and what don't.
Now enter cholesterol. Our body creates it, and without it we would die in minutes. Too much is bad and will slowly kill us too.
Calcium is strong enough to turn cholesterol production on and off as needed millions of times a day, but Mg isn't, so Mg turns it on and leaves it on, then focuses on other functions with it's limited ability. Too much cholesterol takes 40-ish years to kill us. So low calcium leads to high cholesterol in humans too.
Now enter Lipitor, the number one cholesterol reducing statin. It's brand name is Lipitor, but it's real name is atorovastatin calcium. It's refined calcium that is immediately bio available, and restores calcium as the main electrolyte, and cholesterol production resumes proper function instantly.
So instead of telling you that you are low on calcium and need a diet change, you get put on a pharmacutical for life.
By the way, you guys may have beaten @Jon and Nick's record for posts in a 24 hour period.
5 pages overnight!
5 pages overnight!
- Thread starter
- #920
That's good to know. I was going to ask how long that mix took to start getting a nasty smell.
Cal/Mag is expensive, so if this is friendlier on the budget, I'm all for that!
Edit: meant to say that I watered/fed this morning with a little extra cal/mag. This time I top watered with 1/2 gallon and the filled the base with the remainder.
The self watering bases under the two non-flowering plants are probably getting removed today, and I will just top water those two for the rest of the grow. They are stretching and the canopy is going to be heck to deal with when they decide what the hell they are and if they want to flower. LOL