WheelOFortune's - first turn

this is f'n sweet. thank you for pointing this out to me maxx,

Plant cells have been cultured to produce many ingredients needed by the food industries. Tremendous progress has been made in recent years in understanding the basics of plant metabolism and in the development of bioprocesses as well as design and operation of large-scale bioreactors for plant cell culture. A wide range of food ingredients including flavors, colorants, essential oils, sweeteners and antioxidants have been produced in culture. Japan has so far been the most successful country in the world to carry out plant cell culture on commercial scale. Ginseng products derived from cell suspension cultures of Panax ginseng used as an additive in wine, tonic drinks and herbal liquors have been produced by a company in Japan since 1990 with a net sale of 3 million dollars in 1995.
 
callus would be the flower? or just a blob of undifferentiated cells?

I guess low auxins would produce sog? or just a bunch of leaves?
 
it looks easy enough, as long as you have access to the hormones or chemical equivalent. i wonder if you first grow shoots, then change to grow roots, could you make a big flat mega plant and plant it?

here is some good stuff for newbs like me (well maybe not like me) that want to read more.
https://www.genprice.com/plant_cell_culture.htm
 
I am incredibly curious about tissue culture.

as near as I can tell, you grow shoots, then cut and root them. not 100% awesome, but beats having to keep a mom, even a bonsai.
 
WheeloFortune said:
no maxx,

why have you?

I wish I knew how, it would be a powerful tool, unfortunately i never took molecular biology in college. maybe i should go back and take a class lol, it would help with breeding for sure. i might have done something similar, i took basic biology in school and we measured respiration and stuff. I know we cultured some plant leaf in a liquid in a petre dish, but i forgot what we did with it. lol.
Click to expand...

I have yet take it on, but like you said. it's all getting cheaper to do, and its mostly technique.

I used to be very interested in mushroom cultivation, and the process is very similar.

Recently I read an article about 'Biohacking' that has me looking at it again.

Also a guy who was messing with the DNA of chickens and making Jurassic versions of them caused all that stuff is still there in their DNA. Gave me some interesting thoughts about our own DNA and what might be in there. If we are descendants of so called 'Gods' then......
 
maxximus said:
I have yet take it on, but like you said. it's all getting cheaper to do, and its mostly technique.

I used to be very interested in mushroom cultivation, and the process is very similar.

Recently I read an article about 'Biohacking' that has me looking at it again.

Also a guy who was messing with the DNA of chickens and making Jurassic versions of them caused all that stuff is still there in their DNA. Gave me some interesting thoughts about our own DNA and what might be in there. If we are descendants of so called 'Gods' then......
Click to expand...

You guys are doing great.:cool:

Man I can grow I did a journal about mushroom cultivation too. Rice cakes away.;)

Pan4
 
help! soon!

hey i bought a cheap hanna ph meter. you know the red one thats boxy on top.
i calibrated it correctly, and it read the calibration solution correctly.

if i scoop up a little water into my old ph testing tube from my res, and test it it tests 6.3. if i put test solution in there its mostly yellow with hint of green, so 6.3 sounds right.

whenever i put my meter directly into my res it reads 5.3. this is so frustrating.

which one is right??????

im leaning towards believing the one taken in a vial out of the res. the solution color doesn't lie.

anyone had this or know about it?

long story short, i have added both ph down and up because i went too far, now its being a bitch to correct? could this be the prob? do i have to waste my nutes and dump the res?
 
thanks pan its been sitting since may last post, ill check it now.
 
i just decided to toss it and start fresh.

even with just plain tap in the res, it measures 1 ph point lower on my meter when i measure it in the res as compared to when i pull out a sample and test it.

i have decided to trust the test tube since the ph solution confirms the ph for the water. who know what is happening in the res. soon i will have the cash to get a GOOD meter. or better yet an intellidose.

i hope my res is right now, all of the tops turned green again, so switching my res solved that yellowing prob i had before. . . i dont want that to happen again. . . but i cant afford to keep flushing my nutes down the proverbial toilet.

I have a 25 gal res, but i decided to only fill it with 15 gal. . . i think i want to get a slightly smaller, but taller res. i hope it doesn't fluctuate too much with less in there.
 
My Pro test sol never broke, so I never fixed it. Those pH meters sound finicky. And pricey. RO has helped me, I think. Buck a gal. and shlep it. Gonna have to do a 200+ RO install. What hurts less? fiik Guess I'll just slide back down in my deep spot and cogitate on this awhile.
 
Pro test sol? How accurate is that stuff, anyway? My first digital meter was only accurate to 0.2pH but it never seemed to drift appreciably from one calibration-session to the next (two-point calibration). My next one was wonderful, it was accurate to 0.1 - but also wonderfully fragile, I lunched two tips for it somehow. Still, I wish I'd kept it.

I'm guessing the Pro test sol is a kit that changes color that you match to a chart? I wonder how well that would work for someone that is "slightly" (lol) color-blind? If I had to get someone else to read it I would just end up carrying tubes of the nutrient solution to a friend who works at a place that has constant pH monitoring machines and save myself the embarrassment.

A dollar a gallon?!? I used to get water from the grocery store machine that used RO, low-micron filtration, something else that I can't remember, and finally passing through strong UV lights (that water was pure and DEAD lol). I had to carry my own 3-gallon jugs in - and a lot of them. But at about 21 cents/gallon it seemed worth the effort.

I wonder if they still have the machine? My tap water smells like a swimming pool and I can't even stand to drink it.
 
question out there for a co2 wiz.

i have a 4 x 8 x 7 foot tent, so 224 cubic feet. i have a vent pulling air out of the tent into a 10 x 10 x 8 room, and can close that door too. if i close the door it will get warmer and more humid. the vent has a 500 cfm duct assist fan, but i doubt it is anywhere near that efficient with all the bends in the ducting and the light bulb and holder. the temp is ok, the humidity makes me nervous.

bedroom door open = 78 max temp 40% humid.
door closed= 82 max 70% humid.

i have a 20lb. CO2 tank and a selenoid/regulator on a timer that i can only turn on/off in 30 min, intervals, and can only dose twice a day. 5 cfm is the lowest mark on the regulatorm but i can turn it down lower than that. maybe 1 cfm.

today was my first day hooking it back up in a long time, and my setup has changed significantly.

does anyone have advice on how long i should run it for, at what flow rate, and at what times in the light cycle. i know to have it off when the lights are off. my last space was much smaller.

maxx if you wanna ring in i would appreciate it.

right now i have it on as low as i can (~1 cfm?) on the whole light cycle. is this too much? i dont want to die in my sleep tonight. lol. jk.
 
your exhust air should take care of the rest of the co2 if your worreid about it get a co2 detector outside the room so if it gets to low a alarm would go off then u can go open windows and turn it off till u figure otu whats wrong

the co2 detector probly be nice would hate for something to happen
 
thanks for the suggestion, but im broke.

i just spent my last expendable cash on upgrading my co2 from 5 lb (used in my clone box before it was a clone box) to a 20 lb.
new tank: 100 bucks.

i haven't used co2 for a long time.

im looking for a suggestion of exact flow rate and dosage time with some reasonable mathematical foundation.
how long will a 20 lb tank at 1000 psi last at this dosage?

eventually i would like to get a controller, but i cant right now.
 
also, i am not exhausting outside of my house. just into a room that i can close or not close.
i would rather close it, but it gets humid.

i will be putting an ac unit in a window through the tent wall when it gets hotter.
i could hook ducting up to the other side of the cool tube and not exhaust the tent at all, if that would save me co2 usage.
i have more ducting.
 
I would think that if you're recirculating back and forth to/from the outer room (with your door shut) that it wouldn't take much at all to hit 1500-2000 ppm.

I didn't know they made 5lb. tanks, I've only seen 20 & 100 lb.

Did it just get to be a pain taking the 5lb. tank in for a refill every few months?

If your temperature only hits 82°F maximum, will your plants even be able to use extra CO2? I always thought that they started using it under extreme lights and temperatures of higher than 85°F.

Or maybe that was just the temperature range where MJ was most efficient at using extra CO2.

Anyway... If you run venting to your lights separately and can consider that 224 cubic feet a "closed area," let's see. If you can accurately meter the flow down to 1cfm... And assume 300ppm ambient CO2... And you are shooting for 1500ppm... Hmm...

You would want to run the tank for 16.128 seconds per hour.
 
Additionally, I can't remember the point at which CO2 becomes toxic to your plants, but if you just leave the thing cracked open I have a feeling you'll find it sooner or later. That's a small space.

If you're sealing the room that the tent is in up so that you have to boost the CO2 for the entire space (venting back and forth between tent to room), what size is the room?
 
Ok, above 2000ppm it starts to become toxic to plants (if 100°F+ and 120+ watts per square foot you might be able to raise that a little).

Above 4000ppm it starts to become toxic to people. You can't raise that.
 
thanks tor,

also i found this in one of the guides

To find out how much CO2 is needed to bring the growing area to the ideal 2000 PPM, multiply the cubic area of the growing room (length x width x height) by .002. The total represents the number of square feet of gas required to reach optimum CO2 range. For instance, a room 13' x 18' x 12' contains 2808 cubic feet: 2808 x .002 equals 5.6 cubic feet of CO2 required. The easiest way to supply the gas is to use a CO2 tank. All the equipment can be built from parts available at a welding suspply store or purchased totally assembled from many growing supply companies. Usually tanks come in 20 and 50 pound sizes, and can be bought or rented. A tank which holds 50 pounds has a gross weight of 170 pounds when filled.

A grow room of 250 cubic feet requires 1/2 cubic foot of CO2

To regulate dispersal of the gas, a combination flow meter/regulator is required. Together they regulate the flow between 10 and 50 cubic feet per hour. The regulator standardizes the pressure and regulates the number of cubic feet released per hour. A solenoid valve shuts the flow meter on and off as regulated by a multicycle timer, so the valve can be turned on and off several times each day. If the growing room is small, a short-range timer is needed. Most timers are calibrated in 1/2 hour increments, but a short-range timer keeps the valve open only a few minutes.

To find out how long the valve should remain open, the number of cubic feet of gas required (in our example .5 feet) is divided by the flow rate. For instance, if the flow rate is 1 cubic feet per hour, .5 divided by 1 = .5 hours or 30 minutes .

i guess im going to have to turn it down tomorrow!
 
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