- Thread starter
- #141
Have have been feeding them
once every two watering I have a tea brewing now and I was playing on feeding her tomorrow that's why she's doing that .good to know I also increase the amount of nutrition
Well been a while but but my babies are not camera shy
- Thread starter Dank777
- Start date
once every two watering I have a tea brewing now and I was playing on feeding her tomorrow that's why she's doing that .good to know I also increase the amount of nutrition
You have to feed every day in coco.Have have been feeding them
No plain water ever.
She is hungry my friend.
She needs daily nutrition.
Stay safe
Bill
- Thread starter
- #143
Tea is fine once in a while but you have to give her your bloom formulated nutrients.
Every day my friend at 5.8 ph.
Stay safe
Bill
- Thread starter
- #145
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- #146
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- #147
I usually only keep a tea 24hrs as it goes bad after that.
I never put it in the fridge.
Stay safe
Bill
- Thread starter
- #149
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- #150
Good morning my friend. @Dank7772 picture of the first
How are you doing today?
Stay safe
Bill
- Thread starter
- #152
@Bill284 OMG bill I was literally starving my babies to death since I've been feeding them every day my fertilizer it's like they just coming back alive two days into it I think I won't feed them for the last week so they can naturally flush on my last one my other plants they gave me a quarter pound flushed naturally novice mistake
- Thread starter
- #153
@Bill284 fighting so hard not to use defoliation on some leaves if I don't stunt them they're going to get real big the whole point of this Garden was to run short Stout plants to see if I was able to do it oh yes and Bill I only did it for 2 days the top dress because all my other plants are really doing well with this type of gardening so I don't want to overfeed them I haven't been top dressing the rest of them everyday and they're doing so well they refuse to stop growing
Hello @Dank777 I'm glad things are growing well.
I'm not a big fan of defoliation.
I love training though.
Keeping them flat is perfect.
Stay safe
Bill
- Thread starter
- #155
@Bill284 that's why you have big old beautiful girls I'm talking about BBWs and I normally would let mines become BBWs but like I said I was trying to do short and Stout but if I don't strip some leave soon and stunt them they are going to be BBWs
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- #156
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- #157
ppm Charlie
Well-Known Member
No, I think many of the leaf temperature studies you find online used "high-priced" thermo-detectors and "expensive" infrared video equipment to measure cannabis leaf surface temps under various lighting and growing-environment temperature conditions (for their LED vs HID/HPS comparison).Those are leaf temperatures. You use a cheap laser thermometer to check, but air temperatures are relatively close.
Doesn't matter if it's from HID or LED, so far as I'm aware, and you align you target temp with the corresponding RH.
Hasn't steered me wrong...and VPD is usually considered the gold standard for environmentally being dialed in.
I have. Would I recommend that? No, it requires tremendous airflow, but then again I wouldn't recommend someone grow at that corresponding temperature either without C02. Ideal temp is 21C to 23C for mid to late flowering. And if you happen to look....that = 35 to 45 late flowering.
Not if their controlling their environment 100%- which is the best part of indoor growing. Or running C02, which is a completely different topic, and not one I see helping the OP right now (unless I'm mistaken?)
I totally agree, and the same goes with temperatures, till 21C is reached.
if their operating in the red. The only exception being last week or two of flower. Drop that RH as low as she'll go.
umm... is a VPD chart.
Nope, I won't take that bet, but I'm willing to continue to bet my future grows on it as a guide within my operating temps till shown otherwise.
Agreed. And just so you know, I do grow under LEDs, and so far am satisfied with my yields and results.
I've got lots to learn- but what works for one won't always work for another, each grower needs to find what works for them.
And here's the other VPD chart (which again, is taken from leaf temperature). This is the other chart passed around on the forum.
I prefer the other, as its easier to read.
These are the charts that I've seen passed around on 420 for VPD.
You argue cheap measuring equipment: My answer; I think, a lot of the time, the "higher-expense" of the instrument or equipment, in general, only guarantees increased precision, rather than complete and infallible accuracy. I think measuring and laboratory equipment are only as good as the operator and the calibration standards used to "zero" the devices - "cheap" or "expensive".
I would also argue that the majority of growers, by-and-large, do not use this chart in their grows. Therefore it is irrelevant. Temp and humidity can vary significantly, day-to-day - in most amateur small-scale grows, medium-scale amateur grows and outdoor grows. Unless you have a "professionally" sealed grow room with multi-big-dollar environmental equipment, most growers cannot obtain this level of environmental control constantly (so is the chart important? - really? - to most growers here at the 420 website?).
I think indoor environmental engineers mostly use this chart for sizing, paring, and integrating A/C, air handling and dehumidification/humidification systems in professional grows. I do not know if the VPD is a very good management tool for all 420 crops - one size does not fit all.
First, it assumes an "idealized" rate of photosynthesis for max transpiration and nute flow. That is never the case in any type of grow. Plant-to-plant, leaf-leaf-to-leaf, all the time. In fact, if you examine the original research for your chart you will find there were many assumptions made regarding the "actual" rate of photosynthesis on a section of leaf and how those same assumptions changed regarding shaded or sunshade leaves. Their experiemental estimates were made based on "certain" plentiful assumptions. No plant is an idealized hybridized and constant "photosynthesis machine" where all things and plants are "equal".
Next, the chart assumes all 420 plant varieties, 420 species and 420 sub-species, react in the same way to one idealized set of environmental conditions. That is not the case either. Some like it hot and dry, some like it moist and cool (and any derivation in-between). Bad logic to assume all 420 like one "idealized" environmental regime for any particular stage of growth.
Last, I think in "real-life circumstances" you find a lot of variation in professional and amateur goals regarding their "grow". Techniques and methods vary widely. Plant stress is one of the most important cannabis growing techniques with many various methods of application.
For example, it is clear that certain stresses on 420 plants, at the correct time in their growth phase, aid, rather detract from vigor, potency and yield. Why do we do all these physical LST and HST techniques if not? Environmental stresses are similarly important as plant "stressors". The whole "droughting" crowd understands this (@Krissi1982 , et.al. - "team" not "crowd", sorry @Krissi1982 ). Temperature and RH are just other forms of potential stressors 420 growers use to "condition" their crop. Stress the 420 and the 420 will seek to alleviate the stress, maybe in an interesting and valuable way (or as I say: "Spank them and they will response.").
In mean I like "vanilla ice cream" but there are other flavors more interesting - keeping the same "speculative" environmental condition crop-to-crop is like eating vanilla ice cream every day. I'm a "Rocky Road" fan. Some 420 varieties response well to a "rocky road" of growth with increased vigor, higher potency and better yield.
Therefore, environmental stress or "idealized norm" is neither good or bad, right or wrong, it is just an opinion rather than "imperial rasta ganja dogma". The above chart may be best applied in large-scale professional grows rather than as a "everyone do this" new-age "miracle-gro".
In addition, the above chart is "pretty cool" (in it's rainbow colors and hard-to-read enumerations), however, I do not know if it is more useful as an engineer's guide to proper environmental grow management or as a general reference for idealized transpiration and nutrient delivery under idealized environmental conditions based on questionable assumptions regarding maximum obtainable rates of photosynthesis. In "Engineer-speak".
The "ideal" case is not usually the "real" case - in any "case".
I think you should research online "cannabis leaf surface temperature studies" and check out the information there - don't mind-lock on a certain pretty chart that gets passed around the forum. Finally, do research and mark the assumptions used to create the "rainbow-420-
-chart" - it will make your head swim.There are plenty of times "engineering logic" produced with poorly-made research assumptions has let us down and wilted our path-row of Earthly delights.
All growth phenomena are the results of interaction and balance between several hormones. Specifically, ABA, ethylene and jasmonates which are all involved with plants ability to cope with biotic and abiotic stressors.No, I think many of the leaf temperature studies you find online used "high-priced" thermo-detectors and "expensive" infrared video equipment to measure cannabis leaf surface temps under various lighting and growing-environment temperature conditions (for their LED vs HID/HPS comparison).
You argue cheap measuring equipment: My answer; I think, a lot of the time, the "higher-expense" of the instrument or equipment, in general, only guarantees increased precision, rather than complete and infallible accuracy. I think measuring and laboratory equipment are only as good as the operator and the calibration standards used to "zero" the devices - "cheap" or "expensive".
I would also argue that the majority of growers, by-and-large, do not use this chart in their grows. Therefore it is irrelevant. Temp and humidity can vary significantly, day-to-day - in most amateur small-scale grows, medium-scale amateur grows and outdoor grows. Unless you have a "professionally" sealed grow room with multi-big-dollar environmental equipment, most growers cannot obtain this level of environmental control constantly (so is the chart important? - really? - to most growers here at the 420 website?).
I think indoor environmental engineers mostly use this chart for sizing, paring, and integrating A/C, air handling and dehumidification/humidification systems in professional grows. I do not know if the VPD is a very good management tool for all 420 crops - one size does not fit all.
First, it assumes an "idealized" rate of photosynthesis for max transpiration and nute flow. That is never the case in any type of grow. Plant-to-plant, leaf-leaf-to-leaf, all the time. In fact, if you examine the original research for your chart you will find there were many assumptions made regarding the "actual" rate of photosynthesis on a section of leaf and how those same assumptions changed regarding shaded or sunshade leaves. Their experiemental estimates were made based on "certain" plentiful assumptions. No plant is an idealized hybridized and constant "photosynthesis machine" where all things and plants are "equal".
Next, the chart assumes all 420 plant varieties, 420 species and 420 sub-species, react in the same way to one idealized set of environmental conditions. That is not the case either. Some like it hot and dry, some like it moist and cool (and any derivation in-between). Bad logic to assume all 420 like one "idealized" environmental regime for any particular stage of growth.
Last, I think in "real-life circumstances" you find a lot of variation in professional and amateur goals regarding their "grow". Techniques and methods vary widely. Plant stress is one of the most important cannabis growing techniques with many various methods of application.
For example, it is clear that certain stresses on 420 plants, at the correct time in their growth phase, aid, rather detract from vigor, potency and yield. Why do we do all these physical LST and HST techniques if not? Environmental stresses are similarly important as plant "stressors". The whole "droughting" crowd understands this (@Krissi1982 , et.al. - "team" not "crowd", sorry @Krissi1982 ). Temperature and RH are just other forms of potential stressors 420 growers use to "condition" their crop. Stress the 420 and the 420 will seek to alleviate the stress, maybe in an interesting and valuable way (or as I say: "Spank them and they will response.").
In mean I like "vanilla ice cream" but there are other flavors more interesting - keeping the same "speculative" environmental condition crop-to-crop is like eating vanilla ice cream every day. I'm a "Rocky Road" fan. Some 420 varieties response well to a "rocky road" of growth with increased vigor, higher potency and better yield.
Therefore, environmental stress or "idealized norm" is neither good or bad, right or wrong, it is just an opinion rather than "imperial rasta ganja dogma". The above chart may be best applied in large-scale professional grows rather than as a "everyone do this" new-age "miracle-gro".
In addition, the above chart is "pretty cool" (in it's rainbow colors and hard-to-read enumerations), however, I do not know if it is more useful as an engineer's guide to proper environmental grow management or as a general reference for idealized transpiration and nutrient delivery under idealized environmental conditions based on questionable assumptions regarding maximum obtainable rates of photosynthesis. In "Engineer-speak".
The "ideal" case is not usually the "real" case - in any "case".
I think you should research online "cannabis leaf surface temperature studies" and check out the information there - don't mind-lock on a certain pretty chart that gets passed around the forum. Finally, do research and mark the assumptions used to create the "rainbow-420-
There are plenty of times "engineering logic" produced with poorly-made research assumptions has let us down and wilted our path-row of Earthly delights.
Droughting has the end goal of increasing valuable metabolites such as THC and cannabinoids. Drought response has been observed in many plant species; in cannabis, the drought escape response accelerates flowering in response to drought stress-i.e, the increase of resin production.
The main focus of ABA is to be a promoter of stomatal closure which is synthesized in the roots and mature leaves in response to water stress.
It is important to note the health of your leaves during a drought as ABA is transported from roots to xylem to the leaves before returning back to the roots and the process repeats itself.
Droughting is a delicate balance as a plants plasticity is very important in the transportation and absorption of nutrients and light.
"Leaves are very important to a plant in that they create an avenue where phosynthesis and thermoregulation can occur".
Evolution developed their leaf shape to a myriad of different types to create a means of balancing energy production with the plant's fitness.
The GRN is the Genetic Regulatory Network that is responsible for creating this phenotypic plasticity. It involves a myriad of genes and proteins, including the aforementioned, to regulate its morphology through stress.
@Maritimer Knows more than anyone on this, but I hope that I was able to add something to this conversation as I am still finishing my studies
ppm Charlie
Well-Known Member
Have you written up a journal on this technique yet? You should, if not. I droughted my flowering a bit lately but have no guidepost to tether myself. SPILL...GIRL! Give us the good news...
