Welcome All My Friends To The Show That Never Ends - Canna M & Nismo12 Team Up!

[Nismo12]

Tonight the tutankhamon came down and was a breeze to trim. Fan leaves and anything without trichomes. Once it dries and they go into jars we will snip off the any rogue leaves we don't want. We were having an issue with fast drying in the winter months so we have a humidifier in the drying room to mantain 50% - 55% RH. Just a few ounces hanging.

The Early Miss Auto came down as well and she is a frosty little thing. She will be good for about 35 grams is my guess. Not huge but the buds are boulders.

Tomorrow the Blue dream will meet its makers!

 

[Doc Bud]

Re: Welcome All My Friends To The Show That Never Ends - Canna M & Nismo12 Team Up!

I'll be placing an order for the new stuff once you have it ready to send out.

Monday. It'll be ready on MOnday!

 

[Spookies]

Welcome All My Friends To The Show That Never Ends - Canna M & Nismo12 Team Up!

Ooooh you lucky ducks !

 

[dr.h00k]

Hmmnnn?...could be losing my balance on my fence sitting...LOLOOL....cheerz...h00k...

 

[SLHLover]

This whole High Brix thing is very interesting. Kudos to you all for sharing such valuable knowledge. Since I read about it on this thread I have been researching it and it is very enticing. I have grown outside (bio) but mainly use pure perlite or coco with very few nutes/molasses (please don't lynch me!). I really do like what I grow and the hippies down the road are convinced that my herb is bio and they love it. I dry properly and cure for at least 2 months and every time I am in Holland I always think "my gear is way better". Having said that, I have never had the privilige of smoking any high brix-grown N American herb... I do not doubt the testimonials of members here as to the (much better) quality of high brix grown herb and would love to try growing this way. Unfortunately the materials that seem to be needed are not readily available where I live and ordering via the web would be out of the question (I don't need the unwelcome attention of importing biological material - I'm also pretty sure it would not get through customs). Is there anywhere where I can find instructions on how to achieve the same result with raw materials that I can get my hands on? If not, I will just have to follow the high brix grows of other members with a (very slighly) envious eye.

Nis: I do have one question/comment; Your colas look beautiful but I see in a few of the pics you posted that the very tips of the leaves are somewhat burnt and show early stages of nutirent burn. Is this the soil mix having a v high EC/PPM level or because of the drenches that are used?

 

[Doc Bud]

This whole High Brix thing is very interesting. Kudos to you all for sharing such valuable knowledge. Since I read about it on this thread I have been researching it and it is very enticing. I have grown outside (bio) but mainly use pure perlite or coco with very few nutes/molasses (please don't lynch me!). I really do like what I grow and the hippies down the road are convinced that my herb is bio and they love it. I dry properly and cure for at least 2 months and every time I am in Holland I always think "my gear is way better". Having said that, I have never had the privilige of smoking any high brix-grown N American herb... I do not doubt the testimonials of members here as to the (much better) quality of high brix grown herb and would love to try growing this way. Unfortunately the materials that seem to be needed are not readily available where I live and ordering via the web would be out of the question (I don't need the unwelcome attention of importing biological material - I'm also pretty sure it would not get through customs). Is there anywhere where I can find instructions on how to achieve the same result with raw materials that I can get my hands on? If not, I will just have to follow the high brix grows of other members with a (very slighly) envious eye.

Nis: I do have one question/comment; Your colas look beautiful but I see in a few of the pics you posted that the very tips of the leaves are somewhat burnt and show early stages of nutirent burn. Is this the soil mix having a v high EC/PPM level or because of the drenches that are used?

What part of the world are you in?

If you can get your hands on some Calcium Carbonate, Gypsum and Soft Rock Phosphate you can at least mineralize some soil....

 

[Nismo12]

This whole High Brix thing is very interesting. Kudos to you all for sharing such valuable knowledge. Since I read about it on this thread I have been researching it and it is very enticing. I have grown outside (bio) but mainly use pure perlite or coco with very few nutes/molasses (please don't lynch me!). I really do like what I grow and the hippies down the road are convinced that my herb is bio and they love it. I dry properly and cure for at least 2 months and every time I am in Holland I always think "my gear is way better". Having said that, I have never had the privilige of smoking any high brix-grown N American herb... I do not doubt the testimonials of members here as to the (much better) quality of high brix grown herb and would love to try growing this way. Unfortunately the materials that seem to be needed are not readily available where I live and ordering via the web would be out of the question (I don't need the unwelcome attention of importing biological material - I'm also pretty sure it would not get through customs). Is there anywhere where I can find instructions on how to achieve the same result with raw materials that I can get my hands on? If not, I will just have to follow the high brix grows of other members with a (very slighly) envious eye.

Nis: I do have one question/comment; Your colas look beautiful but I see in a few of the pics you posted that the very tips of the leaves are somewhat burnt and show early stages of nutirent burn. Is this the soil mix having a v high EC/PPM level or because of the drenches that are used?

I personally have not checked the pH or ppm of the drenches or the foliars as we have put them on the shelves since we don't need them. I do know our ppm of the water is less than 5 ppm. But yes I noticed the burn as well but I chalked it up to the strain being sensitive so we didn't push it with strong drenches and foliars. I'm going to chalk it up to 4 months of life and a tad bit of burn isn't bad at all. Doc would be the once to ask how/why it got the burn but I will have to check the ppm of the drenches out of curiosity. The tutankhamon was the only one with burnt tips but the DC and the kosher kush have a bit of Brix burn. Good to know for the future.

It was nice to see while trimming that the branches were solid all the way through and didn't have any hollow spots. No calcium deficiency here.

 

[Doc Bud]

I personally have not checked the pH or ppm of the drenches or the foliars as we have put them on the shelves since we don't need them. I do know our ppm of the water is less than 5 ppm. But yes I noticed the burn as well but I chalked it up to the strain being sensitive so we didn't push it with strong drenches and foliars. I'm going to chalk it up to 4 months of life and a tad bit of burn isn't bad at all. Doc would be the once to ask how/why it got the burn but I will have to check the ppm of the drenches out of curiosity. The tutankhamon was the only one with burnt tips but the DC and the kosher kush have a bit of Brix burn. Good to know for the future.

It was nice to see while trimming that the branches were solid all the way through and didn't have any hollow spots. No calcium deficiency here.

It's very challenging to grow in containers. On the one hand, you want to push the plant to maximize resin, on the other, you have a measly bucket of dirt that isn't always at the right temperature, etc.

Foliar feeding can also cause a bit of burn.

But look at the buds! Look at the resin! Smell it. Taste it. Feel it........There's nothing like it out there. Nothing. I can definitely say that with all sincerity.

 

[Duggan]

What part of the world are you in?

If you can get your hands on some Calcium Carbonate, Gypsum and Soft Rock Phosphate you can at least mineralize some soil....

Yes , this is Doc's old 6/5/3 mineralized soil method. Works great, and that is how i started down this HB path .Cheers Doc and SLH

 

[mouser]

Those bud shots are amazing! Congrats to you both!

New stuff Doc?? I just got my delivery of the old stuff...and havent even bought my bag of ProMix yet

 

[Canna Montana]

It's very challenging to grow in containers. On the one hand, you want to push the plant to maximize resin, on the other, you have a measly bucket of dirt that isn't always at the right temperature, etc.

Foliar feeding can also cause a bit of burn.

But look at the buds! Look at the resin! Smell it. Taste it. Feel it........There's nothing like it out there. Nothing. I can definitely say that with all sincerity.

I don't think we can fully blame the foliar sprays for the burnt leaves on the early miss. The light is an amazing light that could have contributed to the crispness, but I believe the mites played a big role in degrading the leaves by chewing holes in them. Then add light to an already damaged area. The light may have been a bit too close for her liking, but the Royal Creamatic right next to her loved all the light, and she didn't have as many mites. Two different strains with different light needs is what I chalk it up to. Just my two cents though.

 

[Doc Bud]

Those bud shots are amazing! Congrats to you both!

New stuff Doc?? I just got my delivery of the old stuff...and havent even bought my bag of ProMix yet

No one has gotten the new stuff yet.....I'm trying to kill my plants and SLOtown's plants so we don't kill yours!

You're not missing out on anything. No worries. I've only been testing the new stuff for a couple weeks.

I'm always trying to improve, but customers only get what's proven. The folks who get the new stuff first get it as a "beta" anyways, so they can try to kill their plants, etc. Once I am satisfied everyone gets the new formulas. Until then, they get what has worked, not what we're experimenting with.

The old formulas for GE and Trans will continue on for stains that really do well in the soil. The new stuff is for all the crazy hybrids and frankenstrains we all grow.

 

[mouser]

No one has gotten the new stuff yet.....I'm trying to kill my plants and SLOtown's plants so we don't kill yours!

You're not missing out on anything. No worries. I've only been testing the new stuff for a couple weeks.

I'm always trying to improve, but customers only get what's proven. The folks who get the new stuff first get it as a "beta" anyways, so they can try to kill their plants, etc. Once I am satisfied everyone gets the new formulas. Until then, they get what has worked, not what we're experimenting with.

The old formulas for GE and Trans will continue on for stains that really do well in the soil. The new stuff is for all the crazy hybrids and frankenstrains we all grow.

I was just kidding man Im really looking forward to my reset in the fall!

 

[SLHLover]

What part of the world are you in?

If you can get your hands on some Calcium Carbonate, Gypsum and Soft Rock Phosphate you can at least mineralize some soil....

I'm in the eastern mediterranean area. I can definitely get hold of the above. What quantities/ratio should I be using per 10 gallons of earth?

 

[SLHLover]

I personally have not checked the pH or ppm of the drenches or the foliars as we have put them on the shelves since we don't need them. I do know our ppm of the water is less than 5 ppm. But yes I noticed the burn as well but I chalked it up to the strain being sensitive so we didn't push it with strong drenches and foliars. I'm going to chalk it up to 4 months of life and a tad bit of burn isn't bad at all. Doc would be the once to ask how/why it got the burn but I will have to check the ppm of the drenches out of curiosity. The tutankhamon was the only one with burnt tips but the DC and the kosher kush have a bit of Brix burn. Good to know for the future.

It was nice to see while trimming tha
t the branches were solid all the way through and didn't have any hollow spots. No calcium deficiency here.

The buds look adorable. Great work A wee touch of nute burn is not a big deal. I was just curious to know about the EC range that the plants were getting from the foliar feeds and drenches.

 

[Doc Bud]

The buds look adorable. Great work A wee touch of nute burn is not a big deal. I was just curious to know about the EC range that the plants were getting from the foliar feeds and drenches.

It isn't like that, SLH. EC of a solution isn't something we consider at all, neither do we consider pH. The soil by itself won't grow a plant...it needs microbial activity. We add those microbes with a product that is VERY acidic....I've never tested it but I'd say it's about 2 if mixed with RO, much stronger in the bottle. But the minerals in the soil buffer that out and the pH is locked at 6.4.

We feed the soil via the leaves, and the sprays are also very acidic, in order to penetrate the leaf. This adds a bunch of calcium, phosphates and dextrose to the plant, which quickly makes it way to the roots in the form of root exudates, which is what the microbes crave and also what signals them to grab something from the soil....and they change pH on a molecular/cellular level depending on what they're doing.

Between the soil and the foliars, the plants really sprint! Containers are the limiting factor here, as sometimes the plant is blooming so furiously that the small mass of soil can't keep up, so occasionally a few tips get burned a bit.....but not really burned, more like partially digested.

This one very well could show some signs of that before the end:

But as you see, it's fairly healthy for now. It just depends on how hard we push them...if they get a few tips. But it's the resin we're after.....

 

[Duggan]

I love hearing you explain that Doc. It just , never gets old , love it

 

[TheRedDragon]

It isn't like that, SLH. EC of a solution isn't something we consider at all, neither do we consider pH. The soil by itself won't grow a plant...it needs microbial activity. We add those microbes with a product that is VERY acidic....I've never tested it but I'd say it's about 2 if mixed with RO, much stronger in the bottle. But the minerals in the soil buffer that out and the pH is locked at 6.4.

We feed the soil via the leaves, and the sprays are also very acidic, in order to penetrate the leaf. This adds a bunch of calcium, phosphates and dextrose to the plant, which quickly makes it way to the roots in the form of root exudates, which is what the microbes crave and also what signals them to grab something from the soil....and they change pH on a molecular/cellular level depending on what they're doing.

Between the soil and the foliars, the plants really sprint! Containers are the limiting factor here, as sometimes the plant is blooming so furiously that the small mass of soil can't keep up, so occasionally a few tips get burned a bit.....but not really burned, more like partially digested.

This one very well could show some signs of that before the end:

But as you see, it's fairly healthy for now. It just depends on how hard we push them...if they get a few tips. But it's the resin we're after.....

Doc dropping the knowledge on the folks here! Love it

 

[New B]

You have me running after the train!!
I'm hoping on board for my next grow is my plan. Finish this one before I start gathering for the next.

First Grow For Me - So First Journal Also

 

[SLHLover]

It isn't like that, SLH. EC of a solution isn't something we consider at all, neither do we consider pH. The soil by itself won't grow a plant...it needs microbial activity. We add those microbes with a product that is VERY acidic....I've never tested it but I'd say it's about 2 if mixed with RO, much stronger in the bottle. But the minerals in the soil buffer that out and the pH is locked at 6.4.

We feed the soil via the leaves, and the sprays are also very acidic, in order to penetrate the leaf. This adds a bunch of calcium, phosphates and dextrose to the plant, which quickly makes it way to the roots in the form of root exudates, which is what the microbes crave and also what signals them to grab something from the soil....and they change pH on a molecular/cellular level depending on what they're doing.

Between the soil and the foliars, the plants really sprint! Containers are the limiting factor here, as sometimes the plant is blooming so furiously that the small mass of soil can't keep up, so occasionally a few tips get burned a bit.....but not really burned, more like partially digested.

But as you see, it's fairly healthy for now. It just depends on how hard we push them...if they get a few tips. But it's the resin we're after.....

Thanks for this detailed explanation. Although I also get lovely frosty girls, there's no denying the strength and vitality of the buds shown in the pictures on this thread - and going by the comments here the taste is incomparable to other methods of growing. I grew up eating commercially-grown cucumbers, tomatoes etc. Now I am in a place where the fruit and veg REALLY taste like fruit and veg - it's how I imagine the difference in quality is between regular and high brix method of growing. It's a shame that I cannot get the high brix products and do a full-on High brix grow but I will at least try mineralising the earth. What ratio of calcium/gypsum/phosphate would you recommend (or can I find that by going through one of your grow logs in your signature)?