The rice works quickly , I tried it after Gee mentioned it a month or so ago
V4L's Canuk Seeds Comparative Grow: Cherry Pie Fems, LOS, 2023
- Thread starter Vegan4life
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I don't remember him going into fungal dom things. Could be me.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
It does, and they are great teas, but they are feed/microbial ones.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Here is a screen shot of one that looks pretty good, and a great snippet on how to increase fungal inputs on the 2nd pic.
I haven't tried it, but I would be very comfortable using it. It matches a lot of what I already have in my mix.
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- #205
Vegan4life
Well-Known Member
I would think that looking at soil samples under a microscope would be the best way. Microscopy, another rabbit hole... I think I'm going to dive in!
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- #206
Vegan4life
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I saw a similar recipe somewhere, can't remember where? I am definitely going to try it. I made a microbulator for my tea bucket a week or so ago, I need to break it in.
Here is a screen shot of one that looks pretty good, and a great snippet on how to increase fungal inputs on the 2nd pic.
I haven't tried it, but I would be very comfortable using it. It matches a lot of what I already have in my mix.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Nice! Let us know how it works.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Again though, your grow is in pretty darn good shape, so be careful, and patient on the weather.
If the weather gets you back up to 16 or 17, you have some room in case you inadvertently lower the brix on a trial.
At 13, you have no breathing room. I do suspect it will climb back to around 17 though, they look very healthy and stress free.
Weaker teas more frequently work far better than 1 dose. I know I already said that, but it's worth repeating. You don't want to change your whole grow on 1 tea, you want to slowly and steadily get farther ahead.
I cut every tea I make at least 50/50 with RO water, and if it's not enough you can always give them a 2nd or even 3rd dose.
After a couple days of administering the tea, check brix but mostly keep an eye on the calcium line. As you increase vitality with more food, you may start to run your calcium down.
Its a juggling act, but if you get it right, every ball goes a little higher every lap. Then sooner or later you may need to speed the plant up to increase photosynthesis.
At a point, more food won't do that so you start to wiggle the environment. Then when the environment gets optimal for the new speed of the vitality, you start to feed more, or up calcium, or add microbes, which all end in feeding more.
Then you juggle back to environment.
Every piece must be turned up slowly and methodically. If you move one piece to fast, a deficiency pops up and brix crashes, so don't drop a ball
Once you get a feel for it you will be able to juggle food and environment together.
If nothing is working its likely you need more phosphorus or your soil is too wet, so if you hit a wall, check moisture before you start adding phosphorus. Too much moisture makes for too high of a nitrogen synthesis which lowers brix.
Also if you are 17 or above and you hit the wall, it's entirely possible that the strain you are growing has reached it's limit. If so, your weed will be spectacular.
If the weather gets you back up to 16 or 17, you have some room in case you inadvertently lower the brix on a trial.
At 13, you have no breathing room. I do suspect it will climb back to around 17 though, they look very healthy and stress free.
Weaker teas more frequently work far better than 1 dose. I know I already said that, but it's worth repeating. You don't want to change your whole grow on 1 tea, you want to slowly and steadily get farther ahead.
I cut every tea I make at least 50/50 with RO water, and if it's not enough you can always give them a 2nd or even 3rd dose.
After a couple days of administering the tea, check brix but mostly keep an eye on the calcium line. As you increase vitality with more food, you may start to run your calcium down.
Its a juggling act, but if you get it right, every ball goes a little higher every lap. Then sooner or later you may need to speed the plant up to increase photosynthesis.
At a point, more food won't do that so you start to wiggle the environment. Then when the environment gets optimal for the new speed of the vitality, you start to feed more, or up calcium, or add microbes, which all end in feeding more.
Then you juggle back to environment.
Every piece must be turned up slowly and methodically. If you move one piece to fast, a deficiency pops up and brix crashes, so don't drop a ball
Once you get a feel for it you will be able to juggle food and environment together.
If nothing is working its likely you need more phosphorus or your soil is too wet, so if you hit a wall, check moisture before you start adding phosphorus. Too much moisture makes for too high of a nitrogen synthesis which lowers brix.
Also if you are 17 or above and you hit the wall, it's entirely possible that the strain you are growing has reached it's limit. If so, your weed will be spectacular.
Great. On top of all this avalanche of knowledge to absorb, I gotta learn how to fricking juggle too.Again though, your grow is in pretty darn good shape, so be careful, and patient on the weather.
If the weather gets you back up to 16 or 17, you have some room in case you inadvertently lower the brix on a trial.
At 13, you have no breathing room. I do suspect it will climb back to around 17 though, they look very healthy and stress free.
Weaker teas more frequently work far better than 1 dose. I know I already said that, but it's worth repeating. You don't want to change your whole grow on 1 tea, you want to slowly and steadily get farther ahead.
I cut every tea I make at least 50/50 with RO water, and if it's not enough you can always give them a 2nd or even 3rd dose.
After a couple days of administering the tea, check brix but mostly keep an eye on the calcium line. As you increase vitality with more food, you may start to run your calcium down.
Its a juggling act, but if you get it right, every ball goes a little higher every lap. Then sooner or later you may need to speed the plant up to increase photosynthesis.
At a point, more food won't do that so you start to wiggle the environment. Then when the environment gets optimal for the new speed of the vitality, you start to feed more, or up calcium, or add microbes, which all end in feeding more.
Then you juggle back to environment.
Every piece must be turned up slowly and methodically. If you move one piece to fast, a deficiency pops up and brix crashes, so don't drop a ball
Once you get a feel for it you will be able to juggle food and environment together.
If nothing is working its likely you need more phosphorus or your soil is too wet, so if you hit a wall, check moisture before you start adding phosphorus. Too much moisture makes for too high of a nitrogen synthesis which lowers brix.
Also if you are 17 or above and you hit the wall, it's entirely possible that the strain you are growing has reached it's limit. If so, your weed will be spectacular.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Jon I think you will pick it up quickly. Just a guess and a presumption, but I think you are ready for juggling. 1 question first though, Have you ever grown weed before?
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Well I guess we know the answer to the original question. High brix won't deter gnats. We also learned a valuable thing too. SNS products don't appear to inhibit brix. Thats pretty darn cool. Hats off to them!
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Thank You for that V4L
, thats a great tool to have in case brix crash and pests move in.- Thread starter
- #213
Vegan4life
Well-Known Member
That is great to know, as I use SNS 209 weekly...
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- #214
Vegan4life
Well-Known Member
Got it, you are going by my example!Thank You for that V4L
Gee64
Well-Known Member
It's a promising start
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- #216
Vegan4life
Well-Known Member
Sorry I'm a little slow this week...Thank You for that V4L
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I have, AND, for real, I already DO know how to juggle. Lol!Jon I think you will pick it up quickly. Just a guess and a presumption, but I think you are ready for juggling. 1 question first though, Have you ever grown weed before?
Hey @Vegan4life, I had one other Brix question and hope it’s okay to ask here, considering how well developed your conversation with @Gee64 already is? Thanks. I haven’t seen or found anything that addresses this yet, so maybe it’s a dumb question, idk.
When is peak Brix in a perfect world? At harvest, right? So if that’s the goal, when is harvest, and is there any relationship between trichomes and Brix? For example, is peak Brix when all the trichs are all white but no amber? Or 20% amber? Is there any reason to think about a relationship between the two?
Again, thanks for the space!
When is peak Brix in a perfect world? At harvest, right? So if that’s the goal, when is harvest, and is there any relationship between trichomes and Brix? For example, is peak Brix when all the trichs are all white but no amber? Or 20% amber? Is there any reason to think about a relationship between the two?
Again, thanks for the space!
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I have never actually paid attention to that to be honest. I get my brix up as high as I can in veg and by the time stretch is over I don't remove any more leaves.
I would guess that when senescence starts, and the plant switches from eating via the roots, to comsuming the leaves to ripen properly, that brix plummets as the leaves gets drained.
The brix of the calyxes themselves may climb though, and it wouldn't surprise me if their readings climbed right til the end, much like a fruit tree will push sugars to the fruit in the end.
But just a guess.