I reckon you can use an S4 or S6 with that, and just leave out the manual controller that comes with itAirtitan T3
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I reckon you can use an S4 or S6 with that, and just leave out the manual controller that comes with itAirtitan T3
I use the high RH and high temp features on the fan controller. When used with a humidifier inside the tent, and a dehumidifier outside the tent, the controller really is amazing. The only thing I'd like to see, and Amy mentioned this, is to disable the alarm noise if you don't want to hear it.I agree the controller is a bit primitive if you’re trying to get it to do multiple things.
There's not enough leaves there to be blocking the light. The plant is hungry and wants to be fed. How much have you fed her so far?Hope its not the mc and its just light on these very bottom leaves that get like no light
Doing good Roosti. Learning lots today my friend, all of which will most likely be forgotten tomorrow.Afternoon MrS! How goes the day?
I can't help but love the baseball connection you made there!That’s why your my favorite little blue jay!
In the immortal baseball words of Joe Garagiola “ Atta Boy”!I can't help but love the baseball connection you made there!![]()
For anyone interested in a straight monosilicic acid product (with no potassium), there is Alchemist Stout MSA:
Thanks Smokey! I hope things are good on your side.Thanks Mr.S nicely put!
I enjoyed imagining the look on your face when, after researching, you read the label on yours and had the good stuff!Did I know that before I bought it? No! I’m learning all this too and I just happened to get lucky.
And thanks you too.bit of science from the NIH on silica sprays:
The Effects of Foliar Sprays with Different Silicon Compounds
While I haven't researched this, I would think that any Silica product made for hydro will be in a form that's immediately available to the plants.Take potassium silicates as an example. Its molecules are too large to penetrate the plants cell walls. Microbes will have to convert it into silicic acid before the roots can take up the silicon. This process is called silicification, and it can take weeks or months before it occurs in any meaningful amount.
Silicic acid is therefore the most effective silicon additive since it is 100% bioavailable.
I enjoyed imagining the look on your face when, after researching, you read the label on yours and had the good stuff!![]()
That's correct. The biggest issue that hydro systems have is balancing the pH. I've left a link below on a great article on the use of Silica in hydro and the recommended levels. It also goes on to describe the antagonisms that happen when using too much.While I haven't researched this, I would think that any Silica product made for hydro will be in a form that's immediately available to the plants.![]()
IKR! I wish I could have seen it too!!I enjoyed imagining the look on your face when, after researching, you read the label on yours and had the good stuff!![]()
Hi Mr.S things are good except the snow we got last night. I have be debating on witch brand of silica too use for sometime now. Was trying to find monosilic acid here in Canada not alot available and what is available is super expensive. So I was planning on ordering some z9 witch I did but was a few dollars short for free shipping so I added a bottle of Cyco silica going to start at next res change.Thanks Smokey! I hope things are good on your side.![]()
Oof, the 'S' word.Hi Mr.S things are good except the snow we got last night.
It seems to be the best option dollar for dollar. It will be good to hear your thoughts if you find any difference. I swear that using silica stops PM though on indoor grows. I'm seeing the odd leaf now getting it, and each grow I don't use the stuff it appears.so I added a bottle of Cyco silica going to start at next res change.
The important parts are in the middle for hydro grows.Also bookmarked your last link for future reading. Hope you have a fantastic day!