The Perpetual Healing Garden - SweetSue's Joyful Return

Radogast said:
Lovely puffballs. I don't remember that shape from your previous Dark Devil. Maybe I hadn't learned it yet. :)
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I never had one grow like this and I think it may have been the lighting schedule. My first Dark Devil Auto I sprouted and then it went into the tent under 11/13. The others got down even lower towards the end. The one that came closest to this was in an azalea pot, so look what a difference more root space can make. :laughtwo:

She stopped shooting up, so now she has Lots of time to get the buds stacked. I'm gonna try to push her 90 days. If she's ready earlier, all the better. Time to start the next one. Now that she's on a smaller SWICK I've room for the next on to slip in there.

I'm still trying to fall into perpetual mode.
 
welshpony said:
Where did glimmer go? I know she stopped by my journal a few times
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I believe work is getting in the way of her gardening. She may be traveling too.
 
I love watching the trichomes developing.

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Daily Update: Day 39 & 41

It's nice that the day will be quiet. I have so much to work through outside of gardening. Let's take a stroll.

The photo tent.

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They're making their move. Topping within a week. :slide:

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The auto tent. I have no idea why the Auto Jack Herer is making such a fuss. :straightface: I'll keep an eye on her.

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Dark Devil Auto (Day 39) She's settled in at 22" high. Now we watch her build blossoms.

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I'm not seeing any purple yet. This may be the aberrant pheno that doesn't change. I hope not. I really wanted the purple.

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That's all for now guys. Get out there now and spread that joy. I'll see you around the neighborhood in between study sessions.

:Namaste:



 
I'm not seeing any purple yet. This may be the aberrant pheno that doesn't change. I hope not. I really wanted the purple.
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I've heard that the best way to get the color change is to drop temps into mid 70's not sure if this is true or not, just throwing it out there. Im sure someone will now about this or have heard about it.
I'm looking for the article I read this on.........:peace:
 
hydro1000 said:
I've heard that the best way to get the color change is to drop temps into mid 70's not sure if this is true or not, just throwing it out there. Im sure someone will now about this or have heard about it.
I'm looking for the article I read this on.........:peace:
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While I can't be positive about what "purples" a particular strain, I do think temperature makes a difference. However, 70 isn't enough to make that change, IMO. The only really purple buds I've grown were on Pitbull plants outdoors. Once the nights got down cool in the fall (like low 50's - upper 40's), they turned purple in a matter of days.

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This is just for discussion as I may not know what I'm talking about! By adding aluminum sulphate and dropping ph value, I guess also you would have to tone down the nitrogen and phosphorus which they used in this article below to turn flowers from pink to blues. Could this possibly be used for cannabis also, to get the colors early on in veg without dropping the temperature.

Here's the article

Aluminum Sulphate for Hydrangeas
Location: Manchester, Ne
Aluminum is necessary to produce the blue pigment for which bigleaf hydrangea is noted. Most garden soils have adequate aluminum, but the aluminum will not be available to the plant if the soil pH is high (alkaline). For most bigleaf hydrangea cultivars, blue flowers will be produced in acidic soil (pH 5.5 and lower), whereas neutral to alkaline soils (pH 6.5 and higher) will usually produce pink flowers. Between pH 5.5 and pH 6.5, the flowers will be purple or a mixture of blue and pink flowers will be found on the same plant. So, to change the color of the blooms, you need to change your soil\'s pH. It helps to know what the pH is now so you will know how to go about changing it. For instance, if your soil is acidic, 4 ounces of lime around the base of your hydrangea plant can change the pH of your soil by one point. You can add lime in four-ounce increments until you reach the color of pink you desire. You need to try and raise your pH to 6.5. Depending on your soil texture and how acid your soil was to begin with, this can be a long process, taking up to 2 growing seasons if you have an extremely acid soil high in organic matter. Adding nitrogen and phosphorus also aids in preventing the absorption of aluminum and gives a good, clear pink hydrangea color. Conversely, if you have a pink hydrangea and would like to make it blue or purple, you need to lower the pH to make the soil more acid. This can be done by adding aluminum sulfate (or just plain garden sulfur) to the soil around the base of your plant. Aluminum sulfate is available at most garden centers. Follow the label directions carefully and don?t overdo it. In addition, you do not want to add nitrogen or phosphorus to your soil, as these elements help promote pink colors. Since many general-purpose fertilizers contain these elements in large amounts, it is better to add single-element fertilizers such as muriate and potash. Remember that hydrangea color changes will not occur overnight, and are sometimes not predictable. The plants genetics and soil both play a part in manipulating its flower color. It can be very exciting watching the results of your soil amendment and the degrees of color change.
 
If you mean color change, I don't think so. It works on hydrangeas, but not on roses, or any other flower I know of.
Also, if you want to acidify soil, check out Espoma. Excess aluminum in soil is not good. It is usually already there in abundance. It is the acid that is needed, which comes from the sulfur > sulfuric acid.
 
Major PITA said:
If you mean color change, I don't think so. It works on hydrangeas, but not on roses, or any other flower I know of.
Also, if you want to acidify soil, check out Espoma. Excess aluminum in soil is not good. It is usually already there in abundance. It is the acid that is needed, which comes from the sulfur > sulfuric acid.
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Thanks for the clarification Major!
This place way better then google
 
Some info I read about purple cannabis a few days ago:

Step 1: Select the Correct Cannabis Seeds
The first step to getting purple bud is selecting the correct seed. In order to turn purple, your plant must be high in anthocyanin. This is the same pigment that makes eggplant and blueberries purple. Examples of strains that are high in anthocyanin are Blue Mystic, Blue Cheese, Haze Berry, Northern Light Automatic and Bluematic.

Step 2: Create the Correct Temperature
The next step is to create the correct temperature. Anthocyanin is typically hidden by the stronger pigments in chlorophyll. During the fall months, however, the green pigments break down. This causes the anthocyanin to come out. In other strains, it can cause yellow, gold or blue pigments to come out.
During the flowering stage, turn the temperature down during the night cycle. It should sit below 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 degrees Celsius. The bud should begin to purple about two weeks before harvest.
 
welshpony said:
Some info I read about purple cannabis a few days ago:

Step 1: Select the Correct Cannabis Seeds
The first step to getting purple bud is selecting the correct seed. In order to turn purple, your plant must be high in anthocyanin. This is the same pigment that makes eggplant and blueberries purple. Examples of strains that are high in anthocyanin are Blue Mystic, Blue Cheese, Haze Berry, Northern Light Automatic and Bluematic.

Step 2: Create the Correct Temperature
The next step is to create the correct temperature. Anthocyanin is typically hidden by the stronger pigments in chlorophyll. During the fall months, however, the green pigments break down. This causes the anthocyanin to come out. In other strains, it can cause yellow, gold or blue pigments to come out.
During the flowering stage, turn the temperature down during the night cycle. It should sit below 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 degrees Celsius. The bud should begin to purple about two weeks before harvest.
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So genetics are the key, and the colder nights as in the fall.
Can we really control this without simulating the end of the plants life cycle which in turn, the plant will do it anyway if the genetics are there?
 
from what ive ben reading its mostly temp related, my last WW had purple lines on some of the stems because it was fairly cold in the dark period. I know we aim to keep temps between 17-28C but if in the dark period it drops further it could bring it out earlier but may shock the plant a bit and stunt growth maybe
 
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