quemedica
New Member
What you describe sounds a lot like Freezeland and is still very popular up here in Quebec Canada.
The Mountain: Grow Support From The Over 50 Club
- Thread starter uptheholler
- Start date
UncleCannabis
New Member
Thanks Quemedica.
Although I remember the buds being very sativa like Freezeland could possibly be what I'm referring to if it she throws some strong pine smelling / tasting phenos. I see that Hemp Depot has Freezeland seeds available. I may include some of these with my next seed order.
Although I remember the buds being very sativa like Freezeland could possibly be what I'm referring to if it she throws some strong pine smelling / tasting phenos. I see that Hemp Depot has Freezeland seeds available. I may include some of these with my next seed order.
quemedica
New Member
You're welcome UncleCannabis
You got that right, not far off from rolling up a bunch of pine needles! The reason it came around once a year and so late is because it's the ultimate gorilla grow crop. She will thrive long after the birds have stopped flying around looking for gardens
You got that right, not far off from rolling up a bunch of pine needles! The reason it came around once a year and so late is because it's the ultimate gorilla grow crop. She will thrive long after the birds have stopped flying around looking for gardens
uptheholler2
New Member
Hey Kodiak! You are part of the best community on the web. The folks here on the mountain alone have a wealth of experience and this is just one thread. I'll mosey over to your journal and poke my nose around. But so far your looking good!
Hey UncleC! that piney smelling Kentucky bud had been being grown around there for decades. It was in Western Kentucky. If you look over there you are very close to Memphis which was if memory serves me was one of the weed hotspots that the G-men were concerned about. Apparently watching white and black people relaxing, listening to the Blues and blowing J's together offended their sensibilities. Anyhow... I always wondered if this area is where some of this weed came from. I tried to find out from some of the boys where they got their seeds and pretty much they all traded them around just by sharing the weed and just keeping the few seeds that would occasionally be found back in the sinse of the 70's and 80's. It was along road just to get in with these folks but it was ajackpot find for my breeding efforts. Just the fact that the weed they were growing was totally acclimated to it's environment made it a huge score. You are right the flavor and the quality of the stone was superb. Very sharp focused. When I would smoke this on one of those crisp sunny October days in Kentucky it was like having super 3 D vision. Everything just popped.
As far as Hermies taking a strain from me... I had never experienced it before, at least not to this extent. With this variety I always had to watch late in the flowering cycle. In fact you knew you were close to harvest when they started to pop one or two. But this time the entire batch ok seed stock went dramatically hermie 3 weeks from the end. Not good. But I found the path to the weed that I am shooting for. I feel like Fawcett looking for the City of Z! Ha! I do think that there are local varieties all around the USA that need to be tracked down. This includes some wild varieties. Back in 84 I found a patch of interesting wild very Indica looking weed in Wisconsin. Super early flowering, very resiny and also very purple late in the cycle. Decent smell. Little buzz to it...but that can be fixed... I would be interested in seeing if you can create a vigorous hardy plant by adding those local genes. Kind of building the ultimate outdoor variety from the bottom up. Conradino you are spot on the singl biggest problem by far in any private individual breeding program is a lack of adequate plant population sizes from which to choose breeding specimens. But it's still a heck of a fun hobby! Best of luck in all you grow!
Hey UncleC! that piney smelling Kentucky bud had been being grown around there for decades. It was in Western Kentucky. If you look over there you are very close to Memphis which was if memory serves me was one of the weed hotspots that the G-men were concerned about. Apparently watching white and black people relaxing, listening to the Blues and blowing J's together offended their sensibilities. Anyhow... I always wondered if this area is where some of this weed came from. I tried to find out from some of the boys where they got their seeds and pretty much they all traded them around just by sharing the weed and just keeping the few seeds that would occasionally be found back in the sinse of the 70's and 80's. It was along road just to get in with these folks but it was ajackpot find for my breeding efforts. Just the fact that the weed they were growing was totally acclimated to it's environment made it a huge score. You are right the flavor and the quality of the stone was superb. Very sharp focused. When I would smoke this on one of those crisp sunny October days in Kentucky it was like having super 3 D vision. Everything just popped.
As far as Hermies taking a strain from me... I had never experienced it before, at least not to this extent. With this variety I always had to watch late in the flowering cycle. In fact you knew you were close to harvest when they started to pop one or two. But this time the entire batch ok seed stock went dramatically hermie 3 weeks from the end. Not good. But I found the path to the weed that I am shooting for. I feel like Fawcett looking for the City of Z! Ha! I do think that there are local varieties all around the USA that need to be tracked down. This includes some wild varieties. Back in 84 I found a patch of interesting wild very Indica looking weed in Wisconsin. Super early flowering, very resiny and also very purple late in the cycle. Decent smell. Little buzz to it...but that can be fixed... I would be interested in seeing if you can create a vigorous hardy plant by adding those local genes. Kind of building the ultimate outdoor variety from the bottom up. Conradino you are spot on the singl biggest problem by far in any private individual breeding program is a lack of adequate plant population sizes from which to choose breeding specimens. But it's still a heck of a fun hobby! Best of luck in all you grow!
UncleCannabis
New Member
Thanks for the input there Holler.
The way that you describe the effect is exactly the way that I remember it and since I was located along the Gulf coast back then you may be right.
It could have very well been some of that good Kentucky greenage. Back during that time it was said that ganja was the #1 cash crop in Kentucky and I have no reason to doubt it since many of the best domesticated varieties were originating from the Kentucky blue grass mountain valleys. There are families there that have cultivated and perfected the same cuts for several generations essentially making some of the Kentucky strains IBL's.
I'm still going to give the Freezeland a go. There's always the possibility that they are both one and the same or have the same lineage.
The way that you describe the effect is exactly the way that I remember it and since I was located along the Gulf coast back then you may be right.
It could have very well been some of that good Kentucky greenage. Back during that time it was said that ganja was the #1 cash crop in Kentucky and I have no reason to doubt it since many of the best domesticated varieties were originating from the Kentucky blue grass mountain valleys. There are families there that have cultivated and perfected the same cuts for several generations essentially making some of the Kentucky strains IBL's.
I'm still going to give the Freezeland a go. There's always the possibility that they are both one and the same or have the same lineage.
BrownStone
Well-Known Member
Cool thread!
Good info Uncle! What can you Kentucky area growers tell us about the old Killer New Haven that's in Herijuana? We hear about it out here but no one knows much about it.
Good evening,
Last night I finished up going over the post on this thread. There are a lot of tips and tricks in the five hundred or so posts here. However, the value lies in the in depth replies. I enjoy the stories and the underlying wisdom that go with them.
The other three posts in my post count are on Over the Hill. There is a little background information about my setup and grow history there. The first post is here: over-50-club
I have been having some ph problems that began innocently enough. I, on the other hand, have managed to compound a small problem into one where the good news is everybody is still alive and going to live. Truly 6 plants were as near death as any I have ever breathed life back into.
Everything was preventable. I plead guilty to being 50 miles from a freeway, 120 from a Lows, old and lazy.
My earlier up grades were ro water, a PPM, a soil ph meter, and one for liquids. I tested from the input water to the runoff. It was like magic, everything just kind of balanced out. I even ran the filters too long, no problem. It was just too slow. I upgraded to a better one but did not keep up the monitoring.
From about here on I am asking anyone who disagrees with my assumptions to say so. I am not even sure what happened first.
This is my best guess is as to what happened.
Six months to a year ago I blew a ro membrane. This resulted in basically chlorinated city well water with a ph of around 8.7 with a TDS around 120.
Last December and in February I picked up a total of 12 strains as "unrooted" clones. If you don't know, that is a stick in a cube in a cup. $10 11 of them were new to me.
In about the same timeframe I was winding down from a disaster referenced in an earlier post. From that mess I kept two known strains, an unknown sativa hyberd and an unknown California bag seed for fun.
About the time the clones were getting established in 6" pots things were getting weird. I narrowed things down nutrient lockout and fixed the ro problem. But nothing really matched up from looking at deficiency pictures.
A few days later I wake up to a near dead plant. I did all the ER treatment I knew. Next day another plant until about half of my plants were on life support and most of the rest were sick.
As it turned out I was doing two other things that I did not pay nearly enough attention too. First, I switched from b1 to Thrive Alive. Straight out of the bottle that stuff must be about Ph zero. The other was, I switched soils because it was what I could get. It turned out it is/was acidic and had more nitrogen in it than I personally think something labeled potting soil should have.
Three known problems, three timeframes, that is the setup for some questions. Don't worry I am only going to ask one for now.
Is there an upper Ph threshold for calcium and magnesium uptake or other negative effects? If so, what do you look for? I don't want to burn up a lot of time researching something that is not a problem.
TIA
I never know
Best,
Canyon
Last night I finished up going over the post on this thread. There are a lot of tips and tricks in the five hundred or so posts here. However, the value lies in the in depth replies. I enjoy the stories and the underlying wisdom that go with them.
The other three posts in my post count are on Over the Hill. There is a little background information about my setup and grow history there. The first post is here: over-50-club
I have been having some ph problems that began innocently enough. I, on the other hand, have managed to compound a small problem into one where the good news is everybody is still alive and going to live. Truly 6 plants were as near death as any I have ever breathed life back into.
Everything was preventable. I plead guilty to being 50 miles from a freeway, 120 from a Lows, old and lazy.
My earlier up grades were ro water, a PPM, a soil ph meter, and one for liquids. I tested from the input water to the runoff. It was like magic, everything just kind of balanced out. I even ran the filters too long, no problem. It was just too slow. I upgraded to a better one but did not keep up the monitoring.
From about here on I am asking anyone who disagrees with my assumptions to say so. I am not even sure what happened first.
This is my best guess is as to what happened.
Six months to a year ago I blew a ro membrane. This resulted in basically chlorinated city well water with a ph of around 8.7 with a TDS around 120.
Last December and in February I picked up a total of 12 strains as "unrooted" clones. If you don't know, that is a stick in a cube in a cup. $10 11 of them were new to me.
In about the same timeframe I was winding down from a disaster referenced in an earlier post. From that mess I kept two known strains, an unknown sativa hyberd and an unknown California bag seed for fun.
About the time the clones were getting established in 6" pots things were getting weird. I narrowed things down nutrient lockout and fixed the ro problem. But nothing really matched up from looking at deficiency pictures.
A few days later I wake up to a near dead plant. I did all the ER treatment I knew. Next day another plant until about half of my plants were on life support and most of the rest were sick.
As it turned out I was doing two other things that I did not pay nearly enough attention too. First, I switched from b1 to Thrive Alive. Straight out of the bottle that stuff must be about Ph zero. The other was, I switched soils because it was what I could get. It turned out it is/was acidic and had more nitrogen in it than I personally think something labeled potting soil should have.
Three known problems, three timeframes, that is the setup for some questions. Don't worry I am only going to ask one for now.
Is there an upper Ph threshold for calcium and magnesium uptake or other negative effects? If so, what do you look for? I don't want to burn up a lot of time researching something that is not a problem.
TIA
I never know
Best,
Canyon
uptheholler2
New Member
Hey Canyon! You know we all screw up and we all learn. Is there any way to get a couple of photos? I have been working on some different methods of fixing sick plants or boosting flowering plants in their middle and late flowering cycles by coring. Basically what I do in soil imbalance situations is to try to get amended soil to the root zone as quickly as possible. I have been experimenting with different compost and nutrient mixtures. In your case I might add some Ag lime to the mix. I have been experimenting using a regular hand gardening spade which I push into the root ball and wiggle it back and forth creating a wedged shaped slice in the root ball. This I then pack this opening full of my amended medium. I repeat this 3-5 times around the plant. So far I have to say the results have been good on ailing plants due to over fertilization or other nutrient imbalance. The results on the effect on flower development is still out there. So we will see. Best of luck in all you grow!
uptheholler2
New Member
Ok since I am talking about different stuff that I am trying I want to bring up the impact of Repetitive Drought Stressing your plants.
Here's my premise and related observations. I enjoy watching a few plants each year get extremely mature. I enjoy the complex buzz that extremely mature plants develop. I think of it like tree ripened peaches they are absolutely their best right before they begin to rot! My observation is that as the plants mature they are subjected to an increasingly dryer environment with only sporatic rains these conditions are then followed by very cool very dry times. This combination of cold exposure and drought causes the plant to wilt and then during the day it actually recovers. This combination over a period of weeks causes the plant to push everything it has left in it's roots to the flowers in a last desperate attempt to become pollenated and reproduce. In some cases the resin glands almost cover the entire bud as to make it almost unrecognizable. This is also what you observe when you top out your upper colas at harvest and let the lower buds go. You see the same pumping of resin and vigor into those lower buds.
What I am trying to do is replicate that inside. After I have flushed I am subjecting a few plants to such dry extremes as to cause wilting then bringing them back from the edge. I cannot replicate the cold wilting effect so I am going the opposite route and trying some higher than normal temps.
Here's my premise and related observations. I enjoy watching a few plants each year get extremely mature. I enjoy the complex buzz that extremely mature plants develop. I think of it like tree ripened peaches they are absolutely their best right before they begin to rot! My observation is that as the plants mature they are subjected to an increasingly dryer environment with only sporatic rains these conditions are then followed by very cool very dry times. This combination of cold exposure and drought causes the plant to wilt and then during the day it actually recovers. This combination over a period of weeks causes the plant to push everything it has left in it's roots to the flowers in a last desperate attempt to become pollenated and reproduce. In some cases the resin glands almost cover the entire bud as to make it almost unrecognizable. This is also what you observe when you top out your upper colas at harvest and let the lower buds go. You see the same pumping of resin and vigor into those lower buds.
What I am trying to do is replicate that inside. After I have flushed I am subjecting a few plants to such dry extremes as to cause wilting then bringing them back from the edge. I cannot replicate the cold wilting effect so I am going the opposite route and trying some higher than normal temps.
SparkNShred
Well-Known Member
Hello, fellow oldtimers! Long time, no see!
This thread just gets better and better with time. It's especially good to read your posts, uptheholler. Real depth and wisdom.
I took a summer off from growing, to scout out some more stealthy grow spots, after last summer's scares. I'm leery of even talking about them on the forum.
I'm also back on my mountain bike, having fully recovered from the crash of 2013.
It's great to see you all again, and to see the new faces that have joined.
SparkNShred
This thread just gets better and better with time. It's especially good to read your posts, uptheholler. Real depth and wisdom.
I took a summer off from growing, to scout out some more stealthy grow spots, after last summer's scares. I'm leery of even talking about them on the forum.
I'm also back on my mountain bike, having fully recovered from the crash of 2013.
It's great to see you all again, and to see the new faces that have joined.
SparkNShred
Uptheholler, Thanks for the comeback.
I thought you would have some thoughts. I took some poor picks with a cell last night. Of course it is dead now. The smaller ones are easy to move outside and get some better ones. I am also not sure if there are post count restrictions on posting picks here. I went through the do,s and don's.
"You know we all screw up and we all learn." The grow room is supposed to be "Tranquility Base". "Apollo 13" is a much better fit. Hay, they had a hell of a ride and the lived to talk about it.
"coring. Basically what I do..." I have been doing something similar with different goals and used it on most of these plants. The theory is, the longer a plant is in a pot the more settling or compacting you get even if the soil is light weight. Then as they become root bound they start taking up more water. So, add in an environment that is at least 15 degrees high and I get a plant that will wilt in about 40 hours that also really never dries out while in flower. If I start down through the soil typically I have a rather deep tight mat of fine roots, then the next layer sort of has voids in it if you are between the base of the plant and the edge of the pot. Everything below that mostly stays too wet.
This is easier if the plant is a little on the dry side, on smaller pots I take an old water probe or the one in my hand and go around the edge of the pot every two or three inches and really wiggle it around. For larger pots something like a length of rebar works well. The idea is to tear up some roots and kind of make a hole. Then I go over the rest of the ground with the probe at an angle, wiggle and then lift with probe still in the ground until the ground sort of snaps up.
My working premis is that the upper roots grab the water, the nutes and the o2. In the middle layer, the small roots have grown past the root ball and depleted the soil. The bottom gets mostly low o2, water and salts.
When I can after I break things up I let the plant alone for a few hours to a few days. Then I water through. I routinely do this if I top dress a plant. After your input I am going to try adding the top stuff then breaking things up. My goals have been to get more air to the roots and better water deeper.
I want to try a light dose of lime on a larger plant that I am holding back. Would crushing dolomite speed it up?
I have some thoughts on your second post and will organize in another post. However, I am not clear on this.
"I am going the opposite route and trying some higher than normal temps." Is this for all of flower or just after flush?
Thanks.
I was standing around the room last night listening to the plants and as started to leave I heard the leader say "Thank you God we can take it from here. We just need some rest."
All is good.
Best,
canyon
I thought you would have some thoughts. I took some poor picks with a cell last night. Of course it is dead now. The smaller ones are easy to move outside and get some better ones. I am also not sure if there are post count restrictions on posting picks here. I went through the do,s and don's.
"You know we all screw up and we all learn." The grow room is supposed to be "Tranquility Base". "Apollo 13" is a much better fit. Hay, they had a hell of a ride and the lived to talk about it.
"coring. Basically what I do..." I have been doing something similar with different goals and used it on most of these plants. The theory is, the longer a plant is in a pot the more settling or compacting you get even if the soil is light weight. Then as they become root bound they start taking up more water. So, add in an environment that is at least 15 degrees high and I get a plant that will wilt in about 40 hours that also really never dries out while in flower. If I start down through the soil typically I have a rather deep tight mat of fine roots, then the next layer sort of has voids in it if you are between the base of the plant and the edge of the pot. Everything below that mostly stays too wet.
This is easier if the plant is a little on the dry side, on smaller pots I take an old water probe or the one in my hand and go around the edge of the pot every two or three inches and really wiggle it around. For larger pots something like a length of rebar works well. The idea is to tear up some roots and kind of make a hole. Then I go over the rest of the ground with the probe at an angle, wiggle and then lift with probe still in the ground until the ground sort of snaps up.
My working premis is that the upper roots grab the water, the nutes and the o2. In the middle layer, the small roots have grown past the root ball and depleted the soil. The bottom gets mostly low o2, water and salts.
When I can after I break things up I let the plant alone for a few hours to a few days. Then I water through. I routinely do this if I top dress a plant. After your input I am going to try adding the top stuff then breaking things up. My goals have been to get more air to the roots and better water deeper.
I want to try a light dose of lime on a larger plant that I am holding back. Would crushing dolomite speed it up?
I have some thoughts on your second post and will organize in another post. However, I am not clear on this.
"I am going the opposite route and trying some higher than normal temps." Is this for all of flower or just after flush?
Thanks.
I was standing around the room last night listening to the plants and as started to leave I heard the leader say "Thank you God we can take it from here. We just need some rest."
All is good.
Best,
canyon
uptheholler2
New Member
Hey Spark and Shred! It's good to see you are still with us! Without the kind of excitement you have experienced....you wouldn't have any stories to tell!! Hope you get back in the swing of growing soon. It is getting tougher to grow outside every year, which means we have to get more creative.
Hey Canyon, coring as always been a tried and true method in turf grass renovation and from what I have seen so far it has some absolute applications in rescuing ailing plants. It may also help in plants developing flowers early and in the middle of the cycle. You can crush lime to make it more dissolvable. Wear a mask though it is nasty stuff to inhale. I have spread a lot of lime in my days. Yes all of my repetitive drought stressing is done after the flush. Then I usually let them go 48 hours in the dark before harvest. It is important to make your penetrations into the root ball deep enough and large enough to allow a substantial amount of new medium to be introduced or you will not see any impact. Your observations on root development at the different locations in your containers is interesting to note. I usually have fairly uniform root development top to bottom. What I usually look for after harvest is the color and smell of my roots. I want them white to light tan and they should smell like the woods after a rain. I top dress container grown plants several times during a season. Best of luck in all you grow!
Hey Canyon, coring as always been a tried and true method in turf grass renovation and from what I have seen so far it has some absolute applications in rescuing ailing plants. It may also help in plants developing flowers early and in the middle of the cycle. You can crush lime to make it more dissolvable. Wear a mask though it is nasty stuff to inhale. I have spread a lot of lime in my days. Yes all of my repetitive drought stressing is done after the flush. Then I usually let them go 48 hours in the dark before harvest. It is important to make your penetrations into the root ball deep enough and large enough to allow a substantial amount of new medium to be introduced or you will not see any impact. Your observations on root development at the different locations in your containers is interesting to note. I usually have fairly uniform root development top to bottom. What I usually look for after harvest is the color and smell of my roots. I want them white to light tan and they should smell like the woods after a rain. I top dress container grown plants several times during a season. Best of luck in all you grow!
big fisher
Well-Known Member
looks great
SparkNShred
Well-Known Member
Mmmm...Durban Poison. Love that stuff. Nice choice, and nice plants, too.
Uptheholler
"Coring..." Ok you have caused me to actually realize just how long I have lived in high deserts. There were machines that they ran over lawns that popped plugs out of the ground. Then you spread out whatever and raked it in. I always thought they were mostly fighting compaction.
I am already making holes in the ground. It seems more than reasonable to put something in them.
I am waiting for a plant to wilt. It is the one in the back in post 579. BTY it is not Durban it is Kosher Kush. I am going to try light watering with dissolved lime, watch it for a while, then water it through. I have another that is a clone from the new genetics (Scot's OG) that I have already flowered the mother. It was cut on 4/1 and is about 25 inches tall. The Plant structure its self is similar and appears to have reacted about the same. It is not apples to apples or KK to Jew's Gold. But, I will watch them.
On the heat stress topic, how close are you to pulling the trigger on trying it? If you have more than one plant you are working with, give some thought to icing one of them down.
I have a few shots and will get more to talk over later.
I am happy to toss around a lot of topics and answer any questions I can.
However, I have put up more than my share of ink here for a newbie. I am starting to feel like the guy who shows up with a 6 page post and 50 questions.
I am enjoying myself but it is time to ease off on starting posts for a while.
Thanks for the bumps, it took me a while to figure out why some of my posts had strips on them.
I never know
Best,
canyon
"Coring..." Ok you have caused me to actually realize just how long I have lived in high deserts. There were machines that they ran over lawns that popped plugs out of the ground. Then you spread out whatever and raked it in. I always thought they were mostly fighting compaction.
I am already making holes in the ground. It seems more than reasonable to put something in them.
I am waiting for a plant to wilt. It is the one in the back in post 579. BTY it is not Durban it is Kosher Kush. I am going to try light watering with dissolved lime, watch it for a while, then water it through. I have another that is a clone from the new genetics (Scot's OG) that I have already flowered the mother. It was cut on 4/1 and is about 25 inches tall. The Plant structure its self is similar and appears to have reacted about the same. It is not apples to apples or KK to Jew's Gold. But, I will watch them.
On the heat stress topic, how close are you to pulling the trigger on trying it? If you have more than one plant you are working with, give some thought to icing one of them down.
I have a few shots and will get more to talk over later.
I am happy to toss around a lot of topics and answer any questions I can.
However, I have put up more than my share of ink here for a newbie. I am starting to feel like the guy who shows up with a 6 page post and 50 questions.
I am enjoying myself but it is time to ease off on starting posts for a while.
Thanks for the bumps, it took me a while to figure out why some of my posts had strips on them.
I never know
Best,
canyon