I use about 1/2 cup of hot water from the tap to dissolve for about 15 seconds and then fill with cold tap, which this time of year is probably 45°
The Mega Crop Thread
- Thread starter bluter
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As Shed alluded to here, I use 1 part Mega Crop and I never have, nor never would use Bud Explosion.
This ^ except Im in a colder climate.
Chuckeye
Well-Known Member
I use 1 gallon milk jugs to mix, easier to carry 
Turn tap on full Hot and fill until the faucet is warm, adjust to middle position (single handle faucet) and continue...
I do run my MC through a coffee mill grinder first to homogenize the little balls !
The initial blast of hot water/pressure helps to completely dissolve 6g of MC by the time the jug is full
18#'s so far
Cheers
Turn tap on full Hot and fill until the faucet is warm, adjust to middle position (single handle faucet) and continue...
I do run my MC through a coffee mill grinder first to homogenize the little balls !
The initial blast of hot water/pressure helps to completely dissolve 6g of MC by the time the jug is full
18#'s so far
Cheers
I just mix it in a one gallon jug of aged water (at least 24 hrs)and feed almost immediately. It has just a few undissolved white flecks but I haven't seen any issue come from it.
My plants grow fine and the only thing that I noticed is a bit of a salty looking buildup on the top of my ProMix by harvest time.
I believe that I have the newest version of MC.
It's the 9-6-17 version.
Someone please let me know if they put out a new one since.
My plants grow fine and the only thing that I noticed is a bit of a salty looking buildup on the top of my ProMix by harvest time.
I believe that I have the newest version of MC.
It's the 9-6-17 version.
Someone please let me know if they put out a new one since.
- Thread starter
- #4,565
probably. they put out new versions and stuff it into the old bags...
mine recently turned into goo. i have to solve for that now.
The older stuff I had went gooey really easy. V2 or maybe V3. I don't remember.
The stuff I'm using now does not seem to hold onto the moisture as much.
I just keep mine in a amber mason jar.
How long has Greenleaf been a sponsor here for?
I've been using it for a long time and my best plants have been grown with MC.
- Thread starter
- #4,567
mine looked like brownie mix. i have some other stuff that was at my folks place i hope to use.
they sorta popped up and paid for about 20 seconds. i think that's over now and the mods forgot to lock the thread again. this might be the last few posts for a while lol
yeah i've had great luck with it as well. i do get the odd plant that just won't work with me on it, but that's not limited to mc either.
Looks like they are still listed as a sponsor.
- Thread starter
- #4,569
i can't find them ..
Greenleaf nutrients
i have the 2 part and out of all the ingredients its the nitigen balls that take time to desolve . in the two part i add the part a and everything desolves into the water virtually before it hits the bottom and after 3 or 4 stires of my bluelab wand there are just little white balls left at the bottom but very small as the 2 part nitrogen is ground up finer, when i add the part b which is nitrogen and calcium it takes ages to desolve and if i mix a bucket of nutrients that has to go in two seperate plant buckets i have to use a air stone first in the nucket of nutrients to fully desolve the nitrogen. i am thinkingof gettinmg a wave maker for a fish tank to cause trhe water on my res to have more current flowing in it to desolve them better .
i have also thought about contacting them and asking if they can use a different chelete or what ever thye use to be a mr UV resistanmt chelete as the one they use is not the best for uv resistance if you us UV in your bio hydro setup. using a different chelate ingrediant would make it better for hydroponics using uv in the system to combat bad bacteria. i have a rdwc with a fish tank canister filter with a uv light that uv's the intering water before going through the filter and back out to the plants. reason being any baddys get killed before they enter the filter and any that do get eaten by the goodies in the filter and then round to the plants with a few goodies allowed to pass through for the roots, if i have to add bacteria i just turn the uv light off for the day let the bacteria get the the filter then turn the uv back on. at the moment i dont use uv as the mega crop does not use the best chelate for UV light. ponds get a filter and a dialy dose of uv light where the clear water is and the bottom of the pond contains the good fighting the bad so their is no harm in using uv light if done right and used before the filter, so any good bacteria in the filter can also make it to the roots where we want them to be . rememebr if you dose with more bacteria though you have to turn it off for the day so the bacteria make it through to the filter as uv kills all bacteria it does not discriminate.
i have also thought about contacting them and asking if they can use a different chelete or what ever thye use to be a mr UV resistanmt chelete as the one they use is not the best for uv resistance if you us UV in your bio hydro setup. using a different chelate ingrediant would make it better for hydroponics using uv in the system to combat bad bacteria. i have a rdwc with a fish tank canister filter with a uv light that uv's the intering water before going through the filter and back out to the plants. reason being any baddys get killed before they enter the filter and any that do get eaten by the goodies in the filter and then round to the plants with a few goodies allowed to pass through for the roots, if i have to add bacteria i just turn the uv light off for the day let the bacteria get the the filter then turn the uv back on. at the moment i dont use uv as the mega crop does not use the best chelate for UV light. ponds get a filter and a dialy dose of uv light where the clear water is and the bottom of the pond contains the good fighting the bad so their is no harm in using uv light if done right and used before the filter, so any good bacteria in the filter can also make it to the roots where we want them to be . rememebr if you dose with more bacteria though you have to turn it off for the day so the bacteria make it through to the filter as uv kills all bacteria it does not discriminate.
Their IG disappeared a while back (along with a bunch of other people and me) and you can barely find anything on them there anymore.
I use their 2 part now. It solves the problem of it turning to sludge because when the parts are separate they don’t coagulate like that. It’s easy to measure and works like a champ.
My 2 little bags were a pay shipping only type freebie and I’ve grown like 6 plants already with them
The balls still don’t dissolve that easy but warm water or just 30 seconds of shaking solves it. Not really an issue
if i mix a bucket of nutrients up to share between two plants i have to use asn airstone for a few hours to get the nitrogen balls top deslove other wise the second plant would get all the nitrogen .
having been to grow shops and looked at the proces of all their products and also the name brands i and all the different bottles you have to buy i think green leaf have given us gardeners exactly what we want a one part solution we dont haver to mess with and have a major in science to work out how to use all those bottle in the best way. least green leaf have done that and have managed to just put everything in it that we would get from our compost pile . i am a bit disapointed they did not use silica in there 2 part , but the one part i had with silica in it absorbed all the moisture and went wet and clumpy which i think was partly due to the silica absorbing the moisture in the air when i left the top off once and it just went horrable although still usable i grew one grow with it like that and decided to get some more but they change the 1 part ratios so went with the 2 part instead , aparently their changing the ratios for 2025 too hope the new 2 part includes silica and fulvic acids fulvic does make a differenc if used right just dont use humic with it i got a pack of fulvic b ut it had huic with it and it clogged the roots up they all turned black literally like black noodles which ment the roots could not abosrb any nutrients , desolved fulvic for hydroponics is what you want or let the humic settle when you mix the humic and fulvic options and just poor the fulvic which is goldy colour suspended in solution in the grow and throw the sediment in the bottom of the jug on the garden its not good for hydroponics humic is meant to aid the break down of organic material where as fulvic helps with keeping nutrients cheleted and ready to be absorbed by the plant. and yes i got the fulvic as it binds the nutrients and keeps them chelated so i could use my UV light reason being if the uv light breaks the bond with the chelate on the iron then as soon as it passed through the filter it would meet a fulvic acid goodie and chelate again with a fivic acid particle . fulvic exists so when the humic as helped break down the organic matter into nutrients through bacteria the fulvic then binds withe the nutrients so they dont bind with each other and nutrolised themsleves from been used by the plants its like a nutrients body gaurd against all the other nutrients wanting to cling to it.Their IG disappeared a while back (along with a bunch of other people and me) and you can barely find anything on them there anymore.
I use their 2 part now. It solves the problem of it turning to sludge because when the parts are separate they don’t coagulate like that. It’s easy to measure and works like a champ.
My 2 little bags were a pay shipping only type freebie and I’ve grown like 6 plants already with them
The balls still don’t dissolve that easy but warm water or just 30 seconds of shaking solves it. Not really an issue
thats what happpend to me with the 1 part last bag i had it wejnt moist and clumped together and one of the ingreidents desloved making it all wet . it still worked and i grow one grow with it but decided to go with the two part sionce they did change the 1 part ratios from the one i had, but since thye have also siad the bags dont contain the right information then who knows what the real ratios are acording to my ratio part a is 8-12-28 or 8%-12%-28%and part 2 is 15.5% nitrogen and 38% calcium or 15.5 nitrogen-38 calcium. i have it in rubber sealed tupper ware boxes and its been fine so far. but i think its maybe cause of the silica in the mix that absorbes moisture in the air as it happened when i left the top off for the day by accident on the 1 part and it went horrable to use a clump slimy brown mess. as far as i know silica gell absorbs miosture and feel if you leave the top off in nurtients that contain silica you will allow it to abosrb water and become slimy.
the 2 part does not have the silcia in it so does not absorb miosture and become slimy. it still grows i had it happen to me and kept using it but it was hard to mix as it was all clumpy and slimy , but it did grow a grow with no problems as it has chelated ingrediants as long as their not exposed to UV light they will keep the nutrients from bonding together even though its wet and slimy.Their IG disappeared a while back (along with a bunch of other people and me) and you can barely find anything on them there anymore.
I use their 2 part now. It solves the problem of it turning to sludge because when the parts are separate they don’t coagulate like that. It’s easy to measure and works like a champ.
My 2 little bags were a pay shipping only type freebie and I’ve grown like 6 plants already with them
The balls still don’t dissolve that easy but warm water or just 30 seconds of shaking solves it. Not really an issue
Not sure about the latest version but v2 barely had any silica in it anyway!
If you want silica grab some monosilisic acid (MSA).
yea its not cheap although i know you dont have to use much . found it in bulk and organic too
will this do ?
Sea-Silica - Eutrema
The only organic silicon fertiliser in the UK. Use our unique silicon fertiliser to your make plants physically stronger and more resistant
eutrema.co.uk
it can also be used to ph up as well.
Greenleaf Nutrients
420 Sponsor
You choose one or the other. If you are running concentrated feeding programs (like injector), you need to use the 2 part to keep them separated and fully soluble. The 2-Part also allows growers to customize their ratios/NPKs exactly so it allows more flexibility and customization.
The 1-Part can be used in hydro, but 1-Parts cannot be fully dissolved easily at high concentrations needed for injectors systems. The 1-Part also has a lot more organics as ingredients, which soil and media growers can more take advantage of.
tl;dr Both the 1-Part and 2-Parts can be used for hydroponics or soil. They each have their own advantages/disadvantages which you can consider when deciding to pick one to use. You only need to use one of them, since they are complete base nutrient products (not both)
1-Part can be used fully for hydroponic. It has sufficient Nitrate nitrogens, solubility and can be used with amazing results in hydro.
If you are using Fertilizer Injector or concentrated feeding programs, as many commercial locations do, then the 2-Part would be the best choice.
We do not do with Mega Crop or base nutrients. Right now the Sweet Candy is the only product that we are using old bags for, because the product is low on that and its very expensive to custom print fresh bags. The reason it will turn into "goo" is from moisture getting in (not properly sealed) and/or heat exposure and high humidity.
We got banned from Instagram in October, despite 100+ other accounts and fertilizer/grow equipment companies doing the exact same thing we are doing. We are currently making legal demands to Meta/Instagram to restore our account, and will take legal action against them if not restored quickly.Their IG disappeared a while back (along with a bunch of other people and me) and you can barely find anything on them there anymore.
I use their 2 part now. It solves the problem of it turning to sludge because when the parts are separate they don’t coagulate like that. It’s easy to measure and works like a champ.
My 2 little bags were a pay shipping only type freebie and I’ve grown like 6 plants already with them
The balls still don’t dissolve that easy but warm water or just 30 seconds of shaking solves it. Not really an issue
The 2-Part cannot have silica in it. We previously did have it, but removed it. Silica does not dissolve well with other base nutrients at high concentrations, so it disrupts the 2-Parts ability to be fully soluble quickly in concentrate, which is a critical function that it needs to do since the 2-Part is widely used in concentrated fertilizer injector large scale grow operations. The 1-Part does have Potassium Silicate in it.
With that being said, we did add add/increase Kelp extract into the 2-Part to compensate for this, since that is fully soluble easily, and can offer amazing benefits to the plants.
thanks for the info and keep up the good work ,
so i can buy a bag of one part for my next grow and try it out see how i go?. the myth of alot of p in cannbis fertilizers is why it does not have a high P ratio ?
and also when i go into flower my leaves are going rusty spotted and fading to yellow like they are at the end of flower and as i use the 2 part plus your bud explosion addative and acording to mixing guides you have online i need 60g of part a and 50g of part b and then i can add 22g of with first flower doage of bud explosion. i am trhinking of just doing both 60g for part a and part b with 22 of bud explosion as its either natrogen or calcium or magnesium or manganese calcium addative adds calcium and mangesium but to increase manganese i would need to increase part A so i dont think its that its more calcium, magnesium or nitrogen , i thought it may be heat and light burn but my leaves are only 24-26c with tent roughly about 1c lower than leaf temp so its not cause of the light causing topo much heat on the leaves .
i was thinnking
1-4 weeks veg dose of part and b no bud explosion
4-8 weeks flower dose of part a part b ( at moment i am putting in bud explosion in this stage )
6-8 weeks flower dosage of part a and b and low dosage of bud explosion
8-10 weeks flower dosage of part a and b and higher late flower dosage of bud explosion
i have only used you nutrients the last 3 grows the 1 part did well alway through but took time to desolve as you said . but know the last 1 and half grows i have used part a and b with bud explosion and like i say the leaves go yellow and have rusty spots which started since i used this two part and i think its cause i am dosing flower nuts too early maybe not use bud explosion till starting mid flower or keeping the ratio of part b higher instead i am stuck between those two options and can only really sort it next grow the damage is done now i can only try and stop it getting worse whch is hopefull when i get my new rdwc setup later today and do the nutrients i will put the same ratio of a and b and add early flower bud explsion which untill i get the new system and now how many litres it is all together i wont know till then . but lets say its my current system i will put part a 60g and part b 60g and budx i will use the early flower dosage which would be 22. which raises my nitrogen and clacium by 10 g which will hopefully be the reason for the rusty spots and yellowing.