The Mega Crop Thread

nivek said:
so, i am thinkin, again,, oops,,

different amounts of mega crop required for different stages of growth,, many different stages of growth equals many different required amounts of mega crop fert per watering cycle

so, i am thinking y'all or some of y'all have many different stages of growth at any one time so i am again thinkin y'all have a technique for dealing with this issue.

such as,, starting with a batch at full strength and then diluting down for the youngers and diluting even further for the wee ones

ant thots or ideas to assist me??

thanks heaps in advance for the assistance,, most appreciated

:thanks:
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I use the auto pot system and run the same strain. At the beginning I premixed 2g/gal batch and fill 24 water bottles which should get me through the seedling stages. Then I dump that and up the batch to 4g/gallon for the next 24 water bottles. By the time I'm done those I'll be set up to the resevoir an adjust that amount to what the plants are asking me to give then
 
FelipeBlu said:
There are loads of references, but you can start HERE
:surf:
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Maybe this is just over my head, because I can't make any sense of this. once they get past the explanation of ppm, my brain glazed over lol. This may be the starting point, but I'm already completely lost. Thanks for the effort, tho. It does seem like this is focused on how to set up injectors for an automated system, so maybe I'll find just a simple explanation of the science to give me a precursor to the actual mixing and distribution of chemicals
 
SauronBlue said:
you want lots of N for veg, and a bit extra phos for bloom.
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Plants don't need anywhere near as much P as most nute manufacturers provide. And the need for N doesn't drop in flower. You may notice that MegaCrop provides a single ratio of NPK throughout the entire life of the plant, proving that plants don't need an ever-changing mix of this bottle and that bottle.
 
InTheShed said:
Plants don't need anywhere near as much P as most nute manufacturers provide. And the need for N doesn't drop in flower. You may notice that MegaCrop provides a single ratio of NPK throughout the entire life of the plant, proving that plants don't need an ever-changing mix of this bottle and that bottle.
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Looking for info about NPK, I literally just finished reading this before coming back to look for any responses, LOL.

"As cannabis plants transition into flowering, macronutrient requirements swing in the opposite direction. That means switching to bloom base nutrients and adjusting the NPK ratio. A highly effective NPK formula is 1-3-2 for early to mid-bloom, followed by 0-3-3 for late bloom. Add a final flush of pure water and/or light flushing solution during the final week for flavour. Then, it’s time to harvest. P & K dictate the quantity and size of bud, respectively.
Thus, tapering off N levels while simultaneously increasing P & K is the primary grower objective. Too much nitrogen late in bloom spoils the sinsemilla. Buds will taste harsh and just won’t smoke as smoothly as a thoroughly-flushed stash. Leave out the N altogether for the final 20-30 days."
(NPK: What Is The Best Ratio For Growing Cannabis - Cannabis Grow Guide)

Everywhere you look, you find a different answer. I'm just getting more and more frustrate, because extra effort is producing no better results or clarification on ANYTHING lately. I'm just gonna smoke a bowl, watch a movie, and try to take my mind off it. I can feel myself slipping back to the strategy of just do what I'm going to do, and let whatever lives, live. It's survival of the fittest when I reach my wits' end
 
Any website that tells you that you can flush nutes from the buds and make your weed taste better by feeding it straight water at the end is completely wrong, so I can't see any reason I would believe the rest of the information.

Rather than look for answers in the written word on random websites, look at the grows of folks who have used MegaCrop for many grows and see how they're doing.
 
spoils the sinsemilla???
 
InTheShed said:
By keeping the MC low and using boosters to maintain your NPK ratio, are you worried about missing out on all of the micronutrients that MC provides at the correct dose for flowering (which is 6.0-6.5 g/gal)?
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First of all, just 4 days into the transition after the flip, I am not flowering... still vegging. I am at the upper end of the dosage for vegging and have been steadily increasing at least on every other watering to get here. Knowing that as we actually transition into bloom the nutrient needs take a large uptick, the next watering will be with the MC at the flowering rate of 5 and I plan to increase that rate at half a gram per gallon on every other watering, until I get up to 6g/g. Did I miss something where it has been recommended that we go up to 6.5? I have heard people going as high as 8, but it seems I have also heard of those people having problems.
For now, I am fairly closely following the directions right off of the website, and it seems to be doing a great job for me. I am giving the sweet candy supposedly to take care of all those micronutrients that might be missing, and am trying hard to find that line between giving just enough and too much.
So, no... at the moment I am not scared of missing out on something and see no signs that I have been doing so. At what rate do you run MC right out of the flip??
 
SauronBlue said:
Looking for info about NPK, I literally just finished reading this before coming back to look for any responses, LOL.

"As cannabis plants transition into flowering, macronutrient requirements swing in the opposite direction. That means switching to bloom base nutrients and adjusting the NPK ratio. A highly effective NPK formula is 1-3-2 for early to mid-bloom, followed by 0-3-3 for late bloom. Add a final flush of pure water and/or light flushing solution during the final week for flavour. Then, it’s time to harvest. P & K dictate the quantity and size of bud, respectively.
Thus, tapering off N levels while simultaneously increasing P & K is the primary grower objective. Too much nitrogen late in bloom spoils the sinsemilla. Buds will taste harsh and just won’t smoke as smoothly as a thoroughly-flushed stash. Leave out the N altogether for the final 20-30 days."
(NPK: What Is The Best Ratio For Growing Cannabis - Cannabis Grow Guide)

Everywhere you look, you find a different answer. I'm just getting more and more frustrate, because extra effort is producing no better results or clarification on ANYTHING lately. I'm just gonna smoke a bowl, watch a movie, and try to take my mind off it. I can feel myself slipping back to the strategy of just do what I'm going to do, and let whatever lives, live. It's survival of the fittest when I reach my wits' end
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In a field that is continuously evolving with new grow methods, techniques and fertilizers, and one where information previously was not able to be shared freely among growers, it makes no sense to rely on almost half century old writings as the "guides" to anything that is happening today. It is no wonder that the modern grower is frustrated, trying to find the middle ground between the things that I write and what Cervantes and others wrote so long ago. It is a brave new world my friend... time to modernize your sources.
 
Emilya said:
First of all, just 4 days into the transition after the flip, I am not flowering... still vegging. I am at the upper end of the dosage for vegging and have been steadily increasing at least on every other watering to get here. Knowing that as we actually transition into bloom the nutrient needs take a large uptick, the next watering will be with the MC at the flowering rate of 5 and I plan to increase that rate at half a gram per gallon on every other watering, until I get up to 6g/g. Did I miss something where it has been recommended that we go up to 6.5? I have heard people going as high as 8, but it seems I have also heard of those people having problems.
For now, I am fairly closely following the directions right off of the website, and it seems to be doing a great job for me. I am giving the sweet candy supposedly to take care of all those micronutrients that might be missing, and am trying hard to find that line between giving just enough and too much.
So, no... at the moment I am not scared of missing out on something and see no signs that I have been doing so. At what rate do you run MC right out of the flip??
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6.5 is about the highest I've seen used successfully with MC. Not with the supplements that most growers use to create toxicities, but MC alone.

Sweet Candy has very few of the micro-nutes that MC has, so read the bag and compare carefully. Also be very careful about your NPK ratios and N levels. The supplements were designed for MC v1 and can be very dangerous to plants using v2+. I've seen a number of folks burn their leaves with them.

Also keep in mind that the amount of P needed in flower is much smaller than other nute manufacturers suggest.

I'm at 5.5 at the end of veg and transition to flower. Once I see buds forming I go to 6.0, and 6.5 to see if I can get tip burn during the main bulking period.
 
InTheShed said:
Any website that tells you that you can flush nutes from the buds and make your weed taste better by feeding it straight water at the end is completely wrong, so I can't see any reason I would believe the rest of the information.

Rather than look for answers in the written word on random websites, look at the grows of folks who have used MegaCrop for many grows and see how they're doing.
Click to expand...
Flushing makes no difference in finish that I have ever seen
 
SauronBlue said:
Looking for info about NPK, I literally just finished reading this before coming back to look for any responses, LOL.

"As cannabis plants transition into flowering, macronutrient requirements swing in the opposite direction. That means switching to bloom base nutrients and adjusting the NPK ratio. A highly effective NPK formula is 1-3-2 for early to mid-bloom, followed by 0-3-3 for late bloom. Add a final flush of pure water and/or light flushing solution during the final week for flavour. Then, it’s time to harvest. P & K dictate the quantity and size of bud, respectively.
Thus, tapering off N levels while simultaneously increasing P & K is the primary grower objective. Too much nitrogen late in bloom spoils the sinsemilla. Buds will taste harsh and just won’t smoke as smoothly as a thoroughly-flushed stash. Leave out the N altogether for the final 20-30 days."
(NPK: What Is The Best Ratio For Growing Cannabis - Cannabis Grow Guide)

Everywhere you look, you find a different answer. I'm just getting more and more frustrate, because extra effort is producing no better results or clarification on ANYTHING lately. I'm just gonna smoke a bowl, watch a movie, and try to take my mind off it. I can feel myself slipping back to the strategy of just do what I'm going to do, and let whatever lives, live. It's survival of the fittest when I reach my wits' end
Click to expand...

Shades of the past. This is what I went through when I started growing. Even the manufacturer, General Hydroponics, had conflicts in the instructions on their website, feeding charts, and the bottles. From what I hear this is not uncommon. I had to make a decision, and live with the results. Luckily, I went with the bottles, and used a percentage of that. It wasn't my best grow, but I got enough to last until I reaped another harvest.

It's the same with Mega Crop. You'll find folks using it in different ways. Some add the supplements, others, like me, don't. Some will push it beyond the 6.5gm / gal, others stay within that guideline.

My advice is start low, and go slow with the increases. Have some cal/mag on hand as that's the most common deficiency I've seen, or read about. I use General Hydroponics' CALiMAGic at 1 ml per 15 gms of Mega Crop. It's what works for me under LED lights, and in coco/perlite. You may or may not need the cal/mag, but it's good to have on hand.

Start the grow, and see where it takes you. If you have problems, we'll help solve them. Don't let yourself get caught in the supplement rush. Go without for your first grow with Mega Crop, and make any supplement additions during future grows when you know what the base product does for your plants.

One other thing I discovered, is adjust the pH as you normally would for your substrate (soil, soil less, hydro). Just because Mega Crop uses amino acids instead of salts to chelate the nutrients, does not mean you can let this run amok. All the things we did while using other nutrient lines still apply. We just swapped nutrient lines and saved a ton of cash. We didn't change the needs of our plants.
 
InTheShed said:
The supplements were designed for MC v1 and can be very dangerous to plants using v2+. I've seen a number of folks burn their leaves with them.
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So far... so good. I need confirmation on this statement and although I have seen you say it several times, if it were my website and I was only shipping ver 2, I would make damn sure my feeding calculator was accurate for what I was putting out there. I am working under the assumption that GLN is using standard business practices, and that the numbers that I am working with are accurate. The only change that I am inclined to make at the moment with what I have is to grind up those dang balls ... on average all that stuff may work out fine when you are working by the scoop full, but when you are mixing up 1-3 gallons at a time, it is easy to choose to get a bunch of balls or go light on them... and I just dont want to be responsible for that decision.
 
is mega mass the same idea as mega crop?

Nutrients ⋆ Mega Mass Plant Products

Nutrients Nutrients are the foods for your plants in your grow room. We use the highest quality ingredients to make or nutrients so you will end with the highest quality product. Our products are proudly made in Canada with the utmost care. At Mega Mass Plant Products we simplify the...
www.mymegamass.com
 
Emilya said:
So far... so good. I need confirmation on this statement and although I have seen you say it several times, if it were my website and I was only shipping ver 2, I would make damn sure my feeding calculator was accurate for what I was putting out there. I am working under the assumption that GLN is using standard business practices, and that the numbers that I am working with are accurate. The only change that I am inclined to make at the moment with what I have is to grind up those dang balls ... on average all that stuff may work out fine when you are working by the scoop full, but when you are mixing up 1-3 gallons at a time, it is easy to choose to get a bunch of balls or go light on them... and I just dont want to be responsible for that decision.
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I don't have time at the moment to gather up the links to growers who have burned their plants using the supplements, but carcass comes to mind immediately (sorry carcass!). But you don't need to see the effects, you can do the numbers yourself and see how the ratios come out. I think Dutch is using a very small amount of one of them (BE maybe?), but still, check the ratios and see if you're within range. Farside posted his calculator a while back.

Since you have been growing LOS for a while, I would think this recent foray into nutes would be easier if you just went with the basic feed chart for MC on the GLN site, rather than trying to be the "advanced grower" mentioned in their FAQ and adding a range of supplements.

I mix 3 gallons at a time so I figure my ball-to-powder ratio is balanced, but if I was working with small amounts I would definitely grind.
 
SauronBlue said:
Maybe this is just over my head, because I can't make any sense of this. once they get past the explanation of ppm, my brain glazed over lol. This may be the starting point, but I'm already completely lost. Thanks for the effort, tho. It does seem like this is focused on how to set up injectors for an automated system, so maybe I'll find just a simple explanation of the science to give me a precursor to the actual mixing and distribution of chemicals
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Yes, it does get pretty deep. What works for mixing for injection works for small-scale though, so it’s a good introduction to the math. I figure other growers appreciate getting information from a fact-based source, rather than skewed data from an interested marketing department.

If you’re looking for ratios, you should know that there’s only slightly fewer opinions than growers. But the latest version of MegaCrop is 1.5-1-2.8. Late Growth dosage from the GH Flora Series (a lot of good grows using this!) DTW feed chart is about 5-1-5, and Mid-Bloom (without Liquid KoolBloom) is about 4-1-3 (with is about 1-1-2).

Added to this are the natural strain- (and even pheno-) related variations.o_O
 
InTheShed said:
I don't have time at the moment to gather up the links to growers who have burned their plants using the supplements, but carcass comes to mind immediately (sorry carcass!). But you don't need to see the effects, you can do the numbers yourself and see how the ratios come out. I think Dutch is using a very small amount of one of them (BE maybe?), but still, check the ratios and see if you're within range. Farside posted his calculator a while back.

Since you have been growing LOS for a while, I would think this recent foray into nutes would be easier if you just went with the basic feed chart for MC on the GLN site, rather than trying to be the "advanced grower" mentioned in their FAQ and adding a range of supplements.

I mix 3 gallons at a time so I figure my ball-to-powder ratio is balanced, but if I was working with small amounts I would definitely grind.
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Let me be clear... I am not having ANY problems. I am pushing this stuff hard, and condolences to @carcass and the others, but that isn't happening in my garden. And, let me also be clear that I am not new to using nutrients and indeed would call myself an expert in the Fox Farm nutrient line as well as an advanced grower by any standards, and if and when I run into trouble with one of these amendments, I will be sure to know exactly what is going on and will be able to adjust to it.
As far as running the numbers goes, GLN themselves just recently changed the numbers and I defy anyone to declare publicly that they know for a fact what the true and correct numbers for each stage of the grow need to be, or as GLN has done, a single number that will work for the entire grow. It seems a few of you have found a number that works for you, but exchange out a few things from your garden and mine, put my light in for yours, use a version of my soil, and all of a sudden those numbers that work for you might change. I don't believe in there being a certain number... I believe in reading my plants and adjusting to their needs, and each variety and strength of plant is going to have different needs.
I have a plan to use my BE especially hard on this run and I just described that final plan on my current journal. Feeling influence from all of your warnings, I had decided to be timid with the stuff until I got a very well meaning heads up that alerted me to my mistake.
Let's all watch together as I ignore the numbers, ignore the warnings about v2 vs v1, ignore the advice to adjust pH and insist on using my ugly tasting city tap water. I hope I don't burn up my plants, but if I don't... if I end up getting buds like MrSauga on my first MC sail around the lake, maybe you all need to rethink this timidity thing a bit.
 
You sure do get your back up quick.
 
As I mentioned, I was quoting their website: "Advanced growers can add in a PK booster during flowering phase..." And if you were offended by that phrase, you could have just said so.
 
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