Hydroholic
Well-Known Member
There are a few people running MC in hydro.
The Mega Crop Thread
- Thread starter bluter
- Start date
skipeye
Well-Known Member
You need to pH MC in hydro... no if's and or's about it.
Ganjagrandaddy
Well-Known Member
These are BlackBerry. very distinctive look to themI been calling her Blackberry but come to fine out Blackberry is more Indica. I have more Sativa's. I don't know what to call her. She is drinking 6g MC, 5ml PT and 5ml Mg. Best grow I've had yet. Next time I will train them in some way.
Ganjagrandaddy
Well-Known Member
Back at you Dutch. have a great xmas and the same to all the thread user. I hope you xmas is full of bounty and family fun.Merry Christmas everyone! I hope you have an amazing time with family and friends and be safe over the holiday!
Some frosty goodness to start the holidaze off right! One Love and Stay Medicated
merry Christmas.
@bluter Merry Christmas and hoping your New Year is green and plentiful!
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
MrSauga says you must, and not being a hydro person I will default to his superior knowledge, but all the white papers I read on amino chelated nutrients says that as long as you are between 8.0-5.0 the MC will still work, but these papers do also speak about a peak level of nutrient availability in a narrower pH band, similar to the 2 ranges we are used to in salt chelated nutes. I think what I am reading is that as long as you stay in reasonable bounds, MC will work, but if you pH it into the exact zone near the internal pH of the plant (6.1) it becomes more efficient.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Well, I should have said as long as you stay within the reasonable limits of 5-8pH ... you would have to work pretty hard in hydro to get out of that wide range and get to 9
In hydro you need to be at 5.8 to 6.0 with MC. Iron is a common def in hydro when run 6.1 or higher. Lower than 5.8 and you start to lose Mg which shows almost right away as well. @West Hippie has perfect examples of this right now.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
And just for fun, I challenge anyone to find anything on GreenLeaf Nutrients published documents that mentions having to adjust pH.... I think this goes to show that we are forging new ground with our collective work here at 420Mag.
Conversely, is there anything that says you don't have to?
There's a lot we don't find on there unfortunately. It also doesn't say you don't have to pH the nutes.
EDIT: oops, I was too slow.
Hydroholic
Well-Known Member
4th bullet point in FAQ's
"Nothing! Since it is a true complete formula, you do not need any other products to get the best results possible. You may want to add some pH adjuster to make sure the nutrient solution being delivered to the plants is between 5.5-6.5 pH for best absorption, this depends on your water supply and is unique to each individual farm."
Hydroholic
Well-Known Member
I read this when I bought. This is also why I have PH’d every single time.
You beat me.
Hydroholic
Well-Known Member
Almost had it. Gotta be quick.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
ok... so lets examine what is being said there now that I challenged you all to find it, and we encounter this amazing statement that puts a big huge pH swath right between our two well known ranges, centered in at 6.0, or as I earlier stated, 6.1, the internal pH of the plant... for best absorption. Incredibly however, this very same statement claims that you actually need nothing else to get the best results possible from MC, and that little statement is what sent me looking for the white papers. They were saying that you could adjust if you wanted to, to this huge zone of pH centered in an odd spot, or you could get by with doing nothing else at all. This actually was one of the huge selling points of MC, it's simplicity.
For best results, best absorption, to get the very very fastest growth possible, get your pH centered in on the plant itself. But do you need to? ... apparently not unless you are wildly out of the larger range published in the papers that it works from 5.0-8.0 with a band of higher efficiency.
Does it change anything to try to stay close to 6.1 pH? I am betting that the brief problems with magnesium that I have had twice on my current grow have to do with my refusal to adjust pH and simply use tap water, but as advertised, I really needed nothing else... the plant sorting things out each time on the next watering and got on with life with no continuation of the deficiency. If I had been adjusting pH anywhere close to that inner hot zone, I bet that I never would have seen even the brief deficiencies.
In a hydro grow, where everything is immediately related to what is in the mix and available to the plants, I can see where it looks to be more important to make this adjustment as water/nutrient levels fluctuate, so I concede that in hydro you might want to stay close to the plant in pH. In soil at least, it looks like if you are willing to put up with a couple of brief flare ups, which they added Mg to try to solve, things are not nearly as critical.
For best results, best absorption, to get the very very fastest growth possible, get your pH centered in on the plant itself. But do you need to? ... apparently not unless you are wildly out of the larger range published in the papers that it works from 5.0-8.0 with a band of higher efficiency.
Does it change anything to try to stay close to 6.1 pH? I am betting that the brief problems with magnesium that I have had twice on my current grow have to do with my refusal to adjust pH and simply use tap water, but as advertised, I really needed nothing else... the plant sorting things out each time on the next watering and got on with life with no continuation of the deficiency. If I had been adjusting pH anywhere close to that inner hot zone, I bet that I never would have seen even the brief deficiencies.
In a hydro grow, where everything is immediately related to what is in the mix and available to the plants, I can see where it looks to be more important to make this adjustment as water/nutrient levels fluctuate, so I concede that in hydro you might want to stay close to the plant in pH. In soil at least, it looks like if you are willing to put up with a couple of brief flare ups, which they added Mg to try to solve, things are not nearly as critical.
The statement is referring to the title of the bullet point "What other supplements or products should I run with Mega Crop". Its just saying it a complete nutrient. It has nothing to do with pH.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I don't interpret it the same way after reading the scientific papers on the product. This question needs to be asked of our rep.
