The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

Gee64 said:
So my soil PH. It's low. To be honest, once flower starts I rarely do anything other than some LST and the odd brix check, so it is entirely possible that every grow lowers PH at this point, but I haven't seen it. If this is the 1st time, its pretty much gotta be the mulch.

So heres my dilemma....

I purposely don't use mulch until flip so the roots don't get up into the top 1.5" or so of the pot. All the EWC and topdressing from veg is there. Some of it leaches down, but a lot of it is still there. It's my stretch battery.

So if I remove the mulch I will injure new feeder roots for sure, right at stretch. If I leave it alone, maybe it lowered my PH or maybe the plant/myco system did because thats what the plant dictated.

I am leaning towards letting it be and watching.

The plants aren't perfect, but they are generally healthy and brix is slowly creeping back up with the added light.

They are drinking well and increasing their water intake every day, and every time I turn up the light they say thanks. They just aren't praying yet and they should be.

Drinking is my main concern. If its good the plants are usually good.

So do I strip the mulch or let them be?

The mulch is composted Douglas Fir bark and wild salmon guts. So nutritionally speaking, its Da Bomb. Outdoors it works wonders. This is my 1st time using it in a pot.

What say you all?

My stash is very large so I don't need the weed, and if it goes south I do need the worm food so thats not a factor, should we watch and do bi-weekly soil PH's, or strip it?
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How are you checking your soil ph?
 
Jon said:
Where can I find stuff about your spikes? What they do, why, how to create them in a pot - all that good stuff? I’m sure you covered this before, yes?
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From the book 'True Living Organics' by the Rev.
 
Azimuth said:
From the book 'True Living Organics' by the Rev.
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You can find the first version of TLO online.. I may actually have an ebook version @Jon However the current 2nd version is only for purchase.

The first version will explain everything that’s done and why.. the second version has updated recipes, more pictures and a bit more information. I recommend both if you’re antsy or just jump right into the second. Rev is eventually gonna drop a 3rd version but it’s already late and no one knows when it will be
 
Jon said:
Where can I find stuff about your spikes? What they do, why, how to create them in a pot - all that good stuff? I’m sure you covered this before, yes?
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The recipe itself is straight out of Rev's book. I have used them in a lot of different mixes, even commercial mixes, and they always work good.

To be honest I haven't tried messing with any other spike recipe, I haven't had time and they cover the N-P-K pretty good with lots of traces.

They are minerals and greens but no browns so the greens don't burn hot in the soil.

You punch holes in the soil, I use bamboo, and then fill the holes. I try for 4 tablespoons per hole. I also don't fill it all the way up.

I leave it a half inch below the top because the minerals repel water so if its down a bit, water pools on top and it soaks in.

You place them in the fresh soil that doesn't yet have roots in it. The root must find the spike.

Roots surround the spikes. They form feeder root towers around the spikes, feather-duster like that rootball I dissected, but a tower around each spike connected to the tap by a few big arteries.

Its pretty cool. 4 featherdusters in a featherduster.

So all those roots add exudates to the spikes, exudates being carbon, and the microbes attack, mixing the greens and browns (exudate carbon) and the spikes get control-composted into food.

You know, if you really want to know whats happening.

Pretty much every pot of everything, indoors or out gets them.

I have tried EWC spikes once when I was out of one of the spike ingredients but these spikes worked better.

EWC actually worked pretty good though, but the roots didn't surrond it the same.

If EWC is all you have, the pot will do quite a bit better with it than with nothing.
 
Keffka said:
It could be a thousand things good, bad, indifferent. Do you appear to be having calcium issues, or any other glaring problems?
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No none, other than my temps are down a bit. Its 72F in there today. Soil is down to 68F. Thats what I need to fix 1st I think.

I put the heater and a floor fan in today.

The leaves are good. The plants are moving water quite well. No purple stress.

I think its just something between the mulch and the soil. If 2 pots are already better I bet the other 2 come around.

Fish is fungal heavy and fungus likes lower PH, but we will see I guess. I'll check daily.

I added 25% extra calcium to this mix. Dolomite, gypsum, and oyster shells.

So far the plants haven't lost a single leaf. The one shorty that was running hot has a slight bit of stress on one very bottom leaf, but it has a 6.2PH.

The only knock I can put on the plants is that they look a bit water-fat, and look sluggish, but are actually growing quite well and unsluggishly. They are right on par for stretch. Just fat. The leaves are still really bendable.

The water-fat look is likely a cold temp thing. This light runs a lot cooler than my last one. 4 degrees at least.
 
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It only took an hour to get temps up in the air. Hopefully in a couple days the rootballs will be warm too.

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This is how fast leaf temps rise with air temps. This is the VPD for the 3 that run normal.

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This is the VPD for Shorty who runs hot.
 
Gee64 said:
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The Old School Purple Kush are finally Kushed out. The trichs say they are ready.

Two are hanging, the third is half trimmed, and this one goes tomorrow.
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What a beautiful and majestic looking plant!
 
Thanks for the stuff on spikes you guys. Helped a ton. I get it. Gotta start reading the Rev. Sorry Ayn Rand. As of now you take a back seat, I’ll finish you later. I have lots of how to type questions but sounds like reading the reference material first will waste a lot less time. Gracias.

So I’m sorry @Gee64, I honestly feel like a dummy, but I still don’t understand the why and/or what advantages it gives you to take all the colas from one node. I feel like I should get it but I don’t. Could you please help me out and explain it like I’m two instead of 58? Or send me to a reference material spot? Thanks.

😤
 
Jon said:
Thanks for the stuff on spikes you guys. Helped a ton. I get it. Gotta start reading the Rev. Sorry Ayn Rand. As of now you take a back seat, I’ll finish you later. I have lots of how to type questions but sounds like reading the reference material first will waste a lot less time. Gracias.

So I’m sorry @Gee64, I honestly feel like a dummy, but I still don’t understand the why and/or what advantages it gives you to take all the colas from one node. I feel like I should get it but I don’t. Could you please help me out and explain it like I’m two instead of 58? Or send me to a reference material spot? Thanks.

😤
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It makes an even canopy with even distribution of nutes. No apical dominance. I'm not sure where I learned it, it was so many years ago. Maybe from Nebula Haze?
 
Gee64 said:
lol not! I remember when Skunkweed 1st came on the scene and quarter ounces were just a part of a bud, full ounces were a bud and a chunk of a bud. That was almost too big😎
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I want that skunk I had it years ago so fkn tight and it fluffed up so well and a good stone nice taste too 🤤🤤
 
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