The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

Azimuth said:
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I’m pretty skeptical on the 6-9 range, I’ve seen spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies for example still munching at those levels contrary to what they say here…
 
But to their point about having higher brix plants nearby you may still see plants still at a decent range but lower getting bugs which would make sense for my outdoor garden areas….
 
budnoob3 said:
I’m pretty skeptical on the 6-9 range, I’ve seen spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies for example still munching at those levels contrary to what they say here…
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I have proven both mites and thrips are quite comfortable at 8 brix.
 
Azimuth said:
I have proven both mites and thrips are quite comfortable at 8 brix.
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lol, exactly my friend - not the kind of comfort any of us want either :) time for another bong rip I think..
 
And if they hated sugar so much why doesn’t my foliar with molasses deter them??? Should I melt down a cup of simple sugar and dilute for a foliar and try that lol
 
Rip attained!

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budnoob3 said:
I’m pretty skeptical on the 6-9 range, I’ve seen spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies for example still munching at those levels contrary to what they say here…
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The way I read it is you need to be over 9, so 10 and above to escape these. Either way 13+ is the goal, and I'm living proof of that. There are no infestations anywhere in my yard, and I give grasshoppers their own class too, I classify them as Assholes🤣🤣🤣.

The video does explain carbon sequestration quite well. Half the sugar you make out of carbon dioxide from the air gets put into the soil. Once you are 13 and above the plant can support itself completely so you start to store more faster as the plant is running optimally so it snowballs in sequestrations favor.

Thanks @Azimuth thats a great video👊
 
Gee64 said:
Tea is a dangerous game, especially if it has calcium and nitrogen in it. Thats why my teas are generally microbe boosts, just molasses, EWC, and some kelp to destress everything. If you add any feeds expect burned leaves unless you are very careful and cut it properly.

Calcium in a tea magnifies everything, it jacks the electricity up and if nitrogen is in the tea it hits hard.

Nitrogen plus the added O2 that calcium brings with soil conditioning creates nitrous oxide, or NO3. Plants require it but too much is volatile.

Dangerous game. Put the food in the pot and add microbes so myco can manage the release rates.
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Interesting, thanks! I have just been commenting in my own journal about teas. I'm very glad to have read this.
Gee64 said:
Minerals, on the other hand, added to a microbial tea work really well. Just be careful adding meals. Blood and alfalfa are the most dangerous 2 meals in teas.
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I was just talking about alfalfa!
Gee64 said:
The other one. Fire smoke looks like it's back😓.
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Oh no ☹️
Gee64 said:
and I give grasshoppers their own class too, I classify them as Assholes
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Me too!
 
I love my teas, every two weeks with a nicely diluted tea has been good to me. To your point I’m a less is more guy so I haven’t caused much burn in my days so far….
 
Ok, you’ve all got me convinced to do this drouting thing for last 11 days for at least a couple plants this run :) couple questions, do you do a flush/drench before starting? Have link(s) to share? Any other recommendations not covered typically based on your experiences?
 
budnoob3 said:
I love my teas, every two weeks with a nicely diluted tea has been good to me. To your point I’m a less is more guy so I haven’t caused much burn in my days so far….
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Yeah thats the key, a steady supply of low ppm is far better than feast and famine at high ppm's.
 
Another point on my less is more strategy. I haven’t ever really posted much on synthetics or hydro but did experiment with both for a few runs. When I did I always cut the recommended values in half to start with and gradually increased as necessary but never ended up as high as the full recommended values. I know many who ended up better than I following the recommendations more closely, and also know many others that ended up with crispy critters with small buds by overdoing it. Just my .02 again .
 
budnoob3 said:
Another point on my less is more strategy. I haven’t ever really posted much on synthetics or hydro but did experiment with both for a few runs. When I did I always cut the recommended values in half to start with and gradually increased as necessary but never ended up as high as the full recommended values. I know many who ended up better than I following the recommendations more closely, and also know many others that ended up with crispy critters with small buds by overdoing it. Just my .02 again .
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I know how synthetics work, but I have no practical experience with them.
 
RVDV QuadMumma.
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I think she has forgiven me.😊

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No detriment yet from the root dunking.

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Two future clones🥰.

Miss Stick and the LC18's - Day 40' and 31.

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The manifold shaping is going well. The root dunks have greened everything up vibrantly. No detrime t on any of them yet.🤞😊

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Little LC #3. Super green new growth.

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Miss Sticky. Sorry it's a lousy pic. She is almost neon green. I need to see the newest growth open up to see if the mag issue goes away, but judging by her color shift to neon, the dunking had a positive effect. Hopefully the dunking will get the dolomite active.

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LC#1. Not as vibrant, but still a noticeable improvement.

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LC#2, in between 1 and 3. Her growing tips look a bit stressed.

All in all the training is coming and the 1st and worst root dunk didn't go too badly.

Fingers crossed for a few more days til they dry down. 🤞
 
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