The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[Keffka]

Thank you so much, I love the long educated posts. Much respect.

You’re in the best place on the internet for it. Honestly, the people here are half the reason I know what I know.

The level of knowledge and experience is ridiculous.

@Azimuth is super clever and is working toward a completely closed and sustainable system while doing the grunt work of figuring out SIPs and organics.

@StoneOtter grows gorgeous plants at a blistering pace

@Stunger proves all the time you don’t need much space to grow great organic cannabis

@Melville Hobbes and I have had conversations that have driven me to more research papers than anyone or anything else, and he can debate them well and respectfully.

I know I’m forgetting others as well but they were some of the first people I met that impressed me with their experience and knowledge.

 

[Azimuth]

If the soil can supply adequate P then the fleet will grow because the plant is now capable of supplying the carbon to the microbes so myco will deliver the carbon to the areas high in P and the microbes will mine it, however the plant also requires P to consume, so if the soil has adequate P to boost the fleet as needed and supply the plant nutritionally then you are off and running. If not the plant will start to eat the dump trucks.

Presumably that's what I'm doing when I top water in my F&F, but I guess we'll find out over the next week or so.

Slightly fuzzy is better but you need quite fuzzy to really be safe so keep the dolo water flowing, and if you can increase it's regularity in your watering routine without over watering you should, as in if you are using dolo every 3rd watering, go every second time for awhile, not as in extra waterings to make the soil too wet again.

I've been watering in every other day with both dolo water and F&F, about 1T/L of each and that's the rate the older plant seems to be on. The newer plant may have just reached that pace as well and it gets the same mix. I'm trying to keep the ppm's down below 85 based on what I read in the new TLO book.

I would hit it now, the sooner you get brix up the better it's odds of staying up.

Roger that. Next watering it is, either tonight or tomorrow.

Now we are talking, but I would wait until you are steadily over 12 for at least 2 weeks with a fuzzy line so you know that if it goes backwards its a sip thing, not that it was just the molasses. You need to know if brix will hold on it's own, otherwise your not there yet. If it holds, then try a change.

2 weeks. Ok, can do.

Cool Azi, even if brix drops again don't be discouraged, just make the next tea with molasses and EWC to see if more microbes assists.

Will do.

Because microbes are 1 of the 5 main parts, it's as essential to boost their numbers early as it is to start mining P early, and have adequate calcium early to properly supply electricity and tilth, so this is why I usually do a microbe tea at the 3-4 week mark when starting from seed.

I ws thinking right at/after flip but I can do it earlier. I'm going to build my new SIP this week and it's a couple of weeks early to pot-up the new clone so I was going to plant 2-3 bean seeds to start the nitrogen fixation and build the myco population.

Maybe I'll hit it a week after pot-up instead of my plan to do it at flip.

Any signs of deficiency yet?

Very little so far. I've had one big central leaf that showed mutiple deficiencies including P but it never spread and that leaf was partially damaged by touching the light in veg so I figured the plant was just harvesting it for resources since it was already damaged.

I may be seeing the earliest signs of N deficiency building on the lower leaves but not much and I'm only 2-3 weeks from harvest so not too worried about it. The rest (Ca, P, K ) should all be coming in in a steady stream with my waterings. I may mix it up and give some of my veg formula or even some fish ferts if I see it progress, but it'd have to be in the next couple of waterings since I'm planning on a drought right at the end so there's not much time left for any new inputs to break down enough to be worth it.

Also if it stays over 12 you may start to smell the difference in the room.

Yeah, still not noticing much on that front. Have to get my nose right into the flowers so it would be nice to get that ramped up as well.

 

[g-one-three]

So I have a question that maybe I've over looked, what does everyone store their soil in to be reused? It would be awesome for me to save my soil, mostly because I feel like the Gaia Green nutes don't fully break down throughout a grow and just throwing that soil out is wasteful. Also after @Keffka posted about how the microbes adapt to my personal environment (which is something I never thought about until just now), I think I should start saving it. I don't have a place to store it outside in the yard but I could do a large tote in my garage easily enough if possible.

 

[budnoob3]

If you’re like me and keep some worms in your soil and keep it moist in an area that won’t go below 45 deg F or so then just use bins or whatever you have that can store it. Worms will survive above 40 deg hence why in cold times I also cover with heavy moving blankets just in case I lose power or it’s my outdoor compost pile that I keep worms in as well….

 

[budnoob3]

Azimuth, love all the info you shared but just wanted to point out 2 huge takeaways that stood out for me. Your point about seed germination and how soaking and putting in paper towel will affect/remove the natural microbes etc to paraphrase. That made 100% sense to me because every year I’ve done what I called the bean bonanza surprise in my thread I had noticed the quality of my surprises always impressed me more than the ones I soaked, topped etc without understanding why. And now I’ve completely forgotten the second stand out but it is all great info!

 

[budnoob3]

I’m still back at page 10 so I’m gonna take a walk on down by the river and stfu for a bit while I read

 

[Gee64]

Presumably that's what I'm doing when I top water in my F&F, but I guess we'll find out over the next week or so.

Exactly. Hopefully F and F is enough. That would be pretty cool

I've been watering in every other day with both dolo water and F&F, about 1T/L of each and that's the rate the older plant seems to be on. The newer plant may have just reached that pace as well and it gets the same mix. I'm trying to keep the ppm's down below 85 based on what I read in the new TLO book.

Ok maybe do 2 or even 3 dolo waters in a row, then start back to alterating. Just gotta get calcium up a bit more. Then its just maintaining after that.

Roger that. Next watering it is, either tonight or tomorrow.


2 weeks. Ok, can do.


Will do.


I ws thinking right at/after flip but I can do it earlier. I'm going to build my new SIP this week and it's a couple of weeks early to pot-up the new clone so I was going to plant 2-3 bean seeds to start the nitrogen fixation and build the myco population.

Once at 3-4 weeks after myco has established ups microbes early. Any earlier and they may devour myco if it's not well established, then again either right after uppotting for flower, or if you don't need to uppot then about the day of flip has them jacked when stretch starts. Stretch is the hardest thing on a plant.

Maybe I'll hit it a week after pot-up instead of my plan to do it at flip.


Very little so far. I've had one big central leaf that showed mutiple deficiencies including P but it never spread and that leaf was partially damaged by touching the light in veg so I figured the plant was just harvesting it for resources since it was already damaged.

If the light hurt it bad the plant will suck it dry.

I may be seeing the earliest signs of N deficiency building on the lower leaves but not much and I'm only 2-3 weeks from harvest so not too worried about it. The rest (Ca, P, K ) should all be coming in in a steady stream with my waterings. I may mix it up and give some of my veg formula or even some fish ferts if I see it progress, but it'd have to be in the next couple of waterings since I'm planning on a drought right at the end so there's not much time left for any new inputs to break down enough to be worth it.

If you think it's there then it is. I would use fish, it makes nitrogen and it keeps fungii happy. Keep that brix up, you can try a potion the up 'n commer and do it preemptively, like about 10 days ago. Mark that on your calendar. I'd fix this one with fish. Keep pushing it.

Yeah, still not noticing much on that front. Have to get my nose right into the flowers so it would be nice to get that ramped up as well.

You will need a week or 10 days of high brix to really see changes likely. Let the dump trucks do a few laps and the plant will plug holes by its own priorities until it's 100% healthy by it's own assessment. Like everything in organics, it takes 10-14 days and your a few days in now.

Thats why the earlier the better, then just maintain. Your potions will be great maintainers if you start them pre-emptively and figure out ppms.

Once you harvest at high brix your used soil will jumpstart the next round.

Almost there, maybe you even are

 

[Gee64]

So I have a question that maybe I've over looked, what does everyone store their soil in to be reused? It would be awesome for me to save my soil, mostly because I feel like the Gaia Green nutes don't fully break down throughout a grow and just throwing that soil out is wasteful. Also after @Keffka posted about how the microbes adapt to my personal environment (which is something I never thought about until just now), I think I should start saving it. I don't have a place to store it outside in the yard but I could do a large tote in my garage easily enough if possible.

I use 102 litre black totes with the yellow lids. They hold 20 gallons each. Used soil is the best part of a new mix. It innoculates everything to right where you were at harvest.

 

[budnoob3]

Brain is bleeding, had to step away from river to ask a question. I often tell people not to worry about minor pest damage or lower leaves dying off etc because observationally to me it’s all part of the process and my plants look hideous by the time I reach the 30%-50% amber mark before harvesting based upon my personal tastes and preferences. I know it can’t be summed up in a short post but can anyone here summarize and provide links/sources for further research to help understand the scientific why?

 

[JiggiLotus]

I stick it in a homer bucket and spray fungicide here n there but not enough to soak anything. Just so it doesn't grow anything when it sits and dries out. The shed outside can dehydrate anything when it's summer time.

 

[Gee64]

Brain is bleeding, had to step away from river to ask a question. I often tell people not to worry about minor pest damage or lower leaves dying off etc because observationally to me it’s all part of the process and my plants look hideous by the time I reach the 30%-50% amber mark before harvesting based upon my personal tastes and preferences. I know it can’t be summed up in a short post but can anyone here summarize and provide links/sources for further research to help understand the scientific why?

I don't have links but if you are letting your trichs amber up then you are deep into scenescence.

The plant stops drinking and is almost dead and really, your into the pre-curing stage so the plant pulls everything from the leaves that it can for one final push and only worries about ripening with what it pulls from the leaves.

It can't pull from the soil because it has stopped or almost stopped drinking. So it starves to death robbing it's leaves to ripen the calyxes. It's an annual so it's old, worn out, and dying. It consumes itself trying to continue.

If that's what you are asking about then google plant scenescence and you will find tons on it.

If you like clear trichs you may only see some color but no cannabilization, and milky trichs you will see lots of color and likely some leaf drop and lower canniblization.

Heavy amber and there's not as much left for trimming

 

[Gee64]

When I flip to flower, if I have 10 week plants I try to get them 8 weeks in as best as I possible can, all my fingers crossed and counting down daily, and then after 8 weeks they just get water and they spiral until the trichs are ready.

You guys have probably noticed by now that I don't remove damaged leaves, they are the 1st to get eaten if deficiency arises, so they still have value. Scenescence will finish them.

So quite often my buds are perfect and protected from detriment, but I may have some brown leaves from issues that you have to fix. 1st run soil pretty much for sure.

If you get to the end of stretch and still have all your leaves then the plant pretty much has enough to get to scenescence. Its only 4 weeks really.

Those leaves are my buffers in my race to scenescence. I don't defoliate any of them.

I do remove larf branching, but I leave every fan leaf that I can.

Theres tons of P stored in those leaves. It needs to be at the photosynthesis department to unload nutes, then load up on exudates, so I leave them all for better brix.

I like big buds more than nice pictures

 

[Gee64]

@JiggiLotus if scenescence isn't what you meant have you got some pictures?

 

[budnoob3]

When I flip to flower, if I have 10 week plants I try to get them 8 weeks in as best as I possible can, all my fingers crossed and counting down daily, and then after 8 weeks they just get water and they spiral until the trichs are ready.

You guys have probably noticed by now that I don't remove damaged leaves, they are the 1st to get eaten if deficiency arises, so they still have value. Scenescence will finish them.

So quite often my buds are perfect and protected from detriment, but I may have some brown leaves from issues that you have to fix. 1st run soil pretty much for sure.

If you get to the end of stretch and still have all your leaves then the plant pretty much has enough to get to scenescence. Its only 4 weeks really.

Those leaves are my buffers in my race to scenescence. I don't defoliate any of them.

I do remove larf branching, but I leave every fan leaf that I can.

Theres tons of P stored in those leaves. It needs to be at the photosynthesis department to unload nutes, then load up on exudates, so I leave them all for better brix.

I like big buds more than nice pictures

We are sympatico on all of this! The magic happens in the roots, soil and fan leaves etc. the cannibalism part to me is never a concern. I let them get fully consumed, leave some on top of garden and excess in compost.

 

[budnoob3]

9 1/2 week momma just for reference and proud poppa sharing

 

[budnoob3]

Pic

 

[budnoob3]

I don't have links but if you are letting your trichs amber up then you are deep into scenescence.

The plant stops drinking and is almost dead and really, your into the pre-curing stage so the plant pulls everything from the leaves that it can for one final push and only worries about ripening with what it pulls from the leaves.

It can't pull from the soil because it has stopped or almost stopped drinking. So it starves to death robbing it's leaves to ripen the calyxes. It's an annual so it's old, worn out, and dying. It consumes itself trying to continue.

If that's what you are asking about then google plant scenescence and you will find tons on it.

If you like clear trichs you may only see some color but no cannabilization, and milky trichs you will see lots of color and likely some leaf drop and lower canniblization.

Heavy amber and there's not as much left for trimming

So out of curiousity, what are everyone’s thoughts on when to harvest, do you have just a different personal preference or a more elaborate knowledge on best time to harvest for medicinal benefits etc?

 

[Gee64]

Pic

What a beauty! She looks like she's just starting to really rev. She looks like she's about to explode. Big fans coming in. Thats a nice plant, what is it?

 

[Gee64]

So out of curiousity, what are everyone’s thoughts on when to harvest, do you have just a different personal preference or a more elaborate knowledge on best time to harvest for medicinal benefits etc?

I like sativas that are zippy but not paranoid, so almost all milky, some clear, some amber, is where I usually harvest at.

 

[Gee64]

How about you?