If you use Rev's cheater as a tea and don't feed it more than once every 2 weeks it will do wonders across the board.

Feed it in lieu of a top watering when the plants are quite dry and water in as much as you would water with if it were water. I wouldn't let excess sit in the reservoir tho.

The microlife will be fine with it if it dries down between use and the next watering. Use molasses in it too.

If you are going to administer a feed you may as well boost the microbes too. Molasses does that.

So if you went EWC, guano, molasses, fish ferts, and water you would be feeding the fungus with fish, the microbes with carbon (molasses), and adding P and ewc.

That's a recipe for high brix priming if you have good soil calcium in place.

So decide if you should use dolo water one more time or not, then concoct a potion/tea that fits the above recipe and try it. The sugar is important here to boost brix, and molasses is the best, so if you want to concoct a sugar potion for future use thats cool, but for speed and reliability right now I would just use molasses for now and potion in the rest if you can.

It should work, but you may need to feed it semi regularly to keep brix up, so you may have to work it into your rotation, and thats because your soil isn't fortified enough this round, but once you get the soil stronger a tea like this could easily prime a good brix run.
I use a tea of ewc and molasses with a shot of top dressing at least once every grow at about the 4th week of veg and sometimes again at flip if I uppotted. Or if things ever get sluggish.
 
If you use Rev's cheater as a tea and don't feed it more than once every 2 weeks it will do wonders across the board.
After thinking on it some more I think to more closely resemble his mix I'd need to run the F&F through worms and maybe have a special worm bin just for that.

If you look at the npk of the Big Bloom you'll see it's very low (like 0.03-0.50-0.70) and quite similar to typical worm castings and I'd bet my F&F has pretty high levels closer to the other amendment numbers. So adding mine in the ratio he suggests might be overkill.

I think I may set up a separate bin and try it. That would presumably give me a lower N castings option that might be more versatile when combining with other things already higher in N.

So, I guess at the moment I'll stick with my dolo water and F&F inputs.

The dolo water is an every water use, but how about the F&F? Is that an every couple of week thing once I get brix to move (assuming some extra P can get me over the hump). Maybe each time for a few and watch brix and then extend delivery times once it starts to move (assuming it does)?
 
The dolo water is an every water use, but how about the F&F? Is that an every couple of week thing once I get brix to move (assuming some extra P can get me over the hump). Maybe each time for a few and watch brix and then extend delivery times once it starts to move (assuming it does)?
To be honest I'm not sure as the whole Jadam/KNF thing is foreign to me but if you were to have 2 sets of subjects and try one set on every watering and one on a bi-weekly schedule, the refractometer will guide you.

Play around with it. In about 14 days you should see results starting. It won't be as quick as calcium as it's a feed not a conditioner.
 
Day 34, 34, 20, and 17 of Flower.

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I moved all 4 closer to the center. I could easily fit 9 of these small pots in the 5 x 5.

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The colas on the 2 older clones are starting to stack.

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The longer veg on the 2 that are less into flower makes for much nicer plants. I need to start a tea brewing again later today to stay ahead.

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Programmers - Day 15.

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The last Family photo of all 3 together.

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Here is the runt. The new fans are so much nicer than the 1st ones they grew since uppotting. They are big and slender with great color. I need to quit brixing them for a few nodes.

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Here is the middle one.

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This is the biggest bestest one but she has been brixed so she is missing one prime fan leaf.

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And now there are only 2 in the veg tent.

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Because the biggest one got planted in 20 gallons of soil and set out in the yard. Her soil is 2 parts "too hot" over calciumed mix from last winter and cut with 1 part of The Answer soil and 1 part perlite. The original mix was heavy on EWC and after being cooked, used slightly, and back into the tub for a total of 9 months it is beautiful stuff. It's Rev's mix with double the calcium, so it's still pretty hot and may fry the clone, but if it works it should grow a beauty.

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The revegger is still revegging. It may have been too late in the season for her to finish revegging and then get ready for flowering, but she is very healthy.

Reveggers generally develop weaker stalks so outdoors may prove tough if she gets tall as she is in the upper area of my yard and directly into the wind.

Sink or swim, your genetics were picked for this, lets see what you got.

Her sister did fantastic here 2 summers ago but she wasn't a reveg project.

She held her manifold really well, I need to flex her colas apart a bit as one is slowly falling behind the other 7.
 
If you look at the npk of the Big Bloom you'll see it's very low (like 0.03-0.50-0.70) and quite similar to typical worm castings and I'd bet my F&F has pretty high levels closer to the other amendment numbers. So adding mine in the ratio he suggests might be overkill.
Big Bloom is just EWC and guano if I recall correctly, so likely it is very similar to what you could make in a worm bin.

Because it's fully digested at least once already the NPK gets really low but don't let that fool you, it's fast acting so you need to use it regularly, but it's great stuff.

If you made enough thru your worm bins to mix it at 25% of your global mix I bet your brix would reflect that. Then a steady top dressing. Start in veg so you can build P from early on. Get the dumptruck fleet ready and stay ahead.

If it doesn't brix high enough then you will need mineral dusts in the mix too, but only 1 way to find out😎
 
How is the buzz from LC-18? She is part of my next run.
It's really interesting to me. Sometimes it can get me so high! Always a fun heady refreshment. Ms Otter picks it up first every day and puts some in a pipe to combust together. She's a dedicated vaper and it surprises me every time!
Buzz can be strong if I keep on it! Can get a monkey mind real easy!
Hey @StoneOtter have you brixed your flowering plant in the SIP lately? I'm curious if your change of approach lead to any differences.
Not for a week or two. I should do it soon, it's rainy today. 12.5 was last brix. I'll check again soon.
 
It's really interesting to me. Sometimes it can get me so high! Always a fun heady refreshment. Ms Otter picks it up first every day and puts some in a pipe to combust together. She's a dedicated vaper and it surprises me every time!
Buzz can be strong if I keep on it! Can get a monkey mind real easy!

Not for a week or two. I should do it soon, it's rainy today. 12.5 was last brix. I'll check again soon.
Wake 'n Bakes are my favorite. Thanks Stone👊
 
After thinking on it some more I think to more closely resemble his mix I'd need to run the F&F through worms and maybe have a special worm bin just for that.
Don't forget about balance. If it goes in the worm bin as an amendment and not just organic matter (carrot peels are organic matter, specifics like flowers are amendment), then it should be in your soil, top dressing, and teas as an amendment too.
 
Azi here is what you should keep in mind as you walk the path.

In nature there is a patch of dirt sitting there vacant, a seed blows in and sprouts.

It grows, maybe perfectly, but realistically it struggles but survives, makes some seeds, and dies. It struggles because it was the 1st to grow there and all the minerals were raw and the organic matter non-existent.

Next year one of it's seeds sprouts. It does better because the compost from Mom's body assisted, but for it's seeds to do better next year it needs to consume Mom's goodness and mine more. This goes on forever.

So your soil still needs to be where the most is, everything else is helpful and better every year, but it's better because every year the soil adds to it.

The top dressings definitely help (Moms fallen body) but in order for next years fallen body to be better topdressing, you need soil fortitude at the base level this year.

Seeds sprout in soil and need to link into soil food asap in order to get a healthier fallen body for next year. Without that the plant will perpetually try to commit suicide via bugs and fungii in order to free up the soil for someone else to try.

Your soil needs to be the best part of your equation in LOS. Otherwise you get stuck in a loop of never exceeding the quality of your satellite feeds such as top dressings.

So boost your soil 1st to get ahead on the quality of your fallen corpses. Dead weed, btw, is excellent amendment.
 
Azi here is what you should keep in mind as you walk the path.

In nature there is a patch of dirt sitting there vacant, a seed blows in and sprouts.

It grows, maybe perfectly, but realistically it struggles but survives, makes some seeds, and dies. It struggles because it was the 1st to grow there and all the minerals were raw and the organic matter non-existent.

Next year one of it's seeds sprouts. It does better because the compost from Mom's body assisted, but for it's seeds to do better next year it needs to consume Mom's goodness and mine more. This goes on forever.

So your soil still needs to be where the most is, everything else is helpful and better every year, but it's better because every year the soil adds to it.

The top dressings definitely help (Moms fallen body) but in order for next years fallen body to be better topdressing, you need soil fortitude at the base level this year.

Seeds sprout in soil and need to link into soil food asap in order to get a healthier fallen body for next year. Without that the plant will perpetually try to commit suicide via bugs and fungii in order to free up the soil for someone else to try.

Your soil needs to be the best part of your equation in LOS. Otherwise you get stuck in a loop of never exceeding the quality of your satellite feeds such as top dressings.

So boost your soil 1st to get ahead on the quality of your fallen corpses. Dead weed, btw, is excellent amendment.
But isn't that where the 1/3 'old soil' component of the mix comes in? Granted, my old soil isn't mineralized as well as it will be going forward, but the old plants are definitely part of the compost and the worm component as well which is another third.

I've always had castings as part of my mix, and compost for the past few cycles, so I should be getting that part into the new mix ok between the old soil and the new compost/castings.
 
What does it typically mean when leaf temps are 8-10° below ambient, not enough light?

The on-deck batter looks as good as any plant I've had at flip but leaf temps and 9.5 brix with a defined line says otherwise.

I use off-the-shelf led's in a vanity strip for lights and leave the domes on in veg because the plants are so close to the lights and I didn't want to burn them, but maybe I'm babying them too much? In flower I take the domes off and can get leaf temps up to ambient -2°.
 
What does it typically mean when leaf temps are 8-10° below ambient, not enough light?

The on-deck batter looks as good as any plant I've had at flip but leaf temps and 9.5 brix with a defined line says otherwise.

I use off-the-shelf led's in a vanity strip for lights and leave the domes on in veg because the plants are so close to the lights and I didn't want to burn them, but maybe I'm babying them too much? In flower I take the domes off and can get leaf temps up to ambient -2°.
Ambient room temp certainly plays a part, but light intensity is the big factor. If your room temps are in the ballpark, so 72F- 90F, light is the big driver in leaf temp. The closer they get to a 2 degree dif, the more water they will move, thus more food too. Try veg with the domes off and see.
 
RVDV 2 - Day 12 of Cure.
Finally down to 62%.

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These are nasty buds. They look hairy and fluffy but if you look closer to the bottom half you see the crystal. It's not sticky, it's crusty and hard and it's barely dry. Wicked shit. Up top that crustiness is hidden by really long red hairs.

iMaybe I'll let The Wife try it 1st🤣

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There's the catapillar.

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Kinda thick too

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Matt, I want my money back, the buds are too damn small.

Wow, did you see how I said that with a straight face?🤣🤣🤣🤣

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Clone's 1st full day outdoors.

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I don't know if she will ripen before winter so I'm going to prune her in a manner that I can wrestle her indoors if needed. I'm going to prune all side branches to 2 nodes long and prune out the larf. Then I'm hoping she stays less than 8 feet tall and only 1 main apex cola on the top 3 feet. All fan leaves and one big bud.

Otherwise if I can't get her indoors and winter rolls in I will lose her completely.

Winter usually rolls in in 1 day here, and 15C turns into -25C overnight.

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I am salivating. Those characteristic red hairs. Aw I love that sativa bud. It looks chunky to me. I'm dying for the smoke report. If I were the wife, I'd insist on doing it together!
 
I am salivating. Those characteristic red hairs. Aw I love that sativa bud. It looks chunky to me. I'm dying for the smoke report. If I were the wife, I'd insist on doing it together!
I may try a tester in another 6 weeks or so but I find it takes at least 3 months in the jar to turn the corner into really nice weed, and 6 months is where it usually gets top notch, so those 2 and the big Iklwa bud in the last picture are likely my Christmas stash.

I'll definitely do a smoke report.

I did roll a joint of nothing but red hairs to try after sweating in the tubs. The bottom of the tubs were covered in hairs. It was a bit harsh as it was still damp-ish at 68-70% RH but it packed a punch.

Straight to the brain, no body stone at all.

Just the way I like 'em🥰
 
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