The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[Gee64]

That’s a new one. Excellent detail. So what, you literally take them down each day, weigh, then rehang? And do you estimate what you will lose in stem weight?

I do, and I don't estimate anything really. Every grow the stem to bud weight ratio is different. I hope for 4 oz's per plant, a pound from the tent. I know that doesn't sound like much, but I could have easily doubled that yield by leaving some larf. I just hate trimming it, so if I grow it, the worms end up getting it. I would rather have 4 oz of apex colas than 8 oz of lesser apex colas and a bunch of bud that I will never smoke.

 

[Gee64]

I started my LC-18 in a solo of Build a Soil starter soil until it got a good size before I put it in my LOS that I'm thinking is possibly even more rich than yours. That worked out perfectly.

Yeah I'm thinking the same way. The next ones will be in solo's until I get the strains figured out. If the 40 gal turns out to still be too strong I will grow it out with some of my regular DP and then try again.

 

[Gee64]

Damn you Stone! I wanted a day off, but now I have to go plant beans in solos. Thanks for the poke

 

[Gee64]

Today the tester bud should be dry enough to sample. Fingers crossed

 

[Gee64]

Durban Poison - Day 69 of Flower.

The mace head pheno still looks like it's got more to give. Her resin is still getting thicker. She is still pushing fat calyxes and hairs, but the trichs are close. 2 more days at least.

This pheno isn't close yet. She's still 100% clear on the trichs. Another week I bet, maybe more. Her resin is still coming in too.

I wish the dusty rose-pink starting to rim the sugar leaves would show in the pictures.

 

[Gee64]

I also planted 4 Table Mountain seeds again today.

I planted 1 of each Iklwa, LC-18, RVDV, and Wild Lady. I planted the seeds into solo cups of half strength soil cut with coco/perlite.

On a heat mat under a dome in the veg tent.

 

[Absorber]

Durban Poison - Day 69 of Flower.

The mace head pheno still looks like it's got more to give. Her resin is still getting thicker. She is still pushing fat calyxes and hairs, but the trichs are close. 2 more days at least.

This pheno isn't close yet. She's still 100% clear on the trichs. Another week I bet, maybe more. Her resin is still coming in too.

I wish the dusty rose-pink starting to rim the sugar leaves would show in the pictures.

They look stunning mate

 

[Gee64]

These 2 just keep getting better every day.

Here are the hanging weights.

Shorty 1 - Leaner Dec 12 - Day 65
Dec 12 - 1015g wet.
Dec 13 - 639g
Dec 14 - 439g
Dec 15 - 328g
Dec 16 - 255g

Shorty 2 Dec 13 - Day 66
Dec 13 - 1089g wet
Dec 14 - 737g
Dec 15 - 530g
Dec 16 - 361g

Shorty 1 will probably be ready to sweat in a tub tomorrow.

 

[Azimuth]

Azi, have you ever checked the ppm of your diluted potions?

Ok, checked the numbers.

Rain water: 30
1:60 Veg mix : 122
1:30 Veg mix + Flower mix: 189

I tried a 1:20 in flower and burned my leaves so I'm going to try lower levels every watering and see what that does. 1:20 is the strongest recommended for many of the extracts, so my 1:60 is about 1/3 strength.

And every batch is different and continually changing as some gets used and replaced by new. But I assume they're all mostly in that ballpark.

I'm going to try that diluted version every watering down the pipe, and a weekly 1/2 watering from above with my WCA (Water Soluble Calcium).

What are normal/standard levels of ppm used either with organic or synthetic, any idea?

 

[Gee64]

Ok, checked the numbers.

Rain water: 30
1:60 Veg mix : 122
1:30 Veg mix + Flower mix: 189

I tried a 1:20 in flower and burned my leaves so I'm going to try lower levels every watering and see what that does. 1:20 is the strongest recommended for many of the extracts, so my 1:60 is about 1/3 strength.

And every batch is different and continually changing as some gets used and replaced by new. But I assume they're all mostly in that ballpark.

I'm going to try that diluted version every watering down the pipe, and a weekly 1/2 watering from above with my WCA (Water Soluble Calcium).

What are normal/standard levels of ppm used either with organic or synthetic, any idea?

Nice! They are definitely in the ballpark.

I have no idea what would be considered normal, but when I go over 40 ppm on calcium solutions I notice things like tip burn starting. I'm not sure about feeding, I don't ppm the teas. Your ratios/ppm's all sound solid.

How is your system doing? You were getting pretty good results last we talked. How's the finished product, are you happy with it?

 

[Azimuth]

Finished product? Have you not been paying attention?? There is no finished product as everything is still being tweaked. And will probably be that way forever as that seems to be how I roll.

That said, I am quite pleased by the way things are going.

The coco vs compost experiment is drying and although the coco one looked like crap it seems to have out produced the compost version. And the coco version would likely have been even better since I failed to account for coco needing extra Ca, but it was interesting to see the difference side-by-side.

I'll run the next round compost only to better dial in my extracts but, other than the burned leaves from too strong a potion, my leaves are looking pretty good 5 weeks into flower on the latest round. So, getting closer but still not there quite yet.

I changed out my main strain and don't even have my first harvest with it yet but I'll try various things in future rounds like adding coco again, and different amounts of perlite, etc.

I'm wondering if I could have a pretty decent run using my basic mix with compost and mulch as more background support and rely more on my potions down the pipe regularly, so that's what I'll test next round. Thinner versions of the extracts more frequently is the plan.

Cloning continues to go well and I promoted another entire batch to the worm bin as i don't need them. I think I'm finding the much coarser sand mix is better than the out-of-the-package mix so I'll try screening out the fines and run a side-by-side test at some point.

Congrats on your recent harvest. Looks tasty!

 

[Gee64]

Nice! Yeah I'm behind on everything. The Pre-Xmas Honey-Do list is strong this year.

By finished product, I meant the harvest. How's the bud? Solid and nuggy? Not like the bunk @Keffka and @Gee64 grow?

Sounds like maybe you should try a 50/50 compost/coco run, or something close to that to split the difference.

Maybe 60/40 compost/coco, or add the coco to the compost. You can also get coco in thru the worm bins.

I know you know all of what I'm about to say, but sometimes reading it again tweaks a good thought....

It's the carbon and the K in the coco that is adding to your yields, but other than C,K, and water retention, coco hasn't got much else in it, and compost has lots of nutes but, here is what the microbes/myco want, and coco ensures it because it has a really good carbon value on the carbon scale.

10-1 carbon/nitrogen to just stay alive.
15-1 to get microbes producing
20-1 just keeps myco alive
30-1 is the perfect ratio

And the tip of the day.
add calcium to reduce excess nitrogen which raises carbon in the ratio of C to N.

So if you have enough carbon and you are still looking deficient on it, chances are you have too much nitrogen locked in your soil, because calcium is low, so magnesium holds onto the nitrogen, locking it in the soil. It's useless locked up nitrogen, but it's still there lowering your carbon ratio.

This is why you want dolomite in your global mix.

After your compost is finished, you still want some raw carbon laying around for the microbes to eat, just make sure all the greens are done composting.

Only if you cross over into high brix can you get away with less soil carbon. Until then the microbes/fungii require carbon in the correct amounts/ratios.

Carbon is your browns, nitrogen is a green.

Don't ever forget... just because nitrogen is locked up doesn't mean it isn't there.

The more nitro you lock up, the less carbon on the ratio.

Excess magnesium on the calcium to magnesium ratio locks nitrogen on a 1 to 1 basis for every extra molecule of magnesium on the ratio.

Add calcium, which fixes the calcium to magnesium ratio and the excess nitrogen vents off fixing your carbon to nitrogen ratio.

Because of this, coco/compost quite often requires a bit extra calcium to balance it.

Vent off the excess nitrogen.

So as you balance out your carbon inputs, keep these numbers in mind.

1/3 coco (or another good carbon source)

1/3 soil (used soil brings all the innoculants)

1/3 ewc or other finished organic compost

then amendments.

Thats not the only way to build a soil, just a great way, so as you work in your inputs, try to replace these thirds with anything you like, just remember that balanced soil has 3 thirds to it, so build your thirds any way you like, then combine them.

Your potions will do the rest but this is your engine, the potions are fuel sources and conditioners for the engine.

Then keep in mind that every carbon has a value, and the higher the value the more water retention and the slower release it is.

Wood is an excellent carbon source, but it breaks down so slow that you will end up with a carbon deficiency. Molasses is the other end of the scale. Its a fantastic carbon source but it's so readily available it only lasts a couple days.

Coco is the middle ground. Good finished leaf based compost isn't as good a carbon source as coco, but it has a ton of food in it too.

Higher carbon values require more perlite and more microlife.

Too much water retention displaces oxygen. Oxygen is 78% nitrogen, so too wet means your nitrogen side of the ratio is compromised.

Thats why over watering looks like a nitro deficiency, because it is.

Gotta find the balance between carbon, nitrogen, and calcium.

After you mix your thirds, and the blending is done, then add perlite until it's fluffed to your likings.

Always add the perlite last. It's not part of the math, it's just an aereator.

So here is my point, carbon is your biggest amendment by a country mile, yet it gets looked at the least. If calcium and carbon aren't correct, then air and water aren't correct. Air isn't really air if all it's nitro gets locked up, and if carbon holds too much or too little water, you have too little or too much air.

It's a base balance that needs to be correct for everything else to work correctly.

After all, organics does translate to "of carbon base" and aerobic microbes do like air.

 

[Gidorah]

Day 42, week 6. 2 more weeks to go til the flip. Hope i can make it, these gals are getting unruly.

 

[Vegan4life]

I also planted 4 Table Mountain seeds again today.

I planted 1 of each Iklwa, LC-18, RVDV, and Wild Lady. I planted the seeds into solo cups of half strength soil cut with coco/perlite.

On a heat mat under a dome in the veg tent.

Your plants are looking great! How do you order the Table mountain seeds? I went to their website a week or two ago and could not find a store front?

 

[Gee64]

Your plants are looking great! How do you order the Table mountain seeds? I went to their website a week or two ago and could not find a store front?

@Lerugged can help you here.

 

[Gee64]

Day 42, week 6. 2 more weeks to go til the flip. Hope i can make it, these gals are getting unruly.

Nice! Rose Kush is such a beast. They are a beauty green. 2 more weeks. That's perfect! The Durbans will be gone and the flower floor will be all yours.

My Rose Kush went 9 weeks to the day on all 3 seeds that I grew, and on the clones.

They also stretched a bit more than most indicas. All 3 phenos had a ton of trichs.

Way thicker than my Durbans have.

 

[Gidorah]

Your plants are looking great! How do you order the Table mountain seeds? I went to their website a week or two ago and could not find a store front?

I bought some seeds from them last month. You have to email Matt from his website, very responsive.

 

[Gidorah]

Hey Gee, i might have asked this already but i forgot. When your Rose kush took 9 weeks, are you counting from the day you flipped the lights or after the stretch when pistils start showing?

 

[Joe Brewster]

Your plants are looking great! How do you order the Table mountain seeds? I went to their website a week or two ago and could not find a store front?

Or send him a message here @Table Mountain Sativa Co

 

[Keffka]

Hey Gee, i might have asked this already but i forgot. When your Rose kush took 9 weeks, are you counting from the day you flipped the lights or after the stretch when pistils start showing?

The day you flip your lights. Even if you didn’t use this metric, there’s only a 3-5 day difference between flipping your light and flower officially starting. Once the stigmas (pistils are the entire female sexual organs, stigmas are the hairs we see) are growing instead of showing, you’re already well into bloom/flower.