The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[Gee64]

Got the canopy all levelled out again. The tallest plant is 9 inches taller than the shortest.

Still a few branches down too low.

Tomorrow I will go through each top again.

 

[Jon]

71 Days old, 36 days to senescence, 57 to harvest. Hope I make it.

How do you figure days to senescence?

 

[Jon]

Lab Question:

In light of the clone turning out to be a male, I’m wondering if there is some way to call the sex of the plant WAY WAY WAY earlier than flower? It was a real kick in the ass to have to chop her after all that work. At least if I had known earlier it would have hurt less.

 

[Gee64]

How do you figure days to senescence?

Usually one of the plants starts to show about 3 weeks before harvest and by two weeks out they are all ripening.

 

[Gee64]

Lab Question:

In light of the clone turning out to be a male, I’m wondering if there is some way to call the sex of the plant WAY WAY WAY earlier than flower? It was a real kick in the ass to have to chop her after all that work. At least if I had known earlier it would have hurt less.

Keff found an article on early sexing and a few of us have tried it now and general consensus is by day 30 you pretty much know. You start the seeds on a 12/12 light cycle for the first 10 days, then you switch to 16/8 or 18/6 or whatever veg time you choose. It works pretty good.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Hi Gee man,

Please tell me what to do. Some of the leaf tips on the uppers are dying. All I've been doing is giving calmag and water every feed. Is that perhaps too often? It's only a few leaves so far and seems to be progressing slowly. I hope you're still awake. It's rather late for you I think.

I gave them a dose of Nourish on 15 Oct, so I don't think it would be that.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Morning Gee Man

 

[Jon]

Hi Gee man,

Please tell me what to do. Some of the leaf tips on the uppers are dying. All I've been doing is giving calmag and water every feed. Is that perhaps too often? It's only a few leaves so far and seems to be progressing slowly. I hope you're still awake. It's rather late for you I think.

I gave them a dose of Nourish on 15 Oct, so I don't think it would be that.

Hi @Carmen Ray - I know you asked Gee and I’m sure his answer will be right. What I see, for what it’s worth, (don’t know your nute system) is too much calmag, not enough Nitrogen. It appears she’s beginning to yellow just a tiny bit, but you can see it. That is what I read as not enough N. The burnt tips to my eye are too much Calmag. You know enough not to go with my answer, but wondering what you see?

 

[Jon]

Hi @Gee64 - Tuesday morning question for you. When I cleared out the clone remnants yesterday, her drip tray was full of the rich, black, loamy combination of soil, EWC, Geoflora nutes, and probably living myco. It looked glorious. So I took it and top dressed it onto the Bubblegum Sherbet. It made a layer about half an inch thick, and then this morning on watering day I watered it in.

My question is, did I screw up? Or was this a good thing to do? If it’s a good thing I’ll keep doing it with the runoff sludge.

Thanks!

 

[Carmen Ray]

Hi @Carmen Ray - I know you asked Gee and I’m sure his answer will be right. What I see, for what it’s worth, (don’t know your nute system) is too much calmag, not enough Nitrogen. It appears she’s beginning to yellow just a tiny bit, but you can see it. That is what I read as not enough N. The burnt tips to my eye are too much Calmag. You know enough not to go with my answer, but wondering what you see?

Hi Jon, thank you. I'm not seeing any yellowing on this side. I think the photo appears slightly yellow because the white balance is incorrect.

That's not to say I haven't overdone the calmag! I may have as I have been giving calmag with every watering since up-potting 18 days ago. EDIT - last watering on 22 Oct was plain water.

The only other thing I have added was this stuff, ten days ago.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Natural light

 

[Jon]

Natural light

Ah. You were right it was just the lighting. No yellowing. Good. That stuff you used seems to be mostly sugars, although it has a fair share of N and K. Still, you only gave that once? Did the tips happen after that? I can’t imagine one application of that stuff would hurt anything. I still think it’s probably just a bit heavy on the calmag. I might try switching to giving it every other feeding instead of every time?

 

[Jon]

Ah. You were right it was just the lighting. No yellowing. Good. That stuff you used seems to be mostly sugars, although it has a fair share of N and K. Still, you only gave that once? Did the tips happen after that? I can’t imagine one application of that stuff would hurt anything. I still think it’s probably just a bit heavy on the calmag. I might try switching to giving it every other feeding instead of every time?

Regardless, the plant looks great and pretty darn healthy when seen in natural light. I wouldn’t sweat it too much. If it starts to progress more that’s different.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Ah. You were right it was just the lighting. No yellowing. Good. That stuff you used seems to be mostly sugars, although it has a fair share of N and K. Still, you only gave that once? Did the tips happen after that? I can’t imagine one application of that stuff would hurt anything. I still think it’s probably just a bit heavy on the calmag. I might try switching to giving it every other feeding instead of every time?

That's not to say I haven't overdone the calmag! I may have as I have been giving calmag with every watering since up-potting 18 days ago. EDIT - last watering on 22 Oct was plain water.

The only other thing I have added was this stuff, ten days ago.

No, ten days ago so I can't see it causing this necrosis now.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Regardless, the plant looks great and pretty darn healthy when seen in natural light. I wouldn’t sweat it too much. If it starts to progress more that’s different.

It is progressing unfortunately.

 

[StoneOtter]

Thanks @StoneOtter - that’s partly what I needed, and as I get through the Rev I guess I’ll encounter the spike recipes and stuff. I gotta ask Yoda if he does this.

So your flowering spikes for example - I would assume you would make several holes evenly spaced around the pot? Does where the holes go matter in some way? Obviously how many matters, what’s the holes/pot size rule? And how deep do you go? When during flower do you use them? And what happens when they become “in play?” Is the effect dramatic enough to see visually?

If all that’s in the Rev’s stuff as well, feel free to disregard! I know I ask a lot of annoying questions. Lmao!

Never annoying Jon! The Rev has some rules. You'll See them. One I think is to use the same number of N spikes to Flowering ones. I do that. I've used them in final pots only. 7 gallon being the smallest. The largest is in ground outdoor. I never go more than 4 in pots and probably 6 in ground but we'll see.
In pots they go almost to the bottom. The holes go near the edge of the pot where roots will find then at some time but not right away.

Todays quote of the day.

1. "If the whole world smoked a joint simultaneously, there would be peace for at least two hours, followed by a global food shortage."

I'm IN!

Betcha that’s where the moniker comes from too. Dude named himself after his poop secret weapon. He keeps it in a fitted suitcase like James Bond.

I'm a staunch llama poop user Jon. That stuff's the shizz!

Got the canopy all levelled out again. The tallest plant is 9 inches taller than the shortest.

Still a few branches down too low.

Tomorrow I will go through each top again.

Your ladies are on point Gee!

 

[Gee64]

Morning Gee Man

Good Morning Carmen. Sorry I crashed early last night. That looks like nute burn from a calmag dose. Autos do wierd things from my limited exposure to them, but if that were a photo I would dial back the calcium liquids. Try every 2nd or 3rd watering. Or when the plant starts to look light green like it needs nitrogen.

Calcium is food but its also an electrolyte, so it drives the soil electrically. If it builds up in your soil its very similar to feeding plants with a solution that has too high of an EC.

When calcium gets too high other things can get locked out. I would try plain water to runoff for a few waterings. Don't flush or you could lose nutrients, just to full saturation so the plant has to eat and the excess calcium moves down and eventually out.

It's also a soil conditioner, so when its in balance with magnesium your soil fluffs perfectly. If its low you get a crusty pot when it dries, and if its high your soil is dusty when it dries.

You want it somewhere in the middle.

The crustiness of low calcium is caused by excess magnesium locking out nitrogen.

Every molecule of excess magnesium locks 1 molecule of nitrogen. I don't think low calcium is your immediate problem as other than the tips the plant looks really healthy. I tell you about excess magnesium (low calcium) so you know what to watch for if you dial the calmag back.

As soon as the plant looks a wee bit light in color, check the soil for crustiness. You should be able to easily stick a finger in anywhere, even around the pot edges. As long as the soil is fluffy your good.

If its just starting to get crusty, time for a weak dose of calmag and some EWC across the whole top of the pot just barely deep enough to cover. Don't choke the surface with EWC. Lighter layers more often work way better.

If you ever topdress a mineral mix, like bat guano or whatever, putting it on and the ewc right over top of it works really well.

I poke fingers into my pots every day. Caking is different. Caking just under the surface can be gently broken up, its just EWC clumping up before it really starts to work. The crusty stuff that didn't appear after using EWC, thats the calcium isdue. 1st watering after EWC has been topdressed you usually see crustiness, but again thats EWC starting to work so crumble it, but its not a calcium issue.

If you haven't topdressed for a few waterings and things go crusty, thats a calcium issue.

So here is some logic on that, as calcium can be dangerous.

When the soil needs calcium, which is the majority of the calcium issues, and it goes crusty, calmag will fix that ON CONTACT.

Thats important to remember.

It has an electrical charge and tames excess magnesium on contact, so don't mix it too strong.

If a light dose doesn't fix it, you can always do another light dose. Go too strong and plants fry.

A light dose is the weakest mixture from the instructions. Calmag instructions usually have 3 strengths on the mixing instructions.

The light mix is to maintain current levels, or fix minor things. The medium is to fix minor things and feed and maintain, the heavy is to rescue. Try to feed light and maintain but never need a rescue.

If the plant doesn't eat the calcium and it is only being used to condition the soil, which is what most need it for, it can build up and tips start to burn.

 

[Gee64]

Hi @Gee64 - Tuesday morning question for you. When I cleared out the clone remnants yesterday, her drip tray was full of the rich, black, loamy combination of soil, EWC, Geoflora nutes, and probably living myco. It looked glorious. So I took it and top dressed it onto the Bubblegum Sherbet. It made a layer about half an inch thick, and then this morning on watering day I watered it in.

My question is, did I screw up? Or was this a good thing to do? If it’s a good thing I’ll keep doing it with the runoff sludge.

Thanks!

lol I guess we watch and wait I do love a goid experiment. Chances are it will help, but if its too much all at once you may see some tip curl or tips going a bit yellow. Make sure iy doesn't go crusty and choke air off. Let it dry and crumble it up if need be.

 

[Gee64]

Hi Jon, thank you. I'm not seeing any yellowing on this side. I think the photo appears slightly yellow because the white balance is incorrect.

That's not to say I haven't overdone the calmag! I may have as I have been giving calmag with every watering since up-potting 18 days ago. EDIT - last watering on 22 Oct was plain water.

The only other thing I have added was this stuff, ten days ago.

This looks like any other Bud Candy, for the most part. Once a month will help.

If you use it too often the microbes will start relying on you for sugar instead of taking exudate bribes from myco. Once a month though, and its just a freebee pick-me-up and everything runs a bit better.

If brix are low, this will jumpstart them into climbing. The extra carbon in it revitalizes the microbes, they produce more food, the plant eats more, then it can exudate more, and everything bumps up a notch.

 

[Gee64]

Natural light

She's a big-boned girl! She will treat you well. Beautiful shape on your canopy.