The DIY COB Addiction

Veros are cheaper for very similar out put, and sway a bit to the red side if the spectrum..
I would just run straight 3000 or 3500k/90 chips.. Lots of blue in there for vegging, Enough red for flowering.. No need to mix..
 
ClobberWatts said:
I am really bad at communication. My understanding is that people are mixing up chip's all over the place. Let me see if I can explain this better. It seems that at this point, I do not understand why some of you guys are putting up 1750's. It almost looks like a guessing game with those chips. Do I want those for a full bloom run or just have it setup like this picture? 6 inches from the wall and 14 on center from there. I want it 12, but can not figure out how to get it. My other question is... with the vero 29's, is everyone's opinion that it the best way is still 12" on center? I'm trying to catch up on the whole LED stuff. Like I said.. I've been out of the loop for a year or so, and I'm still trying to catch up on the lingo.
lights50.jpg
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People are using the 1750 to get reds you can't get with most other chips. Luxeon also makes a Red meat chip. There are a ton of ppl using the 1750 in RIU.
A cob per foot is the general rule with most COBs.
 
Nice thread. Lots of information.
Too much information for me to wrap my head around. Lol

I have a small 27"×27"×60" tent.
Currently run two mars blurple less. Their old 300watt models. I believe they are about 150w a piece at the wall, so 300w total.

Not getting bad results with these, but want to upgrade.

Can someone tell me what I should be looking to pickup?

I am thinking 4 Vero 29's in the 3500k flavor, 90cri

What chips, driver and heatsink would I need?
Part numbers would help a lot.
Searching through the vendor sights trying to cipher the difference in all the chip data is warping my brain. Lol

I can handle building and assembling, and can solder well too if needed.

Also the cool watt meter I see in a few setups here. I like that too.

Thanks
 
People are trying to better mimic full spectrum light with more reds, as plants respond to red faster than they do to blue. Red allows more efficient uptake for plants, as well as creates circadian responses light/dark schedules and Emerson effect of waking and sleeping. Easy way is to include more red in cobs, hard way is to include more red in secondary lighting. Easy way with cree is to run 1-HLG-185H-C1400B or C1050B driver with four cxb cobs 1-2700k, 2-3500k, 1-6500k will giove complex full spectrum to a 200w fixture. With Vero, I believe you need 1750IK, 3500k, and 5000K is similar. I am not as sure with Vero.

Myself, I use added Deep Red for wake up 30w/4sf, Far red for sleep, and I run a 50w full spectrum with 4-cxb3590 3500K and that is how I add the light spectrum the way my plants like it.
namaste
 
jimmyclone said:
Keep it simple
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So what you are saying is.. I shouldn't meet up with Princess Leia and recover the stolen data plans for the death star? The plans I got from her so far wouldn't be a planet killer, but it might be a plant killer. Comparable to that 10,000 watt HID you guys had a video of before. Here you go. Stardust. It would give me my 12" on center if it didn't explode first.

deathstar1.jpg
 
Hey clobberwatts, what size frame is that going to be. I'm currently running 24 veros at 53w for my 5x5. Also have 6 chill 90w boards coming. I'm going to build new frame. Also have. 2 4ft 730nm Cree far reds to add also. I'm trying to draw a few designs up. That looks pretty good. I'm still not sure if I want to control the colors of the boards individually or all together with analog dimmer.
 
Buckshot317 said:
Hey clobberwatts, what size frame is that going to be. I'm currently running 24 veros at 53w for my 5x5. Also have 6 chill 90w boards coming. I'm going to build new frame. Also have. 2 4ft 730nm Cree far reds to add also. I'm trying to draw a few designs up. That looks pretty good. I'm still not sure if I want to control the colors of the boards individually or all together with analog dimmer.
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That was kinda a joke. The cost of it would be way too much. If you did have the extra cash and I kinda do. It's 54" wide. Basically, I am a hydro guy, and my trays are 53" botanicare's. But if you have the extra scrub, it might not be a bad idea. Panels on dimmers, pucks on a dimmer, and put the sections of three's on 240-1750?'s Drivers is where I start to get confused. So if I was crazy enough to do that just to gain 6" of light. Your talking 4 240-1750's, something to run the boards, and one to run the far red's. Total overkill but it would give you total control if you could keep up with it.

I have to build 8 of these things so I want to get it right. With things changing on a daily basis and just finding out that the price of cbx3590's just dropped by a quarter, I do not know what to do. I know this is lame, but let me throw up a few photos of my homemade tent I'm building also.
 
But I already have everything, my current frame is 54in by 54 in. I have shitloads of cxb 3590's, but the Crees was given to me. Also buy wholesale not retail. That design looks kinda cool.

Those 53in trays, I need 2 or 3, but is that what store is selling as a 4x4 tray, because I need to cover 5x10.

I was wondering why would you spend that much money and buy little far red pucks.

I have plenty of 1050ma drivers, but don't know if the extra control would really help any, because with 12ft ceilings I'll be turned up anyway
 
Buckshot317 said:
You made your table. What kind of metal did you use, I'm trying to recognize part #'s.
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30-3030

Parts on their way. I get 25% off, but if anyone wanted to build that, it'd be about 850. I figure...
A. I want to build it.
B. I can.
C. I don't care.
D. Joking aside. I want my own tent my size. I'm selling my house and renting from someone for the first time in 20 years. I want my tent to be modular, where I am in control of the size. I do not want to be limited to a 6' height. My trays are 53" inches. If it fails, I can always recycle the aluminum. I'd have to buy a five by five tent, then build some 4x4 stands to hold my trays. So pay a little extra for some erector sets and get it done. If I do fail. Chop it up build some frames and put them on craigslist. I'd still get my money back. So screw it.
 
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