The 4x4 Grow Tent Club

Could be a nutrient toxicity, but it could also be a deficiency (picture is somewhat suggestive). In regards to the latter, it might even be an element that you're feeding (or which is present in your soil) in sufficient quantity but one or more other factors are causal in your particular situation. For example, improper pH causes nutrient lockouts and/or the inability to uptake certain nutrients. An overabundance of calcium causes plants to evidence signs of magnesium deficiency, because there is a ratio between those two elements when things are in proper balance (interestingly, this seems to apply to people as well as plants).

BtW, nutrient burn in general terms (IOW, mixed the correct ratio of nutrients, just fed way too much, lol) that I have seen ordinarily caused burned-looking tips on the leaves - not random patches throughout the surface. Compare your plants with the many(, many, many) images and text descriptions about nutrient deficiencies/toxicities that have been posted here at the forum. You could also examine your plants when they are in an undisturbed state in an attempt to see whether or not your plants are feeding tiny insect life; a good magnifying glass or jeweler's loupe can be helpful in this, because some insects are so tiny as to be somewhat difficult to see with the naked eye when not moving.

From the picture, this doesn't strike me as being indicative of light-bleaching, but this can also cause yellowing due to lack of chlorophyll/chloroplasts in the cells.

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Hey wassup. I've got a 60x-120x led microscope cuz google pics told me I had spider mites. I found no insects or eggs on top or under leaf. I've been through all the articles with pests and issues and nothing comes closer than ph fluctuations (another friendly farmer from here pointed it out) but with plain tap water that's neutral and a runoff of 6.2 I'm not sure if that's enough to prove or disprove the diagnosis
 
Even with the better picture that does not look like neut burn. I thought about pests, but I wasn't comfortable saying it. Neut burn is very distinctive. It effects the very edges and tips. A perfectly green leaf with the tip or some of the edges bright brown. At least that was what mine was and all of the "this is what neut burn looks like" pictures confirmed it. Assuming its not an insect whatever you gave it it didn't like, so flushing the soil makes sense.

What did you feed them with :lot-o-toke:and at what PH was the water? If it showed up the next day, it will have something to do with that. Unless of course you are INCREDIBLY unlucky. :lot-o-toke::lot-o-toke::lot-o-toke:
 
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Hey wassup. I've got a 60x-120x led microscope cuz google pics told me I had spider mites. I found no insects or eggs on top or under leaf. I've been through all the articles with pests and issues and nothing comes closer than ph fluctuations (another friendly farmer from here pointed it out) but with plain tap water that's neutral and a runoff of 6.2 I'm not sure if that's enough to prove or disprove the diagnosis

Looks to me to be a Mag problem, I don't grow in soil but that's my take.

GR
 
Even with the better picture that does not look like neut burn. I thought about pests, but I wasn't comfortable saying it. Neut burn is very distinctive. It effects the very edges and tips. A perfectly green leaf with the tip or some of the edges bright brown. At least that was what mine was and all of the "this is what neut burn looks like" pictures confirmed it. Assuming its not an insect whatever you gave it it didn't like, so flushing the soil makes sense.

What did you feed them with :lot-o-toke:and at what PH was the water? If it showed up the next day, it will have something to do with that. Unless of course you are INCREDIBLY unlucky. :lot-o-toke::lot-o-toke::lot-o-toke:

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They spent 2 weeks in solos and 3 weeks in the 5 gal using FFOF for both. I figured they were 5 weeks old so that's what i gave them from the chart. Messed up when i made the assumption this chart had been modified for noobs and was showing what the 1/4 strength would have been, if that makes any sense. I honestly cant remember right now what the ph's were as the pics are on another phone.
UPDATE: The girls are recovering from a flush this morning. Ran about 10-12 gals thru each with a final runoff of about 6.2... I'm assuming this says something about its condition in the pics. My plan is to wait till they're dryish and hit them with 1/4 strength but what should it be ph'ed to ?
 
Hey everyone new to Growing here started in a 4x4 tent so I'm going to sub up to this form.

I got 4 plants going in a 4x4 tent. 7 gallon smart pots. Under 2 different 600 watt LED's.

I'm on week 5 of flower.
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Looks to me to be a Mag problem, I don't grow in soil but that's my take.

That was my impression as well. I mentioned it along with other generalities and hints because I thought it'd be better to help someone learn how to read their plants and deal with them than to just tell the person to do one specific thing. And also because I wasn't 100% sure, lol. Basically that thing about how if you build a man a campfire, he'll be warm for a day, but if you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life. Err... Or was it give him a fish versus teach him to fish? ;)

I know soil isn't your thing but any suggestions on how to address the mag ?

Magnesium deficiency - or unbalanced calcium / magnesium ratio - when using tap water? Epsom salt. I thought I recently discussed that in this thread; I guess it must have been a different one. Epsom salt is cheap and readily available, being found in grocery stores, drug stores, and under the sink in old ladies' bathrooms, lol (for soaking in a hot bath).

Start with a teaspoon of Epsom salt per gallon of water. We used to throw a little bit into holes in the garden before planting tomato plants, but for container plants I'd just add it to the water. You should see the issue reduced in new growth. I do not remember off hand whether or not it'll help the damage that is already present (I suspect not). I've heard/read of people trying to foliar feed it, but I've never bothered to do so... I prefer not to encourage salt deposits on the leaves, lol. They are, among other things, the plants' means for transpiration (via the stomata). This is also why I choose not to smoke in the grow area (well... that plus the slight risk of TMV in terms of cigarettes - but I wouldn't smoke a joint in there, either).

Your tap water most likely has calcium in it. This is why I am suggesting Epsom salt instead of a calcium / magnesium product. Epsom salt is basically just magnesium sulfate.

Your issue could, of course, be something else. But this is just about the most common issue one sees around here. In fact, I'm mildly surprised that you haven't already read a few threads concerning it.
 
Hi. I'm new to this too. I'll give you my opinion, but it's really just that. If your solution is 6.2 the chart says your roots will except the spectrum. This link is a bit long, but it asked the right questions. It's a worthwhile read.

Soil conundrum!?
 
I know soil isn't your thing but any suggestions on how to address the mag ? I have dolomite but to my knowledge its slow acting so not sure what to do.

Epsom Salts, at a gram per gallon, that is what I use in coco growing when needed.

Hope this helps.

GR
 
Here is what is going on in my 4x4, Stacked 315W vertical grow.

Lights off getting ready to work on them.
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Prior to tie back.
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After tie back.
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Lights back on.
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GR
 
That was my impression as well. I mentioned it along with other generalities and hints because I thought it'd be better to help someone learn how to read their plants and deal with them than to just tell the person to do one specific thing. And also because I wasn't 100% sure, lol. Basically that thing about how if you build a man a campfire, he'll be warm for a day, but if you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life. Err... Or was it give him a fish versus teach him to fish? ;)



Magnesium deficiency - or unbalanced calcium / magnesium ratio - when using tap water? Epsom salt. I thought I recently discussed that in this thread; I guess it must have been a different one. Epsom salt is cheap and readily available, being found in grocery stores, drug stores, and under the sink in old ladies' bathrooms, lol (for soaking in a hot bath).

Start with a teaspoon of Epsom salt per gallon of water. We used to throw a little bit into holes in the garden before planting tomato plants, but for container plants I'd just add it to the water. You should see the issue reduced in new growth. I do not remember off hand whether or not it'll help the damage that is already present (I suspect not). I've heard/read of people trying to foliar feed it, but I've never bothered to do so... I prefer not to encourage salt deposits on the leaves, lol. They are, among other things, the plants' means for transpiration (via the stomata). This is also why I choose not to smoke in the grow area (well... that plus the slight risk of TMV in terms of cigarettes - but I wouldn't smoke a joint in there, either).

Your tap water most likely has calcium in it. This is why I am suggesting Epsom salt instead of a calcium / magnesium product. Epsom salt is basically just magnesium sulfate.

Your issue could, of course, be something else. But this is just about the most common issue one sees around here. In fact, I'm mildly surprised that you haven't already read a few threads concerning it.

I appreciate u trying to help me diagnose my own plant instead of just telling me what's wrong and me not really not learning anything... just please don't set anyone on fire lol. Before posting anything i spent hours on google and forums investigating and although i learned a lot i was still left confused because the problems were affecting both new and old growth, there was some old slight light burn that changed what the new probs looked like so it didn't really match any pics i found and on top of all this i guess I didn't calibrate my ph pen correctly the first time because when i flushed them the runoff was 5.8 (my research suggests possible nute lockout and/or calmag def due to lockout?!) i keep hearing mag def from you guys so i guess I'm close. I flushed each 5 gal pot with 10-12 gals of plain neutral tap water with a final runoff of 6.2 (i read somewhere not to adjust more than .5 ph in a day) waited a couple days for pots to dry a lil before next step and already noticed clean new growth. I then carefully stirred up the top 2-4 inches of soil while sprinkling 4-5 tbs(about 1 tbs per gal of soil) of dolomite directly on roots then moistened with plain neutral tap water. I will wait to slightly dry and water with 1/4 strength FF nutes. I know the dolomite wont help me now but it will help buffer during flower so I'm happy but should i use the epsom for immediate mag or wait to see if raising the soil ph will now allow access to it ? And the calcium is most likely in my water so again should i wait to see if it clears up or address it now ? Last question lol, my runoff being 6.2 is at the bottom of the spectrum. Should i stress raising my ph before anything or will the dolomite raise it quickly enough orrr can i just fix it with my next feeding ? Thanks beforehand if you even bothered reading this far
 
That was my impression as well. I mentioned it along with other generalities and hints because I thought it'd be better to help someone learn how to read their plants and deal with them than to just tell the person to do one specific thing. And also because I wasn't 100% sure, lol. Basically that thing about how if you build a man a campfire, he'll be warm for a day, but if you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life. Err... Or was it give him a fish versus teach him to fish? ;)



Magnesium deficiency - or unbalanced calcium / magnesium ratio - when using tap water? Epsom salt. I thought I recently discussed that in this thread; I guess it must have been a different one. Epsom salt is cheap and readily available, being found in grocery stores, drug stores, and under the sink in old ladies' bathrooms, lol (for soaking in a hot bath).

Start with a teaspoon of Epsom salt per gallon of water. We used to throw a little bit into holes in the garden before planting tomato plants, but for container plants I'd just add it to the water. You should see the issue reduced in new growth. I do not remember off hand whether or not it'll help the damage that is already present (I suspect not). I've heard/read of people trying to foliar feed it, but I've never bothered to do so... I prefer not to encourage salt deposits on the leaves, lol. They are, among other things, the plants' means for transpiration (via the stomata). This is also why I choose not to smoke in the grow area (well... that plus the slight risk of TMV in terms of cigarettes - but I wouldn't smoke a joint in there, either).

Your tap water most likely has calcium in it. This is why I am suggesting Epsom salt instead of a calcium / magnesium product. Epsom salt is basically just magnesium sulfate.

Your issue could, of course, be something else. But this is just about the most common issue one sees around here. In fact, I'm mildly surprised that you haven't already read a few threads concerning it.

I foliar fed with epsom salts a couple of times because my pots were taking a while to dry and showing mag def symptoms. The symptoms stopped in the new growth, but with only a couple of sprays, I noticed a bunch of weird white flecks on the leaves from the epsom salts.

Are epsom salts actually salt though? Wondering how microbial life likes it.
 
A few things:
and/or calmag def due to

It concerns me somewhat when I see "calmag" in any reference other than a discussion of a Calcium / Magnesium supplement. IOW, there is not an element called "calmag," there are two separate elements, calcium and magnesium. They should be treated as such... One's plants can be deficient in one without being deficient in the other. In fact, as has been mentioned many times in many threads, an apparent deficiency of magnesium can be caused by an overabundance of calcium. (A plant can, of course, actually BE deficient in both elements, but this has been much less common in personally observed gardens.) Treat them as separate entities - which just happen to have a relationship.

plain neutral tap water with a final runoff of 6.2

By "neutral," you do mean that the pH of your tap water is 7.0 exactly, correct?

Many folks' tap water isn't all that "plain," lol. Mine has enough calcium in it that I have to clean my drip coffee maker monthly (by running a pot of "white" vinegar through it, after which I discover lots of crap on the (stack of) filter(s) that I placed in the filter basket prior to running the vinegar through a cycle. And I feel that cleaning the coffeepot more often would not be inappropriate, but I am just a bit lazy, lol. I also see calcium deposits form on the plumbing fixtures over time. IIRC, a few years ago my water registered a (calculated) 330 PPM on an EC meter.

I could, I suppose, cut my tap water with distilled water, perhaps one part tap water to two parts distilled, for a somewhat more palatable 110 PPM of total dissolved solids. <SHRUGS> But it's easier and cheaper to simply understand that it has (significantly) more calcium in it than many nutrient manufacturers assume to be the case and to, therefore, add supplemental magnesium to make up for the imbalance in the ratio between the two elements.

BtW, do you have a water softener or any other device which might adulterate your water (IOW, add some kind of salt content to it, et cetera)?

Is there any way for you to remove a small quantity of soil from one of your pots (preferably not directly from the surface)? If so, try mixing it with an equal quantity of distilled water, waiting a minute or two, and measuring the pH of that.
 
What's a good exhaust setup for a 4x4 tent I have a 4 inch right now do not like it

I have a 6" 400CFM exhaust and a 6" 240CFM booster for intake. Still a bit more negative pressure than I'd like, but haven't gotten a carbon filter yet. I was on the line about 6" vs 4" but I wanted to dial it down rather than crank it up. As far as performance is concerned it defiantly is enough for the 4x4 and filter.
 
I have a 6" 400CFM exhaust and a 6" 240CFM booster for intake. Still a bit more negative pressure than I'd like, but haven't gotten a carbon filter yet.
I'm going to invest in a nice setup for my next run. I didn't even run an intake I just open my tent during the day. But it seems like when I have my tent open I'm just wasting power running my tiny exhaust but it still removed some stale air in the room.
 
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