The 4x4 Grow Tent Club

Well I had what I thought was a big temperature problem since my plant in the tent became very wilted and temps were around 90 degrees the other day, I think max hit about 94 or 96 in the tent near the canopy. I didn't think the wilting was due to lack of water since the soil was damp when I probed to the knuckle. It also didn't help that the a/c in the apartment had been off on a somewhat warm day. The AC had also been turned off in the apartment on the night in question, but I had been maxing out at around 86 degrees previously without AC and then with the AC I had been a few degrees cooler, maybe 82 max. I figured I should try to move the fans around like Tortured Soul had suggested. This was somewhat difficult as the reflector I have is a bit too big as it is for the tent. It would be no issue if the fan could be mounted outside the tent though. I would like both fans outside the tent, but I'm not sure where I can mount them.

Anyways, I now have it setup as this: duct runs from outside of tent with a 90 degree bend to block light, into the light, to the fan, out the tent, and out of the room; carbon filter above the light, taped directly to the fan, venting out the top of the tent, fan running maybe 1/8th of a turn above min speed; two 6" intake vents open at the bottom with 90 degree bent flexible ducting to block light. Sides of the tent are sucked in, but temperature seems to be slightly better. I am planning to get another fan, maybe a 4" and use it for a filtered intake and then run the tent exhaust out of the room as well. That should improve temps further. I mainly didn't run another exhaust out of the room from the tent yet since I wanted to see if this setup was even going to be better. With an intake fan, I can exhaust the tent at full speed without issue again and should be able to maintain temps very close to ambient temperature. I'm very hopeful that I'll be able to use the full power of the lamp. But I'm seeing what it will take to really run a 1000 watt light in a 4x4 tent. I think I read it takes an 8" fan to cool a 1000 watt bulb properly. maybe I can get an 8" fan, figure out how to mount it outside the tent, and hook that up to the light exhaust and use the two 6" fans for controlling the internal tent environment.

I decided to do a little experiment right now. I just turned off the tent exhaust fan with the temp sitting at 82.9 at the canopy. Time was 6:40. At 6:45, the temp is now hitting 85.3. At 7:10 the temp was at about 86.3 and the humidty had risen to 50%. I decided to turn the fan back on, but at full blast. In less than a minute, the temp is down to 83.5. I put the fan back on a nice low setting so it doesn't strain the tent too hard and it is holding at a nice 83.1. Ambient in the room is about 79 or 80. I suspect the next step I can take to reduce temps would be to vent the tent out of the room. Combine venting the tent out of the room with a full 440cfm flow through the tent and an 8" fan on the light, I think I can manage to run the full 1000 watts. If I can't pull the full 1000 watts, maybe I'll be able to at least run with the 600 watt setting through the hot part of the summer.
 
-- PLEASE ASSIST A FELLOW 4X4 GT MEMBER --

First time grower and not sure where's the best section to post this question.... please tell me what you see !!!
420-magazine-mobile879517775.jpg
420-magazine-mobile1693000657.jpg


5 gal Root Pouch
FFOF w/ 35% perlite
600w MH on 50%
74 deg avg DT - 68 deg faithfully NT
60 avg RH

About 6 weeks since beans popped and everything was moving pretty smoothly. Germinated in RW under NanoDome T5, moved to solos for 2 weeks and then final 5 gal. Topped, supercropped and LST'd. Pretty sure it adds veg time but i figured wth why not ?! Fed for the first time last week using week 5 of this schedule
420-magazine-mobile1850589909.jpg
. From what I've gathered I'm sure I'm having some cal-mag issues and/or N def. Got some dolomite lime that i plan on adding at 1 tbs per gal of water but as its slow to do its job I'm not sure how much that'll help right now. One of my main reasons for this post tho is the SPOTS !!! The closest pic i can find online is spider mites but besides the spots I don't have any of the other symptoms of mites sooo....? Hopefully someone will recognize this !
 
What is your pH and what type of water are you using? If it is reverse osmosis water, then you need cal mag. Also check to make sure the pH of the water coming off the plants is good. FF tiger bloom is very low pH. I don't know about the Grow Big. I would stop using nutes for now and make sure your water and pH is good.

Check the pH of your water you have been using. If it is tap and the pH is above 7 or below 6, you should adjust it and then water till you have plenty of runoff. Measure the pH of the runoff. If you are using reverse osmosis water, use cal-mag or similar. Your plants will recover.

Good luck on your first grow. Don't overdo the training techniques. Learn how the plant responds. You have a fun hobby.
 
Tortured Soul,

You were right. After I attached ducting to take the tent exhaust out of the room, I checked my temps this morning when I woke up. The temp was 79.9 at the canopy. This is the lowest I've been able to get it so far. I'm thinking of modifying my veg cabinet the same now. But it is ok for temps to be 85 in the veg cabinet.
 
This is all very good to know!:Namaste: -Apologies I was reading another thread and confused the post dates. I thought this was newer...Again. This WAS the correct post...ah Sour D.

I'm in an odd situation myself and cannot decide what to do with the air from the tent, put it in the attic or seal the room??

I live in a moderately hot but humid climate during summer and winter. It gets chilly in winter but the issue now is summer and heat/humidity.

Here is the situation. I have a 10x12 room that will eventually be an entire grow room but until the funds are all saved,

I have a tent in the room with a 1KW light, cooled reflector and 6 inch fan/filter.

The room has a 5,000BTU Window AC unit that doesn't use outside air, The compressor and condenser etc are outside, the air is drawn in over the evaporator and sent right back inside the house. (there are different kinds as I'm sure most people here know just want to clarify.

I'm still setting things up while my seedlings are growing.

Here are my main questions:

1) Do I start to seal the room now, let the tent exhaust into the room and if so, will opening the door a few times during lights on be enough to let enough Co2 into the whole room or should I look into Co2 now? if a 12x10 room has enough CO2 for a night cycle is basically what I'm asking.

2) Put the hot air leaving the tent to blowing into the attic, but now the AC cooled/dehumidified air is also being forced out of the room. but it's taking with it water vapor.
 
Broken record question coming at yah so if you there is a thread you know of please point me in that direction if you dont mind. Anyways, I am a little conflicted as to a good cost effective inline fan for my 4x4 tent. Right now my first choice is an Active Air 6", but have been seeing varying opinions on its quality. I did search this thread and saw that many are happy owners but just like everyone else just want to be setup correctly. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
 
Broken record question coming at yah so if you there is a thread you know of please point me in that direction if you dont mind. Anyways, I am a little conflicted as to a good cost effective inline fan for my 4x4 tent. Right now my first choice is an Active Air 6", but have been seeing varying opinions on its quality. I did search this thread and saw that many are happy owners but just like everyone else just want to be setup correctly. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Most of them are just rebranded versions of the same fan mechanically. I like the one I got from SPL but can't find a 6" one anymore.
 
Most of them are just rebranded versions of the same fan mechanically. I like the one I got from SPL but can't find a 6" one anymore.

Thanks! I've also read people saying that the 6" 400cfm fan in general creating too much negative pressure for their 4x4 even dialed down. I want to say they didn't have a carbon filter on, but would I be better off with a 4"?
 
Thanks! I've also read people saying that the 6" 400cfm fan in general creating too much negative pressure for their 4x4 even dialed down. I want to say they didn't have a carbon filter on, but would I be better off with a 4"?

I would just get the 6", the negative pressure is not a big deal and the benefits of more air flow will come in handy late in flower if you end up encountering humidity problems. Mine would still get negative pressure even with a filter on, but there's not really much ill effect of negative pressure versus high humidity.

Be sure to put some kind of filter on the fan, dust and stuff can bind up the fans. If you can find one with metal fins instead of plastic, that's usually a good indicator it's a little more built. Some come with a warranty, but with the price to ship the fan and everything, it's almost not even worth it since it's costs over half the price of a new fan to ship it back to them. *cough*Apollo*cough*

What I will do in the future is just go to a local grow shop ( if you have one ) and get one of the 2-for-1 deals they have for about 110. You save a little money and you end up with a backup if one goes out; it does happen, and you don't want to leave you tent un-ventilated.

I had a little Apollo one that started squeaking on me. I didn't wait for it to fail before I got a new one. It's now in a box, and it can also work as a backup if the one I have no craps out. But yeah, for the most part, they're typically all the same things. The SPL one I got seems a little nicer, it has a "quality control inspection" sticker on it, which I think might just be like slapping a sticker on a Honda and claiming it can go fast. One thing that's curious is my ballast will not switch on if the fan is operating on the same circuit as it is.

I also got a VanTec once, "new", that came with paint stains and scratched all over. So whatever you purchase through, be sure you can make returns.
 
Thanks for the reply Cman. Of course i left that crucial part out smh... i use tap water that's neutral with a runoff of 6.5. 1 gal gives me around 20% runoff in the 5 gal fab pot, is this avg ?

Tap water that runs off 6.5. Is that with no nutrients added? Did the problem only present after you used nutrients? Did you use both big bloom and the grow big at full strength as suggested on the label? If both of those are yes, what was the ph of the nutrient solution? Also that was probably too much nutes at once. Be sure to water with plain water and maybe run a little bit extra through the pots. It could be nutrient burn.

I am leaning towards a cal mag issue caused by low ph of the water after adding the nutrient solution.
 
Thanks! I've also read people saying that the 6" 400cfm fan in general creating too much negative pressure for their 4x4 even dialed down. I want to say they didn't have a carbon filter on, but would I be better off with a 4"?

That was me. I am happy for now with my two 6" fan setup and running my light at 600 watts, although I will try to up it to 1000 tonight and see how temps behave. One fan for the light and one fan for the tent. Probably a 6" fan on the light and a 4" fan on the tent will be sufficient. Maybe the best would be a 6" on the light and two 4" for the tent, one intake and one outtake. I like the idea of a carbon filtered intake and outtake.

I'll report back after I turn the light to 1000 watts.

Do you have ac in the room with the tent?
 
I would just get the 6", the negative pressure is not a big deal and the benefits of more air flow will come in handy late in flower if you end up encountering humidity problems. Mine would still get negative pressure even with a filter on, but there's not really much ill effect of negative pressure versus high humidity.

Be sure to put some kind of filter on the fan, dust and stuff can bind up the fans. If you can find one with metal fins instead of plastic, that's usually a good indicator it's a little more built. Some come with a warranty, but with the price to ship the fan and everything, it's almost not even worth it since it's costs over half the price of a new fan to ship it back to them. *cough*Apollo*cough*

What I will do in the future is just go to a local grow shop ( if you have one ) and get one of the 2-for-1 deals they have for about 110. You save a little money and you end up with a backup if one goes out; it does happen, and you don't want to leave you tent un-ventilated.

I had a little Apollo one that started squeaking on me. I didn't wait for it to fail before I got a new one. It's now in a box, and it can also work as a backup if the one I have no craps out. But yeah, for the most part, they're typically all the same things. The SPL one I got seems a little nicer, it has a "quality control inspection" sticker on it, which I think might just be like slapping a sticker on a Honda and claiming it can go fast. One thing that's curious is my ballast will not switch on if the fan is operating on the same circuit as it is.

I also got a VanTec once, "new", that came with paint stains and scratched all over. So whatever you purchase through, be sure you can make returns.

Mushroom Adventures Episode 9 -- Clean Your Ventilation Equipment! - YouTube

You weren't kidding about that filter... Aware that this is a different growing application but dayummmmm that thing is FILTHY.
 
I have a problem with cat hair too and someone recommended that I buy a portable air cleaner, like a HEPA unit, for the inside of the tent.

Part of the issue is that there's areas around the zippers and such for hairs and dust to come in through. I tried the cut-to-fit type filters but they didn't help much, and I honestly believe that most of the hair comes in when opening up the tent doors.

I haven't tired the portable air cleaner yet but I think I will soon.

This is yet another problem that I will face unfortunately. I live in a zoo with my wife working with animals, we breed dogs and have a bunch of cats. I am hoping keeping things in the separate room will alleviate some as they don't go in there at all, but like you brought up, I carry probably a pound of that crap on my clothes constantly lol.

Thank you for sharing and I would like to know what solution that you came up with!

Any ideas for prevention before opening the door?
I know vacuuming around might by the obvious help but then you basically have to wait about 20 min in quarantine for all the dust and hair and crap that didn't get sucked up to resettle before you open the tent. Maybe I'm over thinking it ;)

Cheers!
 
This is all very good to know!:Namaste:
Here are my main questions:

1) Do I start to seal the room now, let the tent exhaust into the room and if so, will opening the door a few times during lights on be enough to let enough Co2 into the whole room or should I look into Co2 now? if a 12x10 room has enough CO2 for a night cycle is basically what I'm asking.

.

Lots of DIY solutions for making a CO2 generator.

DIY - Homemade CO2 System for Indoor Marijuana Plants - EASY - YouTube
 
420-magazine-mobile1338080144.jpg
420-magazine-mobile2009303471.jpg


The first is my astrodawg, the second is a pic online with ph fluctuations. Several growers diagnosed me with nute burn and i agreed due to symptoms only becoming present after first feeding ever was an accidental full dose and also finding a few leaves doing the claw with the tips burnt. I watered today with plain tap water which is naturally neutral and my runoff was 6.2 ...... now I'm just confused

Soil - FFOF w/ 35% perlite (reason why 1st feeding was so late)
Temps - 75
RH - 60
600w MH on 50%
 
I wouldn't normally reply, because I don't know enough, but that doesn't look right. I had neut burn with my plants and it looked nothing like that. Are some of the tips and edges browned? Maybe it's a specific chemical toxicity (sort of like burn?). What did you feed them? Could that be burn from a light? Sorry I can't be of more help.

PH Balance for hydrp & soil----Leaf deficiency chart

Could be a nutrient toxicity, but it could also be a deficiency (picture is somewhat suggestive). In regards to the latter, it might even be an element that you're feeding (or which is present in your soil) in sufficient quantity but one or more other factors are causal in your particular situation. For example, improper pH causes nutrient lockouts and/or the inability to uptake certain nutrients. An overabundance of calcium causes plants to evidence signs of magnesium deficiency, because there is a ratio between those two elements when things are in proper balance (interestingly, this seems to apply to people as well as plants).

BtW, nutrient burn in general terms (IOW, mixed the correct ratio of nutrients, just fed way too much, lol) that I have seen ordinarily caused burned-looking tips on the leaves - not random patches throughout the surface. Compare your plants with the many(, many, many) images and text descriptions about nutrient deficiencies/toxicities that have been posted here at the forum. You could also examine your plants when they are in an undisturbed state in an attempt to see whether or not your plants are feeding tiny insect life; a good magnifying glass or jeweler's loupe can be helpful in this, because some insects are so tiny as to be somewhat difficult to see with the naked eye when not moving.

From the picture, this doesn't strike me as being indicative of light-bleaching, but this can also cause yellowing due to lack of chlorophyll/chloroplasts in the cells.
 
I wouldn't normally reply, because I don't know enough, but that doesn't look right. I had neut burn with my plants and it looked nothing like that. Are some of the tips and edges browned? Maybe it's a specific chemical toxicity (sort of like burn?). What did you feed them? Could that be burn from a light? Sorry I can't be of more help.

PH Balance for hydrp & soil----Leaf deficiency chart

Thanks for jumping in.
420-magazine-mobile797151861.jpg


You can see clawing and the tip burn better in this one... i feel like its a combo of things
 
Back
Top Bottom