The 4x4 Grow Tent Club

Opening the flaps works, but then a lot of light escapes and can leak in during the dark time. This tent will be used exclusively for flowering. I also want a better filter than the side vents since I have four cats. Even with the intake for the room being filtered, I get cat hair in the tent. I ordered another 6" fan and carbon filter. I figure that neutral air pressure will work well and will probably help my temps some. The filter will ensure that no cat hair or dander gets in, except when I open the flaps to tend to the plants.

Edit: the flaps being open help, but I really would prefer the sides of the tent not be sucked in at all. I will do neutra air pressure.
 
Opening the flaps works, but then a lot of light escapes and can leak in during the dark time. This tent will be used exclusively for flowering. I also want a better filter than the side vents since I have four cats. Even with the intake for the room being filtered, I get cat hair in the tent. I ordered another 6" fan and carbon filter. I figure that neutral air pressure will work well and will probably help my temps some. The filter will ensure that no cat hair or dander gets in, except when I open the flaps to tend to the plants.

Edit: the flaps being open help, but I really would prefer the sides of the tent not be sucked in at all. I will do neutra air pressure.

Can you just just increase the size of your intake? That would be your best solution. My tent has negative pressure even with my fan on low, I do not see it as a problem.

GR

I do clean or replace my prefilter at least twice during the grow.
 
stacked 315 W CMH (3100 K)

As you're mounting them vertically, and one each base-up and -down, you might want to check to make sure those bulbs are rated for universal orientation.
 
As you're mounting them vertically, and one each base-up and -down, you might want to check to make sure those bulbs are rated for universal orientation.

Yes they are Philips 315's and they are rated universal, any orientation.
Thanks for the heads up, always nice to have extra eyes.

GR
 
Can you just just increase the size of your intake? That would be your best solution. My tent has negative pressure even with my fan on low, I do not see it as a problem.

GR

I do clean or replace my prefilter at least twice during the grow.

I have one 6" intake hole and one 4" hole opened at the bottom. I think having a full on carbon scrubber will be the best filtration for tre intake to guarantee no cat hairs. To really pull air through that effectively, I do need the intake fan. The sides pulling in prevent my oscillating fan from turning properly too.
 
So i got the new fan and filter installed in the tent. I had to turn the intake fan down quite a bit to get about neutral pressure. But now the sides aren't being sucked in and the tent seems to have more space overall. I'm sure the filter will work better than any ghetto rigged Home Depot option.
 
Flowering day 50.

Before flush/after flush

Using 660w real power led grow light.

6 x 11L pot size & Scrog
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I think having a full on carbon scrubber will be the best filtration for tre intake to guarantee no cat hairs.

I don't believe I've ever seen or even read about someone putting a carbon filter on their grow's intake. I'd think window screen (available in fine mesh as a barrier for tiny insects/etc.) or those universal cut-to-fit window a/c filters that cost around $5 would be sufficient if you're not performing surgery or assembling intricate electronics in there, lol.

But now the sides aren't being sucked in and the tent seems to have more space overall.

If you adjust things so that there's a little negative pressure in there - sides "sucked in" slightly - then you know that any odors are exiting via your exhaust setup and not through any other openings/holes. That's generally looked at as a good thing (note that I stated slightly).
 
I don't believe I've ever seen or even read about someone putting a carbon filter on their grow's intake. I'd think window screen (available in fine mesh as a barrier for tiny insects/etc.) or those universal cut-to-fit window a/c filters that cost around $5 would be sufficient if you're not performing surgery or assembling intricate electronics in there, lol.



If you adjust things so that there's a little negative pressure in there - sides "sucked in" slightly - then you know that any odors are exiting via your exhaust setup and not through any other openings/holes. That's generally looked at as a good thing (note that I stated slightly).

Yeah, I am taking it to the extreme to filter the intake air. I am not too worried about smell. Any air that comes out of the tent will be pulled back through a carbon filter. The room the tent is in has negative pressure. The neutral pressure seems to be good for my temps too. Better airflow has given me better temps so far.
 
I have a problem with cat hair too and someone recommended that I buy a portable air cleaner, like a HEPA unit, for the inside of the tent.

Part of the issue is that there's areas around the zippers and such for hairs and dust to come in through. I tried the cut-to-fit type filters but they didn't help much, and I honestly believe that most of the hair comes in when opening up the tent doors.

I haven't tired the portable air cleaner yet but I think I will soon.
 
Hi TheFertilizer,

I'll be sure to update how the intake filter works. I think having neutral air pressure will help minimize any rush of new air with cat hairs in it into the tent when I open the flaps. I tried filtering the intake to my room, which I suppose should have its own fan to be truly efficient. I think the room intake is often neglected when using a tent. I didn't realize how important it was since I always had had an easy way to vent outside the building.
 
Hi TheFertilizer,

I'll be sure to update how the intake filter works. I think having neutral air pressure will help minimize any rush of new air with cat hairs in it into the tent when I open the flaps. I tried filtering the intake to my room, which I suppose should have its own fan to be truly efficient. I think the room intake is often neglected when using a tent. I didn't realize how important it was since I always had had an easy way to vent outside the building.

That's a pretty good idea as far as neutral air goes, to mitigate that. I would usually just turn the fan off when I opened up the tent, but I don't like having the heat build up when doing that because I use an air cooled hood.
 
That's a pretty good idea as far as neutral air goes, to mitigate that. I would usually just turn the fan off when I opened up the tent, but I don't like having the heat build up when doing that because I use an air cooled hood.

I noticed another facet to my ventilation system today. I have active exhaust of the tents out of the room. The intake for the room also creates resistance to the ventilation system for the whole setup. Adding a fan in sequence to the tent system should help boost the overall airflow through the room/tent system. In computer air cooling, neutral airflow is usually the goal for high performance air cooling. Intake fans of some type are almost always recommended. I am not sure if my temps were better yesterday due to improved air flow or just cooler ambient temps. I will see.

I think active intake will prove to be fruitful. That said, I don't think the cat hairs are too bad in the buds. You just pull them out as you break the buds up.
 
I don't have a cats, so no problem there, think goodness as I am not a big fan of cats.

I do have minor negative pressure but it is manageable as I have a three speed fan and also a variable speed controller on the fan, so I have a lot of control. And to date heat has not been an issue. I have considered a intake fan but the negative pressure is just not that bad for me.

Intake air is taken from a bath cabinet through the wall/into the tent and then is exhausted at the top of the tent through the wall and into my garage.
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Enters the tent lower right front,
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then exits at the upper left into the garage.
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I am glad I decided to respond to this because I cause me to go in to take a pic and this is what I found, I forgot to replace the screen on the intake after the last grow.
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What I did was replace the screen but also put prefilter on the screen. That is it in the first pic.

I will be evaluating the heat in the tent using the two stacked 315W lamps. Using a 6 inch fan and filter so I am considering increasing the size of my intake to either 8 or 10 inches.

GR
 
Question: Why not have one exhaust fan on your light - which is "fed" by air from outside the tent, and a separate exhaust fan for the tent? You can, assuming a good seal on your light, then forgo the carbon filter on the light's exhaust run; this may well allow you to use a smaller fan since the airflow won't be restricted. Since your tent's exhaust setup will then have much less heat to deal with, the carbon filter will be more efficient and last longer while at the same time you should be able to reduce the airflow - or even have the option to set that fan up on a timer if you'd like to add supplemental CO₂ to your grow.

There are insulated covers for air-cooled reflectors which will be of additional help in this regard.
 
Question: Why not have one exhaust fan on your light - which is "fed" by air from outside the tent, and a separate exhaust fan for the tent? You can, assuming a good seal on your light, then forgo the carbon filter on the light's exhaust run; this may well allow you to use a smaller fan since the airflow won't be restricted. Since your tent's exhaust setup will then have much less heat to deal with, the carbon filter will be more efficient and last longer while at the same time you should be able to reduce the airflow - or even have the option to set that fan up on a timer if you'd like to add supplemental CO₂ to your grow.

There are insulated covers for air-cooled reflectors which will be of additional help in this regard.

I do not use a cool tube on my lamps, as I run bare bulb vertical. Did use a cool tube yrs back running horizonal but switched it to bare bulb when I went to vertical.
But if you have a cool tube on your light you you really don't need an extra fans, your intake air should come from outside the tent in what ever manner you choose. From that point this is a system that works.

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Just exhaust it from the room, but not to the room you pulled it from.
 
I think what TS is saying, is to use two smaller fans in parallel. One for the light only to deal with heat, and one to deal with the air exchange and the lower amount of heat in the tent from light hitting the leaves. It might work, however, I think the fans in series probably work just as good.

Although, the volume of air in a cool tube and short run of ducting is much smaller than the volume of the tent. A fraction of the tent. You would be pulling cooler air, much faster over the hot bulb. This would significantly reduce the heat output of the bulbs, if the theory is right. This is tempting to test, but I don't know if I feel like reworking my tent to test this out. Then I would have my negative pressure issue again.
 
I think what TS is saying, is to use two smaller fans in parallel. One for the light only to deal with heat, and one to deal with the air exchange and the lower amount of heat in the tent from light hitting the leaves.

Yes, that. It's not feasible for "bare-bulb" vertical grows, of course. But it seems like the best way to go for air-cooled reflectors. I've never really been a fan of Cool Tube type setups; the grower loses about 9% of the light intensity every time the light must pass through glass (with any type of reflector that places the light source behind glass) - but with a tube, a portion of the light must pass through glass multiple times if the actual reflector is above the tube. The design also restricts one's choice of reflector. And, while it isn't of earth-shaking importance, lol, IDK if the insulated reflector covers (to help stop radiant heat) are available for Cool Tube setups. On the other hand, I can think of a couple of situations where a glass tube might be helpful - for example, if one is going vertical, es cannot simply take a different style of device and turn it on its end, lol, because a traditional reflector would then block light from a great deal of grow room real estate. I have used a glass tube in the past (not the actual trademarked Cool Tube product... do a search for Bake a Round ;) ). And right now I'm not even using an air-cooled setup of any type due to circumstances. Some days, as the rednecks say, it's, "Run what ya brung."

A lot of people look at the output from their grow room - no, not the BUD - as one thing: Hot stinky air. But it's actually two things, hot air and odor. It turns out that carbon filters last longer when they're not treating heated air. Treating the two things as separate means that the grower can adjust fans separately. This seems to be an obvious thing, but...

Cold outside in your area in the Winter months? That heated air waste product from your grow can help heat your house. Sure, you can do this with a single fan setup. But if you are not at home (or you are, but other people are, too) when your filter starts being overcome, you've just scented your house. FAR less likely to happen if that hot air is unscented because your hot light is on a different ventilation run.

With separate runs, you can expect your light/reflector might stay clean longer. First, because you're not pulling air directly from your grow room for it, second because you can have your light's fan on the same timer that your light is on - when the light shuts off, so does its fan. During dark hours, you can continue to run your grow room's odor-control fan/filter on an as-needed basis. This can cut electricity costs if you were previously running one large fan 24 hours per day, or help prevent odors from escaping if you were previously running one large fan/filter, but had it shut off when your lights did.

I've always been told that the best sort of fan (both in terms of performance and longevity) for a carbon filter was one that would work against pressure/obstruction. The fan that is solely intended to ventilate a reflector need not be rated to work against obstruction (aside from the minor work involved in moving air through a duct run of reasonable size).

It might work, however, I think the fans in series probably work just as good.

<SHRUGS> Not really. I mean such a setup might be adequate. But it won't perform as well. It's pretty difficult to exactly balance two fans on the same run, so one will be working harder (and doing more work, which is not - strictly speaking - the same thing). One fan will end up having its airflow "pulled" - and the other will have it "pushed" - so to speak. When someone installs one fan, then later decides that another fan must be added to the same run, this is generally (not always) a sign that the person simply purchased an inadequate fan. Or of a less than optimum setup... I've certainly been there (and so have many other people), where I put something together - and not always with a zero budget and little time :rolleyes3 - that ended up being somewhat... lacking. Instead of redoing things properly, I added a band-aid. I need more airflow, oops. My tent is collapsing because I am out-flowing my passive intakes, oops. I have a fan and filter but I can still smell the grow at night or during random periods, oops. I wasn't thinking of anything but the price and bought this plastic PoS from China to move air through my baggy-arse Chinese grow tent, oops. Et cetera.

Although, the volume of air in a cool tube and short run of ducting is much smaller than the volume of the tent. A fraction of the tent. You would be pulling cooler air, much faster over the hot bulb. This would significantly reduce the heat output of the bulbs, if the theory is right.

There is that. You're not reducing the heat output of the bulb, though (but I understand what you mean). You're just ensuring that no odor enters that airflow. And the airflow will tend be cooler, through the simple fact that it is not being pre-heated in the grow room.

This is tempting to test, but I don't know if I feel like reworking my tent to test this out.

Just slap another band-aid on it, then. Err... I mean add another fan to the same run. But... yeah, there seems to be something in the human mind that prevents us from easily giving up (so to speak) on what we've already accomplished in order to redo the thing. Seems like we're programmed to stick with the same thing and attempt to improve - or fix - it instead of giving full consideration to starting over. Otherwise, the phrase, "Beating a dead horse," wouldn't have been coined. Humans, eh?
 
You are a tortured soul. I am overall happy with my setup as it is now. I suppose your solution to cat hair would be to get rid of the cats.

But I will bite. You do raise a good point about isolating heat and general atmospheric air. The advice I was given to deal with the tent being sucked in was to just open the side vents. While that does work, it provides minimal filtration and no light protection. People were suggesting that I close the flaps and turn the fan down every night. Now I am curious, if the light is ducted directly out the tent with no filter, and out of the room, will the tent be cool enough with no air exchange, just an oscillating fan? CO2 could be used effectively and humidity could be optimized. Or a fan can pull air out once every hour or half hour.

I'll try running the air just through the light and have the fan pulling through the hood. Would one fan be able to handle two lights? Is it possible that heat will almost be eliminated from the tent and cabinet?
 
Now I am curious, if the light is ducted directly out the tent with no filter, and out of the room, will the tent be cool enough with no air exchange, just an oscillating fan?

Pulling air from somewhere else to supply the above in the first place? Yes, that could be enough heat removal on its own, but it depends on a few variables. As I mentioned, there are covers available for many models of air-cooled reflectors, and this would help ensure that the vast majority of the heat produced cannot radiate out into the grow space. Sure, it'll radiate downwards (as the cover doesn't block the glass, lol), but the glass should be, at most, warm when you stick your hand on it for several seconds at a time.

And, yes, this is pretty important if you would like the option to add extra CO₂ either now or in the future. Even the DiY "CO₂ factory" devices with yeast and sugar can become significant - or at least less insignificant, IDK - if the little bit that they constantly provide has a chance to stick around for a bit in between tent air refreshes (if you end up still doing them, either to remove the relatively small amount of heat that'll still build up or to remove some odor).

Whether your individual environment and setup would allow you to shut off your grow space fan altogether,shut it off for lengthy periods throughout your lights-on cycle, or just turn its speed down is something that you'd have to determine.

CO2 could be used effectively and humidity could be optimized. Or a fan can pull air out once every hour or half hour.

Exactly; exchanging your grow space's air suddenly becomes a tool to be used when and as needed, rather than something that must happen constantly (or at least constantly when the lights are on).

I'll try running the air just through the light and have the fan pulling through the hood. Would one fan be able to handle two lights?

Well, it depends, lol. This all works due to the temperature differential between your intake air and what you're attempting to cool. If the variance is not large then you'll typically require greater airflow. And, of course, once your air passes through the first light it has then become warmer - so it will not be as effective. So the answer to this one is going to have to be maybe ;) .

Is it possible that heat will almost be eliminated from the tent and cabinet?

Possible, yes. I would say that it is quite probable that the majority can be removed in this way. Again, it depends on conditions, the prowess of your lights' fan, et cetera as to the degree of effectiveness.

A few more things:

Insulating any duct runs that are in the grow space will also be helpful.

There is a relationship, to an extent, between the amount of light-energy that cannabis plants are capable of processing and the temperature of their environment. In other words, if you manage to give your plants enough light that you're wasting a portion of it at 78°... you'd be wasting significantly less at 87°F. If the way I worded that makes any sense, lol. The exact range is going to vary somewhat from strain to strain; one that originated from a location on the equator would tolerate a higher range than one that came from a location that had cooler temperatures.

Adding CO₂ will raise the temperature at which the plant can thrive. Therefore, if you've pretty much sealed your grow space and the temperature is still a little warmer than optimum, boosting the CO₂ from ambient (what are we at now, 400+ PPM? <SIGH>) levels to 800 PPM would help a lot.

Most plants - including cannabis - that receive plenty of water and plenty of airflow are capable of self-cooling to an extent via transpiration. Be aware that this will add moisture to the air. It can also surprise you with a very thirsty plant, lol. I once read that a large oak tree can transpire 40,000 gallons of water per year. That's an average of over 109 gallons per day - and, since they tend to go dormant in the Winter, the actual number on days when the tree is not dormant, and especially on the hottest days, will be much higher. On the other hand, if your area is sealed and you do not vent even a little, your humidity will become quite high and this process will become much less effective (but you'd be worried about mold, I guess, at that point anyway).

I once had several 100°+ days due to a comedy of errors I mean a combination of circumstances. My plants were fine. I was growing them in 20+ gallon tubs (DWC hydroponics) so they had plenty of water. I was providing what I like to think of as just about enough dissolved oxygen to keep a mouse alive if it had fallen into my reservoir, lol, and that helped a lot. The bud might have been a little more airy that harvest. But every time I looked at the plants, they were taking it like troopers. Me, OtOH? I was miserable... IIRC, they were going through 13 or so gallons each per day.

I'm just rambling.

You are a tortured soul.

That's what I keep hearing....
 
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