THC Bomb & WW/Skunk - CFL Hood/Veg HPS/Flower

AfricanGrower said:
Like I said, I had a set plan just like yours to gradually increase PPMs all the way into flower. Here is a picture of it!
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I totally forgot to upload these. Don't really concentrate on the acronym meanings or other jibberish, but focus on how my ml/.386gallon doses slightly increased and plateaued as you have suggested. I can tell you that this just sits underneath the my drainage tray now ;)

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Update RD04,

The WW/Skunk broke ground at some point in the last 24 hours. The THC Bomb is still yet to make "her" debut. I added some Heisenberg Tea to each cup to ensure the rock wool (RW) has a bit of wetness (but not wet) to it. I also mixed up some General Hydroponics (GH) Flora series at roughly 30% strength. PPMs are @ 211. I had them down to about 190 before adjusting PH. I will readjust the PH in the morning before I add a splash to each.

This is a bit of a gray area for me as I'm not really sure how many times a day to water, but being as though these are just seedlings, my thought is to not over water as I want the roots to go looking for drink, and since the cotyledons will feed the plant for a little bit, I presume the added nutes will not even be looked at when present. Any thoughts on how much to feed/water, and how often?

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For the first week (or until the time of first transplant) I usually only water seedlings once every 2 days. Then I gradually build up to once a day by the time they get to the 1/2 gallon pots. I plan on watering once a day until the Bubb is in flowering, then I will change to twice a day: once at lights on, and once more 8hrs later.

But it is semi-important to let the top croutons of your pot dry up before watering. I say 'semi' because I have learned that these croutons have the tendency to be wet on top but come to find out that the roots have sucked the moisture dry from the bottom of the pot. So because having a 'set time' when to water never worked for me either, this is what I usually did to tell when it was time to water. I take a couple of sample croutons from different areas of the top of the pot, and I squeeze them between my fingers. If a drop or two comes out, I usually wait another day, if it is just moist on my fingers, then I usually water later that day. If it is completely dry, I water IMMEDIATELY. You will know it is dry because the plant will wilt fairly quickly, within minutes even as I experienced with the cubes.

Although I would not recommend you squeeze out all your cubes right now, at least not until you get your bag of Grodon in, because they tend to loose there porousness after being squeezed.
 
I can't even order the grodan for at least a week, maybe longer. If need be, I will chop the rest of the 2" cubes. This morning I fed them each 15ml of 30% (+/-) of Flora nutes with CaMg and a few drops of silica to raise the PH slightly. It is holding tight at 5.7 and did not want to alter the stability.

Capn said he transplant's frequently b/c the cubes give little to no stress when transplanting, or at least that's his impression with this technique so far in his grows. I think 5 or 6 times total. I don't feel to comfortable with that so I will do so, but be very observant. I think I'll be good to leave them in the solo cup till the roots grab onto all the cubes, and that'll buy me some time to get the grodan's. I'm glad I planned for 2 extra weeks of veg so I have some breathing room to get the 28x28 closet bought and constructed. Looking forward to that experience. I really enjoy designing and building something. With hopes, I get a good idea to totally quiet the 400 CFM centrifugal fan.

Here's the plant orientation I am thinking about using to maximize potential to every area. I'm sure if both of these plants turn out to be female (only THC Bomb is feminized), I will have my hands full as either should be more than capable of completely filling the space under a scrog by themselves. Don't know if I will try to limit each plant to just a few colas, or allow the smaller branches to compete. Either case, I am putting as much thought into it as I can now, so when I get there I am more equipped.

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Looks great sky! For the seeds have have not broke ground yet... make sure they are warm (80 degrees). Sit them on your VCR if you need to. Same goes for tiny seedlings.

>>>I wish I would've had a 6 gallon bucket b/c it filled right up to the edge.

For you, 2-3 gallons of the tea should be plenty. I doubt you will be able to use that entire 5 gals. You can 1/2 the recipe.

African grower >>>For the first week (or until the time of first transplant) I usually only water seedlings once every 2 days. Then I gradually build up to once a day by the time they get to the 1/2 gallon pots. I plan on watering once a day until the Bubb is in flowering, then I will change to twice a day: once at lights on, and once more 8hrs later.

+1 The nice thing about cubes is that it's hard to over water. If you're scared of them drying out, you can water every day with no issues.

>>>Capn said he transplant's frequently b/c the cubes give little to no stress when transplanting, or at least that's his impression with this technique so far in his grows. I think 5 or 6 times total.

The reason for this, as you will build a nice root mass. Think of it as putting down a new layer with each new pot. With each pot, roots head for the sides and start circling, wasting space. If you're using the tea, the roots almost outgrow the plant.

When transplanting you can wait until your cubes are on the dry side, and then literally pull the plant out by the stem and all the cubes come with it! If you think you can go longer, put it back in! In this pic, you can see my arm coming in from the right. I held the camera under the root ball.

WTF, did I just say: "If you think you can go longer, put it back in!"

That's what SHE SAID. :rofl:

 
I get what you're sayin Capn, grow them out a bit and fill up the outer space, then when transplanted they repeat the process and have built up layers of dense roots because each transplant caused them to stop and circle. Thanks again for this technique.

Also, can you say one more time what a "part' of gro, micro and bloom is? 1 part = 4ml, correct?
 
Skybound said:
I get what you're sayin Capn, grow them out a bit and fill up the outer space, then when transplanted they repeat the process and have built up layers of dense roots because each transplant caused them to stop and circle. Thanks again for this technique.

Also, can you say one more time what a "part' of gro, micro and bloom is? 1 part = 4ml, correct?
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5ml, if you're mixing up 5 gallons at a time.
 
Lovin the training idea, should work great!
 
How about Jean Gal? I had a bad experience once. Don't want to go down that road again.
 
I just fed the solo cups each of 15ml of the 30% strength Flora Nutes with CaMg and a few drops of silica. The WW/Skunk sprouted a few days ago and the THC Bomb is still yet to arrive. At one point I had a clear plastic lid to something resting on both cups to trap in humidity, but once the WW/Skunk sprouted, I took that out to be in open air all the time. The THC Bomb cup is now covered with a folded piece of paper from the printer. My thought is that it will trap in some moisture and the paper will start absorbing it if the moisture level gets too high. If it turns out that the THC Bomb is very late, or does not sprout at all, I will be doing some LA style Flux and LST to begin working on the L shape. I think this will buy me some time to get this other seed caught up.

On another note, I am now expecting this WW/Skunk to outgrow the THC Bomb, so all along the way, I plan to do things to the Jean Gal to stunt her growth just enough to keep her even with the THC Bomb. I also plan to take a clone or two to be rooted then immediately flowered. While the mom's continue in veg, I WILL find out the genders of each and proceed from there.
 
Everything sounds on point here Sky :thumb:

For timing matters you should know that a plant that matures fairly fast in veg, usually has a shorter 'stretch' period when put into flower, and vice versa with a plant that isn't mature when flowering is induced. Just a thought, but other than that, all sounds good ;)
 
Of the 2 scenarios, I'd prefer the former to better suit how growth rates (or lack thereof) of these plants are going. I really hope this Tbomb sprouts soon otherwise I'll drop another, only this time soak the seed till the shell splits.
 
How many days has it been, 3-4? I would still give it some time before completely scrapping whatever investment was put into that seed.

I sometimes think I am TOO lucky that I have successfully germinated and rooted every seed I have grown (except for that one bagseed at the beginning of my journal) but then again...

The one thing that EASILY causes sprouts not to form is the lack of heat in the grow medium. I treat them just as they were in a papertowel on my cable box, making sure I keep the medium at a warm temp until cotyledons have opened.
 
Hey sky, if you have another of the TBombs don't even worry about soaking first get two paper towels wet, wring most of the water out and fold it in half a few times and put the seed inside and then put the paper towel in the baggy. Put it on top of your cable box or on top of the fridge just keep it warm and out of direct light and in two days open it up and plant.
I never soak any seeds i just put them right into wet paper towels, you can set it all up and wait till its warm, you will get great germination rates if you'll try it. I have soaked before but for me it just adds another day to the project.
 
Thanks AG and S1ing. When I was a teen and used to try and grow, my buddy and I used to germinate in a damp wash cloth, put that in an empty butter bowl that was held in a fish tank so that water level went all the way up the side of the bowl, and turned the heat all the way up. 2 or 3 days later, most of the seeds were opened. So that's what I'll do from here on out. Now I have the seed in a small damp cube on top of a heat mat, but it's just taking too long now.
 
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