THC Bomb & WW/Skunk - CFL Hood/Veg HPS/Flower

Sky,

Glad to hear you're back at it. I read thru your well worded post, and it sounds like a great plan.

>>>I think I'm gonna use wire fencing instead of a strung screen b/c the wire fence can be cut to allow for stem passage to the next cell.
I agree. The wire fence is so much easier to work with, and to move branches from one square to the next, without damaging it.

>>>keeping decibels low is priority #1.
+1 on this. When I was doing RDWC, it was so loud the house was practically humming.

>>>THC Bomb (Bomb Seeds) and a regular WW/Skunk
Excellent time proven choices. I was just working on a BLOG entry about how I want to get back to some old school strains.

Cap
 
Hey Cap, I posted a few questions in your blog too about light timing and when to start feeding. What do you think of my plan (pictured)? I try to best describe all major events in a schedule, that way I always have some form of individualized reference. I'm just not sure about the PPM ladder and at white times I should increase, by how much, where to plateau and when to taper down to a flush. I'd also like to know generally how much water the plants may require at each age, but this is probably as simple as how long it takes to completely saturate the grow cubes (now in solo cups). I suppose I will begin experimenting now to dial that in and try and program this digital timer.

Any rate, thanks for stopping by.
 
Timeline_Schedule.JPG
 
Skybound said:
Timeline_Schedule.JPG
Click to expand...

I like most of this plan, and I like that you're thinking ahead. I responded in the BLOG. For some reason, I am not being notified of BLOG replies consistently.

1. First... since you're using distilled water (necessary for beneficial bacteria), don't forget you WILL need cal mag or calimagic, asap. If you can afford it, also get flora blend.

2. Transplant up a pot size when it really needs it, not necessarily on a set schedule. With rockwool grow cubes, you can actually pull the plant up out of the pot and check the roots, and then put it back in, with absolutely no stress to the plant. Try to move up slowly and wait as long as you can to build a nice mass. I waited as long as I could on this one. If you're using ancient forest tea and the florablend, the roots tend to OUTGROW the plant.


3. Again with topping, it will depend on growth. Top it the first time to make the "Y" when it is about this big:

I would just top, instead of take a cutting off the top for a clone. If you want a clone, there will be lower branches that will be perfect for clones anyway. Take your clones just before flowering.

4. 600ppm max in veg; refer to that BLOG entry for details on ppm per stage. It is important to switch to equal parts of bloom, micro, grow a week before flower, for faster flowering. I wouldn't decrease PPM in late stages of flower.

5. "light defol leaning towards super crop". Not sure what this means, but removing fan leaves here and there is ok once in flower but I don't advise super cropping (kinking branches) in flower. It's Stressful and the plant will have to focus effort on that wound rather than flowering. It is less stress to slowly bend it a bit so it doesn't kink. Check my "bend and top" article for more info here. If you're using a wire scrog, you won't need to super crop, unless you do it by accident like I did:


6. Not sure what "take monster crop clones" means. But if you took clones before moving it to flower, you won't need any more clones. Flowering clones take a long time to get back to rapid vegetative growth.

7. 3-4 days of flushing the rockwool with pure water is plenty. At that time, you can just water to waste with pure water for a few days and buds will taste great!

In 4 months you'll be sending me a picture like this!
 
Sorry, I was a little baked when I typed "super crop" when I really meant "Lollipop". I am hoping to build a plant that has no growth below the split that will flower. I will leave them for clones only and stub the rest. A Monster Crop clone is a cutting taken roughly 21 days into flower. This is just really an experiment on my part to see if I can root it, and how many shoots will be produced once rooted (if rooted). This manner of growing goes against the style of growing that I am trying to perfect, I know, but I still want that knowledge. Monster clones are purported to produces about 50 branches from the bud once it begins it's vegetative growth. I'd also like to know what said freak plant would look like in beginning stages of veg, and could it be used as a monster mom for creating many clones from a single plant at a given time. I'm also curious to know if I could clone such a plant, how the clones will respond timing wise, root time, veg time etc. If anything pans out, I think this might be a good method for producing for the nice weather outside.

I will update my plan to include what you just shared. Thanks Capn! +REPs for the great tutelage.
 
>>>I typed "super crop" when I really meant "Lollipop". I am hoping to build a plant that has no growth below the split that will flower.

Why? This style of growing is short and stocky, not tall and thin. This "lollipop" word is being thrown around way to casually. :-) Taking the puny sprouts from the underside of a plant is not lollipopping. I'm 90% certain your plan is to prune out puny lower growth, which is good, but shouldn't be referred to as lollipopping. THIS is lollipopping. It's goofy and not sure why anyone would do it.

thenewERA015_1_.jpg


and this:

[video]http//www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8-uoBEuok8[/video]

>>>A Monster Crop clone is a cutting taken roughly 21 days into flower. This is just really an experiment on my part to see if I can root it, and how many shoots will be produced once rooted (if rooted).

If you have the time and space for it, go for it! I've only done it a few times after I realized I forgot to take a clone. They root fine, just take a little longer, and grow stupid for a few weeks and then finally get back to regular vegetative growth.
 
If not lollipopping, then definitely a variation as I plan to have one main stem completely clean till it forks. Both of those will be the main branch producers. I may top a second time, but am still on the fence. I went and got the Ancient Forest and Aqua Shield. Still need molasses and Flora Blend, but I think I'm in OK shape for now. The molasses should be cheap at a grocery store. When I soaked the cubes, I adjusted the ph with calmag and a little silica to bring it back up so there is at least something in there till I get the tea brewed.
 
Micro Update.

I mixed up 5 gallons of the Heisenberg Tea.

5 gallons of Distilled Water
5ml/gal Aqua Shield (25ml)
2 cups of Ancient Forest
1 TSP of Great White Mycorrhizae
1 TBLS Grandma's Molasses

I wish I would've had a 6 gallon bucket b/c it filled right up to the edge. So I'm gonna let that stew for a few hours then give a little to the seeded cubes also pictured just to make some head room. I will then aerate for 36-72 hours according to The Capn's blog entry.

DSCF1447.JPG
 
Hey my friend it sounds like youre going to be Fluxing! Great we need more people jumping aboard. Please check my thread on it below and my post in the Lounge section on this method and why we want it known as FLUXING!
 
Agreed, I shall flux them when they're young and that will save me from having to remove larger branches in the future.

Here is a revised schedule that includes what/when the flux is, also added 2 weeks veg to better align with The Capn's method of growing, and the PPM range stays in the 600 range for veg.

Timeline3.JPG
 
Timeline_Plan.JPG
 
Nicely done bro so far. I have been reading through since yesterday and have been really excited that you are back in the game!

Now there were a couple of things I was going to comment on, but Capn has basically taken the words right out of my mouth. I really like your use of the rockwool until you purchase your cubes. Although I am sure it is still possible to grow with 'chunks' instead 'croutons' you'll just have a more saturated medium.

Your timeline is basically the exact replica of what I have gone through, PPM-wise, topping-wise, and even transplant times. The only thing that I was not planning on was reducing PPMs that early during flowering. It will really affect your yield if buds haven't fully developed and deficiencies start to form. I really am excited about your breeding experiments as well, as I have been starting to conduct secret breeding experiments towards new info on these 'super males' that I have been recently interested in. I am here to see how it goes, and will update you on my progress as well.

Timeline2.JPG
Timeline_Schedule.JPG
 
Skybound said:
Timeline_Plan.JPG
Click to expand...

Nice update on the timeline! I still would not recommend lowering the PPMs that drastically until you start to flush. Logically, it may seem that you are slowly transitioning the plants into a lower PPM feeding regime in preparation for flush, but going back to what I said previously on the matter. This is where buds really start to pack on weight, so I would not starve them until I am about to flush
 
AfricanGrower said:
Nice update on the timeline! I still would not recommend lowering the PPMs that drastically until you start to flush. Logically, it may seem that you are slowly transitioning the plants into a lower PPM feeding regime in preparation for flush, but going back to what I said previously on the matter. This is where buds really start to pack on weight, so I would not starve them until I am about to flush
Click to expand...

That's the kind of feedback that I am looking from everyone. To the matter at hand. Should I build PPM gradually to a short plateau and just plummet for the flush, or what? How would you have it outlined? Also, I am all for the extra weeks of Veg to maximize the plant's ability to really fill out the space we have to work with, but I am not sure how such a long duration plateau will impact the plant. Should I gradually increase PPM over a broader time period? Also coming into Veg between 300-400, is that too high? I'm really trying to flesh out all of these details now and reference from there to guide me through the grow. Nuancial details can be worked out along the way, but I really want a schedule to have as guide. I understand plant growth will not be adhered to a man's schedule, so adjustments will need to be made all along the way, but I am confident that once I have this mapped out on paper to everyone's liking, I will already be in better shape.
 
Hey man whats up! Just thought I would drop in and say I am following your grow. Good luck! I am interested to see how your THC bomb turns out because that is a strain I have had my eyes on for awhile! I even think I got some free WW/skunk seeds from a herbies order so that is a + to follow aswell!

I have heard good things about them rockwool chunks and I was even thinking of putting them in my tray around my 6 inch blocks!

Anyways looks like you got a good plan for everything and I am going to enjoy following along!

:goodjob:
 
Hey backpack, If you want to know more about the croutons, look at other growers like s1ingblade, The Capn and African Grower. They all have current grows using croutons and yes, that was exactly what I was thinking on your journal. I was trolling through The Capn's 420 blog this morning and was reading an entry regarding how big root balls get. I think your grow would give you so much more back if you ripped the plastic off the rock wool block and put the block in a nice big pot (5 gallon or bigger) and filled in the remaining space with cubes, chunks or croutons. If memory serves, I think you feed drain to waste, correct? The Capn's methods consist of flood and drain, top feed, and recirculating top feed during flowering. Whatever the case is, those growers are seeing DWC like growth booms in rock wool because they let the roots reach wide and train them every step of the way. Also, Capn says there is no stress when transplanting with rock wool.
 
Skybound said:
Hey backpack, If you want to know more about the croutons, look at other growers like s1ingblade, The Capn and African Grower. They all have current grows using croutons and yes, that was exactly what I was thinking on your journal. I was trolling through The Capn's 420 blog this morning and was reading an entry regarding how big root balls get. I think your grow would give you so much more back if you ripped the plastic off the rock wool block and put the block in a nice big pot (5 gallon or bigger) and filled in the remaining space with cubes, chunks or croutons. If memory serves, I think you feed drain to waste, correct? The Capn's methods consist of flood and drain, top feed, and recirculating top feed during flowering. Whatever the case is, those growers are seeing DWC like growth booms in rock wool because they let the roots reach wide and train them every step of the way. Also, Capn says there is no stress when transplanting with rock wool.
Click to expand...

I have a 25 gallon rez hooked up and flood/drain 2 times a day (currently) I water to waste while vegging in another room until I throw my plants in the flower tent which is a flood drain set up. My tray is not big enough to put a big bucket in since its only a 2x4 tray with like 6 inch high sides. I am pretty sure I can just throw the RW chunks in the tray and cut out like an inch of the plastic from the bottom of the 6 inch cubes and the roots will grow into the chunks. Keeping the plastic on my cubes helps cut down on algae growth and keeps the roots dark inside the cube
 
great journal so far mate,

not sure if i can help on the ppm's much as ive never actually tested ppm or even got anything to test it with,
i just give the max i can for the age of the plant, if i see slight nute burn then i back off slightly, but the nutrients im currently using im giving full dose from as early as 2 weeks old,

the only time i stop feeding is if i spot a problem and ill lower the feed or skip a feed to allow the plant time to recover or the last 2 weeks of flower ill stop feeding nutrients and just feed plain water with some run off each time so it sort of gives a light flush but still lets the plant use up what nutrients are left in the plant, when i see the leaves turning light green then yellow from the bottom up then i know the soil is free of nutrients and the plant is now using what its got stored in the leaves,
 
Hi Sky...I found your Journal!:thumb: Great job. With all your planning, scheduling and research, this time you should end up with buds the size beer cans!! I will be stopping by from time to time.
 
>>>Should I build PPM gradually to a short plateau and just plummet for the flush, or what? How would you have it outlined?

That is how I am planning things. Basically, I gradually went from 200 PPMs (170 PPMs of tapwater) from seedlings to 500 PPMs on my 5th till flower. That's where my PPMs will start at around 700 and rise from there, leveling out at just under 1000 PPMs. mind you I am using FF line of nutes so I HAVE to hold back on the amount of portions I add to the mix. I ha\ave kept the plants with just barely yellowing/browning tips on lower growth, just on the cusp of TOO much!

>>>Should I gradually increase PPM over a broader time period? Also coming into Veg between 300-400, is that too high?

Like I said, I had a set plan just like yours to gradually increase PPMs all the way into flower. Here is a picture of it! BUT the important thing I learned is that the plant will tell me exactly how much she needs and it steered completely astray from the set guidelines I laid out. I say start with 1/8th strength which is usually in that 200-300 range (adjust if using tapwater); then gradually increase spacing it out 2 weeks at a time. You will really start to see changes in growth within 24 hours in my experience with the croutons if, for example your pH is too high or there is a start of a nute burn. I currently keep the very tips of my lower growth with slight yellowing/browning tips which indicates to me that she is at the cusp of TOO much nutes.

BUT, that is one thing I really have enjoyed about using the Grodan, it really has fast results in every aspect of growing: the root penetration, the aeration and absorption rate, and the overall convenience;)!
 
Back
Top Bottom