THC Bomb & WW/Skunk - CFL Hood/Veg HPS/Flower

[b.real]

Could garlic powder be used or even the juice from crushed garlic?

garlic powder is highly processed and the natural antibiotics are killed. even cooking garlic will ruin it. raw is the best.

when I had my plants outside all of them caught blight (tomatoes first, then basil, then dill) but the jalapeno plant never did. it produces capsacin (along with many known and unknown chemicals) which they actually make a synthetic form of now to rub on joint injuries and stuff

capsaicin*

I didn't know why my tomatoes were sick, I thought it was a nutrient issue till I put up one photo on here and a vet says blight, do not compost the plants, burn them. im grateful for the people in this community

next season I will not get the foliage wet when I water, and I will remove any and all dead leaves so they can't host blight

 

[b.real]

Natural Pest & Disease Repellents & Cures










Remedy

Problem


Baking Soda Spray

Anthracnose, early tomato blight, leaf blight and spots, powdery mildew & as a general fungicide


Chive Spray

Prevention of apple scab and downy mildew on cucumber, pumpkin and zucchini.


Compost & Manure Teas

Blights & general disease


Corn & Garlic Spray

General fungus preventative


Elder Leaf Spray

Blackspot & mildew


Garlic Fungicide

Spray #1

Mildews & leaf spot


Garlic Fungicide

Spray #2

Fungicide and Insect repellent


Horseradish Spray

Brown rot in apples & general disease prevention


Hydrogen Peroxide Treatment

General disease preventative and direct treatment


Milk Spray

Different common mildews on cucumber, asters, tomato, squash and zinnia foliage. Also for mosaic disease control on cucumber, lettuce & tomato.


Tomato Virus Protective Spray

Prevention of tomato, potato and pepper leaf blights


Apple Cider Vinegar Fungicide

Leafspot, mildew & scab

Spraying Basics

1. It is best to use any type of spray in the early morning or the cool of evening. Do not spray when temps are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit! Your plants may "burn" or have a reaction to what you are using in excessive heat. This is known as "phytotoxicity."
2. Always perform a test on a small portion of the plant material first. Wait 24 hours to observe any negative reaction. Proceed if there is no damage.
3. Really and truly...more is not better. If you are not getting good results don't increase the strength of these remedies without testing first.
4. Target just the area you need to treat. Be careful... try not to harm the good bugs! You

don't want to run off your allies.
5. When working with sprays or dusts always protect your exposed skin and face. Some of these ingredients can be very irritating to your skin, eyes and mucous membranes, especially any hot pepper sprays.



Specific Disease Controls



Apple tree scab: Grow any member of the onion family around the base of the tree. Chives work the best. You can also make a tea from chives and use as a spray on your apple trees to help protect from scab.



Brassica (Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower) Keeping the soil pH around 7.0 to prevent club root disease.



Peach tree leaf curl: This is a common disease of peach trees. Sprays of horsetail tea, garlic (look further down the page for recipes) and seaweed can help to prevent this problem. Growing chives underneath them also helps.



Neem Oil will help prevent rust disease, black spot and can act as a general fungicide.



Potato scab: When planting your potato sets put some wilted comfrey leaves in with them to prevent scab. Also keeping the soil for your potato patch with a pH of 5 or below (acid) or a pH of 7 or above (alkaline) to prevent scab.



Natural Disease Treatments

Apple Cider Vinegar Fungicide: For leafspot, mildew, and scab.

To Make: Mix 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar (5% acidity) with one gallon water and spray in the morning on infested plants. Good for black spot on roses and aspen trees too.

Baking Soda Spray: For anthracnose, early tomato blight, leaf blight and spots, powdery mildew, and as a general fungicide. On plants that already have powdery mildew, hose down all infected leaves prior to treatment. This helps to dislodge as many of the spores as possibly to get better results. Use as a prevention or as treatment at first signs of any of the diseases.

To make: Mix 1 tablespoon baking soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil with one gallon of water. Shake this up very thoroughly. To this mix add 1/2 teaspoon of pure Castile soap and spray. Be sure to agitate your sprayer while you work to keep the ingredients from separating. Cover upper and lower leaf surfaces and spray some on the soil. Repeat every 5-7 days as needed.

Chive Spray: For preventing apple scab and downy mildew on cucumber, pumpkin and zucchini.

To make: Put a bunch of chopped chives in a heat proof glass container, cover with boiling water. Let this sit until cool, strain and spray as often as two to three times a week.



Compost and Manure Teas: Keep blight and other pathogens away from plants.

Soak the area around plants and use as a foliage spray. Do not use on seedlings as it may encourage damping-off disease.



Various manures supply nutrients as follows:

Chicken manure: nitrogen rich - use for heavy feeders such as corn, tomatoes and squash.

Cow Manure: potash: use for root crops.

Rabbit manure: promotes strong leaves and stems.

Horse manure: leaf development.

To make: Fill a 30 gallon trash can with water. Let sit for 24 hours to evaporate the additives (use rain water if you can). Add about 4 shovels worth of manure to this and cover. Let it sit for 2-3 weeks, stirring once a day. Strain and apply as needed. For compost tea, make and use just the same as you would the manure tea. This is another terrific reason to compost all those prunings, grass clipping and kitchen wastes.



Corn and Garlic Spray Fungus Preventative: This blend is surprisingly potent preventative spray to protect your plants.

To make: Gather a handful of corn leaves, clematis leaves (any kind) and as much of the papery outer leaves of garlic as you can. Process thoroughly in a blender. The mix with sufficient water to make a thin liquid. Let sit for an hour, strain and spray on plants as a preventative.



Elder Leaf Spray: Elder leaves have fungicidal properties and may be useful against mildew and black spot diseases.

To make: simmer 8 ounces of leaves in 16 ounces of water for 30 minutes. Stir this thoroughly, then strain. Take 16 ounces of warm water and mix with 1 tablespoon of Castile soap. Add soap mixture to the elder water, spray as needed. Note: Set your sprayer to a coarse or large droplet setting as this mixture will tend to plug a fine setting.



Garlic Fungicide Spray #1: For leaf spot and mildews

To make: Combine 3 ounces of minced garlic cloves with 1 ounce of mineral oil. Let soak for 24 hours or longer. Strain. Next mix 1 teaspoon of fish emulsion with 16 ounces of water. Add 1 tablespoon of castile soap to this. Now slowly combine the fish emulsion water with the garlic oil. Kept in a sealed glass container this mixture will stay viable for several months. To use: Mix 2 tablespoons of garlic oil with 1 pint of water and spray.



Garlic Fungicide Spray #2: Fungicide and Insect repellent

To make: Put in a blender: 1 whole head of garlic, 3 cups water, 2 Tbs canola oil, 4 hot peppers and a whole lemon. Blend until finely chopped. Steep mixture overnight. Strain through fine cheesecloth. Use at a rate of 4Tbs per gallon of water. Store unused portion in the refrigerator.

Horseradish: Preventative for fungal disease and brown rot in apple trees..
To make: Process one cup of roots in food processor till finely chopped. Combine this with 16 ounces of water in a glass container and let soak for 24 hours. Strain liquid, discard the solids. Now mix the liquid with 2 quarts of water and spray.

Hydrogen Peroxide Treatment: To prevent bacterial and fungal problems. Will prevent disease spores from adhering to the plant tissue. It causes no harm to plants or soil, however don't use on young transplants or direct seeded crops until they have become established.

Warning: Always test on a small portion of plant tissue first to check for any negative reactions. Do not proceed if there is any damage to plant tissue. Do not substitute food grade H2O2 for the common H2O2.

To Make: Spray plants with undiluted 3 percent hydrogen peroxide that you can buy most anywhere. Be sure to cover tops and bottoms of leaves. Do this once a week during dry weather and twice a week in wet weather. This works as a preventative. If you already have problems use this as a direct treatment.

Milk for Mildew: mildews on cucumber, asters, tomato, squash and zinnia foliage
This works by changing the pH on the surface of the leaves, so they are less susceptible to mildew.

To Make: Use a 50/50 mixture of milk and water. Thoroughly spray plants every 3 to 4 days at first sign of mildews or use weekly as a preventative measure. Milk can also be mixed at a rate of 2 ounces milk to 18 ounces of water and used as a spray every 7 to 10 days to treat mosaic disease on cucumber, tomato and lettuce.

Tomato Virus Protective Spray:
To prevent the many viruses that attack tomato plants this simple remedy really works! The antitranspirant protects the plant surface against disease spores. The skim milk provides the tomato plant with calcium. A calcium deficiency is common in tomato plants. Antitranspirants can be used to protect many plants against bacterial disease before they attack. They are harmless and will not block the pores of the plant tissue.
To make: Mix 1/2 teaspoon of antitranspirant with 8 ounces of skim milk, and 1 gallon of water. Spray plants. Clean out your sprayer when done and flush with fresh water..
NOTE: an equivalent of prepared powdered milk may be substituted for the skim milk.
Removing leaves on the lower portion of the plant may help lessen contact with disease spores and certainly won't hurt the plant.

 

[Richard Richardson]

I've never read anything about use of garlic in a grow. Can someone share a brief overview of how to use it and why it should be used? I will go do some research to see what I find about it.

Hi Sky You have been accepted as the cheif insurer for the KayaK Club.

Congratulations. Here is a VDV, aka Van Damme Video

You use too much molasses.

All that slime and foam are different types of bacteria and fungi.

A mixture of the ones you feed them, and the ones that float around in the air.

The yeasts and bacteria and whatnot are eating the excess sugars

and converting them to co2 and alcohol. And Bubbles, or whatever

Yeasts are chemoorganotrophs, as they use organic compounds as a source of energy and do not require sunlight to grow. Carbon is obtained mostly from hexose sugars, such as glucose andfructose, or disaccharides such as sucrose and maltose. Some species can metabolize pentose sugars such as ribose,^[17] alcohols, and organic acids. Yeast species either require oxygen for aerobic cellular respiration (obligate aerobes) or are anaerobic, but also have aerobic methods of energy production (facultative anaerobes). Unlike bacteria, no known yeast species grow only anaerobically (obligate anaerobes). Yeasts grow best in a neutral or slightly acidic pH environment.

You use so many different things and most of them probably already do have molasses in them.

Your plant and roots look good though. Not everything is a pathogen.

What you see is a biofilm. clean it off with water, but don't bleach it.

Sprinkle dried crushed garlic on your cubes and water them in.

That will keep insects away from your roots and medium and plant

 

[Skybound]

Thank you for sharing guys, WOW, lots to process.

 

[Skybound]

Oh, and I made another halo to spread the feed out across the whole top of the medium. Same concept as the previous one, just added another halo and diverted 4 holes to fill between the 2, the rest of the inner point inward, and outer point outward.

 

[b.real]

Thank you for sharing guys, WOW, lots to process.

no problem. I just copy pasted that information lol

 

[Richard Richardson]

O rly?

 

[Skybound]

I checked the meters this morning and pH spiked again to about 6.8, adjusted twice (assuming the 2nd was close enough) and went to construct another light hood to fit my HPS in. I just checked again and it has already risen to 7.1 and that white foam is back. I just added 25 drops of pH down with hopes it will be within range for today's 2nd feeding @ 8:00 PM EST. Being as though I have isolated the top feed, feed res/runoff res, I can rulle out anything in the rockwool or roots which is fantastic news, but still leaves me in a pickle. Until I can get up the scratch to get some CALiMAGic, I will keep adjusting with pH down. This CaMg is too complicated, and if it isn't that, then I will likely be going back into dirt.

Due to my room mates roll of aluminum flashing being at work, I cut a piece of thin steel with hopes of using it as a reflector, but b/c it is so rusty and I don't have a wire wheel, I will try to see if I can repurpose the CFL hood as I'll be taking it apart anyway to use as supplemental lighting.

 

[AfricanGrower]

I just got my hands on some GH CaliMagic and some really cool 'bennies' samples! I'll be updating my journal tomorrow with some pictures. Hopefully we will finally be able to isolate the pH spikes in both of our grows!

 

[Skybound]

Mine started walking away from 5.8 after about 24 hours. 36 hours it started to jog or sprint. What a nightmare.

 

[AfricanGrower]

Damn. Well I'm glad to report that the 4 gallons (out of 12.5g) left in my res from this weekends holiday away only jumped to 6.3. However, the waste water measured at a pH of 7.8!!

 

[Skybound]

I made and hung a DIY HID hood that is currently incomplete. I intend to go into flowering light tomorrow sometime, but I still have to work out a good schedule b/c I'm pretty sure our microwave is on the same circuit and don't want both drawing at the same time. Also another major concern I have is heat. At some point, I will be drilling out a 4" hole in the center of the large flat surface and mounting one of my 110CFM PC fans right to. I will of course use weather strip to decrease vibration and add flex ducting right to the business end of the fan. From there it is sent to the partitioned upper closet that I might try to pack up with carbon prefilters with hopes that it is sufficient enough to scrub the air of dank bud smell. This would be preferable b/c those prefilters are very porous and spongy and will allow max airflow through it which is what I need to handle the heat. Still don't yet know what kind of noise will be made with 2 of the 110CFM fans blowing, but I think I'll be able to fashion something to deal with noise. Also am readjusting my schedule so minimal attention is needed in the closet on the weekends so I will mix up tea tomorrow with decreased molasses and life goes on.

 

[danklover79]

Looking good Sky, nice mods, and I dig the diy halo.

 

[Skybound]

Inner ring doesn't drip, haha. I guess this little 160 can't produce enough pressure. The outer ring skirts the inner lip of the pot and from what I saw, it emits from most of the holes drilled in the outer ring. Maybe once salt buildup increases, the inner ring will become a little more active.

 

[AfricanGrower]

Looking good in here Sky! I like the DIY hood, as always a well versed craftsman! Though I have one concern with how the pictures depict your setup. I noticed that your ballast is inside your closet space, now is that in your grow area, or in your ambient intake area? If so, you will be producing 4x the amount of heat than you could be saving if you would run the ballast as far away from the grow space as possible.

 

[Skybound]

I considered that before mounting to the ceiling inside the grow space. That will be a risk I will take for now and see if the heat will become manageable. I expect at first there will be a fair amount of heat buildup. Right now, there are no air restrictions after the fans so they'll draw at max capacity. I just don't know the amount of time it will take me to get up what I need to most efficiently remove heat from the grow, but I hope to handle that in the next couple days. Right now, the temps are holding to 82° F @ 50% power draw, so that's an acceptable starting number. When all is said and done, I will have one of my strong PC fans mounted on top the hood with a flex duct fashioned to it. This will enable the fan to pull the most of the heat right from the source and cabinet air secondly. Everything about this cabinet is far from master craftsman quality. I find design flaws pretty much every time I open the door. It is ghetto by any standard, and b/c of that, it is tricky to modify it and not have other problems stemming therefrom. So I try to mod it as little as possible. To better manage heat, I will add more Armor Si (silica) which will add that much more pull to alkaline and equally an added pain in the ass. Also will be adding 4 CFLs for side light which will assist when I need to take out the hood to make mods to it. If all goes according to plan, I should be able to keep heat minimized once the hood mods are complete.

 

[AfricanGrower]

>>>Right now, the temps are holding to 82° F @ 50% power draw, so that's an acceptable starting number.

Is this your standing temperature right now with just the CFLs and fans running at 50%?

If this is what your temps are like without your ballast running, I can give you a brief scale version of the amount of heat they can produce. Running my ballast at 100% power, outside of my grow raises ambient room temperature from 62F to 79-84F. That's around a 20F difference, given I have a 4' x 2' tent in a 4' x 12' closet.

Based on my experience, the ballast will not be manageable when it comes down to exhausting its heat. However, being able to exhaust the 400W HPS is a much more viable task to accomplish. If you somehow pull this off, I definitely will be bowing down to your engineering ingenuity

 

[Skybound]

lol, no really, lol. I took out the CFLs a little over an hour ago. I am only giving for 4 hours of light for today, then dark for 12 and so on. Tonight the flower light comes back on @ 10PM. As it stands now, the fan is still mounted just above the ceiling near the ballast. What I was hoping is to have the heat brom the ballast internal fan blow right at this other fan and have all the heat get sucked up and out. I never used an HID before so I didn't know that the ballast creates that much heat. I will watch temps over the next few days and if push come to shove, I will drill some holes and mount the ballast externally. Only down side is that because I'm trying to have actual night/day times be opposite grow night/day times, I will have to drill the holes in the night hours if need be.

Next couple days I expect I will learn a lot more about my grow as I still am yet to discover gender of the plant, plus I get some HID experience that will assist in planning future builds.


Edit - FYI, the color temp is only 2100k, the CFLs will be 2700k.

After the fan that is pictured is another fan just on the inside of the outer skin. I can leave it right where it is, or use it to mount to the hood with ducting between the 2 fans. If I do that, I will have to fashion a small wye to also allow the ballast to dump hot air into the ducting.

 

[TheCapn]

Wow, sky, she really blew up since the last time I saw it. Good job!

That fan on the floor isn't running, is it?

 

[donpaul.p]

Hi mate, nice set up,

you know your ballast have you got it mounted upside down, im not sure if this is likely to cause problems but they make them to be sitting flat so the heat sinks are fitted so that the heat rises inside the ballast and up the heat sinks, the way you have got it now means the heat is rasing up into the compnents instead of up into the top of the ballast where the heat normall would go to,

not sure if it makes a difference with yours or not, with my ballast which is a 400watt digital one it gets pretty toasty and has vents in both sides and at one end, so to help keep it cooler i vented the top so the heat could rise up out of the ballast instead of just out the sides, since doing this ive noticed my ballast is a lot cooler to the touch, but mines not a cooled ballast with a fan but i will be fitting 2x 12v computer fans into the body of the ballast so it keeps it running much cooler and should make it last a bit longer.

another thing i dont really like about the light hoods is that they could put some vents into the top of the hood so the heat could rise striat up instead of forcing it down or out the sides, you dont have this problem with a sealed hood but the bat wing type and round type just build up heat inside the hood or force it down the bottom, so ive mounted a 12fan at one end of the ballast then it pulls the hot air out from the end of the ballast and out the side which is pretty warm when you put your hand near the fan, im pretty sure it would make more sense for the makers to cut some vents into the tops of the hood, if they was the raised type vents so the light couldnt shine up then this would make a huge difference with the temps near the plants.