You could use Microsoft spread I think it is?? But you still need the grows,to get the data, to put into system !?
yea i have got libreoffice and openoffice and have tried both of those which look exactly the same by the way. but libreoffice was ment to be better support for .xlsx files . so i staretd of with open office first as thats the one i automaticaly went to first before finding out libreoffice was better and i got the data into it selected all the boxes i wanted , pressed inseret chart and i get a chart with nothing on it, at first it only went up to 12 when my temp ranges where betwen 16 -21 , i managed to get it to meaasure up to 30 but my line graoh didnt show up just a graph with no lines i got the temp and time scale on the x and y with a range from 0-30 but couldnt get any of the data top show up on the graph
why cant i just poress give me graph get a simple graph and then alter it from their if i want to go more advanced ? one clue it started at BABEL cause thats what everyone talks if you dont talk there langauge "COMPLETE BABEL" lol.
so yea i got so far with open iffice and libre but never got the data to show on the graph. watched a couple of vids but again BABEL. i need someon to come round show me how to do it just one simple line not multiple lines like ph and temp in same graph which i would like to be able to do have the PH, TEMP, ORP and PPM values on a graph to see the ph temp and orp changes and see if their is an pattern or corilation between them presept upon presept here and there a little, presept on presept.
for instance i talked about ph and how i might have corrected it when i should have left it as not the day after but the follwoing day it started rising and went alway to 6.5 ph . anyway i ph'd down twice with half mill each time and it only came down to the 6.3 to 6.4 ph anyway i have left it since then for about a day and half to two days "ish" since i last ph'd down and it is now this morning at ph of 6.17, so its a good job i did not ph down yesterday as it now would have been 0.5 to 1.0 lower than it is now so could have possably ended up at 5.1 this morning if i had ph'd down yesterday. i am now leaning between and automatic ph doser and a manual ph doser the automatic can do up and down as it has two dosers but is not wifi its propgrammed from its on controller manually. but it may correct it when it does not need correcting to keep the programmed ph levels , if i get the manual doser it only does up or down so i would need two of them but there 1/3 of the price of the double doser . but i will be able to dose with my phone cause it connects to wifi or bluetooth , so i am leaning for two of the bluetooth wifi ph dosers but they dont monitor the ph either they just dose the ph up or ph down controlled from my phone. buti have my wifi water quality meter i can connect to to see my ph levels and dose as needed which i am thinking is the best route . all this is cause of lkights off i have to decide to ph it during lights on soon i wont have to i can ph when i want which makes it easier to ph too much but also makes it easier for me to wait it out and see if the plant corrects itself , as one end it absorbs more of one then the other and the lower end of the scale is the same it absorbs more of one than the other so if a plant wants more of something it can try to gently ph'ing its surrounding soil to give it the nutrients it wants within reason it can vairy iots ph around the root zone just as it passes suger down it also could send other chemicals it produces to alter its root environment.
so its all a data learning curve and as one person said its a hydroponics water management simulator game lol.
but i have read doing what i have done using a bio filter is what i sbest for hydroponics even to the point of not needing airstones of you curculate the water enough and it becming like a balanced fish tank once all the bacteria have setled in the bioreactor ( fish tankl canister filter ) some use bucket filters justa bucket with filter media including lava rock and such and run that recurculting the water in the reservoir . i have my filter inline with the pump but can change it to either or iether ( yes i put either or iether to change the ways its pronounced . to be able to diferentiate between it looking stupid and just saying either or either technicaly chatgpt says it should be eether or eyther and i agree that would be better for us disloctics ( meaning dislogics) to work out lol .
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i think the doser option is the best and maybe get another water quality meter as mack up so io have two devices monitoring the water quality incase one goes wrong i have two sets of readings to go off .
may try get some pics of the water quality meter and the little bit of foam i have used, so they can float on the top of the water and go up and down with the water level .
i think those little bluetooth wifi single dosers are perfect for anyone wanting a grow you can go away and not worry about having to dose nutrients or ph the water while your on holiday , using you phone you could be in another country and still be able to monitor and dose your hudroponics system , as that is what makes it hard for me to go on holiday more than it already is cause i have to refill with water every three days in flower , if with my new system i get a water barrel say 100l i could connect that upp as a reserve tank already got the nutrients in it as its going to be all used in just over a week plus it will be recurculated with the main water through a float valve and pump in the man res. meaning my current 90l system wioll become witht he new system and back up water barrel its gona be more like 190litre system larger amounts of water do mean more doasge to get right but a bigger buffer so the ph does not fluictaute as much with the same amount of plants as the extra water acts as the ph buffer. meaning happier plants and more organic than not organic
we definitely need to slow down when typing. Your typing is similar to mine, so I bet we both have furious fingers and rapid thoughts lol Wats the average root time for your water clone setup ? With soil clones I can get roots reliably at 2 wks to 3 wks or even faster if genetics are hungry. From my water clone experiment I had small roots starting or at 1/8 inch long with no airstones at 2 wks( I had to cull many clones because of the herm catastrophe lol) but i probably could of given these specific water clones first dirt at 3 wks most likely. I believe if I had airstones and a better float device that provided more darkness I could get them wiggling dirt ticklers at 2 weeks maybe earlier. I really think w this water clone method I could be giving first dirt at 2 wks 2.5 latest!! It's faster and much less involved than soil cloning. Oh the peat cups are 100% biodegradable,they only hold up for about a month then they fall to pieces,once the peat is fully saturated it becomes very weak. I usually peel away peat cups leaving only the bottom and plant that way or I peel peat cups away up to soil top then wet and bury that way, this method minimizes transplant stress on clones and it provides a layer of moisture to assist with the rooting process, Either way works great. Once buried n wet you won't be able to tell the difference between soil n peat. So no if done properly it won't inhibit root expansion. I do use a heater to keep temps at night time lol look see
plus other things you can check like check my radiator temps , my cold kitchen floor temps. and my outside and inside wall temps soo if i can make my house warmer in winter and cooler in summer lol.
to all!
