Wow....quit getting alerts for this thread......whew...now I'm caught up... Nice pollen Van!!!
Stanks Go Perpetual In 2018!
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- #1,262
Oh thats cool...what strains are you going to make seeds of?
Yeah her Harlequin is producing a massive amount of pollen! Gonna be fun playing around with some CBD strains.
Not that I am the auto professor here, but If I am right they do fine under 12/12 once they reach flower.
It Will be interesting to see
I hope so....she is getting huge. I didn't have much hope for her 20+ days ago, but I have kind of started to think she might be a decent yielder. She will set my 'standard' for any future autos that I might grow.
Well I have the Acapulco gold Thats a week old so If I might get lucky.... She should flower about 12 weeks so I think that might work. And If not I have the auto’s or I just collect the pollen... the first tought was Two atf’s but I guess the universe wont agree to that lol.
Today I popped that fresh ATF seed in the water along with a cbd OG kush #01. That might be a great experiment to.
So many options... Lets start with finding a male or use CS on them.
If you wanted to experiment a little you can try taking one of the nicer branches off a male and putting it into a glass of water with some light nutrients in it. Get rid of the rest of the plant (male) so he doesn't make unwanted babies. Keep the branch in the glass well away from the girls. The pollen sacks tend to open during the night and the pollen falls out in the morning. So if you had a female you wanted to pollinate take her and the branch into another room or closet or whatever as long as it's away from your flowering area. Take and set your girl on the floor, hold the branch above the female and very lightly tap on the branch. I use a pencil and tap very lightly. Move over the different buds you want to pollinate. Put the boy back in his glass if done for the day. Keep the girl away from the flowering tent for about 36 hours at which time you take a spray bottle set to mist and lightly wet the girl down. This will render any loose pollen useless. The pollen that did make it to a pistil is already absorbed and safe from the mist. You can now put her back with the other girls.
The very best way to breed is to dedicate an entire grow to just making seeds. Sit down and plan it out. And the #1 rule I go by is only one male. If you have say 6 females growing and are all flowering and you have a high quality male who will start producing pollen then put them all in the tent together, add a couple fans, and in no time at all you'll be harvesting thousands of seeds. More then you'll ever possibly grow in three lifetimes. If you have just one male there is no chance at all that "the other" male sent some pollen towards the flowering tent. I just like knowing that if I see a seed I am pretty comfortable saying it's a cross between that male and this female.
Maybe give a try with the feminizing spray and make yourself some female seeds. I just started growing last spring and my first attempt with the spray was on a Train Wreck auto flowering plant. I got lucky and made female pollen and pollinated that plant and got nearly 225 seeds. I put about 50 away for a rainy day and have grown some out. And I've traded a lot of them. One of our sponsors Nuke Heads now carries a feminizing spray on their web site and I believe it's on sale right now.
Wow I’m all caught up again, for now! Lol!
Ok I love the white widow! Yay Newty’s new fav
sorry harlequin
That blue dream is a dream for sure
Wow!! That male plant in bloom!! Thanks for sharing, I showed that pic to my NOW 6 flowering girls and they swoll at least 2 inches I need to hang that full length in my tent to tantalize my gals, moving forward lol
Ding ding...I’ll sell poster sized pictures of male cannabis plants in heat
I’ll let mr Newty know we can quit our jobs on Tuesday! Lol
Ok I love the white widow! Yay Newty’s new fav
sorry harlequin That blue dream is a dream for sure
Wow!! That male plant in bloom!! Thanks for sharing, I showed that pic to my NOW 6 flowering girls and they swoll at least 2 inches
I need to hang that full length in my tent to tantalize my gals, moving forward lol Ding ding...I’ll sell poster sized pictures of male cannabis plants in heat
I’ll let mr Newty know we can quit our jobs on Tuesday! Lol
Killerbudz
Well-Known Member
Ok I know I'm suuuuper late to the party, but with the new site I only get alerts for recently viewed post ok!Most of the adult worms die below 30F, but there are still thousands of eggs throughout that go dormant....these hatch into worms above 50F. At a certain point the media will become fully "processed" meaning it is fully worm shit and thus toxic to worms. At this point they die and you are left with the finished product...thus I usually don't have many when potting, though when I do I leave them in for the ride....
My suggestion for assured success: old soil, water, veggie scraps, coffee grounds, eggs shells. Beyond this is style points (we throw in our dryer lint!), but I suggest you have 75%+ of the inputs in place from the beginning. It will help breakdown be more consistent...you can always throw in cannabis leaves as you get them.
Final note: more surface area = quicker breakdown, thus veggie peelings versus a bundle of whole carrots, etc. Some people go overboard and blend or food process, but that is unnecessary. Potato/carrot/cucumber peelings are our go to....
So you're ready for some?
Would you run into any issues or deficiencies using regular dirt or regular bag soil? My dirt is riddled with earthworms but don't wanna wait a full run to use my old soil...
Ok back to reading the other pages! Great info in this journal guys
That is the issue I have. No real place away from the grow with light. i do have two flower tents. Maybe I will just have to stick a male and there and see what I can make happen. I would like to reverse my Slurricane. Pollinate another clone of it and make more seed stock of that and let it hit my 9# Hammer and a couple of other things.
Nice! Thanks for posting that.
Conradino23
Well-Known Member
This journal really runs. I have a problem catching up 
Gypsum doesn't contain calcium. Maybe you dosed too much of it and this is a source of your problems. Magnesium in gypsum is excessive and when it becomes soluble in soil it might block the absorption of calcium.
The relation between ca and mg in soil is very important and it quickly gets out of hand if ratio of these two is whacked. Calcium improves the structure if it dominates the magnesium, but when there's too much magnesium it locks calcium out and the soil becomes hard.
It's difficult to fix, cause calcium is very little mobile in soil and most of the sources are carbon-based like calcium carbonate, which takes time to be adsorbed by the soil particles.
That's why those of us who switched to High Brix method cook the soil for at least 6 weeks after calcium has been added. If the soil has wrong Ca:Mg ratio it's almost impossible to fix it in the middle of the grow
Gypsum doesn't contain calcium. Maybe you dosed too much of it and this is a source of your problems. Magnesium in gypsum is excessive and when it becomes soluble in soil it might block the absorption of calcium.
The relation between ca and mg in soil is very important and it quickly gets out of hand if ratio of these two is whacked. Calcium improves the structure if it dominates the magnesium, but when there's too much magnesium it locks calcium out and the soil becomes hard.
It's difficult to fix, cause calcium is very little mobile in soil and most of the sources are carbon-based like calcium carbonate, which takes time to be adsorbed by the soil particles.
That's why those of us who switched to High Brix method cook the soil for at least 6 weeks after calcium has been added. If the soil has wrong Ca:Mg ratio it's almost impossible to fix it in the middle of the grow
Yeah, @Van Stank @Pennywise @Grandpa Tokin @TheMadDabber @InTheShed
They all have threads that are like trying to read the side of a high-speed train. You have to wait until it comes to a complete stop. I haven't found that schedule yet.
I try to keep up, but I have to sleep sometime.
They all have threads that are like trying to read the side of a high-speed train. You have to wait until it comes to a complete stop. I haven't found that schedule yet.
I try to keep up, but I have to sleep sometime.
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- #1,272
Hey Conradino, wondering where you got your info on Gypsum because I am thinking you might have it mixed up. Gypsum is a form of calcium sulfate dihydrate and essentially just Calcium, Sulfur and water at the molecular level. It doesn't affect the pH at all.This journal really runs. I have a problem catching up
Gypsum doesn't contain calcium. Maybe you dosed too much of it and this is a source of your problems. Magnesium in gypsum is excessive and when it becomes soluble in soil it might block the absorption of calcium.
The relation between ca and mg in soil is very important and it quickly gets out of hand if ratio of these two is whacked. Calcium improves the structure if it dominates the magnesium, but when there's too much magnesium it locks calcium out and the soil becomes hard.
It's difficult to fix, cause calcium is very little mobile in soil and most of the sources are carbon-based like calcium carbonate, which takes time to be adsorbed by the soil particles.
That's why those of us who switched to High Brix method cook the soil for at least 6 weeks after calcium has been added. If the soil has wrong Ca:Mg ratio it's almost impossible to fix it in the middle of the grow
When I spoke of amending my soil with it, I was referring to buckets of the soil sitting around unused. Upon noticing the calcium deficiencies, I busted open my unused soil and I re-amended it with additional minerals and the gypsum, mixed it all up really well, made sure the soil was slightly damp and I covered the soil up to 'cook' and breakdown before I used it.
As for amending anything that was already growing.....no I didn't do that. For those, I just started treating with a little Cal Mag and a little Silica supplement in with my ACT and it got everyone looking much healthier.
I generally try to keep my Cal:Mag ratios at about 7:1. I think I had my ratios good....I just don't think I had enough Calcium in the soil. The Northern Lights and White Widow will be test plants with the re-amended soils. The soil the Northern Lights was transferred into had the Gypsum and minerals added to the soil about a month before I put her in it. Not as long as I would have liked...but its been breaking down for an additional 2 weeks with the plant in it. If I still see any of the spots I saw on the other plants, then I know I still have a calcium issue or I have something else that is the issue.
Here is a link of Gypsum if you want to read the breakdown of gypsum
Gypsum
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- #1,273
Hey Killer, can you clarify this question please? Are you saying would you run into any deficiencies growing with just using regular soil or bagged soil......or do you mean would you have issues with vermicomposting if you used those as your base for vermicomposting? Two majorly different questions and I just want to clarify an answer for you brother.Ok I know I'm suuuuper late to the party, but with the new site I only get alerts for recently viewed post ok!
Would you run into any issues or deficiencies using regular dirt or regular bag soil? My dirt is riddled with earthworms but don't wanna wait a full run to use my old soil...
Ok back to reading the other pages! Great info in this journal guys
Killerbudz
Well-Known Member
I meant would you run into any issues using those as a base for your vermicompost. Didn't know if the base mattered at all and seen the term "used soil" mentioned as the base. Sorry was a bit late when I asked
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- #1,275
No I think you could use anything to start it really. I plan on using recycled soil from a previous grow along with some dirt from outdoor garden as the base. I also have an inert bag of medium that the dude from the grow store gave me.....I will give it a go as well.
The worms will make the soil nutritious if you supply them with all the stuff they need to eat. Doesn't really matter what the soil was like before you put them in there.
Keep in mind you need amend for specific cannabis needs afterwards but its not nearly as much when you start off with a vermicomposted base.
The worms will make the soil nutritious if you supply them with all the stuff they need to eat. Doesn't really matter what the soil was like before you put them in there.
Keep in mind you need amend for specific cannabis needs afterwards but its not nearly as much when you start off with a vermicomposted base.
Killerbudz
Well-Known Member
What do you mean you need to amend for specific cannabis needs afterwards? Haven't done my full research yet.
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- #1,277
Well now you are opening a whole new can of worms with that! Talk to 100 people that grow in their own soil and you will likely get close to 100 different answers.
You could go the simple way of looking up the Clackamas Coots recipe and buy their mineral packs and amendment packs. Its probably the easiest route to making great soil. Or you can do what I did and start looking at buying the amendments as single items and experiment with your mixes based on your growing conditions.
KIS organics is another one that is worth looking into.....but all those are made based on base soil mixes of generally even ratios of Peat Moss, Aeration, and Compost/EWC and not necessarily using vermicomposted soil as the base.
I am pretty sure that the vermi composted soil will have a lot more nutrients in it than a base 1/3 mix of Compost, peat and aeration.....so you would probably need less amendments in the vermicomposted soil than non-vermicomposted soil.
You could go the simple way of looking up the Clackamas Coots recipe and buy their mineral packs and amendment packs. Its probably the easiest route to making great soil. Or you can do what I did and start looking at buying the amendments as single items and experiment with your mixes based on your growing conditions.
KIS organics is another one that is worth looking into.....but all those are made based on base soil mixes of generally even ratios of Peat Moss, Aeration, and Compost/EWC and not necessarily using vermicomposted soil as the base.
I am pretty sure that the vermi composted soil will have a lot more nutrients in it than a base 1/3 mix of Compost, peat and aeration.....so you would probably need less amendments in the vermicomposted soil than non-vermicomposted soil.
Killerbudz
Well-Known Member
That's what I thought you meant but wanted to make sure! Rolling with docs kit right now got soil cooking. Was planning on using the vermicompost as a top dressing if needed. Thanks for the help brotha, switching from Coco this is a different rodeo lol.
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- #1,279
Yeah you can't go wrong with Docs Kit either. If I wasn't a tinkerer with a lot of time, I might have gone that route but I wouldn't be getting my hands as dirty as I like. Once I get my stuff to where I want it....I might take a swing at trying Docs Kit and a DWC for a little comparison. I doubt that I will ever become stagnant in my growing style
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- #1,280
Jack Herer Auto Day 44 Update
Been a few days since I have given any attention to my auto girl. She is chugging along nicely. She got about a gallon of ACT this morning with a little bit of Cal Mag (3 ml) and a little bit of Silica (3 ml). I went lower on those amounts with her as she hasn't shown any signs of calcium issues but I also don't want her to show me any.
I will keep the amounts about half of what the other strains are getting.....at least until she shows me she needs more. I might up her Silica next feeding. She has also really picked up her 'drinking rate'. Gone are the days of a week between waterings. She is hitting about 4-5 days before she is getting thirsty again.
Not really doing anything with her at this point in regards to training other than plucking 2-3 fan leaves per day that are covering any potential bud sites. She is really thickening up under the canopy. A stout girl she is becoming!
We did see sure signs of hairs on her today so I am going to say she is without a doubt beginning to flower.
Been a few days since I have given any attention to my auto girl. She is chugging along nicely. She got about a gallon of ACT this morning with a little bit of Cal Mag (3 ml) and a little bit of Silica (3 ml). I went lower on those amounts with her as she hasn't shown any signs of calcium issues but I also don't want her to show me any.
I will keep the amounts about half of what the other strains are getting.....at least until she shows me she needs more. I might up her Silica next feeding. She has also really picked up her 'drinking rate'. Gone are the days of a week between waterings. She is hitting about 4-5 days before she is getting thirsty again.
Not really doing anything with her at this point in regards to training other than plucking 2-3 fan leaves per day that are covering any potential bud sites. She is really thickening up under the canopy. A stout girl she is becoming!
We did see sure signs of hairs on her today so I am going to say she is without a doubt beginning to flower.
