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Bottom watering is used in an ebb and flow style system - I wonder if those systems also known for low yield?
I would be curious to know the media and nutrients used in the autopot grows that produced low yields. I think some side-by-side grows of these techniques are needed to understand the truth here. I'm not really set up for that experiment right now - soon though. Great information and questions, SS, keep them coming. I'm totally open to changing the way I do things based on what we learn.
ur a savage slim. nice setup
Just caught up and find your op. very impressive. I still a bit of a newb but love to try new stuff no matter what i do. so, I was a little disappointed when you added the led lights because I am also using CMH lights, but in hoods without glass, hopefully to improve uvb. And I find that they are working great for veg but not sure how they will perform on flowering. So, selfish me, I was hoping I would get to see you flower with CMH. Alas, I understand the desire to add more light
good point
I doubt I can find the article again. It was something I came across a while back and I didn't bookmark it.
I think between those of us who are or are going to be experimenting with passive hydro, different nutes, and different watering methods, we should come up with some winning combinations.
I want simple automation
p.s. nice job hanging the LED panel
been thinking about it, and maybe the ebb and flow analogy as far as bottom watering isn't analogous
with passive bottom watering, the water just wicks up into the medium, but with ebb and flow, the bucket fills up, a water table is created, and then when the pump stops, the water table recedes and draws air in through the medium.
also, with passive bottom watering the medium never gets flushed, so how do you prevent salt build-up?
I like the slimm bucket option, so just playing devil's advocate
Unless I have mis-calculated that top bulb is soon going to be lighting the top half of the plants. It is providing a fair amount of light right now for the upper parts of the canopy.
STG looks promising as a possible perlite replacement. My concerns are cost and compaction. I'm going to order a bag on sale.
Good points SS. Whether passive watering behaves like ebb and flow or not may depend on how you bottom water. When I water I water hard enough that the water table becomes perched in the bucket (it rises higher than it will be when it drains the excess). Once the flow stops, the media will drain, lowering the water table and pulling fresh air into the root zone. This quick increase in the height of the water table and subsequent quick drop, work similarly to the ebb and flow model. However that is not all there is to the dynamic. Remember my media is 70/30 perlite/coco and the roots in the upper regions of the pot have been trained as air roots. So these roots are bathed in air and in contact with moist, good wicking media. This means that as the plant drinks it also breathes. Fresh oxygen is being provided to the roots all the time. Solution is constantly wicked up and nutrients are pulled out by the air roots.
Obviously there are more effective growing methods. Aeroponics comes to mind. Look at the root development in an aeroponic application. Lots and lots of air roots. What this tells us is that air roots like consistency. We can also posit that plants grow better when they have more air roots. The ideal root environment is a bath of oxygen and nutrient rich fog. I think the media I am using attempts to approximates this model, in a simple fashion, by having both air and nutrient loaded water available to the air roots at all times.
Here is my weak understanding of the subject put into a couple sentences. There are two ways to deal with salt buildup with hydroponic nutrients. One is to flush, the other is to not have any in the first place. By keeping the nutrients in a dilute enough solution they will remain ionic and can be consumed by the plant. As the concentration increases the cations will combine to form salts. The more you let your media dry out between feedings, the more salts that will be present as new solution is placed into the bucket. This more dilute solution will allow some of the salts to become ionic again making the solution too hot. To fix this, you have to flush.
No worries, you won't hurt my feelings if you find holes in my experiments - I appreciate your candid comments.
I've seen STG in action. You don't want this stuff....no good at all. It would provide even less support than perlite and it has really bizarre water retention properties, not to mention a penchant for algae.
Speaking of cost, cheap lava rock works well and provides really good support. Some chunks can be too large and need to be broken up, but the root balls I used to get with it were amazing.
How much flushing do you do? Have you ever gone an entire cycle without?
I have heard pumice works really well and lasts forever. Are you talking about pumice or another kind of lava rock?
No flush so far on this grow and no plans to except for the final flush during ripening.