SIP Club - Getting Hydro/Coco Results In A Soil Based Medium

[cbdhemp808]

Just posted an update on my thread re: gearing up for a SIP comparison grow...

Quest for mold-resistant strains, Hawaii outdoor greenhouse grow

Personally, if I was only looking to get 8 oz. I'd start my plant in a 1 gal pot. Veg about 4 weeks & up pot to a 5 gallon SIP. Give it about 3 days to recover from the up pot & flip to 12/12. No need to veg any longer to get 8 oz. using a SIP. Now that I grow in SIP's I love to grow big ass...

www.420magazine.com

 

[cbdhemp808]

Just did a test, here...

Quest for mold-resistant strains, Hawaii outdoor greenhouse grow

Personally, if I was only looking to get 8 oz. I'd start my plant in a 1 gal pot. Veg about 4 weeks & up pot to a 5 gallon SIP. Give it about 3 days to recover from the up pot & flip to 12/12. No need to veg any longer to get 8 oz. using a SIP. Now that I grow in SIP's I love to grow big ass...

www.420magazine.com

 

[Azimuth]

So my question is, she could either stay where she is for a while or she could go to her final 10 gal SIP, correct?

The tops typically match the roots so the typical advice is when the leaves reach the pot edges, the roots have as well and it's time to uppot.

Also, do I need to keep trimming the leaves?

No. I assume you did that initially to clone it to reduce water loss? Some growers take whole leaves as part of a defoliation routine, but when they're small they need all the solar panels they can grow.

 

[Thirvnrob]

I was under the impression that cutting the leaves gave the roots more time & energy to develop…

 

[Gee64]

I was under the impression that cutting the leaves gave the roots more time & energy to develop…

Cutting the leaves lowers photosynthesis.

Photosynthesis requires nutrients, and nutrients must come from the soil which requires roots, of which a cutting has none, so trimming leaves slows veg growth while the cutting sprouts roots.

Otherwise, growing roots and leaves simultaneously will deplete the clone and leaves wither and drop. Once it is rooted you want full leaves to photosynthesize more.

If you watch closely you will notice that most clones will increase leaf size after rooting for the 1st 3 or 4 sets of new leaves, each a bit bigger than the last, until the plant grows full sized ones.

That is the plant balancing leaf growth to rootball size, so to answer your question, no, don't trim the leaves after rooting, the plant will take it from here and adjust it's own leaf sizes.

 

[Gee64]

Aero-cloning doesn't require leaf trimming or a hardening period so if you can go that route your clones will grow much quicker.

I currently have plants 30"-35" tall that were bare root clones in the aero cloner 18 days ago.

These are in cloth pots but it works just as well in a sip or swick, with no stall period.

Here are the 2 smallest ones. 18 days ago they were 6" and 3 3/4" respectively, and still in the cloner.

The biggest cutting at 8 3/4" is now 35" tall but it's in the back of the tent and hard to get a picture of. The 2 smaller ones here will go to the worm farm but the bigger one will get topped into a quad now that it has a rootball, and become a Mother.

If you chase brix, these are already 13-15 brix.

5 weeks ago exactly I cut these from the mother plant. In a SIP these would be even bigger. No doming or misting or hardening, all at 35% RH which is what life in the desert gives you. Pretty easy stuff.

This is in LOS. No synthetics. Dusting the bare roots with myco allows the clone to link to the soil biome instantly. They start growing 24 hours after potting.

I'm sure synthetics would be no different.

If you really want hydro results you should consider starting this way instead of soil cloning, uppotting, and a stall period, all complicated by misting, doming, and a hardening off process.

As I mentioned awhile back, the process is in a link in my signature. It makes cloning as easy as sipping makes growing. These were all rooted with a Kloneking 36.

If you go Azi's route and clone bare root clones in perlite and water, you can still use the planting technique in the link.

 

[Gee64]

For any of you that already use an aero-cloner, or are going to try it, here's a freebee that makes a huge difference.

When you take the clone out of the cloner for planting, the line where the clone goes into the puck on the top side of the puck should be your soil line.

The cutting needs to determine a crown before it can start rooting, and does that with darkness. It assumes anything in the dark is underground.

Messing with a plant's crown line at any stage other than young seedling stage will add a stall period where it will stop rooting until a new crown is established.

If it stops rooting but is still forced to grow because it's under a light, it can't intake nutes to keep up with growth and it will cannibalize it's own leaves for the nutes, so if your clones start out great but quickly go south after planting and it takes a month or so to stop the leaf drop and turn them around, chances are you buried them too deep.

 

[Thirvnrob]

The tops typically match the roots so the typical advice is when the leaves reach the pot edges, the roots have as well and it's time to uppot.


No. I assume you did that initially to clone it to reduce water loss? Some growers take whole leaves as part of a defoliation routine, but when they're small they need all the solar panels they can grow.

I’m not sure we’re talking about the same thing. The plant in question is a clone - it had no roots when I trimmed the leaves (cut them in half). It obviously has rooted now but only the top leaves are new growth, so the roots should be matching their growth, correct? I’m not talking about defoliating at all.

 

[Thirvnrob]

Cutting the leaves lowers photosynthesis.

Photosynthesis requires nutrients, and nutrients must come from the soil which requires roots, of which a cutting has none, so trimming leaves slows veg growth while the cutting sprouts roots.

Otherwise, growing roots and leaves simultaneously will deplete the clone and leaves wither and drop. Once it is rooted you want full leaves to photosynthesize more.

If you watch closely you will notice that most clones will increase leaf size after rooting for the 1st 3 or 4 sets of new leaves, each a bit bigger than the last, until the plant grows full sized ones.

That is the plant balancing leaf growth to rootball size, so to answer your question, no, don't trim the leaves after rooting, the plant will take it from here and adjust it's own leaf sizes.

I couldn’t have said it better myself. That’s why I didn’t try…

 

[Fudo Myoo]

Strawberry Cough day 17 of flower

 

[Ke0ncp]

Time for an update over here on my PGC SIPs.

They are chugging along and done with the stretch!

Day 15 of flower:

 

[Bill284]

Time for an update over here on my PGC SIPs.

They are chugging along and done with the stretch!

Day 15 of flower:

Chugging alone is putting it mildly
Just Beautiful.



Stay safe
Bill284

 

[KeithLemon]

Very nice flowers look good.

 

[Ke0ncp]

Chugging alone is putting it mildly
Just Beautiful.



Stay safe
Bill284

Thanks Bill! They have turned out quite nicely after a big struggle in mid veg!

 

[013]

Anyone here ever do both SIP and swick to compare? I went the swick route as I like the fabric pots but sometimes keeping up with roots invading the wicks it can be a PITA.

I do like the results though.

Hey Tim,

I never ran head to head comparison on SIP versus swick but I’ve migrated from 1 SIP over to multiple swicks…

Cloth pots, no actual wick is involved, the soil with 40 extra aeration is the wick. Nothing to cut or build, slam a grow bag onto larger reservoir and call it a day

 

[StoneOtter]

Sweet field of greens! PGC is awesome smoke! You'll be glad you have a bushel of it!

 

[013]

the soil with 40 extra aeration is the wick.

Whoops meant to say… the soil with 40% extra aeration is the wick

 

[Chuckeye]

And here we go again after a 3 month plus layoff but with a New Light

Phlizon FD6000 640w eight bar light !

All five available strains have tails after 39 hours in water and have been moved to solo cups

Strains are >

Hawaiian Snow was missing from my order but a 3 pk shipped today...

Thinking about growing one in a 2 1/2 gallon fabric bag sitting on perlite, not quite a Swick ?

Cheers, eh ?

 

[Azimuth]

Thinking about growing one in a 2 1/2 gallon fabric bag sitting on perlite, not quite a Swick ?

Yes, a swick indeed.

 

[Stonecrusher]

Hi Gee,
You mentioned a few comments ago about growing at 35% RH. I live in a desert-ish place too and have tried to keep humidity up in the tent, but it tops out at about 50% unless ambient air is higher.
My outdoor plants dont give a damn about humidity. They are thriving in their big soil pots. So it makes me wonder about how much i need to use a dome and then a humidifier.
Do you just use ambient RH indoors? I would if I thought I could get away with it.