SIP Club - Getting Hydro/Coco Results In A Soil Based Medium
- Thread starter Azimuth
- Start date
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
They LOVE it! Look at'm go. Seriously, those buds are on a mission. This should be fun! Yup, good call on the lights, I shoulda piped up. But hey, we got her done as a team, which is best where possible, I say.
Keep it coming girls and boys, its working... we're making progress...
Keep it coming girls and boys, its working... we're making progress...
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
Thanks Az. "Dust", huh? Uhm, you know that, in sales, its about the sizzle and not the steak, right? We need a new name, Az, not sure I can live with - "Dust". ;>}
Both serious and yankin' your chain. lol.
I will not be tasting much of it. My esophagus is virtually sealed by a tumour. I have a tube straight into my small intestine (upper of the two, FYI) where I inject meds and pump 'food'. I haven't chewed anything since early May, and though I fight all day with the cancer to keep a tiny opening, it requires constant warm, sweet, creamy tea sipping all day long - so could be worse! I'll try to get some RSO in there orally again, which is obviously always my preference, but I did figure out a way to get it into my "J-tube", and it still hits pretty hard if I do it right.
Actually, I'm burying the lead here... I want to be clear and well-understood that I am taking cannabinoids purely for the relief of symptoms. I am in no way qualified to comment on the effectiveness of any substance against cancer itself, and I happen to be currently experiencing it hands-on. Hopefully I'll survive this, how much is attributed to canna in the end will be small, but very important, it keeps my spirit warm, my mind calm, it gives me the impetus, the ability just to sip that tea all day, to do exercises I otherwise would be too ill to complete or even entertain. I put symptom relief from RSO, of all my cancer-related ills, at a full 50% across the board. Amazing, right? So that puts me at a 5/10 instead of a 10/10 on pain and nausea... and let me tell you, my '10s', would incinerate normies in seconds. So it's powerful shit, mate, powerful shit.
I would ask anyone who thinks they know better about cancer curing with cannabis to instead consider how their words can be heard by others, others who are in a very dark, desperate place. It is unethical to make unqualified statements about cancer curing or even tumour size fluctuations, in these places. I know that's a big statement, but it's a true one. Yes, there's data out there... because it's a busy world, friend, and there's always going to be data pointing every-which-way... and that's exactly why it is important to restrict unqualified statements to symptomatology only.
Thanks all.
Tales of the Organic SIPs
The big one, meh wind say some, Fusarium Wilt say me and others. We go again. Moved the baby Sweet Seeds Red Mimosa XL Auto in the same medium out there. Dunno think she’s on about Day #60/80
. Maybe I’ll get a couple of vape bowls off her 
But yeah a bit of Cal-Mag deficiency (I always say that!) Or am I missing something else?
The big one, meh wind say some, Fusarium Wilt say me and others. We go again. Moved the baby Sweet Seeds Red Mimosa XL Auto in the same medium out there. Dunno think she’s on about Day #60/80
. Maybe I’ll get a couple of vape bowls off her But yeah a bit of Cal-Mag deficiency (I always say that!) Or am I missing something else?
- Thread starter
- #3,186
I'm not sure. Cal/Mag deficiency doesn't usually wrap itself around a stem like that with the two distinct blobs and ventilation hole. Maybe more like boron excess?
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
It's a Tumor!
Arnie: Ït's not a toomah!
Arnie: Ït's not a toomah!
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I have never tried fresh plants, but many press fresh for rosin, so it must have value. The trick is to freeze the material AND the alcohol. Everclear won't freeze, but it will get well below the freezing point. I find -18C or colder is perfect. My freezer is -16C. The reason for the freeze is to hold all the water soluables frozen in the plant (chlorophyl mostly) and only wash out the trichs. That makes for the purest oil.
However, some RSO recipes are for FECO, which is Full Extract Cannabis Oil, and the point with it is to pull out everything the plant has, so no freezing involved. FECO is usually (from my limited reading), the medicinal route. So the freezing depends on what you want, trichs, or everything?
smokesbetter
Well-Known Member
Hey Nick is that a praying Mantis cocoon on your plant , when I was growing we got them a lot !
Fenderbender
Well-Known Member
One of my favourite smokes is charas the resin hand rolled off live plants a bit before harvest, it does cure as well but the flavour profile is so floral and intense.
TequilaSIPr
Well-Known Member
A tale of two cities! Im gonna give her another 360 spin so the 400w side can catch up! The 400w nodes are tighter but the 1200w has the trichs the better growth and the purple color seems totally on that side 
Not sure! I’ve actually left it there. This plant is a bit of an experiment, doesn’t look like anything is harming the plant so I’ll just let it hang out - we do get mantis’s here. Up in the doorframe top right the picture is some other insect home my wife promises isn’t gonna bite or sting. She doesn’t know the English name though.
TequilaSIPr
Well-Known Member
Looked like the makings of a bee or hornets nestNot sure! I’ve actually left it there. This plant is a bit of an experiment, doesn’t look like anything is harming the plant so I’ll just let it hang out - we do get mantis’s here. Up in the doorframe top right the picture is some other insect home my wife promises isn’t gonna bite or sting. She doesn’t know the English name though.
Looks similar but def its not that, some husband and wife mating pair of insects apparently. I’ll ask her again to find me a picture, we live in the tropics so get some big stuff insect wise. You marry a girl grew up in the jungle you generally let them handle the creepy crawlies!
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
thats so awesome. Drink deep, Nick.
- Thread starter
- #3,196
** Cloning with Azi **
For anyone new at cloning or looking for a simple, effective, and SIP friendly approach I thought I'd detail my process.
I used to be horrible at rooting cuttings, and in fact successfully participated in the International Worst Cloner Of The Year competitions held each year around the world. I never did medal in them as I was always able to get a small percentage to root which kept the lights on, but man did I suck. And the few clones I did get to root took a long time and looked pretty sickly by the time they did.
I tried everything you could imagine including soil, coco, glasses of water, bubble mist cloner contraptions of three different types, DWC, domes, rooting hormones, you name it. Nothing worked very well for me which I attribute to my environment, but I kept at it. I even started a cloning thread recently (which you can read through here ) but for those of you that like to jump straight to the last chapter of the book I'll detail my process below.
My criteria was that I wanted something simple, highly successful, consistent and involved no judgement, no noise, no hardening off, no domes, no pumps, no rooting hormone, no complicated builds, etc and this approach checks all of those boxes.
The Build
Find a container that won't hold water. A regular small nursery pot would work fine but I use a Solo cup with a small hole made with a soldering iron or small drill bit. If you're using cups you can cut a slit with scissors on the side of the cup at the very bottom corner. I make a corresponding hole at the top of the cup so I can easily see where the bottom hole is. I use a clear Solo inside of an opaque one.
Congratulations, your build is finished.
The Medium
Fill the container with something coarse that breathes well; perlite, pumice, or coarse builder's sand.
The Process
I take cuttings from the ends of branches about 4-5"/10-12cm long, trimming away any branches below the top flush of leaves fairly close to the stem but leaving a little stub. The smaller the better as that's less wound for the plant to heal. If you do this step the day before you cut it while the cutting is still attached to the plant you'll get roots a day or two earlier. My theory on this is that the plant will send repair hormones to heal these cuts and these hormones are still present the next day when you actually cut the clone and that helps wth the rooting process. Plus, those wounds will have scabbed over and need less repair effort after the cutting is removed from the plant.
I place the clones in a cup of water immediately after cutting them from the plant and leave them there for 20-30 minutes to let them fully hydrate.
Then make a hole in the medium slightly larger than the stem width with a chopstick or other tool, stick your cutting and firm the medium around the cut by pressing down and around. I have small plants and therefore small cuttings but I can fit 5-10 in a standard Solo cup. Doesn't matter at all if the leaves touch or overlap. Mist the medium well until water drips out the drain hole.
Then mist the leaves twice a day, I do roughly 12 hours apart. When I spray, I place the cups in a large storage container stood on end which contains any overspray. After I'm done I tilt the container on one corner and drain the excess water into another cup for use on other plants. I use straight tap water, left in an open container for 24 hours to help off-gas any chlorine out of habit but really don't think that matters a bit.
I leave the cuttings off to the side, out of direct light and in fact I have a piece of cardboard on the side of the cuttings area to block any direct light. And I keep them in an environment with more than 12 hours of light since I don't want them trying to flower while they're rooting. I keep them in my veg room at 18/6.
I get roots in 7-10 days and usually let them stay in the cups for 3-4 weeks total before potting up but I have potted them at as little as 14 days. I just like a better developed rooting system before I do. I don't feed them or rewet the medium at all while still in the cups as drips from the twice daily misting of the leaves keeps the medium moist enough. Taking more cuttings than I plan to plant allows me to select the best of the best from the group and there are always one or two that are appreciably better than the others.
When my veg room top temps drop below mid-80*'sF/30*C I'll use a heat mat set to that range which helps rooting in winter.
This process is borrowed from the commercial "Rooted Cuttings Industry" where they root thousands of landscape plants in sand beds using intermittent mist and under shade cloth to protect from direct sunlight.
Rooting cuttings is really hard until it clicks, but once you find a process that works for you it becomes easy. And this is the one that clicked for me. And, because the cuttings are rooted in the same environment as your veg space, there is no hardening off required. They go directly into my organic soil SIP and don't miss a beat.
Good luck!
For anyone new at cloning or looking for a simple, effective, and SIP friendly approach I thought I'd detail my process.
I used to be horrible at rooting cuttings, and in fact successfully participated in the International Worst Cloner Of The Year competitions held each year around the world. I never did medal in them as I was always able to get a small percentage to root which kept the lights on, but man did I suck. And the few clones I did get to root took a long time and looked pretty sickly by the time they did.
I tried everything you could imagine including soil, coco, glasses of water, bubble mist cloner contraptions of three different types, DWC, domes, rooting hormones, you name it. Nothing worked very well for me which I attribute to my environment, but I kept at it. I even started a cloning thread recently (which you can read through here ) but for those of you that like to jump straight to the last chapter of the book I'll detail my process below.
My criteria was that I wanted something simple, highly successful, consistent and involved no judgement, no noise, no hardening off, no domes, no pumps, no rooting hormone, no complicated builds, etc and this approach checks all of those boxes.
The Build
Find a container that won't hold water. A regular small nursery pot would work fine but I use a Solo cup with a small hole made with a soldering iron or small drill bit. If you're using cups you can cut a slit with scissors on the side of the cup at the very bottom corner. I make a corresponding hole at the top of the cup so I can easily see where the bottom hole is. I use a clear Solo inside of an opaque one.
Congratulations, your build is finished.
The Medium
Fill the container with something coarse that breathes well; perlite, pumice, or coarse builder's sand.
The Process
I take cuttings from the ends of branches about 4-5"/10-12cm long, trimming away any branches below the top flush of leaves fairly close to the stem but leaving a little stub. The smaller the better as that's less wound for the plant to heal. If you do this step the day before you cut it while the cutting is still attached to the plant you'll get roots a day or two earlier. My theory on this is that the plant will send repair hormones to heal these cuts and these hormones are still present the next day when you actually cut the clone and that helps wth the rooting process. Plus, those wounds will have scabbed over and need less repair effort after the cutting is removed from the plant.
I place the clones in a cup of water immediately after cutting them from the plant and leave them there for 20-30 minutes to let them fully hydrate.
Then make a hole in the medium slightly larger than the stem width with a chopstick or other tool, stick your cutting and firm the medium around the cut by pressing down and around. I have small plants and therefore small cuttings but I can fit 5-10 in a standard Solo cup. Doesn't matter at all if the leaves touch or overlap. Mist the medium well until water drips out the drain hole.
Then mist the leaves twice a day, I do roughly 12 hours apart. When I spray, I place the cups in a large storage container stood on end which contains any overspray. After I'm done I tilt the container on one corner and drain the excess water into another cup for use on other plants. I use straight tap water, left in an open container for 24 hours to help off-gas any chlorine out of habit but really don't think that matters a bit.
I leave the cuttings off to the side, out of direct light and in fact I have a piece of cardboard on the side of the cuttings area to block any direct light. And I keep them in an environment with more than 12 hours of light since I don't want them trying to flower while they're rooting. I keep them in my veg room at 18/6.
I get roots in 7-10 days and usually let them stay in the cups for 3-4 weeks total before potting up but I have potted them at as little as 14 days. I just like a better developed rooting system before I do. I don't feed them or rewet the medium at all while still in the cups as drips from the twice daily misting of the leaves keeps the medium moist enough. Taking more cuttings than I plan to plant allows me to select the best of the best from the group and there are always one or two that are appreciably better than the others.
When my veg room top temps drop below mid-80*'sF/30*C I'll use a heat mat set to that range which helps rooting in winter.
This process is borrowed from the commercial "Rooted Cuttings Industry" where they root thousands of landscape plants in sand beds using intermittent mist and under shade cloth to protect from direct sunlight.
Rooting cuttings is really hard until it clicks, but once you find a process that works for you it becomes easy. And this is the one that clicked for me. And, because the cuttings are rooted in the same environment as your veg space, there is no hardening off required. They go directly into my organic soil SIP and don't miss a beat.
Good luck!
I’m saying thank you first, then LMAO at your opening, OK
Cheers Azi, you simplify what can be an intimidating task.
Nick & Co
Cheers Azi, you simplify what can be an intimidating task.
Nick & Co
Wastei
Well-Known Member
The absolute simplest way is probably a water glass that you change out the water to every day, worked well when I didn't have anything else. If a cutting roots or not is mostly down to the health of the cutting and its genetics. I like water cloning since I can choose whatever medium or style of growing from that point onward and I don't have to any daily work with misting.** Cloning with Azi **
For anyone new at cloning or looking for a simple, effective, and SIP friendly approach I thought I'd detail my process.
I used to be horrible at rooting cuttings, and in fact successfully participated in the International Worse Cloner Of The Year competitions held each year around the world. I never did medal in them as I was always able to get a small percentage to root which kept the lights on, but man did I suck. And the few clones I did get to root took a long time and looked pretty sickly by the time they did.
I tried everything you could imagine including soil, coco, glasses of water, bubble mist cloner contraptions of three different types, DWC, domes, rooting hormones, you name it. Nothing worked very well for me which I attribute to my environment, but I kept at it. I even started a cloning thread recently (which you can read through here ) but for those of you that like to jump to the last chapter of the book I'll detail my process below.
My criteria was that I wanted something highly successful, simple, consistent and involved no judgement, no noise, no hardening off, no domes, no rooting hormone, no complicated builds, etc and this approach checks all of those boxes.
The Build
Find a container that won't hold water. A regular small nursery pot would work fine but I use a Solo cup with a small hole made with a soldering iron or small drill bit. If you're using cups you can cut a slit with scissors on the side of the cup at the very bottom corner. I make a corresponding hole at the top of the cup so I can easily see where the hole is. I use a clear Solo inside of an opaque one.
Congratulations, your build is finished.
The Medium
Fill the container with something coarse that breathes well; perlite, pumice, or coarse builder's sand.
The Process
I take cuttings from the ends of branches about 4-5"/10-12cm long, trimming away any branches below the top flush of leaves fairly close to the stem but leaving a little stub. The smaller the better as that's less wound for the plant to heal. If you do this step the day before you cut it while the cutting is still attached to the plant you'll get roots a day or two earlier. My theory on this is that the plant will send repair hormones to heal these cuts and these hormones are still present the next day when you actually cut the clone and that helps wth the rooting process. Plus, those wounds will have scabbed over and need less repair effort after the cutting is removed from the plant.
Make a hole in the medium slightly larger than the stem width with a chopstick or other tool, stick your cutting and firm the medium around the cut by pressing down and around. I have small plants and therefore small cuttings but I can fit 5-10 in a standard Solo cup. Doesn't matter at all if the leaves touch or overlap.
Now mist the leaves twice a day, I do roughly 12 hours apart. When I spray, I place the cups in a large storage container stood on end which contains any overspray. Then tilt the container on one corner and drain the excess water into another cup for use on your other plants. I use straight tap water, left in an open container for 24 hours to help off-gas any chlorine but really don't think that matters a bit.
I leave the cuttings off to the side, out of direct light and in fact I have a piece of cardboard on the side of the cuttings area to block any direct light. And I keep them in an environment with more than 12 hours of light since I don't want them trying to flower while they're rooting. I keep them in my veg room at 18/6.
I get roots in 7-10 days and usually let them stay in the cups for 3-4 weeks total before potting up but I have potted them at as little as 14 days. I just like a better developed rooting system before I do. I don't feed them or rewet the medium at all while still in the cups as drips from the twice daily misting keeps the medium moist enough. Taking more cuttings than I plan to plant allows me to select the best of the best from the group and there are always one or two that are appreciably better than the others.
This process is borrowed from the commercial "Rooted Cuttings Industry" where they root thousands of landscape plants in sand beds under intermittent mist and shade cloth to protect from direct sunlight.
Rooting cuttings is really hard until it clicks, but once you find a process that works for you it becomes easy. And this is the one that clicked for me. And, because the cuttings are rooted in the same environment as your veg space there is no hardening off required. They go directly into my organic soil SIP and don't miss a beat.
Good luck!
Cheers!
Its not really my bit of the gig but ai bought some pretty cheap cloning gel, really cheapest locally, my wife cuts ‘em and dunks them in potting soil with a light Cal-Mag solution.
Reckon she gets 75% to stick BUT like I always want to say 365 days a year here are sat at 28c and 75%
Its just so ideal at these young stages
One thing I’d say though, our seeds and medium (we use potting soil very briefly - generally all coco/hydro) they’re all acclimatised. All
Sat at background temperatures and humidities a while. Like we live in the tropics, stuff grows quick and grows big here. Its ideal for a lot of stages of growing weed. Can be a pain doing stupid stuff like a 1000w HPS in a 4x4 tent outdoors, sure!
But your soil/coco/seeds/nutes ? Are they close on the temps you want to clone or pop at? I knows guys throwing bags of ice in their water tanks here.
Its why I need to try again at my SIP grow. Res and soil temp gonna be my enemy.
Such fun!
Reckon she gets 75% to stick BUT like I always want to say 365 days a year here are sat at 28c and 75%
Its just so ideal at these young stages
One thing I’d say though, our seeds and medium (we use potting soil very briefly - generally all coco/hydro) they’re all acclimatised. All
Sat at background temperatures and humidities a while. Like we live in the tropics, stuff grows quick and grows big here. Its ideal for a lot of stages of growing weed. Can be a pain doing stupid stuff like a 1000w HPS in a 4x4 tent outdoors, sure!
But your soil/coco/seeds/nutes ? Are they close on the temps you want to clone or pop at? I knows guys throwing bags of ice in their water tanks here.
Its why I need to try again at my SIP grow. Res and soil temp gonna be my enemy.
Such fun!
- Thread starter
- #3,200
I didn't have good luck with the glass of water approach. Took me way too long to get roots and had too many failure to launch plants once they were transferred into soil. Too many didn't survive the up-pot.
But, as I said, you find a way that works for you and have at it.
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