SIP Club - Getting Hydro/Coco Results In A Soil Based Medium
- Thread starter Azimuth
- Start date
I need to see inside one of the SIP auto feeders , I think I know what its doing but want to confirm it to save design timeBetcha could though…
kahoona
Well-Known Member
as long as the reservoir is aerated then it shouldnt be a problem. use a solar powered air pump on your 50 gal res. black containers are needed to stave off algae. yes that pic of the auto feed is what im using. its got an adjustable float in the control bucket at aprox same height as the over flow holes and works very well. i ran bigger tubing so there wont be any plugging up. i ran a test on it all tonight and it works good. iv got 5 gallons each of the sensi bloom and grow a and b parts. i should be good for nutes for awhile. im going to use half strength as they are constantly feeding. i cant wait to try it out....clones are coming along. im going to start a couple godfather og seeds as well. so many seeds...so little space.
I looked online but there’s no good pictures. I’ll ask the real Nick Hardy if he can get some pictures some time. I have filament again now so may have a go myself.I need to see inside one of the SIP auto feeders , I think I know what its doing but want to confirm it to save design time
kahoona
Well-Known Member
a pic i swiped off the net. as long as your sip feed line is below your float valve it should work fine.
Im wondering if its as simple as this bell on bottom creates pressure in bell and up vertical tube stopping the very low pressure water supply from entering.
- Thread starter
- #2,628
I think it's just a simple float that opens and closes a valve to allow water flow or not. Kind of like the float on a sump pump, though those trip an electric switch that turns on a pump motor.
In this case it simply opens and close that valve based on the height of the float.
Im pretty sure its air pressure from full reservoir pushing into the bell at the bottom increasing the air pressure that in turn stops the low pressure water from entering SIP via pipe and bell no water travels up pipe to trigger a ball float ,so it makes me think its working from the air pressure
@StoneOtter , what do you think ?
There’s an Autopot smartvalve I found on Thingivwrse via Yeggi.
Message me the link please
- Thread starter
- #2,632
Oh, your talking about the valve system to the Earthboxes. I thought you were talking about @ReservoirDog 's design.Im pretty sure its air pressure from full reservoir pushing into the bell at the bottom increasing the air pressure that in turn stops the low pressure water from entering SIP via pipe and bell no water travels up pipe to trigger a ball float ,so it makes me think its working from the air pressure
@StoneOtter , what do you think ?
Carry on...
Yes I think there is 2 different conversation
Fenderbender
Well-Known Member
More Santa, new Light, new SIIIIIIIPS!
I feel this is way more proportional I had a huge SIP and a small light, this fixes that.
I feel this is way more proportional I had a huge SIP and a small light, this fixes that.
Yes I think there is 2 different conversation
This is more useful. A few pieces there to print.
That is sweeet! What's the light? Looks very cool with the cooling fins. Fixed driver though?More Santa, new Light, new SIIIIIIIPS!
I feel this is way more proportional I had a huge SIP and a small light, this fixes that.
Nick
Fenderbender
Well-Known Member
It's a Sanlight EVO 3, Austrian company, Yeah everything is inside the frame we'll see how that goes.
It just seemed fitting for the tent, I was attracted by it being several modules spaced wide as I thought uniform spread with lots of angels and sources.. and indeed it fills the tent from corner to corner with high ppfd numbers with ease.
It's 190watts and weighs in at 4,1kg I had to tighten the easy rolls a bit but it works great I can move it up or down with one hand.
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
I am ultra-stoked for you. I really like your basic room design, split into single plant rows on either side of room(?)(as far as I can tell) It seems to give you very good access to plants, while at the same time efficient spacial usage. Your work is so clean and choices look like they are evolutions of evolutions. I love the drain designs, I have never seen that before.
Your supplemental lighting strips look great too, have you worked with side-lighting long? I have worked with a couple iterations of side-lighting (I'm in 2, 5x5 tents), but there is little written of side-lighting, that I've found, yet I believe it holds great promise, especially when paired with a well-matched training/defol technique. Any experience you'd care to share on the topic of sidelighting, at your leisure, or if you know about other users, on this or other forums, of good sidelighting I could chase down, would be most appreciated. I don't like to just pile on resources atop more resources, merely hoping more = better, but my impression is that this extra lighting shows great promise. I would simply like to deploy it as intelligently as possible.
Best to you and yours, all kahoonas big and small!
PS, Yes, I agree fertigated SIPs can be just fine with lower nutes due to constant access and its constant (comparable) moisture gradient. Energetic/adaptive needs are substantively reduced in SIPs vs. traditional container gardening, and I think these contribute to reduced fert. requirements, while still sustaining an increased biomass production rate comparable to DWC, Flood/Drain (IMHO). This reduction in requirements is also useful to help prevent the potential for a mineral salts build-up that can cause a major toxicity in fertigated SIPs. It appears to be somewhat rare but I have some things designed in to my methods to help. Prevention methods I'm aware of, and use are 1), not overdoing nutes, as mentioned, 2), 'soil' conditioning. So, even though I'm often growing 'soilless' SIPs using peat/perlite or coco in my fertigated SIPs, I 'condition' my 'soil' with specific bacterial and fungi inoculants, kelp products, leonardite-based humates, amino acids, and some custom home-grown EWC. 3) Because the mineral salts build-up issue is more likely in the few inches above the planter 'floor', I can do a 'mini-flush' from below, via the reservoir, overfilling it, still from the bottom, so it rises up into the planter a couple inches and soaks out some of the buildup, but avoiding the damage that a traditional top-down flush causes. I also figured out a way to take samples for slurry tests from this region so as to test for excessive buildups. It's just something important to be aware of for fertigated SIPs, so I thought I'd briefly (?) share what I've figured out so far. Been SIPping most of my veg and weed for 3 years now, I have two 5x5's with 1kw led fixtures in each, and grow lots of outdoors stuff in-season, so I'm no professional or guru-type, just a tinkerer with limited resources and time to blah blabbety blah online.
A bag of grow swag in the post and a Mittel European/Bauhaus themed grow tent. What a time to be alive FB!
Hi everyone, so this is how I modified my SIP for Hulkberry. I think it will work fine now. I'm still thinking about what @ReservoirDog suggested to me, to split open the lid so that I could access the flower pot, but on the other hand, I was thinking of making hooks in the lid so that I would have a way to hold the branches.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?