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Lisa, this text right here tells me that you are an overwaterer, and that was why I was asking about humidity and such, because your plants are drooping just like an overwatered plant with damaged roots would droop. When you said above that your plants looked like they were lacking water and then watered based on that, I suspected that I was right. Without a lot of experience, just looking at the plant usually is not enough to tell a beginning gardener of weeds when it is time to water.I am a vegetable gardener so when I first saw them this morning, it look like they were lacking water. Aside from the cal/mag issue. So I’m hoping the water with the cal/mag added is enough to bring it back to where it needs to be. I’m really going to try a hands off approach next round. So I just want to try and get the best soul mix and then plant. Hands off.
Well, that certainly is true in veg as we're trying to build a proper root structure, but now that she is in flower with that plant it is unlikely to be building much more in the way of roots. Given that situation, should she not at this stage simply be giving the plant what it wants to get it through harvest and hopefully learn the lesson for the next round?First, these are not garden vegetables, they just don't grow the same and you can't read them the same. Please look up the lift the pot method of determining the water level in the container, and please take it as gospel that you need to let these weeds dry out all the way to the bottom between waterings. If you haven't already, please read my "how to water properly" articles linked in my signature lines, so you can hear about the wet/dry cycle and how to manage it. Trying hard to help..
So you think those roots can be repaired. Interesting. I thought that once you got past the stretch period in flower that you had mostly all of the roots you were going to get, and that any damage to the existing roots would not be so easily repaired since new root formation had basically ceased.Even now, by letting the lower roots repair themselves by forcing them to dry out between waterings, this growing situation can be improved. Failing to adjust for what is going on here is just going to cause further decline in the health of this plant, and the eventual yield. The plant can be saved, but something different needs to be done... status quo is not cutting it.
Repairing roots that are already there is different than trying to grow new roots. Yes, most of the roots have been formed already in veg and stretch, but those roots now are protecting themselves from the water with a special coating, so that they can get back to work once the flood waters recede. This is a survival mechanism of this plant, and as soon as those roots see oxygen, the process will reverse.So you think those roots can be repaired. Interesting. I thought that once you got past the stretch period in flower that you had mostly all of the roots you were going to get, and that any damage to the existing roots would not be so easily repaired since new root formation had basically ceased.
In attempting to implement this, do you let the pot dry completely so the bottom roots dry out, or is the minimal watering up top the better strategy to keep those top roots relatively healthy?
This will certainly be an interesting case study. Here's hoping you've righted the ship and can bring it home in style!That makes total sense. I will say this morning they look great. The leaves are no longer drooping and the color is even better.
I really appreciate everyone trying to help. It’s a bit frustrating doing everything u think is right only to come up against problem after problem. I hope I have a handle on it now.. I will however wait until plant is dry dry before I water again.
I’m hoping right along with you.This will certainly be an interesting case study. Here's hoping you've righted the ship and can bring it home in style!
That's more encouraging than the scenario I envisioned where they had essentially dried up or rotted away and could no longer be of value to the plant.Repairing roots that are already there is different than trying to grow new roots. Yes, most of the roots have been formed already in veg and stretch, but those roots now are protecting themselves from the water with a special coating, so that they can get back to work once the flood waters recede. This is a survival mechanism of this plant, and as soon as those roots see oxygen, the process will reverse.
This sounds like a great strategy to try to revive her.So as to keep metabolism high and to be able to continue feeding the plant, minimal watering should be done every 3 days to water only the top third of the container, where the spreader roots are at. After two or three "top waterings" the lower roots should be able to finally drain the water in the bottom and pull some oxygen down deep. Two or three rounds of this two stage watering should be able to revive the feeder roots at the bottom and get this grow back on track.
Hey TT,Hello, everyone
I’m new to this page and had a couple questions. This is my first time running Gaia green dry amendments and I’m kinda struggling. I did a soil mix and I’m currently in (1 gals)growing in 75% promix HP soil with 25% earth worm castings along with Gaia green 4-4-4 all purpose during veg and plan on using the 2-8-4 powder bloom during flower. My plants are experiencing lock out and haven’t grown since I transplanted them about 5 days ago because they where looking deficient in cal/mag and Nitrogen. I want to use some cal/mag but I’m unsure if it will hurt my plants more based on the nutrients I’m using?