Radogast's Hi-Brix Basement Grow - New Location - New Soil - New Experiences

Sweet looking plants you have going there Rad. Isn't it cool how uniformly vigorious they are in this soil? Even with problems my Carnival's going to excell.

It's so good to watch you grow again. :hugs: :Love:

Thanks Sue. Lately I've been watching you grow too :)


The Ladybugs like crawling over these lovely HiBrix plants

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Hey Rad! Looking great, I gotta get some wires too they look very handy for early training. :Love: :Namaste:


These are individual insulated wires from 12 and 14 guage house wiring left over from renovations. I like that one can casually bend them in various directions and they stay put without having to make complete loops.

When I first started using them, I twisted the wires through holes in the rim of 5-gal paint buckets. When I removed the wires, this left curly, twisty bits at one end. After awhile I discovered those twisty bits grab the soil very well, so I stopped anchoraging them to pots and now just jam them into soil.

A spool of 14 guage wire costs about $10-15 at a hardware store - often available in different colors :)

:circle-of-love:

I'm an incrementalist in LST. Daily poking and proding with fingers when they are little. Fiddling with wires in mid to late veg. Trimming off the lower growth, cloning, and sometimes supercropping as they head into flower. I like to pick off lower growth as the branches become established - but I usually forget until flower time. Since I have only one generation growing, I'll probably remember this time :rofl:

:Namaste:
 
Hey JimmyJ

Interesting lowering of blood pressure and increase of pulse 1/2 hour later.

I sure would not have guessed that - especially after SweetSue's response.


I admire your dedication to serve and protect future generations of blood pressure conscious smokers !

Thanks, it was an interesting experiment! :thumb:
 
Tuning the environment

With below zero temps outside, the basement has dropped to about 50F and the house heater is removing the humidity.


The temps and humidity under the T5 CFLs were remarkably consistent day and night.

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I added the small humidifier to the veg area

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Then I got to thinking, why am I not falling to 68 or 69 degrees at night? Answer: I had the lights on 24/7. I switched to the timer

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It's the little things that matter. lol!
 
Hey Rado, I've been browsing this grow journal and it's likely we have a few things in common. That you mentioned in your opening post that you live along the Mississippi River, and tonight mentioned outside temperatures that are below zero, I imagine that you and I are at least at a similar latitude, (about 42 degrees North).

I admire your RO system, but I have to ask. What specifically is it about the Mississippi River water (as it comes out of your tap) that has you believing that it is undesirable to use as a source to feed your plants, especially since you appear to be growing in a soil medium? My tap water comes from Lake Michigan, and my city publishes the chemical analysis of the drinking water once a year. While it isn't exactly what most people preach about optimum Ph, I have found it to work just fine for my purposes in my soil grow. Perhaps your city water supply isn't as consistently predictable as mine or perhaps you are using a well. I'm just curious what had you go to the expense of installing an RO system.

I too am growing in a basement in of a 100 year old home. Mine is a brick bungalow and I have the good fortune of having my basement divided into two sections. The area where I grow is semi-finished with built in cabinets along most of the exterior walls giving me some added dead-air space. Even so, since I drop the house down to from a daytime normal of 69 degrees to 64 degrees at night, starting at midnight. To counteract this drop-off, I have adjusted my lighting schedule (I'm using CFLs so they are similar heat output to yours) to deal with this by starting my plant's "day" so that the lights come on a two hours after the house thermostat has dropped back to the night time setting. By the time the grow lights turn off, the house is back on the day time heating schedule and the grow room is back up into the upper 60's.

What has resulted is a high of about 73 degrees, and a low of about 63 degrees during every 24 hour lighting cycle.

If your basement is only registering 50 degrees right now during this cold snap, but the low on your thermostat is showing 68 degrees since switching to the timer, you must have some serious insulation around your planting area. Then again, I'm not sure what your current light schedule is. If it is the traditional 18/6 for veg, you might begin to have a more extreme fall-off of the low temperature once you shift over to a flower lighting schedule.

Just something to think about!
 
Hey Rado, I've been browsing this grow journal and it's likely we have a few things in common. That you mentioned in your opening post that you live along the Mississippi River, and tonight mentioned outside temperatures that are below zero, I imagine that you and I are at least at a similar latitude, (about 42 degrees North).
Yep . you found my neighborhood :)

I admire your RO system, but I have to ask. What specifically is it about the Mississippi River water (as it comes out of your tap) that has you believing that it is undesirable to use as a source to feed your plants, especially since you appear to be growing in a soil medium? My tap water comes from Lake Michigan, and my city publishes the chemical analysis of the drinking water once a year. While it isn't exactly what most people preach about optimum Ph, I have found it to work just fine for my purposes in my soil grow. Perhaps your city water supply isn't as consistently predictable as mine or perhaps you are using a well. I'm just curious what had you go to the expense of installing an RO system.

Our family drinks water more than soda, milk etc.
The RO is for drinking water first, and plants second. :)

Doc Bud has put a lot of research into adapting Hi-Brix soil conditioning and farming techniques to indoor cannabis.
While not needed, reverse osmosis, along with standardized peat moss, worm castings, amendments and treatments help create a standardized growing environment where cannabis can flourish. But lights, temp, are important too :)

I too am growing in a basement in of a 100 year old home. Mine is a brick bungalow and I have the good fortune of having my basement divided into two sections. The area where I grow is semi-finished with built in cabinets along most of the exterior walls giving me some added dead-air space. Even so, since I drop the house down to from a daytime normal of 69 degrees to 64 degrees at night, starting at midnight. To counteract this drop-off, I have adjusted my lighting schedule (I'm using CFLs so they are similar heat output to yours) to deal with this by starting my plant's "day" so that the lights come on a two hours after the house thermostat has dropped back to the night time setting. By the time the grow lights turn off, the house is back on the day time heating schedule and the grow room is back up into the upper 60's.

What has resulted is a high of about 73 degrees, and a low of about 63 degrees during every 24 hour lighting cycle.

If your basement is only registering 50 degrees right now during this cold snap, but the low on your thermostat is showing 68 degrees since switching to the timer, you must have some serious insulation around your planting area. Then again, I'm not sure what your current light schedule is. If it is the traditional 18/6 for veg, you might begin to have a more extreme fall-off of the low temperature once you shift over to a flower lighting schedule.

Just something to think about!


I like stuff to think about :)


My basement doesn't have any heat except what leaks down from above, out through the furnace and in through the windows and walls. 58 was summer. Winter low so far is 50. Nighttime and daytime temps are mostly consistent day after day.

Rather than insulation, I went with a small room heater and a small room.

Heater (black fins) on the right

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Heater in the back (10 days ago)

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Heater still in the back (2 days ago)

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AK47 has some leaf spots from when my sprayer clogged.

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I need to get a small, fine sprayer. My 2 gallon sprayer normally mists well, but has feed problems when spraying only 2 TBSP :)


Is the Flairosol a recommended sprayer? I'd prefer not to buy propellant bottles (reduce, reuse, recycle.)
I use a flarisol for my brix, I need to pick up a second now that I know it works well. Super fine mist from it and you can get most of the fluid out. It starts acting up once you get down to a tablespoon of so in it. And so far it's held up for a couple of months.

Those little misters you can get for a couple of bucks only lasted me a couple of uses each. Schiggity mentioned a sprayer that is sold by a sponsor here with a tip that pivots. I think I'm going to pick up one of those next to try out as the reverse tip would be nice now that I can't pull out the pants in the back of my flower room to spray. I believe they are from 360 grow perhaps? I'll have to look later. Need to get ready for work and head out.

Peace

Sent from this funny device I carry around and still call a phone even though I hardly ever make calls with it.
 
Round 2: Preparing for 4 more seeds


In my original scenario of how this grow would proceed, I would have migrated the seedlings to larger pots and have hem in flower by now. That hasn't happened.

I'm going to move towards a perpetual grow, starting new plants every 8-10 weeks to replace girls coming out of flower every 8-10 weeks. My current girls are 10 weeks after planting and 7 weeks after planting. If I want to have more plants ready to follow these girls after they flower, I need to start them soon - no matter when they actually go into flower.


I scooped cooked Doc Bud soil into four 1/2 gallon pots, bottom soaked them in 1/4 transplant, and put them under the lights to warm up the soil and soil community. They should be ready for seeds in a few days.

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1/2 gallon pots with electric oil heater in the background.

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Soaking soil

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My humifier was not emitting enough mist, so I took the splash guard box off to allow the mist to bubble into open air.

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When the fan swings by, the mist makes a good trail along the plants :)

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I use a flarisol for my brix, I need to pick up a second now that I know it works well. Super fine mist from it and you can get most of the fluid out. It starts acting up once you get down to a tablespoon of so in it. And so far it's held up for a couple of months.

Those little misters you can get for a couple of bucks only lasted me a couple of uses each. Schiggity mentioned a sprayer that is sold by a sponsor here with a tip that pivots. I think I'm going to pick up one of those next to try out as the reverse tip would be nice now that I can't pull out the pants in the back of my flower room to spray. I believe they are from 360 grow perhaps? I'll have to look later. Need to get ready for work and head out.

Peace

Sent from this funny device I carry around and still call a phone even though I hardly ever make calls with it.

Thanks a lot.

I found a link where ShiggetyFlip talks about the 360 sprayer
Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I also see where growitbest.com has a minimum order of $25. I don't know if I will put together a $25 order.
360 Spray Bottle 16 oz (120/Cs)
 
Glad to see you getting perpetual phase 2 started. Same seeds? New?

Also checking out your other herbs. Cilantro and Lemon Balm look like they're doing well but your aloe looks like it could use some Destress. Sorry, maybe that's a sore subject, but I couldn't resist.

Happy Growing! :green_heart:
 
Glad to see you getting perpetual phase 2 started. Same seeds? New?

Also checking out your other herbs. Cilantro and Lemon Balm look like they're doing well but your aloe looks like it could use some Destress. Sorry, maybe that's a sore subject, but I couldn't resist.

Happy Growing! :green_heart:


4 new seeds : At least 3 feminized. I'll let you know later this week.

The most exciting seed is a pure Sativa: Lily from Ace Seeds (Spain)

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I've had that aloe plant for over 20 years. Las year, it was potted in regular soil (by someone else) and suffered.
Recently, I decided to repot it in a cacti/succulent mix and bring it down in to the basement room for intensive care.
I propped it up against a stake and found it the next morning on it's side with the roots broken off.

About 2 weeks ago, I shoved the aloe deep into the soil to see if it will grow new roots - but I suspect it is done for.

Sweetsue has one of it's pups that is doing well, and I have a pair of aloe I am raising from seed, so I can accept it's passing if this aloe decides it is finished.


Aloe Vera Seedlings - 1 month ago

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Aloe Vera seedlings - 21 months ago

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Radogast's Non-420 Garden Creation Thread
 
Yep . you found my neighborhood :)

My basement doesn't have any heat except what leaks down from above, out through the furnace and in through the windows and walls. 58 was summer. Winter low so far is 50. Nighttime and daytime temps are mostly consistent day after day.

Rather than insulation, I went with a small room heater and a small room.

Heater in the back (10 days ago)

20161206_094509-1.jpg

OOOF! That's gotta cost some bucks to run! I have one of those and even on the lowest setting it draws 600 watts. At the moment I'm living with the temp changes. My grow room isn't actually "heated" but the radiator feed lines to upstairs radiators run across the ceiling of the basement so I get some help from there. Growing under CFL doesn't generate much heat...LED's are similar too. :Namaste:
 
OOOF! That's gotta cost some bucks to run! I have one of those and even on the lowest setting it draws 600 watts. At the moment I'm living with the temp changes. My grow room isn't actually "heated" but the radiator feed lines to upstairs radiators run across the ceiling of the basement so I get some help from there. Growing under CFL doesn't generate much heat...LED's are similar too. :Namaste:

600-1200W is a bit of a draw, but other things that use 1200W include: toaster, blowdryer, clothes dryer, electric mower, room air conditioner, coffee maker.

It's not so much the wattage as wattage combined with how many hours per day. The heater is off more than it is on.

- - -

I have ducts in the ceiling, but they are all cold air return. I hesitate to tap into the home heating ducts anyway because I'd like to be a little bit stealthy with aromas.


I've been trying to think of how I could route some of the heat from the HPS hood in the flower area (once it's active) and still seal in the flower room aromas.

Maybe I should put in a thin metal wall instead of wood.
 
How about some HRV diy unit? It can help you with recycling heat, but there might be some condensation on the core. Few ideas on YT. Just a thought.
 
How about an in-line carbon filter to scrub the air on the intake side of your HPS hood?

A carbon filter is the main odor control solution. I am hoping to avoid the expense of a new in-line unit.


How about some HRV diy unit? It can help you with recycling heat, but there might be some condensation on the core. Few ideas on YT. Just a thought.

I looked up HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) and you are on the right track. An HRV places fresh air alongside used air separated by a highly thermoconductive (High U-value) surface. The goal being to transfer most of the heat between the air flows before replacing the air.

My goal is to do half of that; transfer heat through a highly thermoconductive surface without exchanging the air. Common materials that are highly thermoconductive are: aluminium, brass, copper, diamond, gold, nickel, platinum, silver, and various steels. The best conductor in that list, by far, is diamond, but a thin sheet of any of those materials will be good ( and diamond would also allow light leaks :) Copper sheeting is the second best choice, but any of them are good as long as there is airflow along both sides of the sheet.

We will have regular airflow along both sides of the wall seperating flower from veg (air circulation fans) so the only thing I have to do to transfer a bunch of heat is to create a "window" of thin, opaque sheet metal between the veg and flower areas.



Thaks for the inspiration!
 
Glad I could be of help. I'm thinking about that too, because I really want to get the humidity out of my flower tent. Hard to do it without floor :) but that will get fixed soon I hope. Good luck always a pleasure to see someone build something unique! :Love: :Namaste:
 
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