Purple Kush, Regular/Photo - DynoMyco We Want You - Side-By-Side Comparative Grow

Emilya said:
In examining rootballs after the grow I notice that about half way down in the container there is a mass of roots and as compared to other regions in the container, I would estimate that 60% of the roots are in that middle third. So this is where I put my underground caches of both nutrient and dynomyco. Imagine then what the conditions are in that middle third after you have watered to runoff. It will be a "saturation" of soil and water, a sludge... and for microbes, a vast liquid paradise that they are free to roam around in at will. In that environment, don't think of my layer as a fixed object because it is going to merge into the saturation, along with the fact that neither Fungi nor microbes stay in one place. So, if a root happens to come by, they will find it.

Now that I know to do it, I do put Dynomyco in the divot for that helpful push too... but this time I was running low on the product and I didn't have enough to go around. That situation was resolved yesterday.
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Between all the heavy breathing, and stoner peanut gallery, there's some real gems in here about horizon soil systems.
 
Emilya said:
Our first purple kush has reached the surface. I expect a few more by the end of the day.
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Always such a great site to see some healthy plants popping out. I'd like to be able to say all mine are looking like that. :confused: :laugh:

Great details on the process Em.
 
Hi @Emilya - so I have the same issue you do. I have fungus gnats in the soil I just took for up potting the 24 Karat from the spent soil pile. They’re easy, consider them gone. But wanted to let you know it seems pretty easy - bake the soil as you do correct? That would have killed any eggs or live gnats, correct? I should’ve. I got lazy. Slap me for not gardening like a boss.
 
Jon said:
Hi @Emilya - so I have the same issue you do. I have fungus gnats in the soil I just took for up potting the 24 Karat from the spent soil pile. They’re easy, consider them gone. But wanted to let you know it seems pretty easy - bake the soil as you do correct? That would have killed any eggs or live gnats, correct? I should’ve. I got lazy. Slap me for not gardening like a boss.
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me too... apparently 250 degrees for 20 minutes isn't quite enough for damp soil just from a hardware store parking lot, in the rain. I will do better next time. I have told the bugs around here that this gardener is not afraid of using real chemicals to get rid of them, dead, this early in the grow. By the time we get to bloom all those chemicals in the soil and in the plant are gone, and from then on the natural preventatives seem to work well. The trick is to kill them all, deader than dead, early on, whether in the fiery furnace or thru no nonsense pesticides. To ignore them or just play at going after them, only results in problematic grows and mediocre yields.
 
The amount of soil I use, I couldn't even fathom the idea of baking my soil. There are far easier methods to eradicate fungus gnats. At least in my book. Are they a nuisance? Absolutely. But I have never let them get to the point of being an infestation. I let biology do the main work (rove beetles are excellent predators btw). What they can't devour, I take out with SNS209 and a combo of mosquito bits. I just need to be consistent with my applications. I topdress with mosquito bits (slow release) and also soak it for drenches. Yellow traps. Another approach is pyrethrin vapors as well. Baking the soil sounds like an easy enough plan... until after you've baked it and get fungus gnats land in your soil and lay more eggs.
 
Emilya said:
Today, most of the seeds were showing significant activity and it is time to start. Hopefully by the end of veg we will have representatives of enough females of each type to make a decent flowering run, with enough in the myco and no myco groups that we can see if there is a difference. We have two predicted to be male seeds, and one was given @DYNOMYCO and one was not. The remaining 8 seeds were placed randomly into cups of soil prepared for them, half with DynoMyco and half not. The half getting the Dynomyco all got a pretty pink plant tag with DM written on each side. In week 4 or 5 we should be able to start identifying our females and executing all but maybe one of the males that will be saved for stud services at a later date.

The cups were all constructed identically following the following process. Only fresh never used soil has been used. The cups are not totally identical, being of at least 3 brands that have been used and reused over the years, but I don't think this will affect the experiment as they were randomly used.

Here are the two male containers, one with Dynomyco and one without:
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New Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil was placed in the bottom half, shaken down but not compressed. 1 tsp of @GeoFlora Nutrients VEG was put in, and the 5 Dynomyco plants got 1 tsp of that product. Then Fox Farm Happy Frog was put in up to 1/2 inch from the top. The cups were all then watered to runoff. A 1/2 inch deep divot was created in the middle of each cup and the seeds were carefully placed in there and gently covered up. Those areas will be sprayed enthusiastically until the seeds pop up.

The predicted males are in blue cups, the predicted females are in red. Later we will put blue tags in the male containers as we uppot to 1 gallon containers in a couple of weeks. For now, I have separated the two groups of 5 into their own drip trays.
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:cool::cool::cool:
 
I may have killed another batch of seeds. I think I sucked them dry when I put the layer of super dry FFHF on top of the seed. If I still see no more than 1 plant up in a couple of more days, I am going to repeat the whole thing with a fresh set of seeds, and plenty of Dynomyco to even put in the divot. I will keep you posted... the experiments will go on.
 
Emilya said:
I may have killed another batch of seeds. I think I sucked them dry when I put the layer of super dry FFHF on top of the seed. If I still see no more than 1 plant up in a couple of more days, I am going to repeat the whole thing with a fresh set of seeds, and plenty of Dynomyco to even put in the divot. I will keep you posted... the experiments will go on.
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Oh yeah, have I mentioned I’m not doing dry on top anymore for exactly that reason? I also fin it lessens the friction to remove the seed coat. Now I’m on most but not wet. Lol
 
Emilya said:
I may have killed another batch of seeds. I think I sucked them dry when I put the layer of super dry FFHF on top of the seed. If I still see no more than 1 plant up in a couple of more days, I am going to repeat the whole thing with a fresh set of seeds, and plenty of Dynomyco to even put in the divot. I will keep you posted... the experiments will go on.
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That blows! I've had crappy germination AND soil breaches this season. Really frustrating. But the few that I have had luck with, the ones with Dynomyco have consistently come up better. Good luck with the new seeds.
 
Jon said:
Question: did you start with seeds straight in the soil vs popping them first to show how DYNOMYCO even assists there?
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Not sure if there's a real difference here, but I did direct sow with mine, I suppose it wouldn't matter how you put it in, as long as that first tap root is in contact with the myc, I.E if you put DM in the whole before putting the seeds with the tail in there!
Emilya said:
I just put them in a cup of water and then into the soil. They only sent a small sample size of Dynomyco and thinking that I was getting more for the test I allowed myself to almost run out of the stuff, so no, I just used some of it in the middle of each of the 5 cups. I have the large 750 mg package is on its way and when it arrives I can and will be a lot more generous with its use, not just on the test plants but also for all of my transplants about to happen. I use a lot of DynoMyco.
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I'm grateful they sent me 3.5 OZ, but yeah I also expected just a little more (No biggie, I ordered more!), or maybe we just use too much of the stuff!
el gringuito said:
Hi @Emilya !
May I please crash your party?? Haha.

I am thrilled to see this!
I am trying to imitate your technique as best as I can (and it is helping a lot!).
Only, I am overseas (Colombia), and shipping is very expensive, and slow.
I ordered some DynoMyco (and the GeoFlora), and I expect to see it in maybe another couple of months ("air mail" to Colombia, haha).

May I please ask you, did you said that you put a small layer (teaspoon?) of DynoMyco a third of the way down in the cup?
Is your strategy that the roots will pass through it, and get on the roots that way?
And is that better than putting a teaspoon in the backfill of the divot at the time you plant the sprouted seedling-with-tail?
Or would you do both some DynoMyco in the backfill of the hole, and a layer?

Also, if you have to put it directly on the roots at the time of up-potting, then do you secretly suspect that the layer of DynoMyco retains its viability as the roots grow down and pass through it?
Your reputation for solid rootballs is well known, I was just wondering what your general strategy is, with putting a layer.
Thank you!
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So I feel like you can layer it, or you can put the DYNOMYCO inside the soil and mix it in as well! I did that with one of my cups and didn't with the other, and it seems the one that I shook the DM into has a better root ball than just the one with the DM in the hole.
 
This is an edited post... I put the wrong update in here at first.

The seeds are not coming up. I have one test plant up, sex unknown. I am going to plant the rest of my Purple Kush seeds, continuing the experiments, and then turning this into a breeding project too, so that I don't loose this valuable and now hard to get variety.

I will get the new seeds into water yet this evening.
 
Darade said:
and it seems the one that I shook the DM into has a better root ball than just the one with the DM in the hole.
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This is suddenly making a lot of sense to me... thank you for this insight! Why do we start in solo cups? So that we can constrict the root space. We start in this tiny container with the goal of solidly filling that container with roots. The roots aren't going to be just in the middle third like they tend to be in larger containers, they are going to be jam packed in that cup as tightly as they can get, and probably tighter than ever again as we continually uppot throughout the grow. Looking at the cup in that way, it seems logical that we need to get the myco distributed as widely as possible, and not just in a layer somewhere in the middle of the cup, so that all of the roots have this advantage. Thank you... your experiment appears to have proven something very important. I will be mixing the myco in the starter cup from now on.
 
Emilya said:
This is suddenly making a lot of sense to me... thank you for this insight! Why do we start in solo cups? So that we can constrict the root space. We start in this tiny container with the goal of solidly filling that container with roots. The roots aren't going to be just in the middle third like they tend to be in larger containers, they are going to be jam packed in that cup as tightly as they can get, and probably tighter than ever again as we continually uppot throughout the grow. Looking at the cup in that way, it seems logical that we need to get the myco distributed as widely as possible, and not just in a layer somewhere in the middle of the cup, so that all of the roots have this advantage. Thank you... your experiment appears to have proven something very important. I will be mixing the myco in the starter cup from now on.
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Wow! I didn’t even think about the reason it took off the way it did, this actually does make perfect sense. I kinda just did it because usually when you inoculate mycorrhizae you usually just mix in with all of the soil. (Like how happy frog already has small amounts in it)

And I’m sorry to hear about the issues with the babies, I’m sending all the seed popping vibes your way!!
 
Sorry for the delay, but I am having a crisis. I have lost my remaining Purple Kush seeds. I don't know where I put them! It must have been a good hiding spot, because I have been looking for 2 days and haven't located them.

So I have one lonely unsexed Purple Kush up. Fantastic. The experiment must go on however, so tonight I am going through another set of seeds, trying to identify males and females by the shape of their craters, and I am going to get these put in water yet this evening. Please forgive me for the delay, but we will get this thing back on track quickly. I will announce soon just which variety I have chosen.
 
I'm gonna be fully honest, the reason one of my Auto Tangies didn't pop was that I think I missed the cup when sowing! (X'D) Which also happened to be last seeds on that strain :/ (moral of the story: we make mistakes, and I really hope those seeds pop up again somewhere, unlike my seed which definitely got vacuumed!)

Take your time Em, best be fully prepared for everything to come, both physically, AND mentally! Don't overload yourself!
:Namaste:

Best Regards,
Darade.
 
I have picked out Dutch Passion OG. Inspection of the seeds predicts mostly female out of the seeds I have picked out. I have several hundred of these seeds, so I went through and picked out what first looked to be the darkest and healthiest for a sample set of 12 of them. They are now in water to see how they react. I will set them in the warmest area in my house, my back door mudroom, and the 90 degree heat out there should bring some life to these old seeds that have been sitting in my fridge in a dark jar for the better part of a decade.

The Purple Kush... I will get back to that one of these days because I know I am going to run into those seeds again, especially now that I no longer have a critical need to find them. If the PK ends up being female, it will be a nice treat in about 4 months.
 
Twelve out of twelve of the DPOG seeds have sunk. They all look like they are viable and are starting to crack and swell. The new round has begun.
 
She does
 
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